DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Lace
DROPS Lace
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Princess Matilde

Crochet dress worked top down with raglan, short sleeves and fan pattern plus hair band with flowers in DROPS BabyMerino, DROPS Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7. Size children 2 - 10 years

DROPS Children 26-5
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-005-bn
Yarn group A
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DRESS:
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Size in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 16, red

Or use:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 19, red

Or use:
Materials:
DROPS ♥ You #7 from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 16, red

HAIR BAND:
Size: 2/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Head circumference: 48/50 - 50/52 - 52/53 - 54/55 cm
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 02, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour no 16, red
50 g for all sizes in colour no 30, blue

Or use:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 18, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour no 19, red
50 g for all sizes in colour no 09, navyblue

Or use:
Materials:
DROPS ♥ You #7 from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 01, white
50 g for all sizes in colour no 16, red
50 g for all sizes in colour no 05, navy blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 12 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUTTON: FLOWER (white) NO 600 – 3 pieces in all sizes (for dress).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Lace
DROPS Lace
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr round/row with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Finish row with 1 tr in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in same st.
----------------------------------------------------------

DRESS:
The piece is worked top down. Work back and forth from mid back to after vent mid back, then work piece in the round.

YOKE:
Work 77-81-85-85-89 loose ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm with Baby Merino, Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7. Work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 dc in every ch the entire row = 76-80-84-84-88 dc on row.
Now insert 4 markers in piece for raglan as follows (beg mid back – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting markers): Skip 12-13-14-14-15 dc (= right back piece), insert 1 marker in next dc, skip 12 dc (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next dc, skip 24-26-28-28-30 dc (= front piece), insert 1 marker in next dc, skip 12 dc (= sleeve) and insert last marker in next dc (there are now 12-13-14-14-15 dc on left back piece after last marker).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
READ CROCHET INFO and work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 tr in every dc but in every dc with marker work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr = 88-92-96-96-100 tr on row (= 12 tr inc).

Then inc for raglan: Continue with tr, and work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr in every ch-space in every raglan line (= 16 tr inc on row). Repeat inc on every row 6-6-7-8-9 more times (= 7-7-8-9-10 times in total) = 200-204-224-240-260 tr on row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Work next row as follows from RS:

Work 1 tr in each of the first 28-29-32-34-37 tr (= right back piece), skip the next 44-44-48-52-56 tr (= sleeve), work 8 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 56-58-64-68-74 tr (= front piece), skip the next 44-44-48-52-56 tr (= sleeve), work 8 ch and work 1 tr in each of the last 28-29-32-34-37 tr (= left back piece). Sleeve caps are now done and piece is worked in the round.

BODY:
Put piece tog mid back with RS out and work 1 round with tr (work 1 tr in every tr from previous round and 1 tr in every ch under each sleeve – remember CROCHET INFO) = 128-132-144-152-164 sts on round. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 4-4-4-5-5 cm, on last round inc 2-3-1-3-1 tr evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 130-135-145-155-165 tr. Now work fan pattern as follows:

ROUND 1: 1 dc in first tr, *4 ch, skip 4 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 4 ch, skip 4 tr and 1 sl st in first dc = 26-27-29-31-33 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in every ch-space.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until first ch-space, then work 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in every ch-space.
Repeat 3rd round until piece measures 15-17-18-20-21 cm

WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: Work sl sts until first ch-space, then work 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in every ch-space.
Repeat this round until piece measures 25-28-31-34-36 cm

WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: Work sl sts until first ch-space, then work 4 dtr + 2 ch + 4 dtr in every ch-space. Repeat this round until piece measures 35-39-43-48-52 cm Fasten off.

ADJUSTING NECKLINE:
For better fit work a small elevation at the back of neck. Insert 1 marker in st in each corner in neck, i.e. at beg of every raglan line and 1 marker mid front.
Work on hook size 3.5 mm as follows: Beg mid back, work 1 dc in every st until 1 st remains before st with marker, work 1 htr in next st, 1 tr in st with marker and 1 htr in next st, then work 1 dc in every st until 1 st remains before next st with marker, 1 htr in next st, 1 tr in st with marker and 1 htr in next st, the work 1 dc in every st until 4-4-5-5 (5-6) sts remain before marker mid front. Turn piece and work 1 dc in every dc back to mid back but at every marker work 3 dc tog, i.e. work 1 dc in htr but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 dc in st with marker but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 dc in next htr but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook (= 2 dc dec). Cut the yarn and repeat from mid back to mid front in the other side.

BUTTON BAND AT THE BACK:
Work along left opening mid back as follows: Work 2 dc in every tr-row and 1 dc in every dc-row. Work 4 rows in total with dc back and forth, fasten off. Along right opening mid back work buttonholes as follows (beg from RS at neck line): Work 4 dc (2 dc in the first two tr-rows), 4 ch (= 1 buttonhole), skip approx. 1 cm, work dc until approx. mid on band, 4 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, work dc until 1 cm remains on band, 4 ch and fasten with 1 dc in last st. Fasten off. Sew the buttons on to button band in the left side.

NECK EDGE:
Work around the neck as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 2 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row, fasten off.

FAN EDGE AROUND SLEEVE CAPS:
Work as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the 8 sts mid under sleeve, then work fan edge around the sleeve opening as follows: * Skip approx. 2 cm, in next st work 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr, skip approx. 2 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (= approx. 9-9-10-10-11 fans along sleeve cap). Fasten off.
Repeat at the bottom around the other sleeve cap.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAIR BAND:
Work 6 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with off white.
Work first row as follows: Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, turn piece = 3 dc + 3 ch on row.
ROW 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in each of the 3 dc from previous row, turn piece.
Repeat 2nd row until hair band measures approx. 42-44-46-48 cm (or desired length, subtract approx. 6-8 cm according to the head's circumference). Cut the yarn and sew the 2 short sides tog edge to edge with small stitches.

LARGE CROCHET FLOWER:
Work 7 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with off white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr in ch-ring, * 6 ch, 1 dc in last tr made, 3 tr in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 7 ch-spaces with 3 tr between each. Fasten off.
ROUND 2: Switch to red. Work 1 dc in the middle of the first 3 tr on round, * 12 tr in ch-space, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Fasten off.

SMALL CROCHET FLOWER:
Work 6 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with off white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 2 ch (= 1 htr), 2 htr in ch-ring, * 5 ch, 1 dc in last htr made, 3 htr in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with 5 ch and 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round = 6 ch-spaces with 3 htr between each. Fasten off.
ROUND 2: Switch to blue. Work 1 dc in the middle of the first 3 htr on round, * 10 tr in ch-space, skip 1 htr, 1 dc in next htr, skip 1 htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew flowers on hair band with small sts.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Julie wrote:

In the "Body" section, it says to repeat Round 3 until the dress measures "X." For me, that's 6&3/4. From where to where is that measurement taken?

01.04.2023 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julie, the measurement is taken from where it indicated: NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! at the beginning of the Body, up until the round you are currently working. Happy crochetting!

02.04.2023 - 20:25

country flag Rie wrote:

Jeg vil gerne hækle med flere farver garn til 5/6 år. Hvor mange garn-ruller (af 50 gram) skal man bruge til øverste del af kjolen og hvor mange til den nedre del af kjolen (den del med hæklede luft huller)? Jeg har 4 forskellige farver. Er den hvide underdel med i opskriften?

15.11.2022 - 21:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rie, du skal bruge ialt 5 nøgler DROPS Baby Merino. Nej den hvide underkjole er ikke med :)

16.11.2022 - 13:12

country flag Gillian Sansum wrote:

Hi I have looked at the diagram provided and it looks like it is a round neck....I seem to have ended up with a square neck...your help please thanks Gillian

02.08.2022 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sansum, at the very end, you will crochet an elevation to make the neck higher on the back so that the neckline will look round - see ADJUSTING NECKLINE. Happy crocheting!

02.08.2022 - 17:15

country flag Jette Brøns wrote:

Hej. Jeg har et spørgsmål angående kjolen. Den hvide underdel er den også hæklet? Venlig hilsen Jette Brøns

12.01.2022 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette, nej det er kun det røde i kjolen som er hæklet. God fornøjelse!

13.01.2022 - 11:32

country flag Marianne wrote:

Vedr. vifteærme Det passer bedre med at springe over 2masker pr. gang og ikke 2cm.

25.11.2021 - 16:31

country flag Kirstine Rasmussen wrote:

Lige meget hvad jeg gør, så får jeg aldrig de rigtige antal masker til når jeg har hæklet de første 7 rækker, hvor jeg skal ende med 204 masker. Der mangler mange. Hvad mon jeg gør forkert?

19.11.2021 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kirstine, du har 92 masker, tager 16 masker ud 7 gange = 112 = 204 masker - god fornøjelse!

23.11.2021 - 09:11

country flag Fia Älander wrote:

Det står "när arbetet mäter 15 cm.... var ska jag måta från då? jag virkar den minsta storleken

15.06.2021 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Fia, du mäter från där det står HERIFRÅN MÄTS NU ARB! Lycka till :)

16.06.2021 - 13:06

country flag Anna wrote:

Scusi se insisto ma dopo aver fatto le 84 maglie basse sono costretta a girare il lavoro,a questo punto mi trovo sul diritto o rovescio del lavoro? E se mi trovo sul rovescio come faccio a lavorare sul diritto?

18.05.2021 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna, può considerare quella riga come diritto del lavoro, e da lì imposta tutta la lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

20.05.2021 - 22:03

country flag Anna wrote:

Domanda da principiante: sto facendo la taglia 5/6 ho lavorato le 84 maglie basse e messo i 4 segnapunti poi c'è scritto, lavorare la riga successiva come segue dal diritto del lavoro.Cosa si intende per diritto del lavoro?

17.05.2021 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna, i lavori a maglia e uncinetto hanno un diritto e un rovescio del lavoro. In questo caso deve iniziare a lavorare sul diritto del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

17.05.2021 - 22:32

country flag Helena Lentz wrote:

Hej litet problem med att få ihop ökn så att jag har inte 32 stolpar som det står i diagrammet för 5/6 år får efter ökning som det ska vara. jag får29 maskor i bakstycket och 39 i ärm 56 i framstycke...39 i ärm och 29 bak.. Har följt er som det ska i diagrammet?

02.11.2020 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helena. Om det är måttskissen längst ner du ser på så är det mått i cm som vi uppger där, inte antal stolpar. Mvh DROPS Design

05.11.2020 - 09:13