DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS Extra 0-1223
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-210
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
To fit foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
Sock height (folded) : approx. 9 - 10 - 10 cm / 3½"-4"-4''
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes in color no 0517, medium gray
50 g for all sizes in color no 6273 cerise

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show pattern upside down
from knitting direction. Pattern is sewn on with duplicate stitches.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 4-5-5 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 4-5-5 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before each dec until there are 8-8-10 sts on needle.

DECREASE TIP TOE:
Before marker: K 2 tog. After marker: K 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, top down.
Cast on 39-42-45 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with medium gray. Turn piece and P 1 row from RS. Then join for
knitting in the round and work rib (= K 2/P 1). When piece measures 10-12-12 cm / 4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4", K 1 round while dec 6-7-8 sts evenly by K 2 tog = 33-35-37 sts. Then work 12 rounds in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

Now keep the first 16-18-20 sts for heel and slip the last 17 sts on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot). Continue with stockinette st over heel sts for 5-5½-6 cm / 2''-2 1/4''-2½''. Insert 1 marker mid back on heel between the 2 middle sts. Now work HEEL DECREASE- see explanation above.
After heel dec, pick up 9-10-10 sts along each side of heel and slip the 17 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 43-45-47 sts. Insert 1 marker on each side of the middle 17 sts mid on top of foot. Then work in stockinette st in the round AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side of the 17 sts on top of foot as follows: K the last 2 sts BEFORE first marker on top of foot tog and K the first 2 sts AFTER last marker on top of foot twisted tog. Repeat dec every other round 4-4-5 times in total = 35-37-37 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾'' from marker on heel (approx. 4-4-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-2'' remain until finished measurements). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 18-18-18 sts on top of foot and 17-19-19 sts under foot, insert in addition a mid marker in the middle of the 2 markers on top of foot for placement of the heart. Work in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of both SIDE markers - SEE DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every other round a total of 2-2-3 times and then every round a total of 5-5-4 times = 7-9-9 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Fold the rib outwards. Knit another sock.

HEART HEEL:
Embroider on 1 heart with duplicate stitch with coral according to
diagram A.1 in opposite direction of knitting direction as follows:
Marker on heel is in the middle of 2 sts, sew in one loop of stitch on each side of marker, make first duplicate st 6 st up from marker. Sew entire A.1 on both socks the same way - make sure to avoid tight stitches.

HEART TOE:
Embroider on 1 heart with duplicate stitch with coral according to diagram A.2 in opposite direction of knitting direction as follows: Mid marker on toe is in the middle of 2 sts, sew in one loop of stitch on each side of marker, make first duplicate st 9 st up from end of toe. Sew entire A.2 on both socks the same way - make sure to avoid tight stitches.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.01.2017
New yarn amount: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio 150 g for all sizes in colour no 0517, medium grey

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = no duplicate stitch, only shows st on heel/toe
symbols = duplicate stitches with coral
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-1223

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Wilquin wrote:

Je ne comprends pas pour la broderie : sens opposé à celui du tricot ? Que faut il comprendre ?

15.01.2024 - 13:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Wilquin, les chaussettes se tricotent de haut en bas mais, dans le diagramme, on montre le coeur "de bas en haut", donc en sens opposé au sens dans lequel on a tricoté les chaussettes. Bon tricot!

15.01.2024 - 16:17

country flag Lisa Holand wrote:

Jeg brukte under 2 nøster ved å strikke minste str med litt løsere fasthet, samt med lengde mål fra str 38/40 for å passe til meg som bruker 39. Forkortet også vr bord med ca 3 cm.

17.07.2022 - 13:33

country flag Martin wrote:

Bonjour, les chaussettes sont-elles bien solides avec cette laine ? Merci.

07.11.2021 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Martin, pour des chaussettes plus résistantes, vous pouvez remplacer 1 fil DROPS Nepal par 2 fils DROPS Fabel, essayez notre convertisseur pour la nouvelle quantité nécessaire. Bon tricot!

08.11.2021 - 07:56

country flag Hetty Stok wrote:

I have an ongoing problem when I knit socks. When I have done knitting over the 18 heel stitches, and I have picked up the 10 stitches along each side, the stitches I pick up are very loose. The looseness is not at either end of these picked up stitches. I have no hole appearing at the ‘V’, but it is a line of loose stitches. Is there a way to avoid this? I am wondering if it would help if I did not knit the end stitches of the knit rows in the section of 18 heel stitches?

26.04.2020 - 15:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Stok, after you have worked in stocking stitch for 5.5 cm over the 18 sts for heel, you work heel decrease as explained at the beg of the pattern (= 8 sts remain), then work 1 round over the sts on needle + picking up stitches along the left side of heel + working sts from upper foot + picking up sts along the right side of heel. This video might help you to visualize how to do. Happy knitting!

27.04.2020 - 10:03

country flag Lucie wrote:

Bonjour, Comment parvenir à ajouter dans mes favoris svp? Je suis bien sur la page du modèle mais je n'ai pas l'option ajouter à mes favoris. Pourtant je suis abonnée à la new letter. Où se trouve cette option svp? Merci et bonne journée en provenance du Québec!

20.12.2019 - 22:57

Lucie answered:

Désolée pour le dérangement....je viens de voir le coeur.... :-) Cela a bien fonctionné...bien sûr! :-) Quand on prend le temps lire et de bien regarder on trouve! :-) Depuis le temps que je me ''régale'' avec vos modèles...comment ai-je pu être aussi aveugle... Tout est tellement bien fait, bien expliqué, vous êtes ma référence en matière de tricot. Bravo! Passez un bon temps des Fêtes!

20.12.2019 - 23:05

country flag Reina wrote:

Bonjour!! Je suis débutante . J'aimerais savoir pour la taille 38-40,je réparti comment mes mailles sur mes 3 broches. Je suis pas habitué de lire des patrons . Merci.

19.05.2019 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Reina, divisez votre nombre de mailles par 3 et répartissez-les ainsi sur chacune des 3 aiguilles, soit par ex 13 m x 3 aiguilles en taille 35/37, 14 m x 3 aiguilles en taille 38/40 et 15 m x 3 aiguilles en taille 41/43. Bon tricot!

20.05.2019 - 12:35

country flag Céline wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse ! Je vais suivre votre conseil 😊

25.04.2019 - 03:08

country flag Céline wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse ! Je vais suivre votre conseil 😊

24.04.2019 - 22:50

country flag Céline wrote:

Si je monte 42 mailles sur 4 broches, je n’arrive pas facilement à faire mes côtes 2 endroits - 1 envers on dirait qu’elles décalent. Avez-vous un truc pour moi ou puis-je monter 44 mailles sans déranger le reste du patron ? Merci de m’aider !

17.04.2019 - 03:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, vous pouvez répartir les 42 mailles sur les 4 aiguilles de différentes façons, par ex: 10 m sur la 1ère aig, 11 m sur la 2ème aig, 10 m sur la 3ème aig, 11 m sur la 4ème aig. Marquez bien le début du tour et tricotez (2 m end/1 m env tout le tour soit 14 fois au total. Au changement d'aiguilles, veillez à ce que le motif continue bien pour que les côtes soient toujours 2 m end/1 m env. Bon tricot!

23.04.2019 - 11:03

country flag Céline Ledoux wrote:

Bonjour J’aimerais savoir si ce modèle, lorsque vous dites s tricote en rond, se tricote sur 3 aiguilles doubles pointes ou sur 4 aiguilles avec un cinquième pour tricoter. Merci et félicitations, votre site est incroyable.

24.03.2019 - 19:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline! Il vous faut 5 aiguilles doubles pointes (les mailles se trouvent sur 4 aiguilles et un cinquième aiguille est pour tricoter). Bon tricot!

25.03.2019 - 08:29