DROPS Extra / 0-1223

Heart Dance by DROPS Design

DROPS Valentine: Knitted DROPS socks with hearts in "Nepal".

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-210
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
To fit foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
Sock height (folded) : approx. 9 - 10 - 10 cm / 3½"-4"-4''
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes in color no 0517, medium gray
50 g for all sizes in color no 8909, coral

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show pattern upside down
from knitting direction. Pattern is sewn on with duplicate stitches.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 4-5-5 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 4-5-5 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before each dec until there are 8-8-10 sts on needle.

DECREASE TIP TOE:
Before marker: K 2 tog. After marker: K 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).
----------------------------------------------------------

SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, top down.
Cast on 39-42-45 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with medium gray. Turn piece and P 1 row from RS. Then join for
knitting in the round and work rib (= K 2/P 1). When piece measures 10-12-12 cm / 4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4", K 1 round while dec 6-7-8 sts evenly by K 2 tog = 33-35-37 sts. Then work 12 rounds in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

Now keep the first 16-18-20 sts for heel and slip the last 17 sts on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot). Continue with stockinette st over heel sts for 5-5½-6 cm / 2''-2 1/4''-2½''. Insert 1 marker mid back on heel between the 2 middle sts. Now work HEEL DECREASE- see explanation above.
After heel dec, pick up 9-10-10 sts along each side of heel and slip the 17 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 43-45-47 sts. Insert 1 marker on each side of the middle 17 sts mid on top of foot. Then work in stockinette st in the round AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side of the 17 sts on top of foot as follows: K the last 2 sts BEFORE first marker on top of foot tog and K the first 2 sts AFTER last marker on top of foot twisted tog. Repeat dec every other round 4-4-5 times in total = 35-37-37 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾'' from marker on heel (approx. 4-4-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-2'' remain until finished measurements). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 18-18-18 sts on top of foot and 17-19-19 sts under foot, insert in addition a mid marker in the middle of the 2 markers on top of foot for placement of the heart. Work in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of both SIDE markers - SEE DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every other round a total of 2-2-3 times and then every round a total of 5-5-4 times = 7-9-9 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Fold the rib outwards. Knit another sock.

HEART HEEL:
Embroider on 1 heart with duplicate stitch with coral according to
diagram A.1 in opposite direction of knitting direction as follows:
Marker on heel is in the middle of 2 sts, sew in one loop of stitch on each side of marker, make first duplicate st 6 st up from marker. Sew entire A.1 on both socks the same way - make sure to avoid tight stitches.

HEART TOE:
Embroider on 1 heart with duplicate stitch with coral according to diagram A.2 in opposite direction of knitting direction as follows: Mid marker on toe is in the middle of 2 sts, sew in one loop of stitch on each side of marker, make first duplicate st 9 st up from end of toe. Sew entire A.2 on both socks the same way - make sure to avoid tight stitches.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.01.2017
New yarn amount: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio 150 g for all sizes in colour no 0517, medium grey

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= no duplicate stitch, only shows st on heel/toe
= duplicate stitches with coral

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1223) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Hetty Stok 26.04.2020 - 15:09:

I have an ongoing problem when I knit socks. When I have done knitting over the 18 heel stitches, and I have picked up the 10 stitches along each side, the stitches I pick up are very loose. The looseness is not at either end of these picked up stitches. I have no hole appearing at the ‘V’, but it is a line of loose stitches. Is there a way to avoid this? I am wondering if it would help if I did not knit the end stitches of the knit rows in the section of 18 heel stitches?

DROPS Design 27.04.2020 kl. 10:03:

Dear Mrs Stok, after you have worked in stocking stitch for 5.5 cm over the 18 sts for heel, you work heel decrease as explained at the beg of the pattern (= 8 sts remain), then work 1 round over the sts on needle + picking up stitches along the left side of heel + working sts from upper foot + picking up sts along the right side of heel. This video might help you to visualize how to do. Happy knitting!

Lucie 20.12.2019 - 22:57:

Bonjour, Comment parvenir à ajouter dans mes favoris svp? Je suis bien sur la page du modèle mais je n'ai pas l'option ajouter à mes favoris. Pourtant je suis abonnée à la new letter. Où se trouve cette option svp? Merci et bonne journée en provenance du Québec!

Lucie 20.12.2019 kl. 23:05:

Désolée pour le dérangement....je viens de voir le coeur.... :-) Cela a bien fonctionné...bien sûr! :-) Quand on prend le temps lire et de bien regarder on trouve! :-) Depuis le temps que je me ''régale'' avec vos modèles...comment ai-je pu être aussi aveugle... Tout est tellement bien fait, bien expliqué, vous êtes ma référence en matière de tricot. Bravo! Passez un bon temps des Fêtes!

Reina 19.05.2019 - 15:10:

Bonjour!! Je suis débutante . J'aimerais savoir pour la taille 38-40,je réparti comment mes mailles sur mes 3 broches. Je suis pas habitué de lire des patrons . Merci.

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 12:35:

Bonjour Reina, divisez votre nombre de mailles par 3 et répartissez-les ainsi sur chacune des 3 aiguilles, soit par ex 13 m x 3 aiguilles en taille 35/37, 14 m x 3 aiguilles en taille 38/40 et 15 m x 3 aiguilles en taille 41/43. Bon tricot!

Céline 25.04.2019 - 03:08:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse ! Je vais suivre votre conseil 😊

Céline 24.04.2019 - 22:50:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse ! Je vais suivre votre conseil 😊

Céline 17.04.2019 - 03:46:

Si je monte 42 mailles sur 4 broches, je n’arrive pas facilement à faire mes côtes 2 endroits - 1 envers on dirait qu’elles décalent. Avez-vous un truc pour moi ou puis-je monter 44 mailles sans déranger le reste du patron ? Merci de m’aider !

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 11:03:

Bonjour Céline, vous pouvez répartir les 42 mailles sur les 4 aiguilles de différentes façons, par ex: 10 m sur la 1ère aig, 11 m sur la 2ème aig, 10 m sur la 3ème aig, 11 m sur la 4ème aig. Marquez bien le début du tour et tricotez (2 m end/1 m env tout le tour soit 14 fois au total. Au changement d'aiguilles, veillez à ce que le motif continue bien pour que les côtes soient toujours 2 m end/1 m env. Bon tricot!

Céline Ledoux 24.03.2019 - 19:32:

Bonjour J’aimerais savoir si ce modèle, lorsque vous dites s tricote en rond, se tricote sur 3 aiguilles doubles pointes ou sur 4 aiguilles avec un cinquième pour tricoter. Merci et félicitations, votre site est incroyable.

DROPS Design 25.03.2019 kl. 08:29:

Bonjour Céline! Il vous faut 5 aiguilles doubles pointes (les mailles se trouvent sur 4 aiguilles et un cinquième aiguille est pour tricoter). Bon tricot!

Maria Flora 24.11.2018 - 11:09:

Sto lavorando con un mini circolare da 30 cm. Quando arrivo verso la punta posso lavorarla con 2 mini circolari o con il magic Loop su un ferro più lungo? Il set di ferri a 2 punte non l'ho mai usato e in verità non so manco se riuscirò ad usarlo. Grazie! 🤗

DROPS Design 24.11.2018 kl. 16:30:

Buongiorno Maria Flora. Può usare i 2 mini circolari o il magic loop a seconda di come si trova più a suo agio. Buon lavoro!

Kristine 14.11.2018 - 18:55:

Etter vrangborden og én omgang hvor man strikker glattstrikk og feller masker så står det at man skal strikke 12 omg glattstrikk før man begynner å strikke hæl. Jeg gjorde dette og avstanden fra slutten på vrangborden til hælen ble mye kortere enn på bildet. Er det meningen at det skal stå 12 cm? Eller noe annet?

DROPS Design 15.11.2018 kl. 09:32:

Hei Kristine. Det stemmer at du strikker 12 omganger glattstrikk før du strikker hælfelling (denne går jo også over flere centimeter). Om du ser på bildet, kan du set at det er 12 omganger før kilen i siden av foten begynner - der er der hælfellingen begynner. Husk at ifølge opskriften skal strikkefastheden være 22 pinde på 10 cm i højden. God fornøyelse.

Loredana 21.07.2018 - 11:02:

Ciao, vorrei sapere se questo modello si può realizzare anche con i ferri circolari corti (come quelli che si usano per le maniche). Grazie mille! Lory

DROPS Design 21.07.2018 kl. 14:35:

Buongiorno Loredana, può usare i ferri circolari corti, ma quando farà le diminuzioni, dovrà passare ai ferri a doppia punta. Buon lavoro!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-1223

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.