DROPS Extra / 0-1288

Aura by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern worked top down in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Aura / DROPS Extra 0-1288 - Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern worked top down in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no r-687
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color no 18, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows lace pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or size needed to get 22 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc by making 1 YO on each side of st with marker in (= 2 sts inc). On next round K the YOs to make holes.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (applies to distribution of dec/inc):
To calculate how often dec/inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 154 sts) and divide by no of dec/inc to be done (e.g. 10) = 15.4. I.e. in this example K alternately approx. every 14th and 15th st and 15th and 16th st tog (when dec) or inc after alternately approx. every 15th and 16th st.
NOTE: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round P YO twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for correct size.
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TOP:
The piece is worked top down. First work yoke at the front and back, back and forth in 2 parts, then slip sts tog and work piece in the round until finished measurements.

YOKE AT THE BACK:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 71-71-77-81-85-91 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and insert 1 marker in the 18th-18th-20th-22nd-22nd-24th st in from each side (= 35-35-37-37-41-43 sts between markers).
K 1 row from WS. Then work in GARTER ST - see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS inc on each side of the 2 sts with markers - READ INCREASE TIP-1 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 18-20-20-22-25-25 times in total = 143-151-157-169-185-191 sts on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
K 1 row from WS after last inc. Piece measures approx. 8-9-9-10-11-11 cm / 3"-3½"-3½"-4"-4½"-4½". Work next row as follows from RS: bind off the first 35-37-39-43-46-48 sts (= strap), K the next 73-77-79-83-93-95 sts (the first of these sts is already on right needle), then bind off the last 35-37-39-43-46-48 sts (= strap), cut the yarn. Work next row as follows from WS: Cast on 3-5-9-12-14-20 new sts at beg of row, work the 73-77-79-83-93-95 sts from needle and cast on 3-5-9-12-14-20 new sts at the end of row = 79-87-97-107-121-135 sts. Work in garter st back and forth for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2'' – AT THE SAME TIME after 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½'', dec 1 st in each side by K tog the 2 second outermost sts in each side from RS = 77-85-95-105-119-133 sts. When ridges are done, adjust so that last row is a row with K from WS, put piece aside.

YOKE AT THE FRONT:
Cast on and work as yoke at the back.

BODY:
Slip sts from yoke front and back on to same circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 = 154-170-190-210-238-266 sts. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 and dec AT THE SAME TIME 10-14-10-6-10-14 sts evenly on 1st round – READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 144-156-180-204-228-252 sts and 12-13-15-17-19-21 repetitions of 12 sts. When A.1 has been worked, work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 while AT THE SAME TIME dec 2-6-6-6-6-6 sts evenly on 1st round = 142-150-174-198-222-246 sts and dec 6 sts evenly on 11th round = 136-144-168-192-216-240 sts. After A.2 work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 (NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size = 17-18-21-24-27-30 repetitions of 8 sts). When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 170-180-210-216-243-270 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work 2 ridges. LOOSELY bind off. Top measures approx. 47-49-49-52-53-54 cm / 18½"-19 1/4"-19 1/4"-20½"-21"-21 1/4" from shoulder and down (measured flat) - NOTE: The weight of the yarn will make the piece longer when worn.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams on yoke edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts so that the seam is flat.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO on next rnd (= holes)
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO twisted on next rnd (= no holes)
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1288) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Ally 04.03.2021 - 16:03:

Thank you for the videos how to knit a jumper from the top. Unfortunately, this top is not knitted from top. It's started from the middle. Joining top section with bottom section by slip stich. And that where my question was. How do you slip stich from the completed yoke?

user icon DROPS Design 04.03.2021 kl. 16:12:

Dear Ally, this top is worked top down, you first work the yoke on back piece then yoke on front piece separately, but then simply slip all stitches on same needle to work the body in the round to the bottom edge. Happy knitting!

country flag Ally 03.03.2021 - 16:26:

Hello, would you be able to point me out to a video on how to slip sts from yoke front and back on to the same circular needle size 3.5 mm? thank you

user icon DROPS Design 04.03.2021 kl. 07:34:

Dear Ally, we don't have such a video but maybe this video or this lessons both showing how to knit a jumper top down can help - Happy knitting!

country flag Birgit Holmboe 15.05.2020 - 12:42:

Jeg vil gerne Downloaden denen opskrift

country flag Malika Koubaili 24.02.2019 - 19:23:

Bonjour quand j'arrive au motif 3 je ne comprend pas comment faire les augmentations sur mon aiguille g 136 maille et apparament je dois en avoir 170 pour la taille s merci de votre reponse

user icon DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 11:10:

Bonjour Mme Koubaili, au rang 21 de A.3 vous allez faire 2 jetés (= 4 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 3 m end) et donc ainsi augmenter 2 m x 17= 34 augmentations + les 136 m = 170 m. Au rang 22 de A.3, tricotez ces jetés torse pour qu'ils ne fassent pas de trous. Bon tricot!

country flag Sonia B. 03.06.2018 - 19:19:

Bonjour, je suis arrivée au diagramme A.3. Moi aussi, le top arrive au milieu de la poitrine et j'ai dû prendre la taille L à cause de mon fil qui me donnait un échantillon de 25 m. au point ajouré. La largeur et la longueur sont exactement comme dans vos explications. Si j'ajoute 1 ou 2 rgs de m. serrées au crochet pour allonger les bretelles, croyez-vous que cela est une bonne idée? Je n'ai pas envie de tout recommencer. Mon travail est trop beau comme ça! Merci.

user icon DROPS Design 04.06.2018 kl. 09:28:

Bonjour Sonia B., vous pouvez tout à fait ajouter votre touche personnelle au modèle pour qu'il corresponde à vos envies. Pour toute assistance individuelle complémentaire, merci de bien vouloir contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre fil. Bon tricot!

country flag Sonia B. 01.06.2018 - 16:08:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse. Oui j'ai visionné la vidéo, mais on montre seulement la fin du rang. Mais au début du rang, il est impossible de les monter sur la même aiguille que les 79 mailles si on ne les tricote pas. J'ai donc monter les 9 mailles sur l'aiguilles droite, puis continué à tricoter les mailles de l'aiguille gauche, et monter les 9 dern. m. pour que les 18 m. soient de même niveau. C'est bien de cette manière? Merci.

user icon DROPS Design 01.06.2018 kl. 16:55:

Bonjour Sonia B., on monte d'abord 9 m - comme pour commencer un ouvrage - (en taille L), on tricote ensuite les 79 m et on monte ensuite 9 m à la fin du rang, comme dans la vidéo = 97 m sur l'aiguille, ensuite, vous tournez et tricotez ces 97 m au point mousse. Bon tricot!

country flag Sonia B. 01.06.2018 - 06:42:

Bonjour, dans cette phrase = Monter 3-5-9-12-14-20 nouvelles m en début de rang, tricoter les 73-77-79-83-93-95 m sur l'aiguille et monter 3-5-9-12-14-20 nouvelles m à la fin du rang = 79-87-97-107-121-135 m., on monte les 9 nouvelles m. mais on ne les tricote pas? Donc, on doit les monter sur l'aiguille DROITE, puis tricoter les 79 mailles de l'aig. GAUCHE et on termine par monter les 9 dernière m. sans les tricoter sur ce rang envers? Je ne comprends pas. Merci.

user icon DROPS Design 01.06.2018 kl. 09:04:

Bonjour Sonia B., c'est bien ainsi que vous devez faire, à la fin du rang, vous montez les 9 dernières mailles (cf vidéo dans une des réponses précédentes), votre rang est terminé, tournez et tricotez toutes les mailles à l'endroit (= au point mousse). Bon tricot!

country flag Sonia B. 29.05.2018 - 00:42:

Bonjour, désolée je me suis trompée de section dans ma question précédente. C'était plutôt dans cette phrase à la fin de la section empiècement dos: Tricoter le rang suivant ainsi sur l'envers: Monter 3-5-9-12-14-20 nouvelles m en début de rang, tricoter les 73-77-79-83-93-95 m sur l'aiguille et monter 3-5-9-12-14-20 nouvelles m à la fin du rang = 79-87-97-107-121-135 m. Quelle méthode pour monter les m. à la fin du rang svp? Merci.

user icon DROPS Design 29.05.2018 kl. 09:06:

Bonjour Sonia B., vous trouverez la réponse avec vidéo à l'appui dans la réponse précédente. Bon tricot!

country flag Sonia B. 29.05.2018 - 00:24:

Bonjour, merci pour vos réponses! Finalement, j'ai opté pour garder mon échantillon à 25 m. mais j'ai choisi la 3e taille et tout est parfait; ça correspond à vos explications. Lorsqu'on place toutes les m. dos et devant sur la même aig., comment monter les 9 m. au début et à la fin du rg? Y a-t-il une méthode préférable pour que cela soit plus esthétique? Merci.

user icon DROPS Design 29.05.2018 kl. 09:05:

Bonjour Sonia B., cette vidéo montre comment monter des mailles en fin de rang: montez les premières m du rang comme d'habitude, tricotez les mailles suivantes, et montez les dernières mailles à la fin du rang en suivant cette technique. Bon tricot!

country flag Sonia B. 27.05.2018 - 00:08:

Désolée, je viens de voir que le diagramme A.1 se fait quand on tricote en rond. Donc tous les rangs à l'end. Pour ce qui est de l'échantillon, j'ai monté 25 m. aig. no 3,5 pour obtenir 10 cm. Même chose pour le point mousse avec aig. no 3 = 25 m. pour 10 cm. Si mon tour de poitrine mesure 83 cm, quelle taille devrais-je choisir? J'ai pensé à la 3e taille, est-ce que cela va se situer en bout de ligne entre la 2e et la 3e taille? Je suis confuse... Merci.

user icon DROPS Design 28.05.2018 kl. 09:22:

Bonjour Sonia, pour avoir les mesures exactes du schéma, il vous faut avoir le bon échantillon soit 21 m sur les aiguilles 3,5 et 22 m sur les aiguilles 3, si vous avez 25 m pour 10 cm, il vaut mieux essayez un nouvel échantillon avec des aiguilles plus grosses - le cas échéant, lavez et faites sécher votre échantillon, mesurez de nouveau et ajustez la taille des aiguilles si nécessaire. Le nombre de rangs point mousse pour 10 cm (= 45 rangs avec les aiguilles 3) est également important pour avoir les bonnes mesures pour l'empiècement. Bon tricot!

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