DROPS / 156 / 30

Raquel by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS head band and shoulder piece in "Eskimo".

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-506
Yarn group E or C + C
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HEAD BAND:
Size: S/M – M/L – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 – 58/60 cm / 21½"-22½"-23"
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
50-100-100 g color no 53, light gray

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

SHOULDER PIECE:
Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Measurements: Length without fringes: 100-110-120 cm / 39½"-43½"-47". Width: 50-55-61 cm / 19 3/4"-21½"-24"
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
350-450-500 g color no 53, light gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show pattern seen from RS (1st row = RS).

EDGE ST:
Row 1 (beg of row): 1 st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, K 1, P 2.
Row 1 (end of row): P 2, K 1, 1 st in garter st.
Row 2: Garter st over garter st, K over K and P over P.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
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HEAD BAND:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 9 sts on needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Eskimo. Work as follows from RS: 4 EDGE STS - see explanation above, 1 st in stockinette st, 4 edge sts. When piece measures 8 cm / 3'', work as follows from RS: 4 edge sts, A.1, 4 edge sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 21 sts on needle. Then repeat the last 2 rows in A.1 with 4 edge sts in each side of piece. When piece measures 33-35-37 cm / 13"-13 3/4"-14½", work as follows from RS: 4 edge sts, A.2, 4 edge sts. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 9 sts on needle. Then work as follows from RS: 4 edge sts, 1 st in stockinette st, 4 edge sts. When piece measures 49-51-53 cm / 19 1/4"-20"-21", bind off with K over K and P over P. Cut the yarn, leave approx. 20 cm / 8'' - this is used for assembly.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog bind-off and cast-on edge, edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts to avoid a chunky seam.
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SHOULDER PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 6 sts on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Eskimo.
Work 1st row (= RS) as follows: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, K 1 = 11 sts. P 1 row where 1st, 3rd and 5th YO is worked P (to make holes to fasten fringes), while 2nd and 4th YO is worked P twisted (to avoid holes). K 1 row while inc 6-7-8 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP. = 17-18-19 sts. P 1 row. K 1 row while inc 6-7-8 sts evenly = 23-25-27 sts. Work 5 rows rib (= K 1, P 1), finish with K 1, with 3 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, in each side of piece. Now work as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, A.3 (8-9-10 times in total), finish with first st in A.3 (without YO between 2 sts) and 3 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 55-61-67 sts on needle. Repeat the last 2 rows until piece measures 83-93-103 cm / 32 3/4"-36½"-40½". Now work as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, A.4 (8-9-10 times in total), finish with first st in A.4 and 3 sts in garter st. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 23-25-27 sts on needle. Work 5 rows rib (= K 1, P 1), finish with K 1, with 3 sts in garter st in each side of piece. P 1 row while dec 6-7-8 sts evenly by P 2 tog = 17-18-19 sts. K 1 row. P 1 row while dec 6-7-8 sts evenly = 11 sts. Work next row as follows: * K 3 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, K 2 tog = 7 sts. P 1 row and work YOs P (to make holes to fasten fringes), bind off. Piece measures approx. 100-110-120 cm / 39½"-43½"-47".

FRINGES:
1 fringe: Cut 3 strands of 2 meters/2.2 yds, cut in 2 (= 6 strands), thread strands through one of the holes in the end (do not tie). Make 2 fringes more the same way, and thread through the other 2 holes. Make 1 LOOSE plait of the 3 fringes, then make 1 loose knot at the end (leave approx. 8 cm / 3'' strands at the end).
Repeat on the other side of shoulder piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 22.09.2014
New Chart A.2

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= work 3 sts tog into 1 st as follows: Slip first st as if to K, slip 2nd st on 1 needle in front of piece, pass first st back on needle. K tog first and 3rd st, pass second st over st worked
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P
= P tog YO from previous row and st
= K 2 tog
= knitting direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Stacey 11.10.2019 - 05:49:

I'm having extreme difficulty understanding this pattern, is there a written pattern, as in American English. I've gotten as far as CO 9sts 1) K2, P2, K1, P2, K2. 2) K1, P1, K2, P1, K2, P1, K1. this is how I'm used to reading patterns. Please help.. Thank you in advance. ~Stacey

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 09:27:

Dear Stacey, this video shows how to work A.1 - happy knitting!

Marian 21.09.2019 - 00:36:

Can this be converted to a crochet pattern? I saw a movie called Dangerous Waters (I think that's what it's called) and this young woman was wearing this adorable headband that looks like this one (only it sported a flower with bling) and I have been dying to make one. But, I prefer crochet to knitting,..I'd have to dust off the knitting needles!

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 08:14:

Dear Marian, we do not have any experience converting knitted pattern into crochet pattern; for any individual assistance please contact your store or any crochet forum. Happy crocheting!

Maria 21.08.2019 - 01:06:

Habe das Muster für den Schulterwärmer jetzt fünfmal angefangen, aber wenn ich zu A.3 komme, ist immer die Rückseite auf der Vorderseite. Die Rippen laufen super ineinander, nur eben auf der Seite, auf der der Anfang krauß ist. Bitte um Unterstützung. Sie müssen ja sehen, daß sehr viele Leute Probleme mit Ihren Anleitungen haben. Klarheit wäre nett.

DROPS Design 21.08.2019 kl. 08:36:

Liebe Maria, haben Siei dieses Video gesehen? Es zeigt, wie man A.3 strickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Joanne M Fishman 26.02.2019 - 03:36:

I agree with Bonny 23.11.2014. Your patterns are confusing and therefore not enjoyable to some of us. I will drop this pattern.

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 11:39:

Dear Mrs Fishman, we are sorry to hear that you have worries with our patterns. There might be as many differrent way to write pattern as there are knitters, and it's most of the time just a matter of how to read them. You will find some videos showing how to work the beg. ofo shoulder piece + diagrams A.1 to A.3. You are welcome to ask your question here, or contact the store where you bought the yarn for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

Mimi 24.01.2019 - 06:22:

Hi there, the instructions in diagram for the two sts decrease in A.2 are incomplete. You keep referring knitters to the videos. Yes, they're super helpful but it would be nice if you could update the pattern with a full sentence in the instructions. It won't take a long time to do and you would have solved a problem. Some knitters may be tech-challenged and rely on written instructions.... Thank you. Other than this observation, I made the headband twice in one evening and loved the results!

DROPS Design 24.01.2019 kl. 10:41:

Dear Mimi, thanks for your feedback, text will be updated under US-pattern. Happy knitting!

Béatrice DF 22.01.2018 - 12:50:

J'enrage. La solution est sans doute simple mais en suivant vos indications la ligne de côte est toujours brisée... Je ne comprends pas... Désolée...

DROPS Design 22.01.2018 kl. 13:53:

Bonjour Béatrice, au rang1, *placez le fil devant l'ouvrage, glissez la m suiv à l'env, ramenez le fil entre les 2 aiguilles (il va se placer au-dessus de la m glissée)*, tric la m env suiv à l'env. Au rang 2, tric ens. à l'env ce jeté et la m glissée. Au rang 3 (= augm), répétez de *-* pour la 1ère m de A.3, puis faites 1 jeté (enroulez le fil encore 1 fois autour de l'aiguille) = vous devez avoir 1 jeté autour de la m glissée + 1 jeté (= augm) et tric la m envers suiv. Au rang 4, tric le jeté (= augm) torse à l'end (dans le brin arrière) et tric le jeté au-dessus de la m glissée ens à l'env avec cette même maille, comme au rang 2. Bon tricot!

Béatrice DF 21.01.2018 - 09:34:

Je ne comprends pas la vidéo de A3. Le problème vient en partie du fait que je tiens mon fil de la main droite. Au rang 1 J'ai cru identifier que le jeté est à l'envers de ce que je fais habituellement mais au rang 2 je n'arrive pas à voir comment la maille et le jeté sont tricotés ensemble. Ce n'est pas une simple maille à l'envers. Pouvez-vous m'expliquer?

DROPS Design 22.01.2018 kl. 09:55:

Bonjour Béatrice, regardez bien les mailles et le fil dans la vidéo, (que l'on tienne le fil dans la main droite ou dans la gauche): pour tricoter 1 maille en côte anglaise, au rang 1 de A.3, on va passer le fil devant l'ouvrage, glisser la m suivante comme pour la tricoter à l'envers, enroulez le fil 1 fois autour de l'aiguille droite pour tricoter la maille suivante à l'envers (= le fil forme un jeté au-dessus de la m glissée) et tricotez la m suiv à l'envers. Au rang 2, tricotez ensemble à l'envers le jeté et la m glissée du rang précédent. Bon tricot!

Béatrice DF 03.01.2018 - 06:34:

Un grand merci pour votre réponse rapide et... meilleurs vœux pour la nouvelle année.

Béatrice DF 29.12.2017 - 22:35:

Quand vous dites de faire l'échantillon en point fantaisie, qu'entendez-vous? Aucun diagramme n'a le nombre de mailles correspondant. Un point équivalent? Des côtes? Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 02.01.2018 kl. 10:25:

Bonjour Béatrice, au regard de modèles tricotés en Eskimo avec la même tension, vous devez avoir 11 m x 15 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm. Bon tricot!

Kelsey K 13.12.2017 - 04:12:

I'm currently working on the wrap. I've followed the instructions and have 25 stitches on my circular needles (RS: 3 garter, P and K repeated ending with P, then 3 garter). How does A.3 fit? I've seen the video and the video starts A.3 with a K and P rib, not a P and K rib that I have. Where did I go wrong?

DROPS Design 13.12.2017 kl. 10:37:

Dear Mrs Kelsey K, before A.3 you work: 3 sts in garter st, rib K1/P1 until 3 sts remain, 3 sts in garter st. When working A.3, work 3 sts in garter st, repeat A.3 until 4 sts remain, then work the 1st st in A.3 (= row 1: 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P - row2: P tog YO from previous row and st, do not make the YO after this st), 3 sts in garter st. Happy knitting!

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