DROPS / 166 / 6

Loch Ness by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with trebles and single crochet in 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Loch Ness / DROPS 166-6 - Crochet DROPS jacket with trebles and single crochet in 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Loch Ness / DROPS 166-6 - Crochet DROPS jacket with trebles and single crochet in 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Loch Ness / DROPS 166-6 - Crochet DROPS jacket with trebles and single crochet in 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no co-017
Yarn group E or C + C
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-750-800 g color no 04, medium gray

Or use:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800-850 g colour no 04, medium grey

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 9 mm / M/13 – or size needed to get 8 dc x 4.5 rows 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Cloud DROPS Cloud
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
At beg of every round/row with sc work 1 ch. Ch does not replace sc.
At beg of every round/row with tr replace first tr with 4 ch.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 sc by working 2 sc tog as follows:
* Insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook = 1 sc dec.

PATTERN:
ROW 1 (= from WS): Work 1 sc in front loop of every st from previous row.
ROW 2 (from RS): Work 1 tr in back loop of every st from previous row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
Worked back and forth in several pieces and sewn tog when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Work 49-52-55-60-66-71 ch on hook size 9 mm / M/13 with 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air . Then work as follows from RS: 1 tr in 5th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 0-3-6-0-6-0 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 tr in each of the next 10 ch *, repeat from *-* 3-3-3-4-4-5 more times = 42-45-48-52-58-62 tr - READ CROCHET INFO. Now work PATTERN - see explanation above, until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'' - adjust so that last row worked is 2nd row in pattern, insert a marker in the outermost st in each side of piece. Work 7-7-6-6-5-5 new ch at the end of row = 49-52-54-58-63-67 sts. Now work as follows:
ROW 1 (= WS): Work 1st row in pattern over the 7-7-6-6-5-5 new ch, and continue over back piece, work 7-7-6-6-5-5 new ch at the end of row = 56-59-60-64-68-72 sts.
ROW 2: (Remember Crochet info) Work 1 sc in each of the first 3-3-2-2-1-1 ch (4 ch remain before st with marker), work 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, then 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch. Continue with 2nd row in pattern over back piece until next marker. Work 1 dc in each of the next 2 sc, then 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the remaining 3-3-2-2-1-1 sc on row, work 4-4-4-3-3-2 new ch at the end of row = 60-63-64-67-71-74 sts.
ROW 3: Work 1st row in pattern over all sts on back piece, work 4-4-4-3-3-2 new ch at the end of row = 64-67-68-70-74-76 sts.
ROW 4: Work 1 sc in each of the first 7-7-6-5-4-3 sts (= 4 sts remain before st with marker), work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, then 1 dc in each of the next 2 sc, continue with 2nd row in pattern over back piece until next marker, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 sc, then 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the remaining 7-7-6-5-4-3 sc on row, work 5-4-4-4-3-3 new ch at the end of row = 69-71-72-74-77-79 sts.
ROW 5: Work 1st row in pattern over all sts on back piece, work 5-4-4-4-3-3 new ch at the end of row = 74-75-76-78-80-82 sts on row. Continue with pattern as before (i.e. work tr from RS and sc from WS). When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8'', adjust so that next row is 2nd row in pattern, work as follows: Work the first 31-31-31-32-33-34 sts. Cut the yarn. Skip the next 12-13-14-14-14-14 sc from previous row (= neck), work the remaining 31-31-31-32-33-34 sts. Cut the yarn.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 41-43-45-47-51-53 ch (includes 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 9 mm / M/13 with Cloud. Then work as follows from RS: Work 1 tr in 5th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 3-5-7-9-2-4 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 tr in each of the next 10 ch *, repeat from *-* 2-2-2-2-3-3 more times = 35-37-39-41-44-46 tr. Continue with pattern as on back piece until piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', adjust according to back piece and so that last row is 2nd row in pattern. Insert a marker in last st seen from RS, work 7-7-6-6-5-5 new ch at the end of row = 42-44-45-47-49-51 sts.
ROW 1 (= WS): Continue with 1st row in pattern over the 7-7-6-6-5-5 new ch, then continue over the remaining sts.
ROW 2: Work 2nd row in pattern to st with marker, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, then 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, 1 sc in each of the remaining 3-3-2-2-1-1 ch on row, work 4-4-4-3-3-2 new ch at the end of row = 46-48-49-50-52-53 sts.
ROW 3: Work 1st row in pattern over all sts.
ROW 4: Work 2nd row in pattern over all sts to st with marker, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sc, then 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the remaining 7-7-6-5-4-3 sc, work 5-5-4-4-4-3-3 new ch at the end of row = 51-52-53-54-55-56 sts.
ROW 5: Work 1st row in pattern over all sts on row.
Continue with pattern over all sts until piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'', adjust so that last row is 2nd row in pattern. Cut the yarn.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Then work shawl collar in sc over the outermost 20-21-22-22-22-22 sts towards mid front on jacket. NOTE: Work in front loop of sts from WS and back loop of sts from RS. Beg from WS. Work 1 sl st in 20th-21st-22nd-22nd-22nd-22nd tr from mid front, ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts on row, * turn and work 1 sc in each of the first 10-10-11-11-11-11 sc, turn and work back, turn and work over all the 20-21-22-22-22-22 sc, turn and work back *, repeat from *-* until shawl collar measures 8-8-9-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½"-3½" along the shortest side. Cut the yarn.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. when piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', adjust according to right front piece and so that last row is 2nd row in pattern.
ROW 1: Turn piece and work 1st row in pattern over all sts, insert a marker in last st on row (seen from WS), work 7-7-6-6-5-5 new ch.
ROW 2: Work 1 sc in each of the first 3-3-2-2-1-1 ch (4 sc remain before st with marker), work 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, continue with 2nd row in pattern over the remaining sts. Then continue inc for sleeve on every row from WS the same way as on right front piece. Adjust according to right front piece, and work shawl collar reversed, i.e. beg from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams, sew underarm seams and side seams in one inside 1 tr/sc but leave 20 cm / 8'' for vent in each side. Make sure that to avoid a tight seam. Sew the 2 shawl collars tog mid back and sew it to the neck.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF JACKET:
Beg in first st (seen from RS) on back piece and work as follows: Fasten yarn with 1 sl st, work 1 sc in every dc, cut the yarn. Then work one more row with sc from RS but now work in back loop of st. Repeat on both front pieces.

EDGE ALONG BAND:
Fasten yarn with 1 sl st in the corner at the bottom of right band and work as follows from RS: Work ch 2, skip until first sc-row and work (1 dc, 1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc, 1 dc) around sc-row, ch 1, * skip until next sc-row and work (1 dc, 1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc, 1 dc) around next sc-row *, repeat from *-* around the entire band and collar but when working collar, skip approx. 4 cm / 1½'' before working a new dc-group. I.e. there are approx. 10 dc-groups over collar.

CUFF/SLEEVE EDGE:
ROUND 1: Fasten yarn with 1 sl st in sleeve seam and work 4 ch (= 1 tr), work 30 tr around sleeve opening (i.e. approx. 1 tr around every sc-row and 3 tr around every row with tr). Finish round with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round.
ROUND 2: Work ch 1, continue with 1 sc in every tr. NOTE: Work in back loop of dc below. Fasten off.
Repeat around the other sleeve.

----------------------------------------------------------
Hat and scarf:
See DROPS 166-07 or "Related patterns" in pattern on website.
----------------------------------------------------------

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 166-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (75)

country flag Marion 09.03.2021 - 23:30:

Ich verstehe den Anfang des Vorderteils nicht. Erste Hinreihe = was bedeutet das „0-3-6-0-6-0“ hinter den ersten beiden Doppelstäbchen?

user icon DROPS Design 10.03.2021 kl. 07:33:

Liebe Marion, jede Anzahl entpricht jede Größe, dh, in die 1. 4. und 6. Größe häkelt man hier kein Doppelstäbchen, in die 2. Größe häkelt man 1 Doppelstäbchen in die 3 nächsten Luftmaschen und in die 3. und 5. Größe häkelt man 1 Doppelstäbchen in die 6 nächsten Luftmaschen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Monica H 24.11.2020 - 22:03:

Ik begrijp niet hoe ik de sjaalkraag moet maken. Moet je iets op elkaar haken? Waar moet ik beginnen? Heb het achterpand en de twee voorpanden af maar alsnog ze op elkaar leg is het voor te breed. Dus ergens moet ik iets omslaan, maar hoe??

user icon DROPS Design 30.11.2020 kl. 20:41:

Dag Monica,

De sjaalkraag haak je heen en weer op de voorpanden en aan de kant van de schouder steekt er een stuk uit. Als je de sjaalkraag van beide panden klaar hebt, naai je de kraag midden achter vast en het uitstekende deel wordt langs de halslijn op het achterpand vast genaaid. Je begint met de sjaalkraag in het 20e-21e-22e-22e-22e-22e stokje vanaf de schouder.

country flag Morin 04.10.2020 - 16:59:

Bonjour, puis-je faire ce modèle avec le fil Andes de chez Drops ? Cordialement.

user icon DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 11:00:

Bonjour Mme Morin, tout à fait, car Andes et Cloud sont du même groupe, vous obtiendrez toutefois une texture différente car ces 2 fils n'ont pas la même composition, raison pour laquelle nous proposons ici 2 fils Air - vous trouverez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici. Bon crochet!

country flag Julie D C 10.01.2020 - 22:11:

Hej. Hvad gør man med ærmerne? Der ikke nogen opskrift på ærmerne og er lidt stuck.

user icon DROPS Design 15.01.2020 kl. 15:39:

Hej Julie, Jo ærmerne tages ud med luftmasker i hver side ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!

country flag Cynthia Holloway 12.12.2019 - 01:43:

On the Left Front Piece, I am confused about working as :right front but reversed". You answered me to start with the last item and work backwords, I have no clue how to do that. Can you please explain it me.

user icon DROPS Design 12.12.2019 kl. 09:37:

Dear Mrs Holloway, you will start as on right front piece: crochet the same number of chains, work the same number of stitches on first row; continue in pattern until same height as on right front piece/back piece and cast on the new stitches for sleeve at the end of a WS row (instead of a RS row) and continue working from RS (instad of from WS under right font piece) and from WS (instead of from RS under right front piece). If you are doubting, just look at your right front piece, the left one should be reversed/mirrored. Happy crocheting!

country flag Cynthia Holloway 11.12.2019 - 19:30:

I am starting on the Left Front Piece, I am confused about working as "right front but reversed". Can you please explain in detail how I work it reversed.

user icon DROPS Design 11.12.2019 kl. 23:45:

Dear Cinthia, you should knit, mirroring what you did on the other side. I.e. start with the last item, and go backwards. Happy Crafting!

country flag Steffi 26.07.2019 - 22:44:

Hallo, ich verstehe den Rand um die Blende nicht. Muß ich das Stb und Hstb immer in die fm/R häkeln oder um die Doppelstäbchen? Ist dann der Abstand nicht zu kurz, da ja noch doe dstb dazwischen sind?

user icon DROPS Design 27.07.2019 kl. 08:57:

Liebe Steffi, Sie häkeln immer um die feste-Maschen-Reihe, nicht um die Doppelstäbchen-Reihe. Durch die Menge an Maschen, die Sie um die feste Masche häkeln (5 Maschen insgesamt - 1 Stb + 1 H-Stb + 1 Lm + 1 H-Stb + 1 Stb), wird der Abstand zur nächsten festen-Maschen-Reihe überbrückt. Viel Spaß beim Tragen der schönen Jacke!

country flag Valentina 05.03.2019 - 14:24:

Buongiorno, non capisco bene il diagramma... le misure indicate a cosa si riferiscono? Solo dietro... o dietro più un fianco.... ? Scusatemi ma non riesco a controllare se le parti che ho fatto corrisponderanno alle misure fornite.. grazie

user icon DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 16:13:

Buongiorno Valentina. La misura in basso (p.es 50 per la taglia più piccola) è riferita solo al dietro. Buon lavoro!

country flag Nina 14.02.2019 - 10:39:

Hei! jeg arbeider med venstre forstykke nå. Men jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg skal følge oppskriften fra høyre forstykke. Finnes det en video eller bedre forklaring på venstre forstykke?

user icon DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 07:37:

Hei Nina. Du hekler akkurat slik du gjorde på det høyre forstykket til arebidet måler 46 cm. Luftmaskene som legges opp til erme legges nå opp i motsatt side fra høyre forstykke: altså du legger opp luftmaskene på slutten av RAD 1 ( i forklaringen) isteden for raden før. Når du videre øker til ermhull må dette skje fra vrangen, ellers hekler du på samme måte som høyre forstykke. Sjalskragen hekles også på samme måte, men med start fra retten, da blir den speilvendt. God fornøyelse

country flag Nina 01.02.2019 - 16:42:

Jeg har akkurat begynt på denne oppskriften i M størrelse. Jag er jobber med bakstykket nå. Jeg forstår ikke helt hvordan jeg går videre fra å ha heklet de 45 dbl-st. Er det neste i opprskriften å hekle 7 nye lm? Hvordan gjør man i så fall dette. Jeg har igjen 3 lm fra første omg./rad.

user icon DROPS Design 07.02.2019 kl. 09:07:

Hei Nina. Etter at du har heklet det 45 dblst har du ingen luftmasker igjen fra forrige omgang. Du hekler 1 dblst i den 5 lm, 1 dblsti hver av de neste 3, *hopp over 1 lm, hekle 1 dblst i de neste 10 lm* gjenta fra *-* 3 ganger til (=totalt 4 ganger) Videre skal du hekle som forklart under MØNSTER: 1 omgang (fra vrangen) begynner med 1 lm (hekletips). Videre hekler du 1 fm i hver av dblst på omgangen under, og du hekler i det fremste leddet (buen) i hver dblst. 2 omgang starter med 4 lm (hekletips). Videre hekler du 1 dblst i hver fm, men nå hekler du i det bakre leddet (buen) av fastmasken. Disse 2 omgangene gjentar du oppover til arebidet måler 46 cm. God fornøyelse

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 166-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.