DROPS / 166 / 24

Starry Night by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and Nordic pattern, worked top down and hat with Nordic pattern in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-768
Yarn group B
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JACKET:

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 53, anthracite
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color no 72, light pearl gray
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color no 40, light old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

HAT:
Size: One-size
Head circumference: approx. 54/57 cm / 21"/22½''
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50 g in the following colors:
color no 40, light old pink
color no 53, anthracite
color no 72, light pearl gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rounds pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern on yoke, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP-1:
All inc are done from RS. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round P YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Inc on each side of marker: All inc are done from RS as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of marker in every transition between sleeves and body. All inc are done from RS as follows:
Work until 1 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 2 sts (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round P YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
Dec on each side of marker. All dec are done from RS as follows: Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = work until 4 sts remain on needle (seen from RS), make 1 YO, K 2 tog
and finish with K 2.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from cast-on edge):
SIZE S: 2, 10, 18, 27, 36, 45 and 54 cm /
3/4",4",7",10½",14 1/4",17 3/4",21 1/4".
SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm /
3/4",4½",8",11½",15",18½",22''
SIZE L: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 48 and 58 cm /
3/4",4½",8",11½",15",19",22 3/4".
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 51 and 60 cm /
3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13½",16½",20",23½''.
SIZE XXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 51 and 60 cm /
3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13½",16½",20",23½''.
SIZE XXXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 35, 49, 53 and 62 cm /
3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13 3/4",19 1/4",21",24½".
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 110-116-116-118-122-124 sts (includes 6 band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with anthracite. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS with anthracite while inc 3-9-9-19-23-33 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1 (do not inc over band sts) = 113-125-125-137-145-157 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work as follows from WS: 6 band sts in garter st, work A.1 until 7 sts remain, work first st in A.1 and finish with 6 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern and inc on 4th row as shown in diagram (inc also before last st before band so that pattern beg and ends the same inside band in each side) = 26-29-29-32-34-37 sts inc and 139-154-154-169-179-194 sts on needle – REMEMBER KNITTING GAUGE and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above. When A.1 has been worked (finish after a row marked with arrow for correct size), K 1 row from RS with anthracite while inc 2-3-3-4-2-3 sts evenly (do not inc over bands) = 141-157-157-173-181-197 sts. P 1 row from WS with anthracite (work band in garter st). Work next row as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 until 7 sts remain on row (choose diagram for correct size 16-18-18-20-21-23 repetitions of 8 sts), work first st in A.2 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way inside band in each) and finish with 6 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
When diagram A.2 has been worked, there are 269-301-301-333-349-381 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 17-17-17-19-19-19 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½"-7½"-7"½ from cast-on edge.
P1 row from WS, and K 1 row from RS while inc 6-4-4-8-10-2 sts evenly (do not inc over bands) = 275-305-305-341-359-383 sts.
Work next row as follows from WS with anthracite:
Work the first 43-47-49-55-60-65 sts (= right front piece), insert a marker, work the next 57-64-60-66-65-67 sts (= sleeve), insert a marker, work the next 75-83-87-99-109-119 sts (= back piece), insert a marker, work the next 57-64-60-66-65-67 sts (= sleeve), insert a marker, work the remaining 43-47-49-55-60-65 sts (= left front piece).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work next row as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.3 until 11 sts remain on row, work the first 5 sts in A.3 (so that pattern beg and ends the same inside band in each side) and finish with 6 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Repeat inc for raglan every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 3-3-4-3-4-5 times in total – NOTE: Work the inc sts in pattern but always work 1 st on each side of each marker with anthracite.
After inc for raglan there are 299-329-337-365-391-423 sts on row and piece measures approx. 22-22-23-24-25-27 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9½"-9 3/4"-10½" from shoulder.
Now work next row from WS as follows (continue pattern as before): Work the first 46-50-53-58-64-70 sts (= right front piece), slip the next 63-70-68-72-73-77 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new sts on needle (= in the side of body), work the next 81-89-95-105-117-129 sts (= back piece), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new sts on needle (= in the side on body), slip the next 63-70-68-72-73-77 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve) and work the remaining 46-50-53-58-64-70 sts as before (= left front piece).

BODY:
= 189-205-221-241-269-293 sts. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker 50-54-58-63-70-76 sts in from each side (= 89-97-105-115-129-141 sts between markers on back piece). Continue back and forth as before with pattern according to diagram A.3 and 6 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front - NOTE: Continue pattern on yoke - work the sts that do not fit the pattern in the sides of body in anthracite. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2'', dec on each side of marker in the sides of body - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec in each side every 3-3-3-5-6-6 cm / 1"-1"-1"-2"-2½"-2½" a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3 times = 173-189-205-229-257-281 sts - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern
when dec in anthracite. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm / 3 1/8''-3½''-4''-4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8'', finish A.3 and work with anthracite until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18-18-19-21-23-23 cm / 7"-7"-7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9" (piece measures approx. 40-40-42-45-48-50 cm / 15 3/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17 3/4"-19"-19 3/4" from shoulder), inc on each side of markers in the sides of body - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2'' a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3 times = 189-205-221-241-269-293 sts. When piece measures 34-36-37-38-39-39 cm / 13½"-14 1/4"-14½"-15"-15 1/4"-15 1/4" (piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from shoulder), switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 4 ridges and LOOSELY bind off. Jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Continue pattern in the round as before and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new sts at the end of first round = 71-78-78-82-85-89 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new sts (= mid under sleeve) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. NOTE: Continue pattern on yoke - work the sts that do not fit the pattern mid under sleeve in anthracite. When piece measures 2-3-3-3-3-4 cm / 3/4"-1"-1"-1"-1"-1½", dec on each side of marker – REMEMBER DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3-2-2-2-2-1½ cm / 1"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½" a total of 11-14-14-15-16-17 times = 49-50-50-52-53-55 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-4-4-6-6-6 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'', finish A.3 and work with anthracite until finished measurements. Work until piece measures 39-39-39-39-39-37 cm / 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-14½" (2 cm / 3/4'' remain before finished measurements, try the jacket and work to desired length). Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above, LOOSELY bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 41-41-41-41-41-39 cm / 16"-16"-16"-16"-16"-15 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.
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HAT:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.4 to A.6. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

KNITTING TIP:
If you want a shorter hat than measurements in pattern work until 4 cm / 1½'' remain before desired length and dec as explained in pattern.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st on each side of the middle 3 sts in A.5 as shown in diagram. Beg 1 st before A.5, K 2 tog with light pearl gray, work 1 st anthracite, 1 st light pearl gray, 1 st anthracite (= the 3 middle sts in A.5), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1 with light pearl gray, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed.
Cast on 104 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with anthracite. K 1 round, then work rib = K 1/P 1 for 6 rounds. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.4. When A.4 has been worked, piece measures approx. 4½ cm / 1 3/4''. Then work pattern in the round as follows: * Work A.5 (= 5 sts), A.6 (= 21 sts) *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER KNITTING GAUGE AND READ KNITTING TIP. When round marked with arrow in diagram A.6 has been worked, beg dec at the top of hat. Dec 1 st on each side of the middle 3 sts in A.5 - READ DECREASE TIP and see diagram (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec every other round a total of 3 times and then every round 7 times in total = 24 sts remain on needle. K 1 round with anthracite while K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 12 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 24 cm / 9½''.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.11.2016
YOKE: ...REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When diagram A.2 has been worked, there are 269-301-301-333-349-381 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 17-17-17-19-19-19 cm from cast-on edge. P 1 row from WS, and K 1 row from RS while inc 6-4-4-8-10-2 sts evenly in last row (do not inc over bands) = 275-305-305-341-359-383 sts...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= anthracite
= light old pink
= light pearl grey
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row P YO twisted to avoid holes
= K 2 tog with light pearl grey.
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1 with light pearl grey, psso



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 166-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Berit Skogmo 02.12.2019 - 10:36:

Sitter och letar mönster. Vill hitta en nordisk cardigan som stickas runt og klippas upp. Finns några sånna? Och en annan fråga. Går det inte att söka på instruktionsfilmena? (surfar på mobilen) På förhand tack 😊

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 12:13:

Hei Berit! Ja, vi har flere slike koftemodeller, f.eks: DROPS 39-19 , DROPS 50-12 , DROPS 52-6 og DROPS 50-8 . Det er mulig å søke på instruksjonsvideoer, dette er dessverre ikke mulig fra mobil, men det går an å filtrere videoene for å få et mest mulig nøyaktig resultat. Lykke til!

Hanne Gunnertoft 30.12.2016 - 19:34:

Tusind tak for svar. Jeg mente forkanter, kanter på forstykkerne, og ikke firkanter 😊

Hanne Gunnertoft 27.12.2016 - 17:33:

Hej. Jrgvhar opgivet at strikke mønster på vrangpinde. Er istedet startet på jumperen, og tænker att jeg kan sy på maskine og klippe den op foran, og så strikke firkanter på. Er der noget jeg skal være opmærksom på?

DROPS Design 30.12.2016 kl. 12:33:

Hej Hanne. Ja, det forstaar jeg godt ;) Du kan sagtens klippe op (saet 3-5 m ekstra op til dette og strik rundt). Jeg ville saa tage maskerne til stolperne op bagefter og strikke dem naar der er klippet op og daekke kanten fra klippemaskerne med et paent baand paa indersiden. Jeg forstaar ikke hvad du mner med at strikke firkanter paa?

Rian 21.10.2016 - 19:28:

Ben net begonnen aan de pas: tel patroon A2. De 2e regel is parelgrijs, de 3e regel antraciet, de 4e gemengd parelgrijs en antraciet. Maar hoe doe je dat, want je wol parelgrijs zit aan de andere kant van het breiwerk. Moet je steeds dan een nieuwe bol wol aanspreken? Verderop in het A2 patroon kom je soortgelijk situaties tegen. Hopelijk kunnen jullie me helpen.

DROPS Design 24.10.2016 kl. 11:07:

Hoi Rian. Je kan inderdaad met een nieuwe bol beginnen - of je kan de draad knippen en verder gaan met de bol.

Martina 22.04.2016 - 12:01:

Welches Alternativgarn können Sie empfehlen? Es müsste kratzfrei sein und aus derselben Garngruppe kommen...

DROPS Design 22.04.2016 kl. 12:55:

Liebe Martina, unsere Empfehlungen finden Sie unter: Alternative Garne (Garngruppe B). Cotton Merino oder Merino extra fine (nicht zu locker stricken!) wären sicher eine gute kratzfreie Alternative.

Ellen 28.02.2016 - 04:46:

Would there be any reason this could not be knit in the round, adding a steek, then adding a button band?

DROPS Design 29.02.2016 kl. 09:24:

Dear Ellen, you are welcome to adjust pattern to add steek sts and adding the button band on each front piece afterwards. Happy knitting!

Åse Halonen 15.01.2016 - 07:56:

Er det mulig å få brystvidde / overvidde på oppskriftene? Det er ikke bestandig at X og XL osv er lik fra oppskrift til oppskrift, eller fra leverandørene. Det er veldig lett å velge str når f.eks XL = f.eks 112 cm

DROPS Design 19.01.2016 kl. 10:06:

Hej. Längst ner på alla våra oppskrifter hittar du en måleskiss. Lycka till!

Michela Sali 13.11.2015 - 17:13:

Non so usare i ferri circolari, come posso trasformare le spiegazioni per usare i ferri diritti? Grazie

DROPS Design 14.11.2015 kl. 22:13:

Buonasera Michela, per il cardigan non è un problema perchè non viene lavorato in tondo, per cui può utilizzare i ferri dritti, per il cappello la lavorazione richiede l'uso dei ferri circolari e non è molto fattibile con i ferri dritti: potrebbe in alternativa utilizzare il gioco di ferri. Buon lavoro!

Stacey 05.11.2015 - 11:37:

The pattern says start A2 on a RS row and complete A2 which u get 301 sts and then start RS row increase but I counted and their are 35 rows so the next row would be an WS row. So I'm slightly confused ? X

Stacey 05.11.2015 - 09:23:

The pattern says start A2 on a RS row and complete A2 which u get 301 sts and then start RS row increase but I counted and their are 35 rows so the next row would be an WS row. So I'm slightly confused ? X

DROPS Design 05.11.2015 kl. 14:14:

Dear Stacey your question has been forwarded to our Design team. Thank you in advance for your patience.

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