Making Waves by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with stripes and wave pattern, worked top down in ”Belle”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 169-12
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-015
Yarn group B
Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
150-150-200 color no 06, silver
150-150-200 color no 04, dandelion
100-150-150 color no 16, mauve
100-150-150 g color no 02, off white
100-150-150 g color no 03, light beige
100-100-150 g color no 09, beige

NOTE: Dress worked with one color = 550-650-800 g Belle.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 30 rows in wave pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.05 $ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 3.05 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.14.

Work as follows: Switch color after a round worked P.
Cast on to 10 cm / 4'': Off white
10 cm / 4'' to 21-22-22 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4": Dandelion
21-22-22 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4" to 32-34-35 cm / 12½"-13½"-13 3/4": Silver
32-34-35 cm / 12½"-13½"-13 3/4" to 43-46-48 cm / 17"-18"-19": Beige
43-46-48 cm / 17"-18"-19" to 54-58-61 cm / 21 1/4"-22 3/4"-24": Light beige
54-58-61 cm / 21 1/4"-22 3/4"-24" to 66-70-74 cm / 26"-27½"-29": Mauve
66-70-74 cm / 26"-27½"-29"to 78-82-86 cm / 30 3/4"-32 1/4"-33 7/8": Silver

Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Cast on 98-112-140 sts on a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with off white. Work according to A.1 (= 14-16-20 repetitions in width) and work STRIPES – see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, there are 322-368-460 sts on needle. Switch to a longer circular needle when needed. Continue with A.2 until piece measures 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾''. Then work as follows: Work 92-115-138 sts (= back piece), slip the next 69-69-92 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts, work the next 92-115-138 sts (= front piece), slip the next 69-69-92 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts.

BODY: = 200-246-292 sts. Continue with A.2 over sts in wave pattern, over the 8 new sts in each side work K when K is worked in pattern and work P when P is worked in pattern. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', dec 2 st in middle of the 8 new sts in each side (= 4 sts dec), repeat dec every 4 cm / 1½'' 3 more times so that all of the new 8 sts has been dec = 184-230-276 sts. Continue with A.2 over all sts (= 8-10-12 repetitions in width).

When piece measures 38-40-42 cm / 15"-15 3/4"-16½", work A.3 1 time vertically = 200-250-300 sts. Work A.4 2 times vertically. Work A.5 1 time vertically = 216-270-324 sts. Work A.6 2 times vertically. Then work A.7 1 time vertically = 232-290-348 sts. Work A.8 2 times vertically. Then work A.9 1 time vertically = 248-310-372 sts. Work A.10 2 times vertically. Then work A.11 1 time vertically = 264-330-396 sts. Work A.12 2 times vertically. Then work A.13 1 time vertically = 280-350-420 sts. Work A.14 3 times vertically, or until piece measures 78-82-86 cm / 30 3/4"-32 1/4"-33 7/8" from shoulder. Loosely bind off.

Slip sts back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6, pick up 1 st in each of the 8 sts under sleeve = 77-77-100 sts. Continue with dandelion, work A.2 over sts in wave pattern, over the 8 new sts in each side work K when K is worked in pattern and work P when P is worked in pattern. Work 2 repetitions of A.2, every time holes and YOs are worked in A.2 dec 2 st in the middle of the 8 new sts mid under sleeve = 73-73-96 sts. Bind off. Work the other sleeve edge the same way.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Lilianne wrote:

I have just finished A.1,do I do the whole of A.2…to A.14

14.06.2023 - 01:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lilianne , afer A.1 is done in height, work and repeat A.2 until piece measures 18-20-22 cm (siee size), then divide piece and continue A.2 on body - when piece measures 38-40-42 cm, work A.3 then A.4 2 times in height, then A.5 then A.6 2 times in height, then A.7 then A.8 2 times in height, then A.9, then A.10 2 times in height, then A.11, then A.12 2 times in height, then A.13 and finally A.14 3 times in iehgt. - on sleeves continue A.2. Happy knitting!

14.06.2023 - 08:12

country flag BEATRIZ wrote:

Hola, necesito por favor mayor detalle en lo siguiente: 1) el patrón dice: Cuando A.1 ha sido tejido una vez verticalmente : ¿esto quiere decir de abajo para arriba o de arriba para abajo?...¿Cómo puedo leerlo? 2) Qué significa Tejer de acuerdo a A.1 (= 14-16-20 repeticiones a lo ancho). Agradeceré detallen estas dos partes para entender como tejerlo. Saludos!

25.04.2023 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Beatriz, 1) verticalmente hace referencia a cuando hayas trabajado todas las filas representadas en el diagrama A.1. Ten en cuenta que la dirección de los diagramas de punto es fija. (leer de derecha a izquierda y de abajo arriba 2) A.1 es el diagrama de punto (que puedes encontrar debajo de las instrucciones del patrón). Las repeticiones a lo ancho son las veces que tienes que repetir el diagrama A.1 en la misma fila. Para entender cómo trabajar nuestros diagramas de punto, puedes leer más información aquí:

30.04.2023 - 22:02

country flag Johanna Sjöblom wrote:

Hej, finns det någon liknande modell i barnstorlek?

03.09.2022 - 08:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, tyvärr finns det ingen modell som är precis lik, men se gärna på DROPS Children 28-1 som påminner lite om modellen ifråga.

04.10.2022 - 16:49

country flag Sonja wrote:

Hallo, ich habe mit dem Kleid angefangen, verstehe aber nicht, wie ich von 140 Maschen auf nur 460 Maschen komme, wenn ich durch die Umschläge soviele Maschen zunehme.

28.06.2022 - 12:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sonja, Sie stricken das Diagram A.1 20 Mal in der Runde (=20 Mal 7 Maschen sind 120 Maschen). Dann wird es wie im Diagram gezeigt nach und nach zugenommen, bis es 23 Maschen in jedem A.1 gibt, so haben Sie 20 Mal 23 Maschen =460 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.06.2022 - 08:54

country flag Jerry wrote:

Hello, on the photo there a 6 repeats of the pattern height= 36 rows, but in the instructions its stated "10 cm in natur". According to the gauge this would be 30 rows- only 5 repeats. There are also 7 repeats in each color=42 rows= 14cm. but in the instructions is stated 13 cm ( e.g. beige largest size :35-48cm)... What is the right way: to follow the instructions or look at the photograph? Is the yarn usage according to the instructions? Thank you , Jerry

10.06.2022 - 11:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jerry, you should follow the instructions; the yarn amounts are calculated for the instructions and the correct gauge and the measurement chart below the instructions. We indicate the stopping points in cm instead of rows so as to account for possible differences in the gauge. The photo is simply shown to use as a guide; depending on the size, you will need to work more or less rows of each colour. Happy knitting!

16.06.2022 - 19:51

country flag Tina wrote:

Hi, can I make this with Cotton Light please? I bought Cotton Light to make another dress but later decided I preferred this dress- They're from the same yarn group, but I think Cotton Light is a little bulkier than Belle because of the length of yarn per gram...

11.05.2022 - 23:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Tina, Yarns from the same yarn group can replace each other in the patterns. It is always advisable to do a swatch before beginning, to make sure you have the right knitting tension. Happy crafting!

12.05.2022 - 06:58

country flag Eva Kjelleström wrote:

Hej! Om jag vill sticka en top i detta garn hur mycket garn behöver jag? Vänliga hälsningar Eva

12.11.2020 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva. Vi har dessvärre ingen exakt uppgift på det, men ser jag på andra toppar stickade i Belle så ser det ut att gå åt ca halva garnmängden mot det som går åt till hela detta mönster. Mvh DROPS Design

13.11.2020 - 10:31

country flag Hanne wrote:

I svarer ikke rigtigt på mit spørgsmål.... jeg taler ikke om indtagninger, men længden... Først skriver I “Fortsæt med A.2 til arb måler 18-20-22 cm.” Dernæst: “ Når arb måler 3 cm tages der 2 m ind midt i de 8 nye m i hver side” Og dernæst:” Når arb måler 38-40-42 cm strikkes A.3 1 gang i højden” Mit spørgsmål er: hvad mener I med “3”? Mener I 30 cm? Det må i hvert fald være et tal imellem 18 og 38 cm ;-)

02.07.2020 - 11:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, jo men det stemmer, du tager ind i siden allerede efter de første 3 cm (gælder alle størrelser) og (helt uafhængig af hvad resten af arbejdet måler i de forskellige størrelser).God fornøjelse :)

02.07.2020 - 11:57

country flag Hanne wrote:

Under “ryg- og forstykke” skriver I i 3. linje: “Når arb måler 3 cm....” Jeg tror ikke I mener 3 cm, men nærmere et tal i trediverne. Kan I oplyse hvilket?

02.07.2020 - 09:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, indtagningerne i siderne måles fra der hvor du har delt arbejdet og siden starter. God fornøjelse!

02.07.2020 - 10:50

country flag Hilde wrote:

Hallo, ich würde das Kleid gerne länger stricken (ca. einen Farbblock zusätzlich). Was würden Sie empfehlen bzgl. Maschenzunahmen? Oder einfach gerade weiter runterstricken? Danke im Voraus!

14.04.2020 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Hilde, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden , dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.04.2020 - 07:49

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