DROPS / 166 / 41

Irish Dove by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern, raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-721
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-250-300 g color no 7120, light gray green
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-125-125 g color no 06, light grayish green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands ) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.11.

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of A.2/A.4. On body inc are shown in pattern A.3 and A.5. Inc on sleeves as follows: Inc with a YO, K YO on next round - to make holes. Inc every other round 23-29-35 times, but K 2 tog after YO at beg of sleeve and before YO at end of sleeve 0-3-7 times (approx. on every 0-10th-5th inc). On this round there are no inc on sleeve but continue eyelet row as before. Inc 23-26-28 sts in total in each side of each sleeve.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
READ THE FIRST SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Cast on 86-86-86 sts on a short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with one strand Alpaca and one strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work A.1. When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, work as follows - from left raglan on back piece: Work A.2 (= 12 sts), A.3 (= 5 sts), A.4 (= 12 sts), (= back piece), 1 YO, work 14 sts in stockinette st, 1 YO (= sleeve), A.2, A.3, A.4 (= front piece), 1 YO, work 14 sts in stockinette st, 1 YO (= sleeve). Continue pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME continuing inc for RAGLAN on sleeve on every other round - see explanation above. Sleeve is worked in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: Work A.2, A.5 A (= 13 sts), A.5 B (= 12 sts) and A.5 C (= 14 sts) A.4, (= back piece), work sleeve, A.2, A.5 A, A.5 B. A.5 C, A.4, (= front piece), work sleeve. Work A.5 1-2-3 times vertically in total. Every time A.5 is worked vertically, work 1 A.5 B more between A.5 A and A.5 C. Work until 1 round remains in A.5 (= 75-87-99 sts on front/back piece and 60-66-70 sts on each sleeve). Work next round as follows (this is last round of A.5): Work 75-87-99 sts (= back piece), slip the next 60-66-70 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10 new sts, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts, work 75-87-99 sts (= front piece), slip the next 60-66-70 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10 new sts, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts = 166-190-218 sts. Yoke measures approx. 21-26-32 cm / 8 1/4"-10 1/4"-12½".

BODY:
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work as follows: A.2, A.6 A (= 13 sts), A.6 B over the next 24-36-48 sts, A.6 C (= 14 sts), A.4, work A.7 over the new 8-8-10 sts under sleeve, A.2, A.6 A, A.6 B over the next 24-36-48 sts, A.6 C, A.4, work A.7 over the new 8-8-10 sts under sleeve. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: A.2, A.8 A (= 14 sts), A.8 B over the next 24-36-38 sts, A.8 C (= 15 sts), A.4, 1 YO, work A.7 over the next 8-8-10 sts, 1 YO, A.2, A.8 A, A.8 B over the next 24-36-48 sts, A.8 C (= 15 sts), A.4, 1 YO, work A.7 over the next 8-8-10 sts, 1 YO. NOTE: On first dec in A.8 beg 1 st before A.8, dec as follow: Slip last st in A.2, K tog the first 2 sts in A.8 A, psso. At the end of A.8 dec as follows: K 3 tog (the last 2 sts from A.8 and the first st from A.4). Last st in A.2 and first st in A.4 are now dec, continue with 11 sts as before in A.2/ A.4 = 162-186-214 sts. On every other round inc 1 st on each side of A.7 with 1 YO, work the inc sts in A.7 – AT THE SAME TIME dec in A.8 (dec are shown in diagram). No of sts is the same the entire time, but no of sts in A.7 inc and no of sts in A.8 dec.

When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: A.2 (= 11 sts), A.9 A (13 sts), A.9 B over the next 12-24-36 sts, A.9 C (= 14 sts), A.4 (= 11 sts), 1 YO, work A.7 over the next 20-20-22 sts, 1 YO, A.2, A.9 A, A.9 B over the next 12-24-36 sts, A.9 C, A.4, 1 YO, work A.7 over the next 20-20-22 sts, 1 YO. Work A.9 1-2-3 times vertically, then work as follows: A.2 (= 11 sts), A.10 (= 27 sts), A.4 (= 11 sts), 1 YO, work A.7 over the next 32-44-58 sts, 1 YO, A.2, A.10, A.4, 1 YO, work A.7 over the next 32-44-58 sts, 1 YO. When A.10 has been worked, 5 sts remain in A.10 and 54-66-80 sts in every A.7. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts over every A.2/A.4, and dec 2-2-6 sts evenly on round = 144-168-192 sts. Work A.11 over all sts 1 time vertically. Bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Piece measures approx. 58-68-80 cm / 22 3/4"-26 3/4"-31½" from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 60-66-70 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Cast on 8-8-10 new sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of these 8-8-10 sts = 68-74-80 sts. Work in stockinette st. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', dec 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat dec every 2-1½-1½ cm / 3/4"-½"-½" 15-16-17 more times = 36-40-44 sts. Continue until piece measures 38-35-31 cm / 152-13 3/4"-12 1/4". Work 2 ridges, AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 4-0-4 sts evenly = 40-40-48 sts. Work A.11 over all sts 1 time vertically. Bind off. Piece measures approx. 44-41-37 cm / 17 1/4"-16"-14½". Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= K 3 tog





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 166-41) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Nadège 21.03.2020 - 10:59:

Bonjour je commence la section A8. Quand on diminue A2 avec A8 et A8 avec A4 doit-on le faire sur les deux sections du premier tour ou seulement sur le premier panneau ?

DROPS Design 23.03.2020 kl. 09:17:

Bonjour Nadège, la première diminution de A.8A et A.8C se fait sur le devant et sur le dos de la même façon. Vous diminuez ensuite comme indiqué dans les diagrammes (et augmentez comme indiqué dans le texte). Bon tricot!

Nadège 12.03.2020 - 21:24:

Bonsoir je viens de terminer a2-a3-a4 (premier paragraphe). Mais maintenant que A2 et A4 sont terminés, comment dois-je faire ? A3 n'est pas terminé pour que je passe au deuxième paragraphe. merci

DROPS Design 13.03.2020 kl. 08:38:

Bonjour Nadège, répétez A.2 et A.4 en hauteur tout en continuant A.3 jusqu'à ce que A.3 soit terminé. Veillez bien à avoir toujours le même nombre de tours entre chaque torsade de A.2 et A.4. Continuez également les augmentations des manches comme avant. Bon tricot!

Nadège 11.03.2020 - 13:25:

Je relis votre explication mais je ne comprends pas comment on peut avoir 16m au 3e rang. On a déjà 14m au 1er rang +2 jetés donc au 2e rang on arrive déjà à 16m +2 jetés. Donc au 3e rang je serai à 18m + 2 jetés.

DROPS Design 11.03.2020 kl. 14:03:

au 1er rang vous avez pour les manches: 1 jeté, 14 m end, 1 jeté - ces jetés sont les augmentations des manches (= au 2ème rang, vous tricotez 16 m end pour la manche (= on n'augmente que tous les 2 tours)); au 3ème rang (= 2ème rang d'augmentations vous avez donc: 1 jeté, 16 m end, 1 jeté soit 18 m au total). Bon tricot!

Nadege 11.03.2020 - 13:09:

Re moi, donc en fait les explication de l'empiècement on a déjà les 4 jetés d'augmentation des manches ? je suis désolée car je ne m'y retrouve pas...

DROPS Design 11.03.2020 kl. 14:01:

Bonjour Nadège, oui tout à fait, autrement dit: A.2 (= 12 m), A.3 (= 1 jeté = augmentation ; 5 m end, 1 jeté = augmentation), A.4 (= 12 m), (= dos), 1 jeté, tricoter 14 m jersey, 1 jeté (= 16 m pour la manche), A.2, A.3 (= 1 jeté = augmentation ; 5 m end, 1 jeté = augmentation, A.4 (= devant), 1 jeté, 14 m jersey, 1 jeté (= 16 m pour la manche). Les jetés au début et à la fin de A.3 vont augmenter le devant/dos et on augmente pour les manches au début/à la fin de la manche. Est-ce plus clair ainsi?

Nadège 11.03.2020 - 08:33:

Bonjour je commence le modèle et j'ai un problème pour le raglan. Premier tour avec motif ok mais le deuxième tour on doit augmenter une maille de chaque côté de l'ensemble a2-a4. Ça veut dire qu'on fait 4 jetés en plus des 4 déjà mentionnés dans l'explication ? Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 11.03.2020 kl. 08:51:

Bonjour Nadège, vous augmentez dans A.3 (puis A.5) et pour le dos et le devant, et, pour les manches, vous augmentez de part et d'autre des mailles des manches = après A.4 du dos + avant A.2 du devant pour la 1ère manche et après A.4 du devant + avant A.2 du dos pour la 2ème manche. Autrement dit, au 3ème tour vous avez 1 jeté, 16 m, 1 jeté, au 5ème tour 1 jeté, 18 m, 1 jeté et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

Sandrine 23.01.2020 - 08:38:

Bonjour, J'aurais souhaité avoir une précision sur ce modèle, lorsque vous dites "À chaque fois que l'on répète A.5 en hauteur, on tricote A.5 B encore 1 fois entre A.5 A et A.5 C". Je tricote la taille L/XL. Je dois répéter A.5 2 fois en hauteur. Est-ce que cela veut dire que je tricote A.5 A à A.5 C, une première fois comme indiqué sur le diagramme et une deuxième fois en tricotant A.5 A, A.5 B, A.5 B, A.5 C ? Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 23.01.2020 kl. 10:06:

Bonjour Sandrine, quand on a tricoté 1 fois A.5 en hauteur, on a suffisamment de mailles entre A.5A et A.5C pour tricoter 1 motif de A.5B en plus entre le A et le C. Autrement dit, quand vous avez tricoté 1 fois les diagrammes en hauteur vous avez fait 1 x A.5B, vous les recommencez de la même façon, mais cette fois, vous aurez 2 x A.5B entre A.5A et A.5C. Bon tricot!

Carla M Zamperetti 12.01.2017 - 09:30:

Salve,vorrei una conferma se ho capito bene: dopo aver lavorato il diagramma 1 si iniziano gli aumenti per i raglan,vorrei sapere quante m si aumentano ogni due ferri:4 oppure 8? e il diagramma 1 è su 12 m,e dice di montare 86 m,ma non dovrebbero essere 84?

DROPS Design 12.01.2017 kl. 09:49:

Buongiorno Carla. Gli aumenti sulle maniche sono in tutto 4 ad ogni giro. Gli aumenti sul davanti/dietro sono compresi nella lavorazione del diagramma A3. Le chiediamo di leggere con attenzione il paragrafo RAGLAN: a seconda della taglia su alcuni giri si inseriscono i gettati, ma si lavorano due maglie insieme a diritto. Il numero delle maglie iniziale è corretto. Buon lavoro!

Carla M Zamperetti 12.01.2017 - 09:20:

La spiegazione dice di cominciare montando 86 m,poi di lavorare il diagramma 1 che è di 12 m,quindi le m dovrebbero essere 84...

DROPS Design 12.01.2017 kl. 09:29:

Buongiorno Carla. Il numero di maglie indicato è corretto. Il diagramma A1 di fatto si lavora su un numero di maglie multiplo di 2. Inoltre con 86 maglie, si imposta correttamente la successiva lavorazione dei diagrammi A.2, A.3 e A.4. Buon lavoro!

Dana Denney 04.01.2016 - 23:57:

Are the charts worked from the bottom up or top down? Thanks! Dana

DROPS Design 05.01.2016 kl. 09:15:

Dear Mrs Denney, start reading diagrams at the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from WS. Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

Evelyne 20.10.2015 - 19:10:

Bonjour, je voudrais utiliser la laine alpaga en double. Pouvez-vous me dire combien il me faudra de laine et avec quelles aiguilles. MErci

DROPS Design 21.10.2015 kl. 09:20:

Bonjour Evelyne, 2 fils groupe A = 1 fil groupe C, vous pouvez donc tricoter avec 2 fils Alpaca et les mêmes aiguilles pour obtenir le bon échantillon (ajustez si nécessaire). Vous trouverez ici les informations nécessaires sur les alternatives et les calculs. Bon tricot!

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