DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Buttons
Beech wood No. 503

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

McDreamy

Knitted sweater with textured pattern and raglan sleeve for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS Baby 21-15
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-025-by
Yarn group A
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-64 (70-74) cm / 19¾"-22"-25¼" (27½"-29⅛")
Full length: 25-27-31 (35-39) cm / 9¾"-10⅝"-12¼" (13¾"-15¼")

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (150-200) g color no 11, ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") size 3 mm/US 2 or 3 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") size 2.5 mm/US 1 – for rib.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON LIGHT, no 503: 4 pcs.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

Baby Baby Jumpers bottom up raglan relief round neck seed st slit neckline

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Buttons
Beech wood No. 503

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 to M.3. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.

DECREASING TIP (applies to raglan):
FROM RS:
At beg of row: 1 edge st, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
At the end of row, beg when 3 sts remain: K2 tog, 1 edge st.
By the other 3 markers dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece, beg 3 sts before marker: K2 tog, K2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
FROM WS:
At beg of row: 1 edge st, P2 tog.
At the end of row, beg when 3 sts remain: P2 tog into back of loop, 1 edge st.
By the other 3 markers dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece, beg 3 sts before marker: P2 tog into back of loop, P2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), P2 tog.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------

BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 148-168-184 (204-216) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Baby Merino. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½" K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 28-32-32 (36-40) sts evenly = 120-136-152 (168-176) sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 60-68-76 (84-88) sts (= the sides). Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 14-15-18 (20-23) cm / 5½"-6"-7" (8"-9") work chart M.1 on all sts. After M.1 continue in chart M.2 on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-21 (24-27) cm / 6¾"-7"-8¼" (9½"-10⅝") work next round as follows: bind off 4 sts for armhole, work 52-60-68 (76-80) sts (= front piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 52-60-68 (76-80) sts (= back piece) and bind off the last 4 sts for armhole.
Cut the thread and put piece aside. Knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-48-52 (56-60) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Baby Merino. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½" K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-12-14 (16-16) sts evenly = 34-36-38 (40-44) sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 6 cm / 2⅜" inc 1 st on each side of marker.
SIZE 1/3 months + 6/9 months: Repeat the inc on every 4th round a total of 7-8 times.
SIZE 12/18 months + 2 years: Repeat the inc on every 4th and 5th round alternately a total of 9 (12) times.
SIZE 3/4 years: Repeat the inc on every 6th round a total of (12) times.
= 48-52-56 (64-68) sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13-14-17 (20-24) cm / 5⅛"-5½"-6¾" (8"-9½") work M.1.
After M.1 continue in M.2. When piece measures approx 16-17-20 (24-28) cm / 6¼"-6¾"-8" (9½"-11") – make sure to be on the same row in M.2 as on body piece – bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve (= 4 sts each side of marker) = 40-44-48 (56-60) sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bind off for armhole = 184-208-232 (264-280) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece and insert a marker mid front (= 26-30-34 (38-40) sts each side).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue back and forth on needle from the raglan on right front piece (when garment lies flat in front of you). Beg by casting/binding off 3 sts on each side of this raglan opening. Continue in M.2 with 1 edge st each side (make sure pattern continues from body piece and sleeves). After 6-6.5-7 (8-8.5) cm / 2⅜"-2½"-2¾" (3⅛"-3¼") of M.2 work M.3 and then complete piece in M.2.
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS dec 1 st for raglan on each side of all markers – SEE DECREASING TIP!
Repeat the dec on every other row a total of 13-15-16 (15-16) times and then on every row: 0-0-1 (6-7) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-26-30 (34-38) cm / 9½"-10¼"-11¾" (13⅜"-15") slip the middle 14-18-22 (22-22) sts on front piece (i.e. 7-9-11 (11-11) sts on each side of marker mid front) on a stitch holder for neck and complete each side separately. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time. After all dec for raglan and neck are complete there are approx 54-58-62 (62-62) sts left on needle and piece measures approx 28-30-34 (38-42) cm / 11"-11¾"-13⅜" (15"-16½") up to shoulder. Slip sts on a stitch holder and work the raglan edges before the neckline.

RAGLAN EDGE:
Pick up approx 24 to 36 sts (divisible by 4) inside 1 edge st along the raglan opening on sleeve on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Baby Merino. Work rib K2/P2 with 1 garter st and K2 each side (as seen from RS). When edge measures 2 cm / ¾" bind off with K over K and P over P.
Repeat along raglan opening on front piece, but after 2 rows make 3 buttonholes evenly (the last buttonholes is made on neck).
1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row.

NECK:
Slip sts from stitch holder mid front and on yoke back on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1, pick up approx 20 to 28 sts on each neckline at front and pick up 6 sts on each raglan edge with Baby Merino = approx 100 to 128 sts (divisible by 4). Work rib back and forth on needle from raglan opening as follows (as seen from RS): 1 garter st, * K2/P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 garter st. AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on raglan edge and when neck measures 4.5 cm / 1¾" make 1 buttonhole over the first one. Work another 2 rows and bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold neck double towards WS and fasten with neat sts. Sew raglan edges to bottom of raglan openings.
Sew openings under sleeves.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= P from RS, K from WS

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 12 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.
See more

McDreamy

Ana, Spain

McDreamy

Katja, Finland

McDreamy

Cecilia Maria Sala, Italy

McDreamy and Little Miss Ribbons

Stephanie, Switzerland

McDreamy

@sifpetrea, Denmark

McDreamy

Anna, Russian Federation

McDreamy in Baby Merino

Joanna, Poland

McDreamy Jumper

oliverabb, France

McDreamy

Ana, Spain

McDreamy

Katja, Finland

McDreamy

Cecilia Maria Sala, Italy

McDreamy and Little Miss Ribbons

Stephanie, Switzerland

McDreamy

@sifpetrea, Denmark

McDreamy

Anna, Russian Federation

McDreamy in Baby Merino

Joanna, Poland

McDreamy Jumper

oliverabb, France

Comments / Questions (507)

Javivi wrote:

Hola tendo una duda en esta parte. Luego de unir las mangas al cuerpo en esta parte que dice: Empezar rem 3 pts en cada lado de esta abertura del raglán. Se refiere a rematar 3 puntos al inicio (del cuerpo) y 3 pts en el final de la vuelta qué sería en las mangas?? Estoy super confundida de como tejer la pechera. Al unir todos los puntos del cuerpo y las mangas en la aguja redonda queda incómodo y tirante para tejer no se si lo estoy haciendo bien.

08.01.2025 - 02:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Javivi, sí, cierras 3 pts al inicio y final de la fila. Cuando tienes muchos puntos es más cómodo trabajar con una aguja redonda larga, que te permite repartir los puntos en el cable también, que con agujas rectas, donde el espacio queda limitado. Al principio las primeras filas quedan algo tirantes pero, a medida que continúes con el canesú, la labor se acomodará mejor y podrás trabajar más cómodamente.

12.01.2025 - 15:38

Anne-Marie Nielsen wrote:

Jeg har nu samlet ærmer og ryg/forstykke på en rundpind, men er nu kørt fast. Skal jeg nu strikke forstykket frem og tilbage og bagefter ryggen, hvis ja, hvor skal jeg starte og slutte på pinden/ærmerne? På forhånd tak for hjælpen.

18.12.2024 - 15:03

Hej Anne-Marie, du strikker hele stykket på en gang. Start ved åbningen, med at lukke de 6 masker af (ifølge opskriften, fortsæt over forstykket, ærmet, rygstykket, ærmet, nu er du ved åbningen, vender arbejdet og strikket tilbage - men husk raglanindtagningerne når du strikker frem og tilbage :)

20.12.2024 - 11:21

Shar wrote:

The writing in this pattern is the worst I've ever seen in two decades of knitting. Astounding. If you're planning to make this, ensure the hieroglyphics make sense to you first.

17.11.2024 - 20:15

Gail wrote:

I cannot achieve the M1 pattern as shown in the photograph. I get one apparent garter row from the first 2 rows indicated by the xxxxx (first row purl, second row knit), but then double garter for next 4 rows...so I have 1 garter, plain, then 2 garter rows. What am I doing incorrectly?

12.11.2024 - 12:03

Dear Gail, when working M.1 in the round, work as follows: Purl 2 rounds, knit 2 rounds, purl 2 rounds and knit 2 rounds. Hope this help. Happy knitting!

12.11.2024 - 15:53

Any help for how to prevent the jog when doing the M1 and M2 pattern (going from knit to purl row). Suggestions are using two skeins or yfd pw, slip first stitch when beginning the knit row. Or should I not worry because it’s under the armpit? Cheers, Gail

11.11.2024 - 10:36

Dear Gail, you can try to tighten the yarn somewhat more just at the transition to make the last stitch lined beside the first stitch of the round, but note that this shouldn't be visible when piece is done. Happy knitting!

11.11.2024 - 12:41

Frederique wrote:

Ik snap de beschrijving van de raglan bies niet: Brei boordsteek 2 st recht/2 st av met 1 ribbelst en 2 st recht aan iedere kant (gezien vanaf de goede kant). Ik snap dat het aantal steken deelbaar door 4 is vanwege de 2 bij 2 boordsteek. Maar dan wordt er aangegeven nog 1 steek ribbel en 2 steken recht. Is dat dan 3 steken extra? Zitten deze steken dan aan de oksel-of aan de halskant. Kan je aangeven hoeveel steken ik nu op de naald moet nemen en wat dan volgorde is?

07.11.2024 - 11:53

Denise wrote:

Hallo, nach 34cm Gesamtlänge habe ich 22M für den Halsausschnitt stillgelegt. Auf der rechten Nadel sind nur 4 Maschen. Bitte um KONKRETE Hilfe/Anleitung, wie hier bis 38cm weitergestrickt werden soll. Mit 4 Maschen, kann ich nicht in jeder Reihe abketten und Raglanabnahmen machen. Danke!

20.10.2024 - 21:37

Pia wrote:

Bare glem mit spørgsmål jeg har pudset brillerne og ser der står man tager i d efter ribben…..

15.09.2024 - 23:29

Mc Dreamy / Pia Toft Pederden wrote:

Der er noget galt med maskeantallet i ærmet. Når man feks starter med 56 masker skal tage 16 ud så giver det ikke 40 masker. Jeg skal bare være sikker på at det er det antal der skrives man skal tage ud der passe?

15.09.2024 - 22:03

Hej Pia. När ribben är klar tages det ind masker (ikke ud). Mvh DROPS Design

18.09.2024 - 13:47

Stefanie wrote:

Hallo Frage zur Passe: in der beschreibung steht -GLEICHZEITIG in der 1. R (nach dem Zusammensetzen der Ärmel- und Rumpfteil-Maschen) beidseitig jeder Markierung an allen Übergängen je 1 M abnehmen… muss ich nun die Abnahmen an den Ärmeln während des Aufnehmens machen oder erst die Ärmel aufnehmen und DANN die Abnahmen?

13.09.2024 - 16:00

Liebe Stefanie, für den Raglan wird man jede 2. Runde beim Rumpf sowie bei den Ärmeln abnehmen, so wird man jedes Mal 8 Maschen abnehmen (2 pro Ärmel/Vorder- und Rückenteil). Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

16.09.2024 - 07:49