DROPS Baby / 21 / 24

Blueberry by DROPS Design

Set of knitted socks, pants and jacket with round yoke and blackberry pattern for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

  • Blueberry / DROPS Baby 21-24 - Set of knitted socks, pants and jacket with round yoke and blackberry pattern for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca
  • Blueberry / DROPS Baby 21-24 - Set of knitted socks, pants and jacket with round yoke and blackberry pattern for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca
  • Blueberry / DROPS Baby 21-24 - Set of knitted socks, pants and jacket with round yoke and blackberry pattern for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-088-by/Z-090-by
Yarn group A
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JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 46-52-58 (64-70) cm / 18"-20½"-22 3/4" (25 1/4"-27½")
Full length: 23-25-28 (30-33) cm / 9"-9 3/4"-11" (11 3/4"-13")

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (150-200) g color no 6205, light blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 3 mm / US 2or3 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'' and 28 sts in blackberry pattern = width 10 cm / 4''.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS COCONUT, #516 - 5 pieces.
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PANTS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Waist: 46-50-52 (56-58) cm / 18"-19 3/4"-20½" (22"-22 3/4")
Full length: 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4")

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (150-200) g color no 6205, light blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2or3 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 2.5 mm/US 1or2 - for rib.
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SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5½''-6¼'')

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 6205, light blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2or3 – or size needed to get 28 sts in blackberry pattern = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from RS. 1st row = RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows 3 sts before marker: K 2 tog, K 1.
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

BUTTON HOLES:
bind off for button holes on right band.
1 button hole = bind off 3rd and 4th st from edge and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts. Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
Size 1/3 months: 5, 10, 14, 19 and 23 cm / 2", 4", 5½", 7½" and 9"
Size 6/9 months: 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 cm / 2", 4", 6", 8" and 9 3/4"
Size 12/18 months: 6, 12, 17, 23 and 28 cm / 2 3/8", 4 3/4", 6 3/4", 9" and 11"
Size 2 years: 6, 12, 18, 24 and 30 cm / 2 3/8", 4 3/4", 7", 9½" and 11 3/4"
Size 3/4 years: 6, 13, 20, 27 and 33 cm / 2 3/8", 5 1/8", 8", 10 5/8" and 13"
NOTE: Bind off for last button hole when 2 rows in garter st on band remain before neck edge.
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JACKET:
BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 120-134-150 (164-178) sts (includes 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. Work 4 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS). AT THE SAME TIME on last row, inc 18-20-24 (26-28) sts evenly = 138-154-174 (190-206) sts. Then work diagram M.1 with 5 band sts in garter st in each side. Remember BUTTON HOLES on right band - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures approx. 13-14-16 (17-19) cm / 5"-5½"-6 1/4" (6 3/4"-7½") - stop after 3rd row in diagram M.1 - work next row as follows from WS: Work 33-37-42 (46-50) sts (= left front piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 56-64-74 (82-90) sts (= back piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole and work 33-37-42 (46-50) sts (= right front piece).
Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 38-38-40 (42-45) sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. Work 8 rows in garter st (1st row = RS). AT THE SAME TIME on last row, inc 8-8-10 (8-9) sts evenly = 46-46-50 (50-54) sts. Then work diagram M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-4-5 (6-6) cm / 1½"-1½"-2" (2½"-2½"), inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 3-2-1½ (1½-2) cm / 1 1/8"-3/4"-½" (½"-3/4") a total of 4-6-8 (10-10) times = 54-58-66 (70-74) sts – work the inc sts gradually in diagram M.1, work the sts that do not fit in pattern in garter st. When piece measures approx. 15-15-18 (22-26) cm / 6"-6"-7" (8 3/4"-10 1/4") - adjust after 3rd row in diagram M.1 - bind off 5 sts in each side (bind off at beg and end of row) = 44-48-56 (60-64) sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 210-234-270 (294-318) sts. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 34-37-43 (46-49) sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 176-197-227 (248-269) sts. K 1 row from WS. Then work in garter st back and forth over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 11-11-12 (12-13) sts evenly (do not dec over bands). Repeat dec every 6th row (from RS) a total of 8-9-10 (11-11) times = 88-98-107 (116-126) sts remain on needle. When piece measures approx. 23-25-28 (30-33) cm / 9"-9 3/4"-11" (11 3/4"-13") - adjust so that next row is worked from WS - dec 20-22-23 (24-34) sts evenly = 68-76-84 (92-92) sts remain on needle.

NECK EDGE:
Work as follows seen from from RS: 5 sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 5 sts in garter st. When neck edge measures 3-3-4 (4-4) cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1½" (1½"-1½"), bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY: Sew the sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.
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PANTS:

LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
LOOSELY cast on 56-60-64 (68-72) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with Alpaca. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 8-8-9 (9-10) cm / 3 1/8''-3 1/8''-3½'' (3½''-4''), switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-10 (12-12) sts evenly = 48-52-54 (56-60) sts. Then work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. When piece measures 9-9-10 (10-11) cm / 3½"-3½"-4" (4"-4½"), inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 4th-6th-7th (10th-13th) round a total of 9 times = 66-70-72 (74-78) sts. Continue in garter st. When piece measures approx. 16-19-22 (27-33) cm / 6 1/4"-7½"-8 3/4" (10½"-13") (make sure all inc are finished), divide at inside of leg and finish the piece back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip the legs on the same circular needle). Cast on 1 new st in each side for seam = 68-72-74 (76-80) sts. When piece measures 18-21-24 (29-35) cm / 7"-8 1/4"-9½" (11 3/8"-13 3/4"), bind off 3 sts in each side = 62-66-68 (70-74) sts. Put piece aside and knit another leg the same way.

PANTS:
Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 = 124-132-136 (140-148) sts. Insert a marker mid front. Work in garter st in the round on needle – AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of marker mid front – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec on every other round a total of 6-6-6 (4-4) times = 112-120-124 (132-140) sts. When piece measures 29-35-38 (43-50) cm / 11½"-13 3/4"-15" (17"-19 3/4"), K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 24-24-24 (28-28) sts evenly = 136-144-148 (160-168) sts. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and work rib = K 2/P 2 for 7-7-8 (9-9) cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8" (3½"-3½"). LOOSELY bind off with K over K and P over P. Pants measures approx. 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4").

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the opening between the legs.

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SOCKS:

PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern from RS.

SOCK: Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40-44-44 (48-48) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 6-7-7 (8-8) cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" (3 1/8"-3 1/8"). K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly = 36-40-40 (44-44) sts. Keep the middle 12 sts at the front of sock (= upper piece) on needle, slip the remaining 24-28-28 (32-32) sts on a stitch holder.
Work diagram M.1 back and forth over the 12 sts on upper piece for approx. 3-3½-4 (5-6) cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1½" (2"-2 3/8") – stop after one full repetition of diagram M.1 vertically. Cut the yarn.
Keep the 12 sts on needle, knit up 8-10-10 (12-16) sts along one side of upper piece, slip the 24-28-28 (32-32) sts from stitch holder back on needle and knit up 8-10-10 (12-16) sts along the other side over upper piece = 52-60-60 (68-76) sts – NOTE: This is done without working the sts.
Start round mid back and work diagram M.2 in the round over all sts for approx. 1½-2-2½ (3-3½) cm / ½''-3/4''-7/8'' (1 1/8''-1¼'') – finish either after 1st or 3rd row in diagram M.2.
P 1 round and then bind off all sts except the 12 sts on upper piece. Work diagram M.1 back and forth for sole over these sts for approx. 9-10-11 (13-15) cm / 3½"-4"-4 3/8" (5 1/8"-6") – stop after one full repetition of diagram.
Bind off and sew sole to sock - sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from WS
symbols = Work 3 sts in 1 st as follows: P 1, 1 YO, P 1
symbols = P 3 sts, pass the first st over the 2 last sts, pass the second st over the last st = 1 st remains
symbols = P from RS
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (64)

country flag Jacqueline 23.10.2021 - 21:00:

Waar is patroon M2 voor?

country flag Gudrun 19.08.2021 - 20:12:

Hej, jag skulle verkligen behöva svar på min fråga: hur ska man göra på varv 3 i M1 för att få rätt antal maskor, och samtidigt få minskningar o ökningar att hamna på rätt plats? Det är mkt svårt att förstå diagrammet o jag får antingen totalt för få el för många maskor på varvet så jag måste justera efter hand. Tacksam för snart svar!

user icon DROPS Design 20.08.2021 kl. 10:57:

Hej Gudrun. Du börjar varv 3 på samma plats som du började varv 1. Du börjar alltså varv 3 (efter de 5 kantmaskorna) med att sticka 3 avigmaskor lyft den första m över de 2 sista, lyft den andra m över den sista m. Sedan stickar du symbolen med en prick (dvs 3 m i 1 m) osv. Då kommer det att bli rätt mönster. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Gudrun 09.08.2021 - 23:49:

Jag har problem med att förstå diagrammet för varv 3 i M1. Hur ska man få antalet maskor att bestå när man börjar en maska in i den delen av rapporten som är att sticka 3 maskor avigt, sen dra först en och därefter en maska över den förra så att 3 blir 1? Som jag tolkar diagrammet börjar man varv 3 m att sticka endast 2 maskor avigt och dra den ena över den andra - dvs 2 maskor blir då 1. Men då ökar ju varvet m 1 maska. Hur ska det pareras?

country flag Ruth Primmer 01.05.2021 - 12:11:

Hi there, do you have written instructions for this pattern please? I cannot use chart..

user icon DROPS Design 01.05.2021 kl. 16:01:

Dear Ruth, unfortunately there are no written instructions for the charts, not only because our patterns are available in several languages, but also, because we believe that with charts you can not only see the very next step, but also how the stitches and rows relate to each other "en large", in other words, the bigger pictures. However, we do have a lesson on how to read knitting charts HERE, and you can always ask for help (either in person or over the phone) in the store, where you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Knitting!

country flag Tamara 21.02.2021 - 11:34:

Hartelijk dank voor het antwoord! Ik dacht alleen dat dit vest niet echt een raglan heeft, je moet de 11 steken telkens verdeeld over de toer minderen en er wordt geen melding van markeerders gemaakt (wel bij het patroon voor de broek). Dan verspringt het punt waar je moet minderen telkens.

user icon DROPS Design 23.02.2021 kl. 13:12:

Dag Tamara,

Je hebt inderdaad gelijk dat er niet echt een raglan is. Bij mijn antwoord had dus moeten staan dat je bij tip voor het minderen kunt lezen hoe je het beste mindert voor of na de markeerder (in plaats van raglan).

country flag Tamara 20.02.2021 - 21:24:

Hoe kun je zo onzichtbaar mogelijk minderen in de pas van het vest (het stuk in ribbelsteek, waarbij je bij iedere zesde naald 11, 12 of 13 steken moet melden)? Alvast hartelijk dank!

user icon DROPS Design 21.02.2021 kl. 11:21:

Dag Tamara,

Bovenaan bij de instructies van het patroon staat een tip voor het minderen voor de raglan, zodat het er het mooist uitziet.

country flag Guðborg 07.02.2021 - 13:57:

Góðan dag Ég er að prjóna barnapeysuna blueberry og mér finnst lýsingin á mynstrinu ekki vera í samræmi við myndbandið sem kemur upp fyrir neðan “hvernig á að prjóna brómberjamynstur” er þetta sama mynstur"? Eða hvort er rétt ? Bestu kveðjur

user icon DROPS Design 09.02.2021 kl. 10:24:

Blessuð Guðbjörg. Brómberjamynstrið sem útskýrt er í myndbandinu er önnur leið að prjóna brómberjamynstrið. Hvor tveggja er rétt, en sýnir tvær mismunandi aðferðir við að prjóna þetta mynstur. Fylgdu útskýringu á mynsturteikningu. Gangi þér vel.

country flag Sara 31.01.2021 - 16:35:

Salve, ho acquistato il filato baby merino e vorrei realizzare questo modello nella taglia 1-3 mesi. Posso usare lo stesso numero di maglie indicato nello schema anche se si riferisce ad un filato diverso (alpaca) ?

user icon DROPS Design 31.01.2021 kl. 21:49:

Buonasera Sara, per la taglia 1/3 mesi le serviranno circa 144g di filato BabyMerino. Può seguire le istruzioni indicate se il suo campione corrisponde a quello indicato. Buon lavoro!

country flag Eva Hummelshøj Larsen 09.11.2020 - 21:51:

I jeres opskrift skriver i at jeg skal slå 120 m op og derefter 18 for str. 0-3 mdr . I skriver at strikkefasthed er 24m x 48m =10 cm . Længer nede skriver i at trøjen vil få et mål på 23 cm . Så er det at det knækker for mig . 138 m/ 24 m = 5,75x 10 m = 57,5 cm / 2 = 28,75 . Hvor har i lavet fejl i opskriften ??? Eva

user icon DROPS Design 16.11.2020 kl. 14:56:

Hei Eva. Jakken er både strikket i riller og bjørnebærmænster og det er oppgitt 2 strikkefastheter. DROPS RUNDP NR 3 – eller det pinne nr du må bruke for å få 24 masker x 48 pinner riller på 10 x 10 Og: DROPS RUNDP NR 3 – eller det pinne nr du må bruke for å få 28 masker bjørnebærmønster på 10 cm i bredden. mvh DROPS design

country flag Elise Enger 19.05.2020 - 21:35:

Hva betyr rett fra vrangen? Spurt flere som har strikket mye og alle synes det er en veldig rar formulering? Skal man strikke rett på vrangsiden? Og har dere noe film av Strikk 3 m i 1 m slik: 1 vr, 1 kast, 1 vr? Finner bare med rett strikking

user icon DROPS Design 20.05.2020 kl. 08:01:

Hei Elise, Ja det betyr å strikke rettmasker på vrangsiden. Når du strikker 3 masker i 1 maske, bruker du både løkken foran og bak i masken og strikker vrangmasker, med 1 kast i mellom. God fornøyelse!

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