DROPS Baby / 21 / 15

McDreamy by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with textured pattern and raglan sleeve for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS design: Pattern no BM-025-by
Yarn group A
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-64 (70-74) cm / 19 3/4"-22"-25 1/4" (27½"-29 1/8")
Full length: 25-27-31 (35-39) cm / 9 3/4"-10 5/8"-12 1/4" (13 3/4"-15 1/4")

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (150-200) g color no 11, ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3 mm/US 2 or 3 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 2.5 mm/US 1 – for rib.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON LIGHT, no 503: 4 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 to M.3. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.

DECREASING TIP (applies to raglan):
FROM RS:
At beg of row: 1 edge st, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
At the end of row, beg when 3 sts remain: K2 tog, 1 edge st.
By the other 3 markers dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece, beg 3 sts before marker: K2 tog, K2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
FROM WS:
At beg of row: 1 edge st, P2 tog.
At the end of row, beg when 3 sts remain: P2 tog into back of loop, 1 edge st.
By the other 3 markers dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece, beg 3 sts before marker: P2 tog into back of loop, P2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), P2 tog.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------

BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 148-168-184 (204-216) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Baby Merino. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'' K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 28-32-32 (36-40) sts evenly = 120-136-152 (168-176) sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 60-68-76 (84-88) sts (= the sides). Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 14-15-18 (20-23) cm / 5½"-6"-7" (8"-9") work chart M.1 on all sts. After M.1 continue in chart M.2 on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-21 (24-27) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4" (9½"-10 5/8") work next round as follows: bind off 4 sts for armhole, work 52-60-68 (76-80) sts (= front piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 52-60-68 (76-80) sts (= back piece) and bind off the last 4 sts for armhole.
Cut the thread and put piece aside. Knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-48-52 (56-60) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Baby Merino. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'' K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-12-14 (16-16) sts evenly = 34-36-38 (40-44) sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' inc 1 st on each side of marker.
SIZE 1/3 months + 6/9 months: Repeat the inc on every 4th round a total of 7-8 times.
SIZE 12/18 months + 2 years: Repeat the inc on every 4th and 5th round alternately a total of 9 (12) times.
SIZE 3/4 years: Repeat the inc on every 6th round a total of (12) times.
= 48-52-56 (64-68) sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13-14-17 (20-24) cm / 5 1/8"-5½"-6 3/4" (8"-9½") work M.1.
After M.1 continue in M.2. When piece measures approx 16-17-20 (24-28) cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-8" (9½"-11") – make sure to be on the same row in M.2 as on body piece – bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve (= 4 sts each side of marker) = 40-44-48 (56-60) sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bind off for armhole = 184-208-232 (264-280) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece and insert a marker mid front (= 26-30-34 (38-40) sts each side).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue back and forth on needle from the raglan on right front piece (when jumper is worn). Beg by casting/binding off 3 sts on each side of this raglan opening. Continue in M.2 with 1 edge st each side (make sure pattern continues from body piece and sleeves). After 6-6.5-7 (8-8.5) cm / 2 3/8"-2½"-2 3/4" (3 1/8"-3 1/4") of M.2 work M.3 and then complete piece in M.2.
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS dec 1 st for raglan on each side of all markers – SEE DECREASING TIP!
Repeat the dec on every other row a total of 13-15-16 (15-16) times and then on every row: 0-0-1 (6-7) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-26-30 (34-38) cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11 3/4" (13 3/8"-15") slip the middle 14-18-22 (22-22) sts on front piece (i.e. 7-9-11 (11-11) sts on each side of marker mid front) on a stitch holder for neck and complete each side separately. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time. After all dec for raglan and neck are complete there are approx 54-58-62 (62-62) sts left on needle and piece measures approx 28-30-34 (38-42) cm / 11"-11 3/4"-13 3/8" (15"-16½") up to shoulder. Slip sts on a stitch holder and work the raglan edges before the neckline.

RAGLAN EDGE:
Pick up approx 24 to 36 sts (divisible by 4) inside 1 edge st along the raglan opening on sleeve on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Baby Merino. Work rib K2/P2 with 1 garter st and K2 each side (as seen from RS). When edge measures 2 cm / 3/4'' bind off with K over K and P over P.
Repeat along raglan opening on front piece, but after 2 rows make 3 buttonholes evenly (the last buttonholes is made on neck).
1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row.

NECK:
Slip sts from stitch holder mid front and on yoke back on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1, pick up approx 20 to 28 sts on each neckline at front and pick up 6 sts on each raglan edge with Baby Merino = approx 100 to 128 sts (divisible by 4). Work rib back and forth on needle from raglan opening as follows (as seen from RS): 1 garter st, * K2/P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 garter st. AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on raglan edge and when neck measures 4.5 cm / 1 3/4'' make 1 buttonhole over the first one. Work another 2 rows and bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold neck double towards WS and fasten with neat sts. Sew raglan edges to bottom of raglan openings.
Sew openings under sleeves.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (387)

Nadja 12.10.2020 - 11:52:

Hallo, danke für die schnelle Antwort. Tippfehler, ich meinte 28 cm. Aber trotzdem: Wenn ich nach 24cm die 14 Maschen stilllegen und die Seiten separat fertig stricken soll, dabei bei der kleinsten Größe aber nur mehr 6 Maschen abnehmen soll (2x 2M und 2x 1M), erreiche ich doch nicht 28cm. Da bin ich nach 2 Reihen fertig, die Arbeit misst dann maximal 24,5 cm. Und dann soll ich bereits mit dem Hals anfangen?

DROPS Design 12.10.2020 kl. 13:26:

Liebe Nadja, ja natürlich, die 28 cm werden von der Anschlagskante bis zur Schulter gemessen, deshalb haben Sie weniger beim Vorderteil. Die beiden Vorderteile enden aber an der gleichen Stelle bzw Höhe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nadja 11.10.2020 - 21:27:

Hallo, eine letzte Frage zur kleinsten Größe: Ich soll nun beim Hals 100 Maschen aufnehmen, also 54 von der Rundstricknadel, 14 vom Hilfsfaden und jeweils 6 an den Blenden = 80M. Wo kommen die übrigen 20M her? Und dadurch, dass ich bis 58cm hochgestrickt habe, ist die Seite mit den Ärmeln und dem Rückenteil viel höher als das Vorderteil - ist das korrekt? Und kommt das 5te Knopfloch daher, dass das Bündchen dann doppelt gelegt wird? Und wo nähe ich die Halshante links an? DANKE!

DROPS Design 12.10.2020 kl. 08:40:

Liebe Nadja, die Arbeit soll ca 28 cm messen von der Anschlagskante bis zur Schulter, nicht 58 cm. - Sie sollten die selben Reihenanzahl am Vorderteil auf beiden Seiten vom Halsausschnitt haben. Die 20 Maschen werden beidseitig von den 14 stillgelgten Maschen am Halsausschnitt aufgefassen: 54 + 14 + 10 + 10 + 6+6= 100 M. Wenn Sie weniger Maschen haben, können Sie gerne bei der 1. Reihe regelmäßig zunehmen. Im Zweifelsfall können Sie immer Ihr Strickstück Ihren Laden zeigen (auch ein Foto per E-Mail senden), so kann man Ihnen am besten weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nadja 06.10.2020 - 15:44:

Hallo, ich hätte noch eine Frage zur Rundpasse: ich soll nun 14 M stilllegen und die Seiten separat fertig stricken. Was genau sind nun die erwähnten Seiten? Ich habe auf der Rundstricknadel 2 M, dann 14 stillgelegte M und dann die restlichen 58 M. Nehme ich dann bei der Abnahme vom Halsausschnitt (1 Mal 2M, 1Mal 1M in Hin- und Rückreihe) genau jene beiden M ab, die vor den 14 stillgelegten M liegen, also quasi die ersten beiden M bevor in die 14 M stilllege?

DROPS Design 06.10.2020 kl. 17:05:

Liebe Nadja, die beiden Seiten sind unten erklârt, wenn Sie die mitlteren Maschen beim Vorderteil stilllegen, haben Sie noch Maschen rechts und links von diesen stillgelegten Maschen, davon einige werden für den Halsausschnitt noch abgekettet und die Raglanabnahmen stricken Sie auch wie zuvor. Je nach der Grösse haben Sie vielleicht auch nicht so viele Maschen übrig, aber doch werden Sie separat gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nadja 06.10.2020 - 13:58:

... Werden die 14M überhaupt gestrickt, während ich bis 28cm hocharbeite und erst dann beim Hals wieder aufgenommen? Danke!

DROPS Design 06.10.2020 kl. 15:10:

Liebe Nadja,auf einer Seite haben Sie die Maschen von nur Vorderteil und auf der anderen Seite von den stillgelgten Maschen haben Sie die restlichen maschen von Vorderteil + Ärmel, Rückenteil, Ärmel. Diese 14 Maschen stricken Sie wieder, erst wenn Sie die Halsblendestricken - siehe HALS. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nadja 06.10.2020 - 13:57:

Hallo, ich hätte noch eine Frage zur Rundpasse: ich soll nun 14 M stilllegen und die Seiten separat fertig stricken. Was genau sind nun die erwähnten Seiten? Ich habe auf der Rundstricknadel 2 M, dann 14 stillgelegte M und dann die restlichen 58 M. Nehme ich dann bei der Abnahme vom Halsausschnitt (1 Mal 2M, 1Mal 1M in Hin- und Rückreihe) genau jene beiden M ab, die vor den 14 stillgelegten M liegen, also quasi die ersten beiden M bevor in die 14 M stilllege? und was passiert mit den 14 M?

Nadja 30.09.2020 - 16:38:

Hallo, danke für die schnelle Antwort. Nur um sicher zu gehen: eine Reihe meint jetzt alle 184 Maschen (in der ersten Reihe). Ich stricke also vom Armloch des Ärmels weg und beende die Reihe auf der anderen Seite des selben Ärmels oder? Und in der Anleitung steht "von der Raglanöffnung auf der vorderen rechten Seite.." - wenn ich die Reihe nun beginne, beginne ich doch auf der linken vorderen Seite, oder nicht? Danke vorab!

DROPS Design 01.10.2020 kl. 09:58:

Liebe Nadja, die 1. Reihe der Passe stricken Sie von dem Vorderteil bis zur 2. Ärmel (= 184 M), am Anfang dieser 1. Reihe ketten Sie 3 M ab und nehmen Sie für den Raglan ab, am Anfang nächster Reihe (2. Reihe bzw 1. Rückreihe der Passe) ketten Sie 3 M ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nadja 30.09.2020 - 07:23:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu der Rundpasse. Ich stricke die kleinste Größe und habe soeben alle 184 Maschen auf die Rundstricknadel gelegt. Nun soll ich von der „Raglanöffnung“ auf der vorderen rechten Seite (wenn man die Arbeit anzieht) her hin und zurück stricken. Bedeutet dass, dass ich nun nicht mehr in Runden stricke sondern eigentlich eher mit einem Nadelspiel arbeiten sollte? Ansonsten ist die Anleitung super, nur jetzt komme ich nicht weiter. Vielen Dank vorab! LG Nadja

DROPS Design 30.09.2020 kl. 08:30:

Liebe Nadja, ja genau, die Passe wird Hin und Zurück gestrickt, bei der 1. Reihe ketten Sie die ersten 3 M ab, stricken Sie (wie erklärt) bis zur Ende der Reihe, wenden Sie und am Anfang nächster Reihe (= Rückreihe) ketten Sie die 3 ersten Maschen ab = diese 3 M sind für die Raglanblende. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Rosie 28.09.2020 - 13:16:

I've got to the 10 1/4" for 6-9 months size. Now very confused what stitches am i working on to complete the 2 sides separately? Just the arm stitches?

DROPS Design 28.09.2020 kl. 14:33:

Dear Rose, you now slip the middle 18 sts on front piece for neck on a thread/st holder and continue each side separately, one side will be quite short with just a few sts for raglan/front piece and the other one will be the other side of neck to the other raglan opening. You will now work raglan decrease as before and at the same time now cast off at the beg of row starting from neck (one one side of neck from RS/on the other side of neck from WS). Happy knitting!

Agnieszka 14.09.2020 - 19:42:

Dzień dobry Jak pisałam wykonałam już wszystkie 13 zamknięć. Gdybym wykonała jeszcze jedno zostanie mi tylko 49 oczek...

DROPS Design 15.09.2020 kl. 18:24:

Witaj Agnieszko, nie dojdziemy gdzie była pomyłka. Zamknij oczka na dekolt zgodnie z opisem i pozostałą część przerób prosto, zamykając te 3 nadplanowe oczka tak aby to nie było widoczne. Koniecznie podziel się zdjęciem sweterka na naszym facebooku, albo na stronie. Pozdrawiamy!

Agnieszka 12.09.2020 - 20:45:

Robię najmniejszy model. Jestem w momencie, kiedy mam 24 cm od dołu robótki, zamknęłam już wszystkie 13xo. na raglan co 2 rząd i wg opisu mam już więcej nie zamykać oczek. Nie rozumiem części po przełożeniu dekoltu na drut pomocniczy - żeby zamknąć 1x 2o. i 1 x 1o. na początku rzędy wystarczy zrobić cztery rzędy tam i z powrotem, jak więc mam uzyskać końcowo 28 cm długości sweterka? Dodatkowo po tych zamknięciach zostanie mi na drutach 57 oczek zamiast 54.

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 16:15:

Witaj Agnieszko, brakuje jeszcze raz zamknięcia oczek na reglan. W opisie jest zaznaczone, że jak przekładasz oczka na dekolt na drut pomocniczy, to jednocześnie są jeszcze zamykane oczka na reglan. Pozdrawiamy!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 21-15

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.