DROPS / 168 / 2

Shades of Sky by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a square with wave pattern , worked top down in 1 strand ”Alpaca” and 2 strands ”Kid-Silk”. Size S-XXXL.

  • Shades of Sky / DROPS 168-2 - Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a square with wave pattern , worked top down in 1 strand ”Alpaca” and 2 strands ”Kid-Silk”. Size S-XXXL.
  • Shades of Sky / DROPS 168-2 - Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a square with wave pattern , worked top down in 1 strand ”Alpaca” and 2 strands ”Kid-Silk”. Size S-XXXL.
  • Shades of Sky / DROPS 168-2 - Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a square with wave pattern , worked top down in 1 strand ”Alpaca” and 2 strands ”Kid-Silk”. Size S-XXXL.
  • Shades of Sky / DROPS 168-2 - Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a square with wave pattern , worked top down in 1 strand ”Alpaca” and 2 strands ”Kid-Silk”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no z-735
Yarn group A + A + A or D
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Size: S - M/L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-150-150-200-200 g color no 6205, light blue
200-200-250-250-250 g color no 100, off white
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-100-100-125-125 g color no 08, gray blue
75-75-100-100-100 g color no 07, light steel blue
100-100-125-125-150 g color no 01, off white
NOTE: Garment worked in one color = 250-300-300-350-400 g Alpaca (= 1 strand) and 200-250-250-275-300 g Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) = 3 strands in total.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 – or size needed to get 14 sts x 16 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand Alpaca and 2 strands Kid-Silk = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), and 1 repetition A.1 = 11 cm / 4 3/8'' in width x 4 cm / 1½'' vertically with 1 strand Alpaca and 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 7 mm / US 10.75 – for bind-off.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 80.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. See diagram for correct size. Diagrams show all rows seen from RS.

STRIPES:
All stripes are worked with 1 strand Alpaca + 2 strands Kid-slik (= 3 strands).
STRIPE 1: Work 6 repetitions of A.1b and A.2b vertically with 1 strand Alpaca off white + 2 strands Kid-Silk off white.
Then work 2 repetitions vertically of pattern A.1b and A.2b in each of the stripes below.
STRIPE 2: 1 strand Alpaca off white + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk off white.
STRIPE 3: 1 strand Alpaca off white + 2 strands Kid-Silk light steel blue.
STRIPE 4: 1 strand Alpaca off white + 1 strand Kid-Silk gray blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue.
STRIPE 5: 1 strand Alpaca off white + 2 strands Kid-Silk gray blue.
STRIPE 6: 1 strand Alpaca light blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk gray blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue.
STRIPE 7: 1 strand Alpaca light blue + 2 strands Kid-Silk gray blue. When all stripes have been worked vertically, continue with 7th stripe until finished measurements.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog.
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JACKET:
Work entire jacket back and forth on circular needle with 1 strand Alpaca + 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands).

Loosely cast on 215-221-229-239-245 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand Alpaca off white and 2 strands Kid-Silk off white(= 3 strands). Work as follows on 1st row (= RS): 3-3-4-6-6 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, A.1 (= 19 sts on first row) 4 times in width, A.2 (find diagram for correct size) 3 times in width, A.1 4 times in width, 3-3-4-6-6 sts in garter st. When 1st row has been worked, there are 193-199-207-217-223 sts on needle. Work the remaining rows in A.1a and A.2a.
Now work STRIPES - see explanation above (beg with 1st STRIPE) and pattern as follows:
3 sts in garter st, 0-0-1-3-3 sts in stockinette st, A.1b (= 17 sts) 4 times in width, A.2b (find diagram for correct size) 3 times in width, A.1b 4 times in width, 0-0-1-3-3 sts in stockinette st, 3 sts in garter st. NOTE: On 6th row in A.1b P the 0-0-1-3-3 sts inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side. Repeat A.1b and A.2b vertically. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
When piece measures 15-17-19-20-21 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8"-8 1/4", adjust so that next row is from RS and work as follows: Work as before over the first 71-71-72-74-74 sts, cast on 1 st = 72-72-73-75-75 sts for left front piece. Slip the remaining 122-128-135-143-149 sts on needle on a stitch holder without working them first.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
NOTE: Work the new st cast on in garter st. Continue back and forth with pattern and stripes as before over the 72-72-73-75-75 sts until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4" from the new st cast on (= armhole) – ADJUST SO THAT NEXT ROW IS WORKED FROM WS. On next row from WS, bind off the first st (= st that was cast on) = 71-71-72-74-73 sts. Work the rest of row. Cut the yarn. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 1 new st on needle, then work from RS the first 51-57-63-69-75 sts from stitch holder on to needle, cast on 1 st = 53-59-65-71-77 sts for back piece. (71-71-72-74-74 sts remain on stitch holder for right front piece.) Now continue back and forth with pattern and stripes over sts on back piece. NOTE: Work the outermost st in each side in garter st. When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4" from the new st cast on (= armhole) - ADJUST ACCORDING TO PATTERN ON LEFT FRONT PIECE, BUT STOP 2 ROW EARIER IN PATTERN - work as follows: On the next 2 rows bind off the outermost st in each side (= st cast on in each side of back piece) = 51-57-63-69-75 sts. Cut the yarn. Put all sts from back piece on a stitch holder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 1 new st on circular needle, and work from RS the 71-71-72-74-74 sts from stitch holder on to needle = 72-72-73-75-75 sts for right front piece. Turn and work pattern from WS. NOTE: Work the new sts cast on in garter st. Continue with pattern and stripes as before until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4" from the new st cast on (= armhole) - ADJUST ACCORDING TO PATTERN ON LEFT FRONT PIECE, BUT STOP 2 ROW EARIER IN PATTERN. On next row from RS, bind off the first st (= st that was cast on) = 71-71-72-74-74 sts. Work 1 row from WS. Cut the yarn.

Now work front pieces and back piece tog as follows: NOTE: Continue pattern and stripes as before with 3 sts in garter st in each side.
Beg from RS and work the 71-71-72-74-74 sts from left front piece, then work the 51-57-63-69-75 sts from back piece on to needle and finally work the 71-71-72-74-74 sts from right front piece on to needle = 193-199-207-217-223 sts. Continue back and forth with pattern and stripes until all the 7 stripes have been worked vertically. The piece now measures approx. 64 cm / 25 1/4'' in all sizes. Now continue stripe 7 until finished measurements.

When piece measures 72-76-78-80-82 cm / 28½"-30"-30 3/4"-31½"-32 1/4" - adjust after one whole repetition of A.1b and A.2b vertically - work A.1c over A.1b, and A.2c (find diagram for correct size) over A.2b.
When entire A.1c and A.2c have been worked vertically there are 215-221-229-239-245 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 and LOOSELY bind off. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down, in stripes. NOTE: Beg on 2nd stripe.
Cast on 49-53-55-59-61 sts with 1 strand Alpaca off white + 1 strand Kid-Silk light steel blue + 1 strand Kid-Silk off white (= 3 strands) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. Work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts. On next row (= RS) work pattern as follows: Work 1 edge st in garter st, 15-17-18-20-21 sts in stockinette st, A.1b (= 17 sts), 15-17-18-20-21 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec approx. every 4½-4-3½-3-3 cm / 1 3/4"-1½"-1 1/4"-1"-1" 10-11-12-13-13 more times = 27-29-29-31-33 sts. When piece measures 53-53-51-51-50 cm / 21"-21"-20"-20"-19 3/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), adjust after one whole repetition vertically, work 2 ridges. LOOSELY bind off.
Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Assemble with 1 strand Alpaca off white and 1 strand Kid-Silk gray blue (= 2 strands). Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st in garter st on body and in one and one st in cast-on edge on sleeve. Sew underarm seams inside one edge st in garter st. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next row P the YOs (= holes)
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next row K YO twisted (= not holes)
symbols = Knitting direction
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Katerina 24.10.2020 - 19:41:

Good evening\r\nI am planning on working the pattern using one colour (9021), size S= 250g Alpaca (= 1 strand) and 200-g Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) = 3 strands in total. What COLOURS of Kid silk should Iget? or just one colour? how do I work the stripes ? Thank you very much.

user icon DROPS Design 26.10.2020 kl. 13:14:

Dear Katerina, you are welcome to contact your DROPS store for any assistance choosing a colour - work the stripes as explained in the pattern or adjust yours as you like them to be - we are unfortunately not able to adjust each of our pattern to each single request - thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

country flag Lillie 04.05.2018 - 03:47:

I\'m lost on A1 the first 6 stitches are garter how do we end with 3 stitches for garter in A2b?

user icon DROPS Design 04.05.2018 kl. 09:10:

Dear Lillie, when working b-sections in diagram, work: 6 sts in garter st, 0-1-3 sts in stocking st (see size), repeat A.1b a total of 4 times in width, then repeat A.2b a total of 3 times in width, repeat then A.1b a total of 4 times in width and finish with 0-1-3 sts in stocking st (see size) and 6 sts in garter st. When working row 6 in A.1b purl the 1-3 sts inside the 6 sts in garter st on each side. Happy knitting!

country flag Rita 06.09.2016 - 10:40:

Avevo considerato di usare due capi alpaca di un solo colore. Ho notato che molti capi in alpaca sono lavorati con il kid silk e mi chiedevo se fosse per dare la giusta tensione e vestibilità che non con la sola alpaca.

user icon DROPS Design 06.09.2016 kl. 11:00:

Buongiorno Rita, questo modello richiede 3 capi di filato del gruppo A come Alpaca o 1 capo di un filato del gruppo D: con due capi di Alpaca potrebbe non ottenere il campione indicato. Kid-Silk viene utilizzata per alleggerire il lavoro e conferire maggiore sofficità e morbidezza, e viene utilizzata spesso in combinazione con Alpaca. Buon lavoro!

country flag Rita 06.09.2016 - 09:08:

Vorrei sapere se questo capo può essere realizzato solo con il filato alpaca. Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 06.09.2016 kl. 09:59:

Buongiorno Rita. Dovrebbe verificare di ottenere il campione indicato lavorando con 3 capi di alpaca. Inoltre dovrebbe scegliere un ulteriore colore che consenta di ottenere le sfumature indicate. Il capo potrebbe risultare più pesante che non lavorato con 1 filo di Alpaca e 2 di Kid Silk. Buon lavoro!

country flag Jennifer Francis 27.01.2016 - 14:12:

Hello i still don't get it what would the first row look like if i am knitting the m/l . sorry kindest regards jennifer

country flag Jennifer Francis 27.01.2016 - 09:45:

Hello,i am planning on knitting design pattern number z-735 and a little UN share how the charts reads. I would be knitting a size m, do i just work from the selected chart size that would be M or are there two charts .sorry not sure . dose this mean for the first row size m/l 221 st , back garter st 3,chart A1. 19 REP 4TIMES then A2 size m/l 21st 3times then back to A1. chart for 19st rep 4time then garter st 3 end of row. kindest regards in advance Jennifer

user icon DROPS Design 27.01.2016 kl. 10:39:

Dear Mrs Francis, diag. A1 is the same for all sizes, but diag. A.2 has to be worked differently depending on your size, in size M, you will work diagram A.2 M/L (this diagram works for these both sizes). Happy knitting!

Laura 26.01.2016 - 11:32:

This is gorgeous! Can you pls advise some alternative yarns?

user icon DROPS Design 26.01.2016 kl. 15:52:

Dear Laura, please click here for alternative yarns, and remember your DROPS store will help you with any personnal assistance even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

country flag Radka Rinkova 12.01.2016 - 09:51:

Mořska pěna - nádherný přehoz

country flag José 03.01.2016 - 20:06:

Mooi patroon en prachtig kleurverloop.

country flag Sophia 03.01.2016 - 13:13:

EXCELLENT !!!!!!can we have the pattern?

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