DROPS Baby / 21 / 16

McDreamy Booties by DROPS Design

Knitted booties with lace pattern for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

Tags: lace, socks,
  • McDreamy Booties / DROPS Baby 21-16 - Knitted booties with lace pattern for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-039-by
---------------------------------------------------------
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2- 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5½''-6¼'')

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50-100-100 (100-100) g color no 14, steel blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 – or size needed to get 22 sts in garter st = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 (for rib).

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – Diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.
---------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------

BOOTEE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-52-52 (56-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with Merino Extra Fine.
Work rib, K1/P1 – round beg mid back.
When piece measures 4-5-5 (5-6) cm / 1½"-2"-2" (2"-2 3/8") K3 tog (= K1, P1, K1) mid back, work 4 rounds rib, then P3 tog (= P1, K1, P1) mid back = 44-48-48 (52-52) sts.
Continue in rib.
When piece measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5 1/8''-5½'') change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4.
K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME dec 7 sts evenly = 37-41-41 (45-45) sts.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Now slip the first 14-15-15 (16-16) sts on a stitch holder, keep the next 9-11-11 (13-13) sts on needle (= mid upper foot) and slip the remaining 14-15-15 (16-16) sts on a stitch holder.
Continue as follows back and forth on 9-11-11 (13-13) sts on upper foot:
K 2 rows starting from RS.
Then continue like this: 1 garter st, 1-2-2 (3-3) stockinette sts, chart M.1 (= 5 sts), 1-2-2 (3-3) stockinette sts and 1 garter st.
Continue in pattern like this:
NOTE: in SIZE 1/3 months and 6/9 months work 2 vertical repeats of M.1, in SIZE 12/18 months and 2 years work 3 vertical repeats and in SIZE 3/4 years work 4 vertical repeats.

When piece on upper foot measures 3.5-4-5 (6.5-7.5) cm / 1 1/4"-1½"-2" (2½"-2 7/8") – adjust to after at least 2 rows stockinette st after the last repeat of M.1 - pick up 8-9-11 (14-16) sts each side of upper piece and slip sts from stitch holders back on needle = 53-59-63 (73-77) sts.
Continue in garter st on all sts in the round for 1.5-2-2.5 (3-3.5) cm / ½"-3/4"-7/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/4"), then P 1 round.
Bind off all sts except the middle 9-11-11 (13-13) at front of bootee. Work garter st for 9-10-11 (13-15) cm / 3½"-4"-4 3/8" (5 1/8"-6") on these sts for sole.
Bind off and sew sole to the bootee – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Make the other bootee in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Waltraud Gruber 16.06.2020 - 15:48:

Danke, ich werde es versuchen

country flag Waltraud Gruuber 16.06.2020 - 12:20:

Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort, aber ich verstehe sie immer noch nicht. Beispiel: 52 Ma. Anschlag, wo ist dann hier die hintere Mitte. Danke

user icon DROPS Design 16.06.2020 kl. 13:38:

Liebe Frau Gruuber, die hintere Mitte ist vor der 1. der 52 Maschen = die 1. Masche ist Anfang der Runde und hintere Mitte. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Waltraud Gruber 16.06.2020 - 01:45:

Wo beginnt die hintere Mitte bei dieser Anleitung. Vorab vielen Dank. Waltraud Gruber

user icon DROPS Design 16.06.2020 kl. 09:09:

Liebe Frau Gruber, die Runde beginnen hinten in der Mitte. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Ruth Rojas 30.04.2020 - 02:45:

Si quisiera usar palillos rectos como deberia hacerlo o me podrian dar el link de como encontrar este modelo usando este tipoffs de palillos Muchas gracias.

user icon DROPS Design 30.04.2020 kl. 23:49:

Hola Ruth. Este patrón se trabaja en redondo y por eso se utiliza una aguja circular, que se puede sustituir por un juego de agujas para tejer calcetines.

country flag Nunes 18.05.2019 - 13:12:

Les explications du dessus du pied ne sont pas tres clair ily a 9 mailles sur le diagramme 5 mailles plus 1 maille de chaque coté ? 5+2 7 ET NON 9

user icon DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 10:09:

Bonjour Mme Nunes, il manquait effectivement la description de cette partie, on va tricoter ces 9 mailles ainsi: 1 m point mousse, 1 m jersey, M.1 (= 5 m), 1 m jersey, 1 m point mousse - la correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!

country flag Véronique 26.05.2017 - 18:04:

Ces chaussons sont vraiment très mignons et plaisent énormément à chaque fois que j'en offre . De plus ils tiennent bien au pied . Merci pour les explications de ce très beau modèle .

country flag Alice 05.01.2015 - 10:47:

Liebes Team, Ich hänge an folgender Stelle fest: mit mindestens 2 R. glatt nach dem 1. Rapport in M1 auf beiden Seiten des Fussrückens je 8-9-11 (14-16) M. aufnehmen Ich verstehe nicht, was ich nun stricken soll? Soll ich mit einem neuen Faxen re und li die neuen Maschen aufnehmen oder soll ich 2 reihen re stricken?? Vielen lieben dank

user icon DROPS Design 11.01.2015 kl. 16:28:

Den oberen Teil (Fußrücken) müssen Sie so weit stricken, dass mindestens 2 R glatt re nach dem Muster gestrickt wurden. Erst dann fassen Sie die M rechts und links auf und legen dazwischen die stillgelegten M zurück auf die Nadel.

country flag Eva 06.08.2013 - 22:41:

Förstår inte storlekarna riktigt... 0/3 mån med en fotlängd på 10 cm? Blir ju jättestort!!

country flag Hanne Breivik 01.02.2013 - 16:52:

Rillen som skal være mellom vrangborden og overstykket M.1. mangler i oppskriften.

user icon DROPS Design 12.03.2013 kl. 21:36:

Det havde du helt ret i. Vi har rettet opskriften. Tak.

Hanne Overby 17.06.2012 - 20:28:

I Opskriften savner jeg retstrik før mønstret på oversiden af foden. Tak på forhånd for hjælp. Venlig hilsen Hanne Overby.

user icon DROPS Design 28.12.2012 kl. 10:50:

Det er med i mønstret. Se mit svar herunder.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 21-16

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.