DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Accessories
  4. Hats
  5. Berets
  6. DROPS
  7. 171
  8. 48

Tara

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS beret and wrist warmers with domino squares and scarf worked diagonally with stripes in ”Fabel”.

DROPS 171-48
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-357
Yarn group A
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BERET:
Size: S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 623, rose mist
and use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 200, gray
NOTE: If the hat is worked with one color 100 g Fabel are used.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

SCARF:
Measurements: Width: approx. 22 cm / 8¾" Length: approx. 150 cm / 59"
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 623, rose mist
and use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 200, gray
NOTE: If the scarf is worked with one color 150 g Fabel are used.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

WRIST WARMERS:
Size: S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 16-17 cm / 6¼"-6¾" Length (includes domino square): 17-18 cm / 6 3/4-7"
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 623, rose mist
and use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 200, gray
NOTE: If the wrist warmers is worked with one color 50 g Fabel are used.

DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Accessories Hats Scarves Wrist Warmers Beretsdiagonal-knit domino garter stitch stripes
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (41)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
Always pick up sts with gray, then work 1 row from WS with gray. Then work * 2 rows with rose mist, 2 rows with gray *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN (applies to scarf):
See illustration A.1.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in one st.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog.

HALF DOMINO SQUARE (hat):
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K rest of row (= 2 sts dec).
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 sts tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K rest of row.
Row 3: K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K rest of row.
Row 4: Work the first 2 sts K tog, (= 1 st dec), K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K until 2 sts remain, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec).
Repeat 1st- 4th row, i.e. so that 1 st is dec on each side of marker on every row and dec 1 st at beg and end of every 4th row until 1 st remain, cut the yarn and pull through the last st.

DOMINO SQUARE (wrist warmer):
Insert a marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remain before st with marker, 1 YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO, K the rest of row.
Row 3: K all sts. NOTE: K YOs twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row until 13 sts have been inc in total on each side of mid st = 29 sts in total on needle. Adjust so that last row is worked from WS (with rose mist).
----------------------------------------------------------

BERET:
First work a circle with half domino squares. Then pick up st around edge on the 7 half domino squares before continuing in the round with an edge in garter st.

Cast on 65-73 sts with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work STRIPES and HALF DOMINO SQUARE (hat) - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When entire half domino square has been worked vertically, continue as follows: Beg from RS with gray and pick up 1 st in every st along the cast-on edge down to st with marker on previous half domino square worked = 32-36 sts, then cast on 33-37 new sts. Then work half domino square the same way as on first half domino square.
Continue like this by picking up sts and working half domino squares in the round until 7 half domino squares have been worked in total. NOTE: When working the last half domino square, pick up sts along cast-on edge on previous half domino square worked, then pick up sts along cast-on edge on the first half domino square.

Now pick up sts around the edge of hat as follows:
Beg from RS with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and pick up 28-32 sts along the edge of each half domino square = 196-224 sts.
Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. When 2 ridges with gray have been worked, continue in the round with stripes and garter st as before and on next round dec as follows: * K 26-30 sts, K the next 2 sts tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 189-217 sts.
Dec like this every other ridge a total of 8-8 times and then every ridge 3-6 times in total = 119-126 sts. NOTE: On every dec work 1 st less between every dec on every round with dec. Continue in garter st and stripes until piece measures 12-13 cm / 4¾"-5" from marker. Now work 4 ridges with gray. Bind off.
----------------------------------------------------------

SCARF:
Worked back and forth on needle.

PART 1:
Cast on 1 st on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with gray. Work in GARTER ST and STRIPES - see explanation above. Inc 1 st at the end of every row from RS – READ INCREASE TIP, inc like this 17 times in total = 18 sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS while dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP = 17 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

PART 2:
Pick up 17 sts along the ridges in the side on part 1 - A.1 = approx. 1 st in every ridge. Work in garter st and stripes as before and at beg of every row from RS inc 1 st. Inc like this 17 times in total = 34 sts. Then dec 1 st at beg of every row from RS. Dec like this 17 times in total = 17 sts. Work last row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

PART 3:
Pick up 1 st in every ridge from the side on part 2 (= 34 sts), slip sts from stitch holder on part 1 back on needle and work these sts = 51 sts. Work in garter st and stripes as before. At beg of every row from WS dec 1 st. Dec like this 34 times in total = 17 sts. Work last row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

PART 4:
Slip sts from stitch holder on part 2 back on left needle and work them, pick up 1 st in every ridge from part 3 = 51 sts. Work in garter st and stripes as before. At beg of every row from RS dec 1 st. Dec like this 34 times in total = 17 sts. Work last row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

Repeat 3rd and 4th part upwards until scarf measures approx. 134 cm / 52¾" along the longest of the sides. Next to last part = part 5. Work as part 3 but keep sts on needle after dec = 17 sts. Continue with garter st and stripes as before. At beg and end of every row from RS dec 1 st. Dec as follows 8 times in total, pull yarn through last st. Cut the yarn.

LAST PART (PART 6):
Slip sts from stitch holder back on left needle and work them, pick up 1 st in every ridge from previous part = 51 sts. Work in garter st and stripes as before. At end of every row dec 1 st. Dec as follows 25 times in total, pull yarn through last st.
----------------------------------------------------------

WRIST WARMERS:
Cast on 3 sts with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5.
Work STRIPES and DOMINO SQUARE (wrist warmer) - see explanation above.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When entire domino square has been worked, insert a marker in last st worked (= from WS). Cut the yarn. Slip all sts on a stitch holder (or an extra circular needle).

Cast on 34-36 sts with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 1 row from WS. Then work back and forth in stripes and garter st as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) and K next st tog with st with marker on domino square + next st on domino square (= 2 sts from domino square)
Row 2 (WS): Turn and work back.
Row 3: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) and K next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 4: Turn and work back.
Row 5: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog (= 1 st dec) and K next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 6: Turn and K back.
Row 7: Work all sts.
Row 8: Turn and work back.
Row 9: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) and K the last st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 10: Turn and K back.
Repeat from 3rd-10th row 1 more time (= 18 rows in total). There are now 27-29 sts on needle.
Now work as follows:
Row 19: Work until 1 st remains on needle, K this st
tog with next st on domino square (= mid st at the top of domino square).
Row 20: Turn and work back.
Then work as follows:
Row 1: K until 1 st remains on needle, 1 YO, K the next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 2: Turn and K back. K YO twisted to avoid holes.
Rows 3-6: Work as 1st and 2nd row.
Row 7: K all sts.
Row 8: Turn and K back.
Row 9: K until 1 st remains on needle, 1 YO, K the next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 10: Turn and K back. K YO twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat 3rd-10th row 1 more time (= 18 rows in total).
When all sts on domino square have been worked tog with ridges and there are 34-36 sts on needle. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
Continue back and forth with stripes and garter st until piece measures 8-9 cm / 3"-3½" - adjust to finish with a stripe in rose mist. Bind off.
Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.
Sew bind-off edge and cast-on edge tog by sewing one and one st neatly tog with gray. Fasten off.
Knit another wrist warmer the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 10.10.2016
Correction: HALF DOMINO SQUARE (hat):... Repeat 1st- 4th row, i.e. so that 1 st is dec on each side of marker on every row and dec 1 st at beg and end of every 4th row until 1 st remain, cut the thread and pull through the last st.
Updated online: 29.07.2019
Correction - SCARF, PART 6: At end of every row dec 1 st. Dec as follows 25 times in total, pull yarn through last st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
symbols = pick up sts
symbols = work sts from stitch holder back on needle
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (41)

Jana wrote:

Tell me please, how many sts should i cast on for one half domino square?

01.10.2016 - 17:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jana, the half domino square is worked for the beret. Cast on 65-73 sts (see size) for 1st half domino square, then pick up 32-36 sts along the side of 1st domino and cast on 33-37 new sts = 65-73 sts for each of the next dominos. For the last domino, pick up 65-73 sts along the side of last domino + along the side of 1st domino. Happy knitting!

03.10.2016 - 09:13

country flag Sonja Demerlier wrote:

Voor de halve domino moet je stoppen met 1 steek. Volgens jullie moet ik 36 steken over hebben en 37 steken bijzetten. Hoe kom je dan aan cirkel voor de rand te breien. In jullie uitleg staat da je 36 stekken moet opnemen tot de markeerder langst de opzet rand en 37 steken bijzetten Tis voor de andere domino's da ik het niet versta

23.09.2016 - 16:47

country flag Sonja Demerlier wrote:

Voor de halve domino moet je stoppen met 1 steek. Volgens jullie moet ik 36 steken over hebben en 37 steken bijzetten. Hoe kom je dan aan cirkel voor de rand te breien. In jullie uitleg staat da je 36 stekken moet opnemen tot de markeerder langst de opzet rand en 37 steken bijzetten Tis voor de andere domino's da ik het niet versta

23.09.2016 - 16:46

country flag Sonja Demerlier wrote:

Heb de uitleg van de baret(muts) nog eens gelezen en je moet stoppen met 1 st voor de halve domino vierkant. Meer jij zegt da ik 36 st over moet hebben. Volgens de uitleg zet je 73 st op en brei je eerste halve domino vierkant en dan neem 36 s t op langst de opzet rand. In de uitleg zeggen ze niet da 36 st over hebt.

17.09.2016 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Sonja. We hebben het patroon een beetje aangepast. Volgens mij klopt het nu wel.

20.10.2016 - 16:58

country flag Sonja Demerlier wrote:

In de uitleg van de half domino staat dat je de 4 nld moet herhalen tot er 1 st over is.voor de tweede half domino staat beschreven.neem 36 st op langs de opzet rand tot de markeerder en zet 37 st op. Is da aan de onderkant van de opzet rand. Dit moet je herhalen tot je 7 half domino vierkanten hebt. Weet niet of zal lukken heb de beschreving al een paar keer gelezen .

16.09.2016 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Zie antwoord hierboven

20.10.2016 - 16:59

country flag Sonja Demerlier wrote:

Hartelijk dank voor het antwoorden, maar worden de steken, de 36st voor de tweede half domino aan de onderkant ( de eerst 73 st opzet) van de eerste half domino opgenomen tot de markeerde en dan 37 st opzetten. Dank u.

16.09.2016 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Sonja. Nee, je hebt 36 st over als je klaar bent met de halve domino. Dan zet je 37 nieuwe st op aan het eind van de nld - zoals te zien is in deze video:

16.09.2016 - 16:05

country flag Sonja Demerlier wrote:

Ik heb de wol voor de baret besteld, als je de tweede half domino moeit breien worden de 36 steken aan de onderkant van de opzet rand op genomen en dan 37 staat opzetten. Hoe werk je baret dan af

15.09.2016 - 06:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Sonja. Je hebt 36 st over en zet dan 37 nieuwe st op zoals er staat (in totaal 73 st). Dan brei je nog een halve domino over deze st. Ga door volgens het patroon en je eindigt met een cirkel van 7 halve dominos.

15.09.2016 - 12:13

country flag Gudrun Loger wrote:

Hallo, ich möchtest gerne die Armstulpen stricken, komme aber mit Der Anleitung nicht klar. Wenn ich das Dominoquadrat fertig habe und die mit den 36 Maschen verbinden will, passt das nicht.Ich stricke die 1M mit 2 M. von Quadrat zusammen und habe ja vorher auch schon 1M abgenommen,also werden es doch immer weniger? Und meine M. vom Quadrat sind schon viel eher verbraucht, als ich Reihen stricken soll? Hab ich da ein Denkfehler?

14.09.2016 - 09:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Loger, wenn Sie das Quadrat zusammenstricken, haben Sie immer weniger Maschen (1 M wird am 1., 3., 5. und 9. R abgenommen), dh nach 9.R haben Sie keine 36 M mehr sondern 32 + 21 M von Quadrat), dann stricken Sie noch mal R 3 bis 9 = 29 M sind jetzt übrig und 15 M von Quadrat. Am nächsten R stricken Sie die nächste M von Quadrat zs = 29 M + 14 von Quadrat. Dann nehmen Sie vor dem Quadrat zu bei dem Sie immer 2 M von Quadrat zsstricken, dann haben Sie wieder 36 M wenn alle Maschen von Quadrat zusammengestrickt sind.

14.09.2016 - 09:46

country flag Heike Koenig wrote:

Schicke Mütze und ausgefallene Pulswärmer, freue mich aufs Nacharbeiten

12.06.2016 - 22:10

country flag Soledad wrote:

Muy elegante y original. La combinación de colores es suave. Gracias.

06.06.2016 - 08:38

Tara



Set consists of: Knitted DROPS beret and wrist warmers with domino squares and scarf worked diagonally with stripes in ”Fabel”.

DROPS 171-48
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-357
Yarn group A
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BERET:
Size: S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 623, rose mist
and use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 200, gray
NOTE: If the hat is worked with one color 100 g Fabel are used.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

SCARF:
Measurements: Width: approx. 22 cm / 8¾" Length: approx. 150 cm / 59"
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 623, rose mist
and use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 200, gray
NOTE: If the scarf is worked with one color 150 g Fabel are used.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

WRIST WARMERS:
Size: S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 16-17 cm / 6¼"-6¾" Length (includes domino square): 17-18 cm / 6 3/4-7"
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 623, rose mist
and use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 200, gray
NOTE: If the wrist warmers is worked with one color 50 g Fabel are used.

DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
Always pick up sts with gray, then work 1 row from WS with gray. Then work * 2 rows with rose mist, 2 rows with gray *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN (applies to scarf):
See illustration A.1.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in one st.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog.

HALF DOMINO SQUARE (hat):
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K rest of row (= 2 sts dec).
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 sts tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K rest of row.
Row 3: K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K rest of row.
Row 4: Work the first 2 sts K tog, (= 1 st dec), K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec), K until 2 sts remain, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec).
Repeat 1st- 4th row, i.e. so that 1 st is dec on each side of marker on every row and dec 1 st at beg and end of every 4th row until 1 st remain, cut the yarn and pull through the last st.

DOMINO SQUARE (wrist warmer):
Insert a marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remain before st with marker, 1 YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO, K the rest of row.
Row 3: K all sts. NOTE: K YOs twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row until 13 sts have been inc in total on each side of mid st = 29 sts in total on needle. Adjust so that last row is worked from WS (with rose mist).
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BERET:
First work a circle with half domino squares. Then pick up st around edge on the 7 half domino squares before continuing in the round with an edge in garter st.

Cast on 65-73 sts with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work STRIPES and HALF DOMINO SQUARE (hat) - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When entire half domino square has been worked vertically, continue as follows: Beg from RS with gray and pick up 1 st in every st along the cast-on edge down to st with marker on previous half domino square worked = 32-36 sts, then cast on 33-37 new sts. Then work half domino square the same way as on first half domino square.
Continue like this by picking up sts and working half domino squares in the round until 7 half domino squares have been worked in total. NOTE: When working the last half domino square, pick up sts along cast-on edge on previous half domino square worked, then pick up sts along cast-on edge on the first half domino square.

Now pick up sts around the edge of hat as follows:
Beg from RS with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and pick up 28-32 sts along the edge of each half domino square = 196-224 sts.
Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. When 2 ridges with gray have been worked, continue in the round with stripes and garter st as before and on next round dec as follows: * K 26-30 sts, K the next 2 sts tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 189-217 sts.
Dec like this every other ridge a total of 8-8 times and then every ridge 3-6 times in total = 119-126 sts. NOTE: On every dec work 1 st less between every dec on every round with dec. Continue in garter st and stripes until piece measures 12-13 cm / 4¾"-5" from marker. Now work 4 ridges with gray. Bind off.
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SCARF:
Worked back and forth on needle.

PART 1:
Cast on 1 st on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with gray. Work in GARTER ST and STRIPES - see explanation above. Inc 1 st at the end of every row from RS – READ INCREASE TIP, inc like this 17 times in total = 18 sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS while dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP = 17 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

PART 2:
Pick up 17 sts along the ridges in the side on part 1 - A.1 = approx. 1 st in every ridge. Work in garter st and stripes as before and at beg of every row from RS inc 1 st. Inc like this 17 times in total = 34 sts. Then dec 1 st at beg of every row from RS. Dec like this 17 times in total = 17 sts. Work last row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

PART 3:
Pick up 1 st in every ridge from the side on part 2 (= 34 sts), slip sts from stitch holder on part 1 back on needle and work these sts = 51 sts. Work in garter st and stripes as before. At beg of every row from WS dec 1 st. Dec like this 34 times in total = 17 sts. Work last row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

PART 4:
Slip sts from stitch holder on part 2 back on left needle and work them, pick up 1 st in every ridge from part 3 = 51 sts. Work in garter st and stripes as before. At beg of every row from RS dec 1 st. Dec like this 34 times in total = 17 sts. Work last row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn.

Repeat 3rd and 4th part upwards until scarf measures approx. 134 cm / 52¾" along the longest of the sides. Next to last part = part 5. Work as part 3 but keep sts on needle after dec = 17 sts. Continue with garter st and stripes as before. At beg and end of every row from RS dec 1 st. Dec as follows 8 times in total, pull yarn through last st. Cut the yarn.

LAST PART (PART 6):
Slip sts from stitch holder back on left needle and work them, pick up 1 st in every ridge from previous part = 51 sts. Work in garter st and stripes as before. At end of every row dec 1 st. Dec as follows 25 times in total, pull yarn through last st.
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WRIST WARMERS:
Cast on 3 sts with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5.
Work STRIPES and DOMINO SQUARE (wrist warmer) - see explanation above.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When entire domino square has been worked, insert a marker in last st worked (= from WS). Cut the yarn. Slip all sts on a stitch holder (or an extra circular needle).

Cast on 34-36 sts with gray on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 1 row from WS. Then work back and forth in stripes and garter st as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) and K next st tog with st with marker on domino square + next st on domino square (= 2 sts from domino square)
Row 2 (WS): Turn and work back.
Row 3: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) and K next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 4: Turn and work back.
Row 5: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog (= 1 st dec) and K next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 6: Turn and K back.
Row 7: Work all sts.
Row 8: Turn and work back.
Row 9: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) and K the last st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 10: Turn and K back.
Repeat from 3rd-10th row 1 more time (= 18 rows in total). There are now 27-29 sts on needle.
Now work as follows:
Row 19: Work until 1 st remains on needle, K this st
tog with next st on domino square (= mid st at the top of domino square).
Row 20: Turn and work back.
Then work as follows:
Row 1: K until 1 st remains on needle, 1 YO, K the next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 2: Turn and K back. K YO twisted to avoid holes.
Rows 3-6: Work as 1st and 2nd row.
Row 7: K all sts.
Row 8: Turn and K back.
Row 9: K until 1 st remains on needle, 1 YO, K the next st tog with the next 2 sts on domino square.
Row 10: Turn and K back. K YO twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat 3rd-10th row 1 more time (= 18 rows in total).
When all sts on domino square have been worked tog with ridges and there are 34-36 sts on needle. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
Continue back and forth with stripes and garter st until piece measures 8-9 cm / 3"-3½" - adjust to finish with a stripe in rose mist. Bind off.
Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.
Sew bind-off edge and cast-on edge tog by sewing one and one st neatly tog with gray. Fasten off.
Knit another wrist warmer the same way.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knitting direction
symbol = pick up sts
symbol = work sts from stitch holder back on needle

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