DROPS Baby / 21 / 15

McDreamy by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with textured pattern and raglan sleeve for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS design: Pattern no BM-025-by
Yarn group A
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 11, ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.


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100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 to M.3. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.
DECREASING TIP (applies to raglan):
At beg of row: 1 edge st, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
At the end of row, beg when 3 sts remain: K2 tog, 1 edge st.
By the other 3 markers dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece, beg 3 sts before marker: K2 tog, K2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
At beg of row: 1 edge st, P2 tog.
At the end of row, beg when 3 sts remain: P2 tog into back of loop, 1 edge st.
By the other 3 markers dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece, beg 3 sts before marker: P2 tog into back of loop, P2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), P2 tog.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 148-168-184 (204-216) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures 4 cm K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 28-32-32 (36-40) sts evenly = 120-136-152 (168-176) sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 60-68-76 (84-88) sts (= the sides). Change to circular needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 14-15-18 (20-23) cm work diagram M.1 on all sts. After M.1 continue in diagram M.2 on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-21 (24-27) cm work next round as follows: cast off 4 sts for armhole, work 52-60-68 (76-80) sts (= front piece), cast off 8 sts for armhole, work 52-60-68 (76-80) sts (= back piece) and cast off the last 4 sts for armhole.
Cut the thread and put piece aside. Knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-48-52 (56-60) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures 4 cm K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-12-14 (16-16) sts evenly = 34-36-38 (40-44) sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and continue in stocking st. When piece measures 6 cm inc 1 st on each side of marker.
SIZE 1/3 months + 6/9 months: Repeat the inc on every 4th round a total of 7-8 times.
SIZE 12/18 months + 2 years: Repeat the inc on every 4th and 5th round alternately a total of 9 (12) times.
SIZE 3/4 years: Repeat the inc on every 6th round a total of (12) times.
= 48-52-56 (64-68) sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13-14-17 (20-24) cm work M.1. After M.1 continue in M.2. When piece measures approx 16-17-20 (24-28) cm – make sure to be on the same row in M.2 as on body piece – cast off 8 sts mid under sleeve (= 4 sts each side of marker) = 40-44-48 (56-60) sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armhole = 184-208-232 (264-280) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece and insert a marker mid front (= 26-30-34 (38-40) sts each side).
Continue back and forth on needle from the raglan on right front piece (when jumper is worn). Beg by casting off 3 sts on each side of this raglan opening. Continue in M.2 with 1 edge st each side (make sure pattern continues from body piece and sleeves). After 6-6.5-7 (8-8.5) cm of M.2 work M.3 and then complete piece in M.2.
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS dec 1 st for raglan on each side of all markers – SEE DECREASING TIP!
Repeat the dec on every other row a total of 13-15-16 (15-16) times and then on every row: 0-0-1 (6-7) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-26-30 (34-38) cm slip the middle 14-18-22 (22-22) sts on front piece (i.e. 7-9-11 (11-11) sts on each side of marker mid front) on a stitch holder for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time. After all dec for raglan and neck are complete there are approx 54-58-62 (62-62) sts left on needle and piece measures approx 28-30-34 (38-42) cm up to shoulder.
Slip sts on a stitch holder and work the raglan edges before the neckline.

Pick up approx 24 to 36 sts (divisible by 4) inside 1 edge st along the raglan opening on sleeve on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Work rib K2/P2 with 1 garter st and K2 each side (as seen from RS). When edge measures 2 cm cast off with K over K and P over P.
Repeat along raglan opening on front piece, but after 2 rows make 3 buttonholes evenly (the last buttonholes is made on neck). 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row.

Slip sts from stitch holder mid front and on yoke back on circular needle size 2.5 mm, pick up approx 20 to 28 sts on each neckline at front and pick up 6 sts on each raglan edge with Baby Merino = approx 100 to 128 sts (divisible by 4). Work rib back and forth on needle from raglan opening as follows (as seen from RS): 1 garter st, * K2/P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 garter st. AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on raglan edge and when neck measures 4.5 cm make 1 buttonhole over the first one. Work another 2 rows and cast off with K over K and P over P.

Fold neck double towards WS and fasten with neat sts. Sew raglan edges to bottom of raglan openings.
Sew openings under sleeves.
Sew on buttons.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (406)

Irene 07.03.2021 - 23:40:

Perdona, no termino de entenderlo. Si no me equivoco, para talla 6/9 al unir las mangas tenemos los siguientes puntos (comenzando desde la abertura): MP1 + 30 pts del frente + MP2 + 30 pts del frente + MP3 + 44 pts de manga izquierda + MP4 + 60 pts de la espalda + MP5 + 44 pts de manga derecha. Al rematar los 3 primeros pts, el MP1 (raglán delantero derecho) estaría a 27 pts del MP2, mientras que MP3 (raglán delantero izquierdo) está a 30 pts del MP2. ¿Es correcto? Gracias.

Irene 06.03.2021 - 21:21:

Una vez deslizas las mangas junto al cuerpo, en los 8 puntos que ya se remataron, se sigue de ida y vuelta a partir del raglán delantero derecho. Para ello, lo primero es "rem 3 pts en cada lado de esa abertura del raglán". Mi duda es, al cerrar estos puntos, los raglanes delanteros no quedan a la misma distancia del centro del frente, ¿no? Para talla 6/9, el raglán delantero derecho está a 27 puntos del centro del frente, mientras que el izquierdo está a 30 puntos. Gracias

DROPS Design 07.03.2021 kl. 20:22:

Hola Irene, el patrón es correcto, los 3 pts que cerramos los compensamos luego haciendo una cenefa para la abertura.

Olga 04.03.2021 - 14:58:


DROPS Design 04.03.2021 kl. 15:22:

Hola Olga, en la talla 1/3 hay las disminuciones en cada vuelta por el lado derecho, tienes que repetirlas 13 veces . Buen trabajo!

Olga Pacheco 04.03.2021 - 11:27:

¿En la parte del raglán las disminuciones en vueltas alternas significa que en cada vuelta de derecho disminuyo pero en las de revés no hay disminución?

DROPS Design 04.03.2021 kl. 14:52:

Hola Olga, que es la talla que haces?

Marta 23.02.2021 - 12:23:

(część 2). Następnie jestem znów na prawej stronie i zaczynam od jednego oczka brzegowego, ściegiem francuskim. Kiedy dochodzę do pierwszego reglana to zamykam oczka jak w opisie. Tę czynność powtarzam w sumie 3 razy. Czy jakieś zamykanie oczek też robię w miejscu początku i końca, czy skoro tam będzie część z guzikami to tylko te pierwsze zamknięcie 6 oczek jest wystarczające? Mam nadzieję, że moje pytania są zrozumiałe. Dziękuję!

DROPS Design 23.02.2021 kl. 18:16:

Tak rozumiem: na początku i na końcu rzędu także zamykasz oczka zgodnie z opisem w części ZAMYKANIE OCZEK (reglan), tam także musisz mieć skosy. Pozdrawiam serdecznie i miłej pracy

Marta 23.02.2021 - 12:16:

(część 1) Cześć, to mój pierwszy sweter i nie rozumiem do końca wzoru. Czy to jest poprawne. Przenoszę wszystko na te same druty i zaczynam na prawej stronie w miejscu wykropkowanym jak na schemacie. Zaczynam od zamknięcia 3 o. Przerabiam przód wzorem, następnie łączę pierwszy rękaw jak na filmie pomocniczym. Następnie przerabiam tylną część, łączę drugi rękaw i kończę. Wracam na lewą stronę, zamykam 3 o. I przerabiam do końca. Czy to jest poprawne?

DROPS Design 23.02.2021 kl. 18:10:

Cześć Marto, dobrze zrozumiałaś, jest to jak najbardziej poprawne. Przechodzę do części 2 :)

Tiziana 17.02.2021 - 21:21:

Buona sera..sto realizzando questo capo nella misura 12/18 mesi...ho un problema nell'inserire le maniche nel ferro dove ho il corpo..1)ho fatto le maniche separate con 2 gomitoli...2)ho tagliato il filo alla fine del corpo ed ora...utilizzo un filo delle maniche per collegare il tutto ???...3)sul ferro nel quale devo collegare le maniche e il corpo continuo con lo schema M2???..grazie

DROPS Design 18.02.2021 kl. 21:55:

Buonasera Tiziana, può lavorare con un nuovo capo nel momento in cui unisce le maniche e continua la lavorazione di M.2. Buon lavoro!

Pavla 11.02.2021 - 13:18:

Dobrý den, pletu svetřík ve velikosti 12/18 měsíců a nevím si moc rády. Práce teď měří 30cm, odložila jsem si 22 ok pro průkrčník. Tím mi ale pro jednu z náramenic zbyly 4 oka a pro druhou zbytek svetříku. Neudělala jsem někde chybu? Po skončení tvarování by na jehlici mělo zůstat asi 62 ok, ale mě jich už teď zbývá jen 57 (nepočítám ty odložené na pomocnou jehlici).

Andrea 29.12.2020 - 17:08:

Kann es sein, dass die Skizze beim Halsausschnitt nicht richtig ist? Der Halsausschnitt wird doch nur vorne gestrickt?!? Am Rückenteil wird doch ohne Abnahmen glatt hochgestrickt? Die Skizze lässt vermuten, dass auch am Rückenteil ein Ausschnitt gestrickt wird.

DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 11:50:

Liebe Andrea, ja genau, die Skizze ist hier standard, folgen Sie die Anleitung wie beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tamara 13.12.2020 - 14:55:

Ik loop vast bij deze zin over de pas: "Kant af voor de hals aan het begin van iedere nld vanaf middenvoor: 1 x 2 st en 1 x 1 st." 1. Ik snap niet precies hoe vaak ik moet minderen. 2. En alleen middenvoor of ook bij de raglan aan de andere kant? 3. En moet ik het deel vóór de steken op de hulpdraad apart breien van het deel ná de steken op de hulpdraad? Alvast hartelijk dank!

DROPS Design 17.12.2020 kl. 23:24:

Dag Tamara,

Wanneer je de naald begint bij midden voor kant je eerst 2 steken af, je breit de naald uit en weer terug, dan weer vanaf midden voor 1 steek en daarna nogmaals 1 steek. Dit doe je aan beide kanten vanaf midden voor, dus aan de rechter en de linker kant. Je breit beide delen inderdaad apart van elkaar, zodat er een opening blijft bij de raglan.

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