Princess Matilde by DROPS Design

Crochet dress worked top down with raglan, short sleeves and fan pattern plus hair band with flowers in DROPS BabyMerino, DROPS Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7. Size children 2 - 10 years

  • Princess Matilde / DROPS Children 26-5 - Crochet dress worked top down with raglan, short sleeves and fan pattern plus hair band with flowers in DROPS BabyMerino, DROPS Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7. Size children 2 - 10 years
  • Princess Matilde / DROPS Children 26-5 - Crochet dress worked top down with raglan, short sleeves and fan pattern plus hair band with flowers in DROPS BabyMerino, DROPS Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7. Size children 2 - 10 years
  • Princess Matilde / DROPS Children 26-5 - Crochet dress worked top down with raglan, short sleeves and fan pattern plus hair band with flowers in DROPS BabyMerino, DROPS Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7. Size children 2 - 10 years
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-005-bn
Yarn group A
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DRESS:
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
All measurements in chart in cm.

Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g color no 16, red

Or use:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350 g color no 19, red

Or use:
Materials:
DROPS ♥ You #7 from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 16, red

HAIR BAND:
Size: 2/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Head circumference: 48/50 - 50/52 - 52/53 - 54/55 cm / 19 1/4"-20"-20 3/4"-21½"
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 02, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 16, red
50 g for all sizes in color no 30, blue

Or use:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 18, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 19, red
50 g for all sizes in color no 09, navyblue

Or use:
Materials:
DROPS ♥ You #7 from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 01, white
50 g for all sizes in colour no 16, red
50 g for all sizes in colour no 05, navy blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows vertically = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS BUTTON: FLOWER (white) NO 600 – 3 pieces in all sizes (for dress).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Lace DROPS Lace
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round/row with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Finish row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same st.
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DRESS:
The piece is worked top down. Work back and forth from mid back to after vent mid back, then work piece in the round.

YOKE:
Work 77-81-85-85-89 loose ch (includes 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Baby Merino, Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 76-80-84-84-88 sc on row.
Now insert 4 markers in piece for raglan as follows (beg mid back – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting markers): Skip 12-13-14-14-15 sc (= right back piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 12 sc (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 24-26-28-28-30 sc (= front piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 12 sc (= sleeve) and insert last marker in next sc (there are now 12-13-14-14-15 sc on left back piece after last marker).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
READ CROCHET INFO and work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 dc in every sc but in every sc with marker work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc = 88-92-96-96-100 dc on row (= 12 dc inc).

Then inc for raglan: Continue with dc, and work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in every ch-space in every raglan line (= 16 dc inc on row). Repeat inc on every row 6-6-7-8-9 more times (= 7-7-8-9-10 times in total) = 200-204-224-240-260 dc on row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Work next row as follows from RS:

Work 1 dc in each of the first 28-29-32-34-37 dc (= right back piece), skip the next 44-44-48-52-56 dc (= sleeve), work 8 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 56-58-64-68-74 dc (= front piece), skip the next 44-44-48-52-56 dc (= sleeve), work 8 ch and work 1 dc in each of the last 28-29-32-34-37 dc (= left back piece). Sleeve caps are now done and piece is worked in the round.

BODY:
Put piece tog mid back with RS out and work 1 round with dc (work 1 dc in every dc from previous round and 1 dc in every ch under each sleeve – remember CROCHET INFO) = 128-132-144-152-164 sts on round. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 4-4-4-5-5 cm / 1½"-1½"-1½"-2"-2", on last round inc 2-3-1-3-1 dc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 130-135-145-155-165 dc. Now work fan pattern as follows:

ROUND 1: 1 sc in first dc, *4 ch, skip 4 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 4, skip 4 dc and 1 sl st in first sc = 26-27-29-31-33 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in every ch-space.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until first ch-space, then work 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in every ch-space.
Repeat 3rd round until piece measures 15-17-18-20-21 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7"-8"-8 1/4"

WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: Work sl sts until first ch-space, then work 4 dc + 2 ch + 4 dc in every ch-space.
Repeat this round until piece measures 25-28-31-34-36 cm / 9 3/4"-11"-12 1/4"-13½"-14 1/4"

WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: Work sl sts until first ch-space, then work 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in every ch-space. Repeat this round until piece measures 35-39-43-48-52 cm / 13 3/4"-15 1/4"-17"-19"-20½".
Fasten off.

ADJUSTING NECKLINE:
For better fit work a small elevation at the back of neck. Insert 1 marker in st in each corner in neck, i.e. at beg of every raglan line and 1 marker mid front.
Work on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 as follows: Beg mid back, work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remains before st with marker, work 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st, then work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remains before next st with marker, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st, the work 1 sc in every st until 4-4-5-5 (5-6) sts remain before marker mid front. Turn piece and work 1 sc in every sc back to mid back but at every marker work 3 sc tog, i.e. work 1 sc in hdc but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 sc in st with marker but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 sc in next hdc but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook (= 2 sc dec). Cut the yarn and repeat from mid back to mid front in the other side.

BUTTON BAND AT THE BACK:
Work along left opening mid back as follows: Work 2 sc in every dc-row and 1 sc in every sc-row. Work 4 rows in total with sc back and forth, fasten off. Along right opening mid back work buttonholes as follows (beg from RS at neck line): Work 4 sc (2 sc in the first two dc-rows), 4 ch (= 1 buttonhole), skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', work sc until approx. mid on band, ch 4, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', work sc until 1 cm / 3/8'' remains on band, 4 ch and fasten with 1 sc in last st. Fasten off. Sew the buttons on to button band in the left side.

NECK EDGE:
Work around the neck as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row, fasten off.

FAN EDGE AROUND SLEEVE CAPS:
Work as follows: Work 1 sc in each of the 8 sts mid under sleeve, then work fan edge around the sleeve opening as follows: * Skip approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', in next st work 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc, skip approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round (= approx. 9-9-10-10-11 fans along sleeve cap). Fasten off.
Repeat at the bottom around the other sleeve cap.
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HAIR BAND:
Work 6 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with off white.
Work first row as follows: Work 1 sc in 4th ch from hook, work 1 sc in each of the next ch 2, turn piece = 3 sc + 3 ch on row.
ROW 2: ch 3, 1 sc in each of the 3 sc from previous row, turn piece.
Repeat 2nd row until hair band measures approx. 42-44-46-48 cm / 16½"-17 1/4"-18"-19" (or desired length, subtract approx. 6-8 cm / 2½"-3" according to the head's circumference). Cut the yarn and sew the 2 short sides tog edge to edge with small stitches.

LARGE CROCHET FLOWER:
Work 7 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with off white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc in ch-ring, * ch 6, 1 sc in last dc made, 3 dc in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 7 ch-spaces with 3 dc between each. Fasten off.
ROUND 2: Switch to red. Work 1 sc in the middle of the first 3 dc on round, * 12 dc in ch-space, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.

SMALL CROCHET FLOWER:
Work 6 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with off white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 2 ch (= 1 hdc), 2 hdc in ch-ring, * ch 5, 1 sc in last hdc made, 3 hdc in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with 5 ch and 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round = 6 ch-spaces with 3 hdc between each. Fasten off.
ROUND 2: Switch to blue. Work 1 sc in the middle of the first 3 hdc on round, * 10 dc in ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in next hdc, skip 1 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew flowers on hair band with small sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 26-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Helena Lentz 02.11.2020 - 14:24:

Hej litet problem med att få ihop ökn så att jag har inte 32 stolpar som det står i diagrammet för 5/6 år får efter ökning som det ska vara. jag får29 maskor i bakstycket och 39 i ärm 56 i framstycke...39 i ärm och 29 bak.. Har följt er som det ska i diagrammet?

user icon DROPS Design 05.11.2020 kl. 09:13:

Hej Helena. Om det är måttskissen längst ner du ser på så är det mått i cm som vi uppger där, inte antal stolpar. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Erica Quinn 11.08.2020 - 20:02:

When increasing at the 4 markers for the first time - my stitches increase with 20 stitches instead of the 12 stitches they say it should. The pattern says to crochet 2dc, 2 chain, 2dc in each marker - so that will be four times.Is the pattern wrong or where am I making my mistake?

user icon DROPS Design 12.08.2020 kl. 07:56:

Dear Mrs Quinn, you inserted 4 markers and now work either 1 sc in each dc or 2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc (instead of 1 sc) in each of the stitch with a marker = you will then work 3 sts (+2 ch that are not counted) instead of only 1 a total of 4 times = you will increase 12 sts in total on this row and should have now 88-92-96-96-100 dc. Happy crocheting!

country flag Valentina 18.07.2020 - 09:06:

Buongiorno volevo fare una domanda da principiante ma il lavoro si unisce e si inizia a lavorare intorno oppure si unirà solo con i bottoni dietro aperto per tutta la lavorazione? E mi sembra di capire che forse bisohna unirlo. Quando si inizia il corpo ma non ne sono sicura... Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 18.07.2020 kl. 10:15:

Buongiorno Valentina. Il vestito ha dei bottoni nella parte in alto del dietro. Si inizia a lavorare avanti e indietro; questa prima parte sarà chiusa dai bottoni. Poi prosegue in tondo. Buon lavoro!

country flag Manoa 29.12.2019 - 21:20:

Bonjour, Je tricote beaucoup mais n'ai encore jamais crocheté. Je cherche un modèle faisable pour une débutante, sans trop de difficulté : celui-ci est-il complexe à réaliser, svp ? Merci de vos conseils.

user icon DROPS Design 29.12.2019 kl. 23:40:

Bonjour Manoa! Ce modele est un peu complexe. Recherchez les modeles gratuites par categories, choisisses ‘modeles basiques’ et ‘crochet’. Commencez par une echarpe ou un bandeau. Chacun de nos modèles a des tutoriels vidéo spécifiques pour vous aider. Bon crochet!

country flag Suz 13.12.2019 - 12:13:

Jeg føler meg litt dum nå, men jeg forstår ikke hekleinfoen sett opp mot hvordan alt annet skal hekles. Kan noen forklare meg hvordan jeg implementerer hekleinfoen? Håper jeg er klar nok i spørsmålet mitt. På forhånd takk.

user icon DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 11:50:

Hej Suz, jo når du ifølge opskriften skal starte med 1 st, så hækler du istedet for 3 lm (for at komme op til næste række). God fornøjelse!

country flag Kath 31.08.2019 - 09:58:

I'm attempting size 9/10 on the yoke when you have to put in markers, at end of row the pattern states you should have 15 sc left ,but I have 19. By pattern I should have 88, but adding 15+12+30+12+15 that the pattern states ,only adds up to 84. Should I then make the left and right back 16sts and armholes 13sts to add up to 88sts.

user icon DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 09:26:

Dear Kath, the markers should be inserted in a stitch, not between stitches, so that you will work the increase row as follows: 15 dc, (2dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in the stitch with marker, 12 dc, (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in the stitch with marker, 30 dc, (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in the stitch with marker, 12 dc, (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in the stitch with marker, 15 dc = 15 + 4 + 12 + 4 + 30 + 4 + 12 +4 + 15= 100 dc (in larger size). Happy crocheting!

country flag Hanne 04.07.2019 - 11:43:

Takk for svar 😊Da blir det som jeg trudde 9 rader totalt 👍😊

country flag Hanne 04.07.2019 - 08:38:

Det er ikke økning med 16 staver på 1.rad, kun 12 staver. Og derfor blir det kun 208 staver totalt etter 8 råder. LES min forrige kommentar! Må hekle 9 råder for å få 224 staver.

user icon DROPS Design 04.07.2019 kl. 11:23:

Raden med ökning av 12 st gör du kun 1 gang, efter det har du 96 st. Efter det gör du ökningar med 16 st per rad och detta gör du 8 ganger (den första ökningen av 12 st på raden är alltså inte inräknad när vi skriver att ökningen ska göras totalt 8 ganger). Räknar man med den första raden med ökning av 12 st blir det totalt 9 rader med ökning. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Hanne 04.07.2019 - 05:14:

Hei Hekler i str 5/6 år. Det skal hekles i alt 8 rader med økning. Står at det etter økning skal være totalt 224 staver. Får ikke dette til å stemme. 1.rad økes med 12 staver, rad 2-8 økes med 7 x 16 staver = 96 pluss 112 = 208 staver. Altså 16 staver mindre. Skal det da hekles en rad til = 9 rader?

user icon DROPS Design 04.07.2019 kl. 07:03:

Hej Hanne. Det ökas 16 st på varje rad vid raglanökning (hekle 2 st + 2 lm + 2 st om hver lm-bue i hver raglanlinje). Ökningen gjentas totalt 8 ganger; 96 + (16x8) = 224 st. Lycka till!

country flag Anna 11.06.2019 - 07:06:

Hallo, muss ich bei dem Fächermuster in der 3.Rd nur bis zum ersten LM-Bogen KM häkeln und dann immer 3Stb, 2Lm, 3 Stb wiederholen oder nach den 3Stb bis zum nächsten LM-Bogen wieder KM und so weiter? Viele Grüße Anna

user icon DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 12:35:

Liebe Anna, bei dem Fächermuster sollen Sie immer die 3. Rd wiederholen = kett-Maschen bis zum ersten Lm-Bogen, dann immer 3 Stb, 2 Lm, 3 Stb um jeden Lm-Bogen herum, und mit 1 Kett-M in das erste Stb enden (= das 1. Stb wird durch 3 Lm ersetzt). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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