DROPS Baby / 21 / 36

Cozy and Cute by DROPS Design

Knitted pants for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

Tags: beginner, pants,
  • Cozy and Cute / DROPS Baby 21-36 - Knitted pants for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-042-by
Yarn group A
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-150 (150-150) g color no 02, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 2.5 mm/ US 1or2 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 2 mm/ US 0 - for rib.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Beg 2 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Worked in the round from the waist down.
Cast on 142-150-160 (166-172) sts on circular needle size 2 mm/US 0 with off white - beg of round = mid back. Work rib K 1/P 1 until rib measures 4 cm / 1½''. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-18-22 (22-22) sts evenly = 126-132-138 (144-150) sts.
ELEVATION AT THE BACK: Now work in stockinette st while at the same time working an elevation in the back as follows: Work 10-11-11 (12-12) sts from beg of round, turn piece (to avoid holes, slip first st on return and tighten the thread). Work 20-22-22 (24-24) sts and turn piece. Work 30-33-33 (36-36) sts and turn piece. Work 40-44-44 (48-48) sts and turn piece. Continue like this by working 10-11-11 (12-12) sts more on every turn 8 more times (= 12 short rows). Then continue in stockinette st in the round over all sts.
INCREASES: When piece measures 13-16-17 (18-19) cm / 5 1/8"-6 1/4"-6 3/4" (7"-7½") from the waist (measured mid front), insert a marker at the beg of round and a marker after 63-66-69 (72-75) sts (marks mid front and mid back of pants). Then inc 1 st on each side of these markers (= 4 sts inc per round) on every 3rd round a total of 6 times = 150-156-162 (168-174) sts. After last inc piece measures approx. 18-21-22 (23-24) cm / 7"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" (9"-9½") from the waist (measures mid front).

Work 75-78-81 (84-87) sts – beg working mid back and slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder. Work in the round on double pointed needles - insert a marker on the inside of leg = beg of round.
Then dec 1 st on each side of marker – READ DECREASE TIP: a total of 14-13-12 (11-10) times in
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: Alternately every other and 3rd round,
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: Alternately every 3rd and 4th round,
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: Alternately every 4th and 5th round,
SIZE 2 YEARS: Alternately every 6th and 7th round,
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: Alternately every 9th and 10th round = 47-52-57 (62-67) sts.
When piece measures approx. 31-37-40 (46-53) cm / 12 1/4"-14½"-15 3/4" (18"-21") from the waist, switch to double pointed needles size 2 mm/ US 0. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 11-12-13 (16-17) sts evenly = 58-64-70 (78-84) sts. Then work rib = K 1/P 1 until pants measures 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4") from the waist (rib measures approx. 5-5-6 (6-6) cm / 2"-2"-2 3/8" (2 3/8"-2 3/8")). Loosely bind off all sts with K over K and P over P.
Work the other leg the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.10.2016
New amount of yarn for size 12/18 months. Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio 100-100-150 (150-150) g colour no 02, off white


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (73)

country flag Susanne Pawelzik 09.07.2021 - 10:53:

Ich möchte mit einem Bein beginnen und habe 75 Maschen, wie verteile ich diese auf einem Ndelspiel

user icon DROPS Design 09.07.2021 kl. 16:40:

Liebe Frau Pawelzik, Sie können z. B. diese 75 Maschen auf 3 Maschen = je 25 Maschen verteilen und mit der 4. Nadeln stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Kimberly 28.03.2021 - 15:53:

I haven’t begun knitting this yet, but I read through it. I expected instructions for the crotch (like casting on stitches, sewing up the seam, knitting a gusset, etc) but there was no mention of it. Does closing the round on each leg close up the crotch also, or is it actually seamed later?

user icon DROPS Design 28.03.2021 kl. 17:48:

Dear Kimberly, the trousers are worked in one piece, No caston/off stitches, but stitches increased at the mid front / mid back to account for shaping for the buttocks, then the stitches separated for the two legs, and some stitches decreased to shape the legs,. Happy Knitting!

country flag Lia Groeneveld 17.02.2021 - 21:35:

In het patroon staat:(voor maat 6/9)plaats bij een hoogte van17 cm vanaf de taille gemeten een markeerder. Is dit dan gemeten vanaf het begin van het werk(dus inclusief boord?)Of brei ik 17 cm exclusief boord (dus totaal 21 cm/)

user icon DROPS Design 18.02.2021 kl. 09:18:

Dag Lia,

Ja, dat is inderdaad gemeten vanaf de opzet

country flag Vanessa 21.09.2020 - 17:49:

Merci pour votre réponse rapide !! 😊

country flag Vanessa 20.09.2020 - 09:04:

Bonjour 👋 Je voulais savoir s'il faut bien tricoter jusqu'à 16 cm, à partir des côtes pour la séparation des jambes ou 17 cm comme mis sur le diagramme ? Merci d'avance.

user icon DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 13:41:

Bonjour Vanessa, dans la 2ème taille, vous tricotez jusqu'à 16 cm depuis le rang de montage (y compris les 4 cm de côtes) et augmentez comme indiqué et quand l'ouvrage mesure 21 cm (y compris les 4 cm de côtes = 17 cm après les côtes), vous divisez pour les jambes. Bon tricot!

country flag Amie 17.07.2020 - 19:38:

Hi, I would like to substitute the baby merino wool for drops alaska wool as my mother in law will knit this as a nappy cover, and the wool must be 100% wool and not superwash. I'm having trouble understanding the wool conversion though, so would you be able to let me know how to adapt the pattern to work with drops alaska please?

user icon DROPS Design 20.07.2020 kl. 08:43:

Dear Amie, Alaska is yarn group C while this pattern is worked with one strand yarn group A - this means Alaska wouldn't be there an alternative without recalculate the whole pattern - use our yarn converter to see alternatives and click on the yarns suggested to read more about them - and/or contact your DROPS store for any individual assistance choosing a yarn. Happy knitting!

country flag Cécile 15.07.2020 - 19:45:

Ik begin net aan de eerste broekspijp en snap niet hoe ik moet minderen. Bij maat 1/3 staat: "afwisselend elke 2e en 3e naald". Betekent dit dat ik de 1e naald 'gewoon' brei, en in de 2e naald minder, de 3e en 4e naald 'gewoon' brei en dan de 5e naald minder, etc.? Als deze redenering klopt, dan wordt mijn broekspijp vrij kort, namelijk ongeveer 9 cm, terwijl de rest van mijn werk wel in verhouding is. Of maak ik een denkfout?

user icon DROPS Design 20.07.2020 kl. 09:41:

Dag Cécile,

Afwisselend elke 2e en 3e naald betekent dat je 2 naalden breit en in de 2e naald mindert, dan brei je 3 naalden en minder je in de 3e naald, dan weer 2 naalden en minder je in de 2e naald, etc. Dus inderdaad zoals je hierboven omschrijft. Vanaf het kruis tot de boord bij de enkel zou de broekspijp in maat 1/3 ongeveer 13 cm moeten zijn. Als het niet uitkomt met de lengte kan je de minderingen ietsje anders verdelen, bijv. door iedere 3e naald te minderen.

country flag Lenka 03.07.2020 - 12:42:

U modelu je špatně uvedený materiál :-(

user icon DROPS Design 04.07.2020 kl. 17:24:

Milá Lenko, díky za upozornění - opraveno! Hana

country flag Hanna 16.04.2020 - 19:25:

Ik ben nu met het eerste pijpje bezig, maar de naad sluit niet mooi aan aan de binnenkant. Ik gebruik nu 3+1 naalden. Sluit dit wel mooi als ik 4+1 naalden gebruik? Of is hier een trucje voor?

user icon DROPS Design 25.04.2020 kl. 21:23:

Dag Hanna,

Het zou op zich niks uit moeten maken als je op 4+1 of op 3+1 in de rondte breit. Beide keren zou je geen naad moeten zien. Je kan wel proberen of dit voor jou beter uitpakt. Als je bij het rondbreien wisselt van naald, moet je misschien de draad wat steviger aantrekken?

country flag Hildur Maria 10.04.2020 - 15:23:

Hi all, I am knitting size 1-3 months and now I have been decreasing the leg of the pants as to the pattern (every 2 vs. 3rd row), but is it really 14 times? Also, what happens next? It does not say "Knit further without decreasing until you knit the rib ." Is it so? Hope you can clarify.

user icon DROPS Design 10.04.2020 kl. 17:14:

Blessuð Hildur María. Stærð 1-3 mán: Eftir að úrtaka hefur verið gerð til skiptis í annarri og 3. hverri umferð er prjónað þar til stykkið mælist 31 cm frá mitti, þá er skipt yfir á sokkaprjón 2 og prjónuð 1 umferð slétt JAFNFRAMT því sem aukið er út um 11 lykkjur jafnt yfir = 58 lykkjur. Síðan er stroffið prjónað 1 lykkja slétt, 1 lykkja brugðið þar til buxurnar mælast 36 cm frá mitt, stroffið mælist þá ca 5 cm. Fellið laust af í stroffprjóni. Vona að þetta hafi hjálpað og gangi þér vel.

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