DROPS Extra / 0-992

Fireside Snuggle by DROPS Design

DROPS Christmas: Knitted DROPS socks with cable in "Nepal".

Tags: cable, christmas, socks,
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-133
Yarn group C
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Size:
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾’’-9½’’-10½’’
Leg length: 24 - 25 - 26 cm / 9½”-9¾”-10¼”

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150-200-200 g color no 0500, light gray
50-50-50 g color no 0100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in stockinette st = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 – for rib

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.85 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st as follows 2 sts before marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. After marker: K 2 tog.

HEEL DECREASE:
Work heel decrease in stockinette st:
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 4-5-5 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 4-5-5 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before every dec until 10-10-12 sts remain on needle.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, top down.
Cast on 56-56-64 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Nepal.
K 1 round, insert 1 marker in 1st st at beg of round = mid back, work rib = P 2/K 2. When rib measures 4-5-5 cm / 1½”-2”-2”, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work next round as follows: 20-20-24 sts in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-1-2 sts evenly, P 2, K 4, P 2 tog, K 4, P 2, 22-22-26 sts in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-3-4 sts evenly = 45-51-57 sts on needle.
Work next round as follows: * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with K 1.
Work next round as follows (K YOs):
Work 16-19-22 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 13 sts) - see explanation above and 16-19-22 sts in stockinette st. Continue pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME dec in the different sizes as follows:
Size 5/6½ (35/37): Continue to work without dec.
Size 7½/9 (38/40): When piece measures 9 and 16 cm / 3½” and 6¼”, dec 1 st on each side of st with marker - see DECREASE TIP.
Size 9½/10½ (41/43): When piece measures 8, 13 and 18 cm / 3”, 5” and 7”, dec 1 st on each side of st with marker - see DECREASE TIP = 45-47-51 sts.
All sizes: Work until piece measures 24-25-26 cm / 9½”-9¾”-10¼”.
Now keep the first 9-10-11 sts on needle, slip the next 27-27-29 sts on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot) and keep the last 9-10-11 sts on needle = 18-20-22 sts for heel. Work in stockinette st on heel sts for 5-5½-6 cm / 2”-2¼”-2½”.
Insert 1 marker and measure the piece from here.
Now dec for heel - see HEEL DECREASE above.
After heel dec, pick up 10-11-11 sts along each side of heel and slip the 27-27-29 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 57-59-63 sts.
Insert a marker on each side of the 27-27-29 sts from stitch holder.
Then work in stockinette st in the round and pattern A.1 as before while AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side on every other round a total of 8-8-8 times as follows:
K tog the last 2 sts before first marker on top of foot twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) and K tog the first 2 sts after last marker on top of foot = 41-43-47 sts.
Work until piece measures 18-20-22 cm / 7’’-8’’-8¾’’ from marker on heel (= approx. 4-4-5 cm / 1½’’-1½’’-2’’ remain).
Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 19-21-23 sts on top of foot and 22-22-24 sts under foot.
Continue diagram A.1 and in stockinette st and now dec for toes on each side of both markers:.
Dec as follows (beg 3 sts before marker) at each marker: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec like this in each side on every other round a total of 5-5-6 times and then on every round a total of 3-3-3 times = 9-11-11 sts remain on needles.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.
Knit another sock the same way.

TIES:
Cut 2 lengths of 3 metres each with off white. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread the tie up and down through the eyelet holes on the sock. Make 2 pompoms with an approx. diameter of 2 cm / 3/4’’ in off white. Fasten a pompom in each end of the tie. Repeat on the other sock.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.01.2019
Correction: Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 19-21-23 sts on top of foot and 22-22-24 sts under foot

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= put 2 sts on a cable needle behind work, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= put 2 sts on a cable needle in front of work, K 2, K 2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-992) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Herta Emilie 04.03.2019 - 01:14:

I finished this lovely socks today. Me and my friend Ritha are very happy about this nice patter. Thank you for all.

Sinne Kold 14.01.2019 - 20:09:

Jeg tror der er en lille fejl i opskriften. Der står at efter indtagninger i hver side (efter hæl) tager man ind til man har 41 masker i str 35/37, men når man så kommer til tå skal der være 21 masker og 22 masker- hvilket giver 43 masker.

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 13:19:

Hei Sinne. Det har du helt rett i, her var det en feil. Denne er nå rettet og du skal ha 19 masker oppå foten og 22 masker under foten i størrelse 35/37. God fornøyelse.

Naomi 17.11.2016 - 22:50:

Volgens mij is er iets misgegaan bij de vertaling in het telpatroon ("zet 2 st op het voorpand van brei")

DROPS Design 21.11.2016 kl. 14:59:

Hoi Naomi. Je hebt gelijk. Ik zal het meteen aanpassen. Bedankt!

Carmen 20.01.2016 - 21:37:

¿Aguja de doble punta es lo mismo que aguja circular?

DROPS Design 24.01.2016 kl. 10:12:

Hola Carmen. Aguja de doble punta (o también se llaman ag para hacer calcetines) no es lo mismo que ag circular. Se usan para hacer trabajos en redondo con pocos puntos (donde no se puede usar la ag circular corta).

Alexia 20.12.2015 - 18:53:

Bonjour, Lorsque vous indiquez "diminuer tous les 2 tours"'il faut tricoter 2 tours et diminuer au tour suivant ou tricoter 1 tour et diminuer au second ? Pour les diminutions du talon que signifie "tourner l'ouvrage ?". Arrivée à "tourner l'ouvrage", je tourne mon tricot et me retrouve donc avec des mailles du rang précédent qui ne sont pas tricotées puisque je repars dans l'autre sens...ça me fait une série de trous sous le talon ! Pouvez-vous m'éclairer ?

DROPS Design 21.12.2015 kl. 11:15:

Bonjour Alexia, quand on diminue tous les 2 tours on tricote (1 tour avec dim, 1 tour sans dim) et on répète de (à). Le talon se tricote en allers et retours - voir vidéo, on doit tourner à la fin de chaque rang pour tricoter alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

Simone 15.11.2015 - 13:14:

På hælfellingen, det er vel meningen at det på vrangen skal strikkes 2 vr sm før man snur arbeidet? Blir hull i hælen om man skal felle likt på begge sider.

Helen 14.10.2015 - 13:36:

I would like to knit these lovely socks for my 11 year old daughter. I wonder is there instructions of these socks for a child. If not, how many sts I should decrease to narrow them to fit a child. Her foot size is 35/37 but I think these might be to loose for her. Thank you.

DROPS Design 14.10.2015 kl. 16:22:

Dear Helen, these socks are given in size 35/37 (1st size) - see also at the right side of picture foot length (22 cm in first Size). Happy knitting!

Sacha Glasgow-Smith 10.12.2014 - 20:38:

Hello I am stuck on the first decrease once I have switched onto 4mm needles - I don't understand how I do the 20 stocking stitches at the same time as decreasing. Please can you help? Thank you

DROPS Design 11.12.2014 kl. 09:54:

Dear Mrs Glasgow-Smith, on 1st round on needles 4 mm, you work first 20 st in stocking st at the same time dec evenly 4-1 sts (see size), ie you will now get 16-19 st st over these 20 sts, then work P2, K4, P2 tog, K4, P2, and then above the next 22 sts, work in st st dec evenly 6-3 sts (= 16-19 sts remain over the 22 sts) = you should get 45-51 sts. Happy knitting!

Marij 08.12.2013 - 14:41:

Bij maat 35/37 staat bij het breien van het been dat er doorgegaan moet worden met 'breien en minderen'. Dit klopt niet, want er moet juist niet langer geminderd worden bij deze maat.

DROPS Design 11.12.2013 kl. 15:04:

Hoi Marij. Ik heb het originele patroon bekeken en je hebt helemaal gelijk! Het is aangepast. Bedankt voor het melden.

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