Fox Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and lace pattern in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”, ”Kid-Silk” and ”Glitter”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 150-7
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-047
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 98-112-128-142 cm / 38½”-44”-50½”-55¾”
Full length: 58-62-64-68 cm / 22¾”-24½”-25¼”-26¾”

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300 g, color no 8465, medium gray
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-125-125 g color no 10, gray
and use:
DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
4 spools for all sizes in color no 02, silver.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.90 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.30 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 2.10 $ /10g
DROPS Glitter colours DROPS Glitter colours 2.10 $ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Glitter gold & silver DROPS Glitter gold & silver 2.10 $ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern from RS. See diagram for size!

DECREASE TIP (applies to the body):
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row/round work YO twisted to avoid holes.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 168-192-216-240 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 strand Kid-Silk + 2 strands Glitter.
K1 round, P1 round.
Then work as follows: A.1 over all sts (= 12 repetitions in the round). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, insert 2 markers in piece; 1 after 7th-8th-9th-10th st and 1 after 91st-104th-117th-130th st (= 1 marker in each side, front/back piece = 84-96-108-120 sts). Then work in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3½-4-4½-5 cm / 1¼”-1½”-1¾”-2”, 3 more times (= 4 dec in total) = 152-176-200-224 sts. When piece measures 24-26-27-29 cm / 9½”-10¼”-10½”-11½”, inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3-3-2½-2 cm / 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”, 3 more times (= 4 inc in total) = 168-192-216-240 sts.
When piece measures 38-38-37-37 cm / 15”-15”-14½”-14½”, bind off 14-16-18-20 sts in each side for armhole (i.e. bind off 7-8-9-10 sts on each side of both markers) = 70-80-90-100 sts remain on back/front piece.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 42-48-54-60 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 strand Kid-Silk + 2 strands Glitter.
K1 round, P1 round.
Then work A.1 over all sts (= 3 repetitions in the round).
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stockinette st.
Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve).
When piece measures 8 cm / 3'', inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 5-4-3-2 cm / 2”-1½”-1 1/8”-3/4” 6-7-8-9 more times (= 7-8-9-10 inc in total) = 56-64-72-80 sts.
When piece measures 41-38-34-31 cm / 16”-15”-13½”-12¼” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), work A.1 over all sts (= 4 repetitions)- NOTE! Start first repeat of A.1 7-8-9-10 sts before the marker! On last round with A.1 bind off 14-16-18-20 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. bind off 7-8-9-10 sts on each side of marker) = 42-48-54-60 sts remain on needle (= 3 whole repetitions of A.1). Sleeve measures 46-44-41-39 cm / 18”-17¼”-16”-15¼”.
Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body = 224-256-288-320 sts. Work A.1 over all sts (= 16 repetitions in the round). When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, continue with A.2 over A.1. Continue the pattern like this. Switch to a shorter circular needle when needed. When A.2 has been worked, 96-128-160-192 sts remain on needle. K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 22-50-68-92 sts evenly = 74-78-92-100 sts. Then work an elevation at the back of neck as follows in stockinette st, insert 1 marker in middle st (= mid back), cut the yarn and beg here: K 7 sts past marker mid back, turn, tighten yarn and P 14 sts back, turn, tighten yarn and K 21 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 28 sts back. Continue like this - work 7 sts more on every turn until a total of 56-56-70-70 sts have been worked, turn and K 1 round until mid back again. Work 2 ridges in garter st. Bind off with K from RS. Yoke measures approx. 20-24-27-31 cm / 8”-9½”-10½”-12¼” (mid front) and entire jumper measures approx. 58-62-64-68 cm / 22¾”-24½”-25¼”-26¾”.


ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 05.09.2013
SLEEVE:
...
Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve).....

When piece measures 41-38-34-31 cm / 16”-15”-13½”-12¼” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), work A.1 over all sts (= 4 repetitions)- NOTE! Start first repeat of A.1 7-8-9-10 sts before the marker! On last round with A.1 bind off 14-16-18-20 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. bind off 7-8-9-10 sts on each side of marker) = 42-48-54-60 sts remain on needle...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 150-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (203)

country flag Tina wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei sapere usando la lana DROPS Aplaca gruppo A, se devo usare sempre due fili nella lavorazione del maglione, per una taglia M , e i ferri da usare sono quelli del modello quindi n5 o devo usare quelli riportati sul gomitolo quindi n3 grazie

30.10.2022 - 07:16

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Tina, DROPS Alpaca appartiene al gruppo filati A, quindi deve comunque lavorare con 2 fili e con un nunero di ferri che le permette di ottenere il campione indicato. Buon lavoro!

30.10.2022 kl. 10:08

country flag Françoise wrote:

Ah! oui j'ai compris, il s'agit de diminutions 😉

26.10.2022 - 16:43

country flag Françoise wrote:

Bonjour,ma question concerne le diagramme du dessin:au sommet de chaque motif aucun jeté n'est indiqué.Comment compense-t-on les 2 mailles manquantes après la double diminution du centre?

26.10.2022 - 16:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, cette double diminution n'est pas compensée sur ce tour, autrement dit, vous terminez le diagramme avec 6 mailles (S/M), 10 mailles (L/XL et XXL) ou 12 mailles (XXXL). Bon tricot!

26.10.2022 kl. 17:04

country flag Rosy wrote:

Dov’è il diagramma A1 e A2?

04.10.2022 - 12:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rosy, può trovare i diagrammi A.1 e A.2 scorrendo in fondo la pagina. Buon lavoro!

04.10.2022 kl. 19:39

country flag Stanislava wrote:

Hello, would you please explain in more details the: "slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso" and "1 YO between 2 sts" in the knitting instructions? Do you have video available for that technique? Thank you for the great patterns!

31.08.2022 - 13:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Stanislava, see our video showing how to slip 1 as if to K, K2 tog, psso and how to make a yarn over between 2 sts; ex. Row 1 in A.1: *P1, YO, K7, slip 1, K2 tog, passo, K7, YO*, repeat from *-*. Happy knitting!

31.08.2022 kl. 15:12

country flag Rosemarie Herrmann wrote:

Anleitung 150-7:Ab wann beginnt A. 2.?

25.02.2022 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Herrmann, bei der Passe stricken Sie zuerst A.1 dann stricken Sie A.2 - siehe RAGLAN (was hier nicht genau stimmt, da es keinen Raglan ist, das wird korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis) . Viel spaß beim stricken!

28.02.2022 kl. 08:51

country flag Maya wrote:

Zu diesem Modell habe ich eine Frage, und zwar; wie sieht der Ausschnitt am Rücken aus? Ist er nicht sehr tief, wenn man gleich wie Vorne einfach in Runden strickt? Kann mir das jemand beantworten, der dieses Modell schon gestrickt hat? Danke scho im voraus.

29.10.2021 - 18:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maya, ja, der Rückenausschnitt ist vergleichsweise tief, da er nicht höher gestrickt wird als der vordere Halsausschnitt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

30.10.2021 kl. 11:56

country flag Nicole wrote:

Ich sehe gerade, dass das Erklärvideo für die Zunahmen neben dem Markierer sich nicht mit der Beschreibung bei diesem Modell deckt. Da ist ein Umschlag angegeben, den ich, direkt nebeneinander, verschränkt stricken soll. Dann hätte ich ja ein riesen Loch. Vielleicht einmal korrigieren?

03.05.2021 - 20:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nicole, wenn Sie bei den Ärmel mit 1 Umschlag zunehmen, dann am besten stricken Sie die 2 Umschläge mit 2 Maschen dazwischen (= 1 Umschlag, 2 Maschen mit der Markierung zwischen diesen beiden Maschen), 1 Umschlag) und bei der nächsten Runde stricken Sie die Umschläge rechts verschränkt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.05.2021 kl. 07:46

country flag Nicole wrote:

Ich bin am Ärmelende und soll 14 M in der letzten A1 Runde abnehmen. Der Marker sitzt ja auf einer Masche, neben der ich vor A1 ja die Zunahmen gemacht habe. Zähle ich vor dieser Markermasche 7 M ab zum abnehmen und die markierte Masche ist dann die 8.?

02.05.2021 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nicole, die Markierung (wo Sie zugenommen haben) soll in der Mitte von dem 1. A.1 der Runde sein, Sie ketten jetzt die 14 Maschen von diesem 1. A.1 der Runde ab = 7 Maschen vor der Markierung + 7 Maschen nach der Markierung = 1. A.1 der Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.05.2021 kl. 08:44

country flag Cristina wrote:

Buona sera, avrei un’altra domanda sull’alzata. ho dovuto rimpicciolire i diagrammi perché troppi grandi per me, quindi ho fatto un diagramma A.1 che parte con 12 maglie e finisce in un diagramma A.2 con 4 maglie. Quindi alla fine dell’ultimo ferro del diagramma A.2 mi rimangono 64 maglie. Di quante maglie devo diminuire nel corso del ferro a dritto subito dopo il diagramma A.2? E in seguito, quante maglie dovrò lavorare in totale nella mia alzata? Grazie mille

18.04.2021 - 01:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cristina, purtroppo in questa sede non possiamo adattare le spiegazioni alle modifiche personali, ma può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

18.04.2021 kl. 18:12

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