DROPS / 165 / 40

Gypsy Blue by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in "Big Delight" and "Karisma". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no db-053
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio
300-400-400-500-500-500 g color no 09, atlantis
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color no 60, blue turquoise

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 6 mm / J/10 – or size needed to get 12 tr in width x 4.5 tr vertically alternately with 1 round Big Delight and 1 round Karisma = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 7.80 $ /100g
DROPS Big Delight print DROPS Big Delight print 7.80 $ /100g
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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DECREASE TIP:
2 tr tog into 1 tr as follows: Work 1 tr but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 tr in next st but pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook.

CROCHET TIP:
Replace first tr on round with 4 ch. Finish with 1 sl st in fourth ch from beg of round.
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CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid hole in the middle (instead of ch-ring) use Big Delight: Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the yarn over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull yarn through loop, work ch 1, then work around the loop as follows:
ROUND 1: ch 1, 1 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr. Insert 1 stitch marker in loop on last tr so that it does not unravel and place yarn aside. Switch to Karisma and work as follows in loop: 1 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr. Pull the yarn end to tighten loop. Fasten the yarn end on the back side.

ROUND 2: (Continue with Karisma). Work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the first 7 sts (= 1 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc and 2 tr worked with Big Delight). Insert 1 stitch marker in loop on last tr so that it does not unravel and place yarn aside. Continue with Big Delight. Work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the next 7 sts (= 1 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc and 2 tr worked with Karisma) = 14 tr + 14 ch.
ROUND 3: (Continue with Big Delight.) Work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the first 7 tr, insert 1 stitch marker in loop on last tr so that it does not unravel and put yarn aside. Continue with Karisma, work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the next 7 tr = 28 tr + 28 ch.
ROUND 4: (Continue with Karisma). * Work 1 tr + 1 ch in the next tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in the next tr *, repeat from *-* 7 times. Insert 1 stitch marker in loop on last tr so that it does not unravel and place yarn aside. Continue with Big Delight. * Work 1 tr + 1 ch in the next tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in the next tr *, repeat from *-* 7 times = 42 tr + 42 ch.
ROUND 5: (Continue with Big Delight.) * Work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the next 2 tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in the next tr *, repeat from *-* 7 times. Insert 1 stitch marker in loop on last tr so that it does not unravel and place yarn aside. Continue with Karisma. * Work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the next 2 tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in the next tr *, repeat from *-* 7 times = 56 tr + 56 ch.

Repeat 4th and 5th round but on every round work 1 tr + 1 ch more between every inc = 14 tr + 14 ch inc on every round. Continue until there are 112-112-126-126-140-140 tr + 112-112-126-126-140-140 ch on round, circle measures approx. 20-20-23-23-25-25 cm / 8"-8"-9"-9"-9 3/4"-9 3/4" from middle (= 40-40-46-46-50-50 cm / 15 3/4"-15 3/4"-18"-18"-19 3/4"-19 3/4" in diameter).

Work next round as follows: (Continue with spiral and color change but without inc.) Work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the first 16-16-18-18-20-20 tr, work 24-24-28-28-32-32 loose ch for armhole, skip the next 16-16-18-18-20-20 tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch in every tr until 32-32-36-36-40-40 tr remain on round, work 24-24-28-28-32-32 loose ch for armhole, skip the next 16-16-18-18-20-20 tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the last 16-16-18-18-20-20 tr.

Work next round as follows:
* Work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the next 7-7-8-8-9-9 tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in next tr *, repeat from *-* 2 times, work 18-18-20-20-22-22 tr with 1 ch between each around ch-space, * work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the next 7-7-8-8-9-9 tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in next tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times. Insert 1 stitch marker in loop on last tr so that it does not unravel and place yarn aside. Switch yarn. * Work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the next 7-7-8-8-9-9 tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in next tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times, work 18-18-20-20-22-22 tr with 1 ch between each around ch-space, * work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the next 7-7-8-8-9-9 tr, work 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in next tr *, repeat from *-* 2 times = 126-126-140-140-154-154 tr + ch on round.

Work as 4th and 5th round but on every round work 1 tr + 1 ch more between every inc = 14 tr + 14 ch inc on every round. Continue until circle measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' from middle (= 104-108-112-116-120-124 cm / 41"-42½"-44"-45 3/4"-47 1/4"-48 3/4" in diameter, or desired measurements).

Finish circle as follows: Continue with the same yarn as last round. Work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 2 tr, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr, 1 sl st in next tr, fasten off. Work the same way in the other side.

SLEEVES:
Work in the round from armhole and down. Use hook size 6 mm / J/10 and beg with opposite color of the one the last tr around armholes was worked with. Work stripes, i.e. work 1 round with Karisma and 1 round with Big Delight - READ CROCHET TIP.

Work 36-38-40-42-44-46 tr around the opening for sleeve, beg of round should be under sleeve. Then work 3 rounds with 1 tr in every tr. Continue with 1 tr in every tr - AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 tr mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 8 cm / 3 1/8'' 6 more times = 22-24-26-28-30-32 tr. Continue to work until sleeve measures 54-55-54-55-54-55 cm / 21 1/4"-21½"-21 1/4"-21½"-21 1/4"-21½". Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 165-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (149)

Kris 05.05.2020 - 00:46:

I am stuck in the section were we are chaining in for the sleeves. I have 112 tr from the section before.And no matter what I do I end up with extra 16. I can't figure out were they go reading the instructions. Leave it for the front. Turn and start back or continue? Help confused!!!

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 11:28:

Dear Kris, next round for armholes will be worked with the two yarns/colours as before but you won't increase on this round as you did before: Work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the first 16tr, work 24 loose ch for armhole, skip the next 16 tr (this create a hole for armhole), work 1 tr + 1 ch in every tr until 32 tr remain on round, work 24 loose ch for armhole, skip the next 16 tr (2nd hole for 2nd armhole), work 1 tr + 1 ch in each of the last 16 tr. On next round, work as before with both yarns and increasing as explained for this round. Happy crocheting!

Jennifer 03.01.2020 - 21:36:

Bonjour Terminer le cercle ainsi: Continuer avec le fil de la même couleur que le dernier tour. Crocheter 1 DB dans chacune des 2 DB suivantes, 1 B dans chacune des 2 DB suivantes, 1 dB dans chacune des 2 DB suivantes, 1 ms dans la DB suivante, 1 mc dans la DB suivante, arrêter. .. Faut-il le faire a chaque cercle d\'augmentation après les emmanchures ou juste le tout dernier ? et cela sera-t-il placé devant ou derrière le gilet ?\r\nMerci

Clarice Merritt 31.12.2019 - 05:03:

How to increase to size 5x size?

DROPS Design 31.12.2019 kl. 17:29:

Dear Mrs Merritt, to get a larger jacket you will have to adjust the number of stitches to your own size. Should you need any individual assistance, please contact the store where you bought the yarn, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Laura Robles 19.12.2019 - 03:04:

1st. I'd like to thank you for the pattern. What I need to know is: on the sleeve decrease, am I to decrease 2 times every decrease round? What I mean is do I decrease in the middle of the sleeve then at the end again. Please help I'm not getting 32 tr after decreasing 1plus 6 times.

DROPS Design 19.12.2019 kl. 08:20:

Dear Mrs Robles, you should decrease 2 sts mid under sleeve, ie 1 st at the beg of the round + 1 st at the end of the round a total of 7 times = you should have 14 sts less after all decreases are worked. Happy crocheting!

Roussey 18.11.2019 - 08:18:

Bonjour je ne comprend pas quand vous dîtes Crocheter comme les tours 4 et 5 mais à chaque tour, crocheter 1 DB + 1 ml de plus entre chaque augmentation = 14 DB + 14 ml augmentées tous les tours. Continuer jusqu'à ce que le cercle mesure 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm depuis le centre (= 104-108-112-116-120-124 cm de diamètre, ou taille souhaitée).je ne sais pas où sont les augmentations si elles sont à la fin du de chaque tour?

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 11:00:

Bonjour Mme Roussey, les augmentations vont se faire les unes au-dessus des autres, vous augmentez 14 double-brides par tour: au tour 6, vous allez crocheter: *1 DB, 1 ml dans les 3 DB suivantes, puis 1 augmentation (= 1 DB, 1 ml, 1 DB, 1 ml) dans la DB suivante*, et répéter de *-* (en changeant de laine comme avant). Au tour 7, vous crochèterez *1 DB, 1 ml dans les 4 m suivantes, 1 augmentation*, et ainsi de suite. Bon crochet!

Lara 02.11.2019 - 19:19:

I am fine up to round 3 which has a total of 28 tr and 28 ch. However when I did round 4 I end up with 49 tr and 49 chain. I redid the rows but I still end up with 49 sets. can someone help me? Instructions say I should have 42 sets (tr and ch).

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 16:25:

Dear Lara, make sure you change the colours on the right place, and you are working half round with each colour, increasing in every other stitch. Happy crocheting!

Dolores Sanders 14.08.2019 - 18:34:

Please help I cant seem to download a patten, cant seem to find anything that say "download"

DROPS Design 15.08.2019 kl. 09:48:

Dear Mrs Sanders, our pattern can only be printed, but using a virtual printer you would be allowed to save them as a .PDF file. Happy crocheting!

Teresa Babinst 08.07.2019 - 05:30:

Can this be made in an acrylic size 4 yarn.

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 10:42:

Dear Mrs Babinst, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to contact your DROPS Store for any further help & assistance. Thank you for your comprehension.

Teresa Babinat 08.07.2019 - 05:29:

Can this be made in a n acrylic size 4 yarn.

Diane 13.06.2019 - 06:26:

I got interested in this watching the video that shows the 1st 3 rounds. But when I tried to match up the written pattern with the video I got confused. I noticed that in round 3 of the written pattern there are increases. The video shows no increases. I would suggest changing the video to reflect the actual pattern so it won't confuse people.

DROPS Design 13.06.2019 kl. 09:29:

Dear Diane, the video shows only how to start and change colors, but remember to always follow the pattern and the diagram at the same time, ie increase as explained in the written pattern. Happy crocheting!

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