DROPS / 168 / 18

Sailing Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with rib and vent in the side 1 strand “Alpaca” and 2 strands “Kid-Silk”. Size S-XXXL.

  • Sailing Cardigan / DROPS 168-18 - Knitted DROPS jacket with rib and vent in the side 1 strand “Alpaca” and 2 strands “Kid-Silk”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no z-742
Yarn group A + A + A or D
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-250 g color no 6205, light blue
200-200-200-250-250-250 g color no 101, white
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-75-100-100-100 color no 08, gray blue
100-100-100-100-125-125 g color no 07, light steel blue
75-75-75-100-100-100 g color no 01, off white
NOTE: Garment worked in one color = 200-200-225-250-250-275 g Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and 300-300-350-350-400-400 g Alpaca.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') size 7 mm / US 10.75 - or size needed to get 13 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 - for rib and garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 6 pieces for all sizes

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 87.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

DOUBLE YARN TIP:
Use yarn from both inside and outside of the ball.

STRIPES:
All stripes are worked with 1 strand Alpaca + 2 strands Kid-slik (= 3 strands) – READ DOUBLE YARN TIP.
STRIPE 1: 1 strand Alpaca light blue + 2 strands Kid-Silk gray blue.
STRIPE 2: 1 strand Alpaca light blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk gray blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue.
STRIPE 3: 1 strand Alpaca light blue + 2 strands Kid-Silk light steel blue.
STRIPE 4: 1 strand Alpaca light blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk off white.
STRIPE 5: 1 strand Alpaca white + 1 strand Kid-Silk gray blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue.
STRIPE 6: 1 strand Alpaca light blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk off white.
STRIPE 7: 1 strand Alpaca white + 1 strand Kid-Silk gray blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue.
STRIPE 8: 1 strand Alpaca white + 2 strands Kid-Silk light steel blue.
STRIPE 9: 1 strand Alpaca white + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk off white.
STRIPE 10: 1 strand Alpaca white + 2 strands Kid-Silk off white. NOTE: Work this stripe until finished measurements.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of YO instead of front) to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 20, 27, 34, 41, 48 and 55 cm
SIZE M: 20, 28, 36, 43, 50 and 57 cm
SIZE L: 20, 28, 36, 44, 51 and 59 cm
SIZE XL: 20, 28, 36, 44, 52 and 60 cm
SIZE XXL: 21, 29, 37, 45, 53 and 61 cm
SIZE XXXL: 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 and 63 cm
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JACKET:
Worked in parts that are sewn tog when finished. Work entire piece in STRIPES - see explanation above. READ DOUBLE YARN TIP.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 64-70-74-82-90-98 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand light blue Alpaca and 2 strands gray blue Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75. On next row (= RS) continue with STRIPE 1 - see explanation above, and work in stockinette st with 3 sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
When piece measures 8-9-9-9-9-10 cm / 3"-3½"-3½"-3½"-3½"-4'', work STRIPE 2.
When piece measures 16-17-17-18-18-19 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7"-7½", work STRIPE 3.
When piece measures 20 cm / 8'' in all sizes, cast on 1 new st at the end of the next 2 rows (marks vent) = 66-72-76-84-92-100 sts.
Continue with 4 rows in stockinette st inside 4 sts in garter st in each side. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm / 9''-9½''-9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11'', work 6 rows with STRIPE 4, 2 rows with STRIPE 5 and 2 rows with STRIPE 6. Then work STRIPE 7.
When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm / 14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½'', work STRIPE 8.
When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4'', work STRIPE 9.
When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm / 20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''-22'', work STRIPE 10 and at beg of the next 2 rows bind off 3-3-2-2-2-2 sts for armholes, AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-0-0-2-1-3 sts evenly over sts in stockinette st (this is done so that rib at the top of jacket fits) = 60-66-72-78-87-93 sts. Continue to work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K 1, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib until finished measurements. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'', bind off the middle 24-24-24-24-27-27 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck, bind off 1 st = 17-20-23-26-29-32 sts remain on shoulder. Work last st towards the neck in garter st (i.e. there is 1 st K inside 1 edge st in garter st in the neck). When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm / 25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''-29½'', work 1 ridge over all sts. Bind off. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 36-39-41-45-49-53 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand light blue Alpaca and 2 strands gray blue Kid-Silk(= 3 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75. On next row (= RS) continue with STRIPE 1 - see explanation above, and work as follows: Work 4 band sts in garter st, stockinette st over the next 29-32-34-38-42-46 sts, 3 sts in garter st.
When piece measures 8-9-9-9-9-10 cm / 3"-3½"-3½"-3½"-3½"-4'', work STRIPE 2.
When piece measures 16-17-17-18-18-19 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7"-7½", work STRIPE 3.
When piece measures 20 cm / 8'' in all sizes, cast on 1 new st at the end of row (marks vent) = 37-40-42-46-50-54 sts. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! Continue with 4 rows in stockinette st inside 4 band sts in garter st and 4 sts in garter st in each side. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in the side.
When piece measures 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm / 9''-9½''-9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11'', work 6 rows with STRIPE 4, 2 rows with STRIPE 5 and 2 rows with STRIPE 6. Then work STRIPE 7.
When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm / 14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½'', work STRIPE 8.
When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4'', work STRIPE 9.
When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm / 20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''-22'', work STRIPE 10 until finished measurements and at beg of next row from WS bind off 3-3-2-2-2-2 sts for armhole, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1-1-1-2-0-1 sts evenly over sts in stockinette st (this is done so that rib at the top of jacket fits) = 33-36-39-42-48-51 sts. Continue to work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K 1, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib until finished measurements. When piece measures 57-59-60-62-63-65 cm / 22½"-23 1/4"-23½"-24½"-24 3/4"-25½", slip the first 9-9-9-9-12-12 sts on a stitch holder for neck. Then bind off sts on every row from neck as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 17-20-23-26-29-32 sts remain for shoulder. Work last st towards the neck in garter st (i.e. there is 1 st K inside 1 edge st in garter st in the neck). When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm / 25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''-29½'', work 1 ridge over all sts. Bind off. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. Do not dec for buttonholes on left band.

SLEEVES:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle in stripes.
Cast on 30-30-30-33-33-36 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand light blue Alpaca and 2 strands gray blue Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). P 1 row with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. Work next row as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 1, * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains on needle. 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this until rib measures 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75. Continue in stockinette st with 1 edge sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'' in all sizes, work STRIPE 2 and inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 13-7½-6-6-4½-4½ cm / 5"-2 7/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-1 3/4"-1 3/4" 3-5-6-6-7-7 more times = 38-42-44-47-49-52 sts. AT THE SAME TIME work stripes as follows:
When piece measures 13-13-13-13-13-12 cm / 5"-5"-5"-5"-5"-4 3/4", work STRIPE 3.
When piece measures 19-19-19-19-18-17 cm / 7½"-7½"-7½"-7½"-7"-6 3/4", work 6 rows with STRIPE 4, 2 rows with STRIPE 5 and 2 rows with STRIPE 6. Then work STRIPE 7.
When piece measures 32-32-32-31-30-29 cm / 12½"-12½"-12½"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11½", work STRIPE 8.
When piece measures 38-38-37-36-35-34 cm / 15"-15"-14½"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13½", work STRIPE 9.
When piece measures 44-43-42-41-39-39 cm / 17 1/4"-17"-16½"-16"-15 1/4"-15 1/4", work STRIPE 10.
bind off when sleeve measures 50-48-47-46-43-42 cm / 19 3/4"-19"-18½"-18"-17"-16½". Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Assemble with Alpaca white. Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew sleeves to body inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st in garter st down to vent. Sew the buttons on to left band.

NECK EDGE:
Work with 1 strand white Alpaca + 2 strands off white Kid-Silk (= 3 strands).
Pick up from RS approx. 70-80 sts around neck opening incl sts on stitch holders on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. Work a rolling edge by working 3 rows in stockinette st. Bind off with K from RS. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Patricia 17.01.2019 - 18:50:

Bonjour, je pense qu'il y a un problème d'explication pour les manches les dimensions sont à l'envers de la plus grande taille à la plus petite en principe c'est l'inverse et d'autres parts si la manche doit faire 50 cm pour une taille XXXl il n'est pas possible de faire 7 augmentations tous les 13 cm cela ferait 91 cm cordialement

user icon DROPS Design 18.01.2019 kl. 08:22:

Bonjour Patricia, les manches sont plus courtes dans les grandes tailles car les épaules et l'encolure sont plus larges. Ainsi, vous augmentez à 7 cm tous les 4,5 cm = les augmentations sont terminées à 34 cm de hauteur totale. Vous pouvez volontiers modifier la longueur des manches si vous le souhaitez en vous basant sur les mesures du schéma et à votre convenance. Bon tricot!

country flag Wauthier Fabienne 24.11.2018 - 14:52:

Je voudrai faire ce modèle 168-18 dans les coloris gris, quelle laines dois-je prendre pour avoir un beau dégradé ?

user icon DROPS Design 26.11.2018 kl. 08:22:

Bonjour Mme Wauthier, pour toute aide dans le choix des couleurs, contactez votre magasin DROPS (même par mail ou téléphone), il saura vous aider en fonction de ce que vous recherchez comme effet. Bon tricot!

country flag Eva Nielsen 16.09.2018 - 21:23:

Kan jeg strikke den i 1 tråd air og 1 tråd kid Silk

country flag Anna-Karin Allansson 04.09.2016 - 21:51:

Ska det bara ökas 3 ggr på ärmen i storlek small?

country flag Sandra 03.04.2016 - 09:41:

Hallo, bij het insteken lukt het niet de 1 kant wel maar dan zit ik in de knoop de rechtse kant en de kraag kunt u mij helpen

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2016 kl. 13:55:

Hoi Sandra. Bedoel je steken opnemen voor de halsrand? Je kan ook deze video bekijken:

country flag Dorothee Häußge 31.01.2016 - 07:51:

Sehr schön! Ich würde es early morningnennen

country flag Towa Jordano 13.12.2015 - 05:15:

Väldigt snygg färgkombination. En kofta för året runt. Klassisk stil.

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