DROPS design: Pattern no fa-357
Yarn group A
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BERET:
Size: S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 623, rose mist
and use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 200, gray
NOTE: If the hat is worked with one color 100 g Fabel are used.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

SCARF:
Measurements: Width: approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' Length: approx. 150 cm / 59''
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 623, rose mist
and use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 200, gray
NOTE: If the scarf is worked with one color 150 g Fabel are used.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

WRIST WARMERS:
Size: S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 16-17 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4'' Length (includes domino square): 17-18 cm / 6 3/4-7''
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 623, rose mist
and use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 200, gray
NOTE: If the wrist warmers is worked with one color 50 g Fabel are used.

DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
Always pick up sts with gray, then work 1 row from WS with gray. Then work * 2 rows with rose mist, 2 rows with gray *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN (applies to scarf):
See illustration A.1.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in one st.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog.

HALF DOMINO SQUARE (hat):
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K rest of row (= 2 sts dec).
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 sts tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K rest of row.
Row 3: K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K rest of row.
Row 4: Work the first 2 sts K tog, (= 1 st dec), K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K until 2 sts remain, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec).
Repeat 1st- 4th row, i.e. so that 1 st is dec on each side of marker on every row and dec 1 st at beg and end of every 4th row until 1 st remain, cut the yarn and pull through the last st.

DOMINO SQUARE (wrist warmer):
Insert a marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remain before st with marker, 1 YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO, K the rest of row.
Row 3: K all sts. NOTE: K YOs twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row until 13 sts have been inc in total on each side of mid st = 29 sts in total on needle. Adjust so that last row is worked from WS (with rose mist).
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BERET:
First work a circle with half domino squares. Then pick up st around edge on the 7 half domino squares before continuing in the round with an edge in garter st.

Cast on 65-73 sts with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work STRIPES and HALF DOMINO SQUARE (hat) - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When entire half domino square has been worked vertically, continue as follows: Beg from RS with gray and pick up 1 st in every st along the cast-on edge down to st with marker on previous half domino square worked = 32-36 sts, then cast on 33-37 new sts. Then work half domino square the same way as on first half domino square.
Continue like this by picking up sts and working half domino squares in the round until 7 half domino squares have been worked in total. NOTE: When working the last half domino square, pick up sts along cast-on edge on previous half domino square worked, then pick up sts along cast-on edge on the first half domino square.

Now pick up sts around the edge of hat as follows:
Beg from RS with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and pick up 28-32 sts along the edge of each half domino square = 196-224 sts.
Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. When 2 ridges with gray have been worked, continue in the round with stripes and garter st as before and on next round dec as follows: * K 26-30 sts, K the next 2 sts tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 189-217 sts.
Dec like this every other ridge a total of 8-8 times and then every ridge 3-6 times in total = 119-126 sts. NOTE: On every dec work 1 st less between every dec on every round with dec. Continue in garter st and stripes until piece measures 12-13 cm / 4 3/4"-5'' from marker. Now work 4 ridges with gray. Bind off.
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SCARF:
Worked back and forth on needle.

PART 1:
Cast on 1 st on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with gray. Work in GARTER ST and STRIPES - see explanation above. Inc 1 st at the end of every row from RS – READ INCREASE TIP, inc like this 17 times in total = 18 sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS while dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP = 17 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

PART 2:
Pick up 17 sts along the ridges in the side on part 1 - A.1 = approx. 1 st in every ridge. Work in garter st and stripes as before and at beg of every row from RS inc 1 st. Inc like this 17 times in total = 34 sts. Then dec 1 st at beg of every row from RS. Dec like this 17 times in total = 17 sts. Work last row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

PART 3:
Pick up 1 st in every ridge from the side on part 2 (= 34 sts), slip sts from stitch holder on part 1 back on needle and work these sts = 51 sts. Work in garter st and stripes as before. At beg of every row from WS dec 1 st. Dec like this 34 times in total = 17 sts. Work last row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

PART 4:
Slip sts from stitch holder on part 2 back on left needle and work them, pick up 1 st in every ridge from part 3 = 51 sts. Work in garter st and stripes as before. At beg of every row from RS dec 1 st. Dec like this 34 times in total = 17 sts. Work last row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

Repeat 3rd and 4th part upwards until scarf measures approx. 134 cm / 52 3/4'' along the longest of the sides. Next to last part = part 5. Work as part 3 but keep sts on needle after dec = 17 sts. Continue with garter st and stripes as before. At beg and end of every row from RS dec 1 st. Dec as follows 8 times in total, pull yarn through last st. Cut the yarn.

LAST PART (PART 6):
Slip sts from stitch holder back on left needle and work them, pick up 1 st in every ridge from previous part = 51 sts. Work in garter st and stripes as before. At end of every row dec 1 st. Dec as follows 25 times in total, pull yarn through last st.
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WRIST WARMERS:
Cast on 3 sts with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5.
Work STRIPES and DOMINO SQUARE (wrist warmer) - see explanation above.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When entire domino square has been worked, insert a marker in last st worked (= from WS). Cut the yarn. Slip all sts on a stitch holder (or an extra circular needle).

Cast on 34-36 sts with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 1 row from WS. Then work back and forth in stripes and garter st as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) and K next st tog with st with marker on domino square + next st on domino square (= 2 sts from domino square)
Row 2 (WS): Turn and work back.
Row 3: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) and K next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 4: Turn and work back.
Row 5: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog (= 1 st dec) and K next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 6: Turn and K back.
Row 7: Work all sts.
Row 8: Turn and work back.
Row 9: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) and K the last st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 10: Turn and K back.
Repeat from 3rd-10th row 1 more time (= 18 rows in total). There are now 27-29 sts on needle.
Now work as follows:
Row 19: Work until 1 st remains on needle, K this st
tog with next st on domino square (= mid st at the top of domino square).
Row 20: Turn and work back.
Then work as follows:
Row 1: K until 1 st remains on needle, 1 YO, K the next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 2: Turn and K back. K YO twisted to avoid holes.
Rows 3-6: Work as 1st and 2nd row.
Row 7: K all sts.
Row 8: Turn and K back.
Row 9: K until 1 st remains on needle, 1 YO, K the next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 10: Turn and K back. K YO twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat 3rd-10th row 1 more time (= 18 rows in total).
When all sts on domino square have been worked tog with ridges and there are 34-36 sts on needle. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
Continue back and forth with stripes and garter st until piece measures 8-9 cm / 3"-3½" - adjust to finish with a stripe in rose mist. Bind off.
Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.
Sew bind-off edge and cast-on edge tog by sewing one and one st neatly tog with gray. Fasten off.
Knit another wrist warmer the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 10.10.2016
Correction: HALF DOMINO SQUARE (hat):... Repeat 1st- 4th row, i.e. so that 1 st is dec on each side of marker on every row and dec 1 st at beg and end of every 4th row until 1 st remain, cut the thread and pull through the last st.
Updated online: 29.07.2019
Correction - SCARF, PART 6: At end of every row dec 1 st. Dec as follows 25 times in total, pull yarn through last st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
symbols = pick up sts
symbols = work sts from stitch holder back on needle
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-48) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Judi wrote:

Hi. I'm making the Tara beret & I need a clarification. The instructions for the 'Half Domino Square' specify that rows 1 & 3 are the wrong side & 2 $ 4 the right side. However, the stripes are showing on the odd rows, not the even rows. I'm working on my 1st domino square right now. This will matter when I need to pick up stitches for the next Half Domino Square because it says to begin from the right side (& I'm not sure if I should begin on the true right side)

21.12.2021 - 01:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Judi, colour change should always be from right side - read STRIPES, ie when working half domino square (hat), cast on/pick up the stitches with grey, work the first row from WS with grey, then change colour and work alternately 2 rows with rose, 2 rows with grey, starting from RS. Happy knitting!

21.12.2021 kl. 07:25

country flag Judi wrote:

Hello! When knitting the last row of the 1st section of the scarf, is the decrease at the beginning or the end of the row?

22.11.2021 - 03:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Judy, Decrease at the end of the row. Happy knitting!

22.11.2021 kl. 07:22

country flag Celine Francoeur wrote:

Bonjour ma question concerne le bonnet merci

15.11.2021 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Francoeur et merci! Lorsque vous tricotez les 4 premiers rangs du demi-domino (bonnet), vous tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 maille avant la maille centrale et diminuez 2 mailles au milieu du domino = vous diminuez 1 maille de chaque côté de la maille centrale = celle avec le marqueur. Vous diminuez en plus 1 m au début + 1 m à la fin du rang tous les 4 rangs (= tous les 2 rangs sur l'endroit). Est-ce que ceci peut vous aider?

16.11.2021 kl. 08:24

country flag Celine Francoeur wrote:

Bonjour confusion au niveau des instructions pour les diminutions: 1 à 4 indiqué rendu au marqueur glisser une maille tric 2 ensembles....dans les instructions après le rang 4 il faut diminuer 1 m de chaque côté du marqueur. Merci de clarifier

14.11.2021 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Francoeur, quelle modèle tricotez-vous? Le bonnet? L'écharpe ou bien les mitaines? Où en êtes vous précisément? Merci pour toutes ces infos qui pourront nous aider à vous répondre.

15.11.2021 kl. 08:29

country flag Martine wrote:

J'ai tricoté 6 triangles pour le béret en suivant les explications, il me semble que le 7 ème serait en trop puisque posé bien à plat le cercle est complet, est-ce bien nécessaire ce 7 ème triangle ?

06.01.2021 - 23:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, le cercle doit se composer de 7 dominos triangles au total - vérifiez bien votre tension, cela peut en être la cause - en cas de doute, montrez votre ouvrage à votre magasin, ce sera plus facile pour eux de vous aider (n'hésitez pas à leur envoyer une photo par mail si besoin). Bon tricot!

07.01.2021 kl. 10:16

country flag Maryvonne Kottelat wrote:

Bonjour, je ne trouve pas la version française du béret, pouvez-vous m'indiquer où elle se trouve svpl ? Merci d'avance et meilleures salutations

19.12.2020 - 18:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Maryvonne! La version francaise est ICI. Bon tricot!

20.12.2020 kl. 22:49

country flag Nicole Pelletier wrote:

Bonjour, Pour le béret vous dites de mettre un marqueur dans la maille centrale. Mais vous montez combien de mailles au départ ? Je ne comprends pas comment vous commencez les demi-dominos pour le bonnet. Cordialement Nicole

04.12.2020 - 19:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pelletier, les dominos se tricotent sur 65-73 m chacun - cf "BÉRET". La maille centrale de chaque domino est au milieu du haut du bonnet. Et la bordure sera tricotée à partir des mailles relevées le long de chaque domino (de haut en bas). Bon tricot!

07.12.2020 kl. 07:14

country flag Tanja wrote:

Bedankt, nu snap ik het! Heel mooi patroon, trouwens, top!

28.02.2020 - 20:40

country flag Tanja wrote:

Hoi, ik heb een vraag over de baret, als de halve dominovierkanten al klaar zijn. Wat wordt precies bedoeld met " brei na elke mindering 1 st minder tussen de minderingen elke nld dat u mindert"? Ik snap die hele zin niet. Groetjes en bedankt, Tanja

27.02.2020 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tanja,

Er zitten steeds een aantal steken tussen de minderingen (je begint met 26-30 tussen de minderingen) en na elke keer dat je een mindernaald hebt gemaakt is dit 1 steek minder. Dus als als je de volgende keer mindert, brei je 25-29 steken en brei je de volgende 2 st. recht samen, enzovoort.

28.02.2020 kl. 19:17

country flag Anja Lanzrath wrote:

Vielen Dank 😊

29.07.2019 - 17:00

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