DROPS / 171 / 21

Fall Festival by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in "Big Delight". Size: S - XXXL.

  • Fall Festival / DROPS 171-21 - Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in Big Delight. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Fall Festival / DROPS 171-21 - Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in Big Delight. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Fall Festival / DROPS 171-21 - Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in Big Delight. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Fall Festival / DROPS 171-21 - Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in Big Delight. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Fall Festival / DROPS 171-21 - Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in Big Delight. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no db-065
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/ XXXL

Materials:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio
500-600-700 g color no 06, fall forest

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 – or size needed to get 13 dc x 8 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 7.80 $ /100g
DROPS Big Delight print DROPS Big Delight print 7.80 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of round with ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round.
Replace first dc at beg of round with ch 3, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Replace first tr at beg of round with ch 4, finish round with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
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JACKET WORKED IN A CIRCLE:
Crochet 4 ch on hook SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 with Big Delight and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work according to A.1. READ CROCHET INFO! REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When A.1 has been worked, circle measures approx. 33 cm / 13'' in diameter and there are 27 tr-groups on round.

Size L/XL-XXL/XXXL: Work according to A.2, on first round in A.2 inc 9 ch-spaces evenly (inc the same way as on 6th round in A.1, inc 1 ch-space as follows: Work 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of tr-group, 9 ch, 1 sc around ch between tr-groups, 9 ch, 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of next tr-group) = 36-36 ch-spaces. Work A.2 1 time vertically.

ALL SIZES: = 27-36-36 tr-groups. Work next round as round 1 in A.3, AT THE SAME TIME work armholes as follows:
1 sc around ch-space in the middle of tr-group, work 30-33-36 loose ch, skip 5-6-7 tr-groups, 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of next tr-group (armhole has been worked), * 12 ch, 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of next tr-group *, repeat from *-* 8-14-12 times in total, work 30-33-36 loose ch, skip 5-6-7 tr-groups, 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of next tr-group (another armhole has been worked), * 12 ch, 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of next tr-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at beg of round (instead of 1 sc around next ch-space).

Work next round as round 2 in A.3 as follows: Work the same way as before with 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc around every ch-space, around every ch-space for armhole work 6-7-8 dc-groups, AT THE SAME TIME inc 9 dc-groups evenly on round, inc 1 dc-group by working 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc + 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc around 1 ch-space = 36-45-45 dc-groups.
ROUND 3: Work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr around ch-space in the middle of every dc-group and 1 ch between every tr-group = 36-45-45 tr-groups with 1 ch between each.

Continue to work according to A.3, AT THE SAME TIME inc 9 ch-spaces evenly every time 1st round is worked, as follows:
ROUND 1: Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space (in the middle of a tr-group), 1 sc, * 12 ch, 1 sc around next ch-space in the middle of a tr-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round AT THE SAME TIME inc 9 ch-spaces evenly on round = 45-54-54 ch-spaces (finish round with 6 ch and 1 dtr in first sc at beg of round).
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc around every ch-space the entire round = 45-54-54 dc-groups.
ROUND 3: Work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr around every ch-space in dc-group and 1 ch between every tr-group the entire round = 45-54-54 tr-group with 1 ch between each.

Repeat 1st-3rd round 3-3-4 more times, AT THE SAME TIME inc 9 ch-spaces every time 1st round is worked = 72-81-90 tr-group.

To get an oval shape on jacket work back and forth only over the bottom 47-54-61 tr-groups, do not work over the middle 25-27-29 tr-groups at the top of neck.

Beg from RS and repeat 1st-3rd row in A.3 as before 2 times in total (i.e. back is 6 rows longer vertically), to get a nice transition on every turn work as shown in A.4 and A.5, AT THE SAME TIME inc 7 ch-spaces every time 1st row is worked (= 86-95-104 tr-groups in total on round incl tr-groups towards the neck).
Finish with 1 round ch-spaces around the entire jacket (from RS) as follows: * ch 4, 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of a tr-group, ch 4, 1 sc before next tr-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round, fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Work 60-66-72 dc around armhole (approx. 5 dc in every tr-group and approx. 30-33-36 dc around ch-space – beg mid under sleeve).

Work next round as follows:
* 1 dc in first/next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30-33-36 dc + 30-33-36 ch.
Continue to work as follows:
ROUND 1: * ch 6, skip 5 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 10-11-12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc around every ch-space the entire round = 10-11-12 dc-groups.
ROUND 3: Work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr around every ch-space in dc-group and 1 ch between every tr-group the entire round = 10-11-12 tr-group with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 4: * 12 ch, 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of tr-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 10-11-12 ch-spaces but at the same time dec 1 ch-space on round mid under sleeve as follows: 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of next to last tr-group on round, ch 6, 1 dc around ch-space in the middle of tr-group to be skipped, ch 6, 1 sc around ch-space in the middle of next tr-group). On new round work dc-group mid under sleeve in dc between the 2 ch-spaces with 6 ch = 9-10-11 dc-groups.
Repeat 2nd-4th round and dec at the same time 1 ch-space every 3rd round so that there is 1 tr-group/ch-space less on round. When there are 5-6-7 tr-groups/ch-spaces on round, work without dec until piece measures 54-54-56 cm / 21 1/4"-21 1/4"-22", or desired measurements, try the jacket while working. Fasten off and repeat on the other sleeve.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch 4, 1 sl st in first ch (see point on circle), round beg and ends here
symbols = ch
symbols = sl st
symbols = work sl sts until the middle of first ch-space, 1 ch
symbols = sc around ch-space
symbols = dc around ch-space
symbols = dc in st
symbols = tr in st
symbols = dtr in st
symbols = 6 ch
symbols = 12 ch
symbols = 9 ch
symbols = 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr around ch-space in dc-group
symbols = ch 4, 1 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr around ch-space in dc-group
symbols = round shows last round on previous diagram, round has already been worked
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (265)

country flag Tina Blaschke 10.05.2021 - 18:10:

Hallo, ich habe leider nicht ganz die anleitung zum häkeln der armlöcher verstanden. stehe jetzt an dem punkt wo ich a2 fertig habe und mich über den nächsten teil wagen sollte, aber nicht ganz klar ist, wie das zu häkeln ist. bis zu 1. reihe a3 kann ich noch folgen, aber wie/wo/wann beginne ich mit den armlöchern? vielleicht könntest du mir das noch etwas genauer erläutern? danke tina

user icon DROPS Design 11.05.2021 kl. 07:31:

Liebe Tina, um die Armlöchern zu häkeln werden Sie D-Stb-Gruppen überspringen und diese Maschen durch Lm-ketten (30-33-36 Lm) ersetzen, so haben Sie 2 Löcher für die Ärmel. Das 1. Armloch häkeln Sie am Anfang der Runde = 30-33-36 Lm häkeln und 5-6-7 D-Stb-Gruppe überspringen, und das 2.Armloch nach 8-14-22 wietere Lm-Bogen (von *bis* wiederholen), dh die Runde genauso wie beschrieben häkeln. Bei der 2. Runde häkeln Sie A.3 weiter gleichzeitig nehmen Sie wie zuvor zu, dh auch in die Lm-Bogen zunehmen, damit Sie am Ende dieser 2. Runde 36 oder 45 Stb Gruppen haben. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Sheri 09.05.2021 - 01:50:

Your pattern mentions to check gauge, but I don't see a gauge listed anywhere in the English pattern! Could you please provide it, or tell me where to find it? Also, do you have approximate finished measurements for your sizes? Due to sizing differences between patterns, I am unsure if I should make the S/M or L/XL. Thank you!

user icon DROPS Design 09.05.2021 kl. 13:42:

Dear Sheri, the gauge is given at the material list, right next to the hook sizes. " DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 mm – or size needed to get 13 tr x 8 rows = 10 x 10 cm". Happy Crafting!

country flag Christiane Wiezorke 29.03.2021 - 11:21:

Hi, I have wool with a run length of 250m/100g that I really want to use for this wonderful pattern. How do I convert the numbers? Does anyone have an idea? Thanks.

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2021 kl. 08:48:

Dear Mrs Wiezorke, We are unfortunately not able to adjust each pattern to each individual request. Please contact the store where you bought the yarn for any further individual assistance. Thanks for your comprehension.

country flag Katya 27.02.2021 - 14:03:

Buongiorno. Ha provato a seguire lo schema ma non mi è chiaro come devo procedere con le maniche. Può gentilmente aiutarmi? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 27.02.2021 kl. 19:26:

Buonasera Katya, quale parte delle maniche le crea difficoltà? Buon lavoro!

country flag Gloria 16.02.2021 - 05:25:

No es muy exacto el patrón, yo decidí hacerle ajustes, porque las explicaciones son confusas y cuando vi la cantidad de preguntas, me quedo claro que hay problemas con la explicación. Yo hice el círculo hasta obtener el ancho de espalda y luego tejí cadenas que para hacer las sisas y una vez las cerré, recomencé la puntada, porque no cuadra fácilmente con las explicaciones. Creo que quien las escribe, no diseño el tejido

country flag Natalie 08.02.2021 - 06:13:

I have crocheted a few round rows, the last round I crocheted had the long chains that skipped groups in order to make sleeves. However moving in to the next several rounds has me confused. Should the rounds after the sleeves include working the chains that previously made the sleeve and skipping that same section that was skipped when making the sleeve chain, or should I skip the chain and work the Part that was skipped over for the chain sleeve as part of the round. Or should I work both.

user icon DROPS Design 08.02.2021 kl. 11:04:

Dear Natalie, for the armholes you are skipping stitches replaced by chains on both places on the round. After this round has been worked, you will crochet in the round as before, ie crochet in both ch-spaces for armholes as they were stitches and no holes so that the pattern will continue as before. Hope this will help. Happy crocheting!

country flag LANIE 05.02.2021 - 16:01:

I have just finished A3 . it says Repeat 1st-3rd round (4) more times.. so I am going around the whole piece doing A3-- 4 more times? I feel like that will wind up covering the beautiful circle mandala in the middle of the back. If this is the case... then how do I then skip to under the middle and neck area back and forth to make the "oval"? where am I starting the row on the piece? My clusters look good but my bumber count is off so 29 groups is not the right place on my piece

user icon DROPS Design 08.02.2021 kl. 07:32:

Dear Lanie, if your tension is correct, you should have same measurements as in the chart when you have worked the 5 repeats of A.3 in total (increasing 9 ch-spaces every time you work 1st round so that you end with 90 tr-groups. To make the oval shape, lye circle flat and fold it double so that armholes are over each other, place markers to count the bottom 61 tr groups where you will work over and the 29 tr-groups towards neck you will leave now unworked. Happy crocheting!

country flag Dorena 23.01.2021 - 21:04:

How can I get this pattern in English on YouTube

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2021 kl. 09:07:

Dear Dorena, this pattern is only available in our website - you will find some lessons and video to help you if required - see just above your comment. Happy crocheting!

country flag Crystal 31.12.2020 - 19:12:

I am working on the first row after the armholes, 2nd row of A3. So If I am understanding correctly, I need to do the increase after every 4th dc group to add 9 evenly around. So does that mean in the armhole space I will add an increase at the 4th dc group which would be the 3rd dc group in the armhole, so with that plus the 8 dc groups in the armhole chain space I would actually have 9 dc groups in the first armhole space?

user icon DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 13:58:

Dear Crystal, after the armhole you continue working in the both chains for armholes as if they weren't stitch groups skipped and at the same time you increase evenly in the round 9 dc groups, ie the 9 ch-spaces have to be increased evenly and not only in the chains for armholes. Happy crocheting!

country flag Alison Jones 29.12.2020 - 21:08:

Hello there, Can you tell me which size would make a UK 12-14 please?

user icon DROPS Design 30.12.2020 kl. 08:05:

Hi Alison, There is a measurements chart for each size at the bottom of the pattern . Happy crocheting!

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