DROPS / 131 / 17

White Chocolate by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and Norwegian pattern in ”Eskimo” or "Andes". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-361
Yarn group E
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-98-110-120-130-142 cm / 34 5/8''-38½''-43 3/8''-47¼''-51''-55¾''
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
Color no 01, off white: 550-600-700-750-850-950 g
Color no 47, light beige mix: 150-200-200-200-250-250 g

Or use:
Materials: DROPS Andes from Garnstudio
Colour no 0100, off white:
600-700-800-800-900-1000 g
Colour no 0619, beige:
200-200-300-300-300-300 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 40 cm / 32'' and 16") size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 40 cm / 32'' and 16") size 7 mm / US 10½ - for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.35$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams M.1 to M.4.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 116-128-140-152-164-176 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½ with light beige mix. Switch to off white, work rib = K 2/P 2 for 7 cm / 2¾''. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and K 1 round while at the same time dec 20 sts evenly = 96-108-120-132-144-156 sts. Continue in stockinette st. Insert a marker in first st at beg of round and a marker in the 49th-55th-61st-67th-73rd-79th st – these marks the sides.
When piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm / 8 3/4''-9''-9½''-9 3/4''-10 1/4''-10 5/8'', work diagram M.2 - adjust so that st marked with an arrow is mid front. When diagram M.2 has been worked, work 1 round with off white while at the same time casting/binding off 7 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. st with marker + 3 sts on each side of this st) = 82-94-106-118-130-142 sts remain on needle. Now piece measures approx. 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 28-28-32-32-36-36 sts on double pointed needles size 7 mm / US 10½ with light beige mix. Switch to off white, work 3 rounds in rib = K 2/P 2. Then work diagram M.4, this pattern is worked in rib but reversed from before, i.e. P is worked over K and K is worked over P. After diagram M.4, continue with off white and in rib as before. When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', switch to double pointed needles size 8 mm / US 11. Work diagram M.1, then continue with off white and in stockinette st. Insert a marker in first st at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). When piece measures 14 cm / 5½'', inc 1 st on each side of st with marker, repeat inc every 8-8-6-6-5-5 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2"-2" a total of 4-4-5-5-6-6 times = 36-36-42-42-48-48 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 23 cm / 9", work diagram M.2 – adjust pattern so that st with arrow is mid on top of sleeve – work the inc sts gradually in pattern.
After diagram M.2, work 1 round with off white while at the same time casting/binding off 7 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. st with marker + 3 sts on each side of this st) = 29-29-35-35-41-41 sts remain on needle. The piece now measures approx. 43 cm / 17'' in all sizes.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 as body = 140-152-176-188-212-224 sts.
Insert a marker in st mid back – NOW ROUND BEG HERE!
Work 1 round in stockinette st with light beige mix as follows:
Inc 4 sts evenly = 144-156 sts.
Dec 8 sts evenly = 168-180-204-216 sts.
Then continue in diagram M.3 and dec according to diagram - work up to arrow for your size = 72-78-84-75-85-90 sts. Continue with off white, first work 1 round while dec 12-18-20-11-17-22 sts evenly = 60-60-64-64-68-68 sts. Then work an elevation in the back as follows: K 8 sts past st with marker mid back, turn and P 17 sts back, turn and K 25 sts, turn and P 33 sts, turn and K 41 sts, turn and P 49 sts. Turn and work 1 round to mid back.

Switch to a short circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½ and work in rib = K 2/P 2 - at the same time after 4 cm / 1½'', work diagram M.4 (as bottom of sleeves). After diagram M.4, continue with off white and in rib as before until neck measures 12 cm / 4¾''. Loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= light beige mix - K
= light beige mix - P
= off white - K
= off white - P
= K 2 tog

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 131-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

Nicole Bedard 27.02.2020 - 14:42:

Comment faire pour commander un patron de modèle white ch9colate drops 131-17 format papier

DROPS Design 27.02.2020 kl. 15:26:

Bonjour Mme Bedard, contactez votre magasin DROPS, il pourra fort probablement joindre un exemplaire papier des explications avec votre commande. Bon tricot!

Joanne 15.01.2020 - 04:56:

I’m binding off for the armholes my round starts at the middle of one armhole so I cast off 4 stitches there, thinking I would cast off the remaining 3wat the end of the round .... but how do I do that without being left with one stitch ?? Thank you.

DROPS Design 15.01.2020 kl. 07:19:

Hi Joanne, You can cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitch. The next stage is the sleeves, so the body is now put to one side. Happy knitting!

Francesca 27.09.2019 - 18:49:

Salve, cerco di spiegarmi meglio. Sto lavorando il maglione nella taglia S. Nella spiegazione della manica c'è scritto: quando misura 14 cm fare 2 aumenti, uno per ogni lato del segno, e ripetere gli aumenti ogni 8cm per 4 volte. Quindi a 14 cm avró 30 maglie totali, a 22 cm 32 maglie, a 30cm 34 maglie e a 38cm 36maglie. Io sono arrivata al penultimo aumento, quindi ho 34 maglie, che non si adattano al diagramma M2 iniziato a 23 cm. Ho sbagliato qualcosa?

DROPS Design 28.09.2019 kl. 10:02:

Buongiorno Francesca. Sta lavorando correttamente. Quando ha 34 m, lavora il diagramma centrando la m con la freccia. Lavora la prima m del giro come indicato per la 2a m del diagramma. Ripete tutte e 12 le m del motivo sulle m del giro. L’ultima m del giro sarà la penultima m del diagramma . Prosegua incolonnando correttamente il motivo. Quando aumenta riuscirà a lavora la 1a m del giro come la 1a m del diag, e l’ultima m del giro come l’ultima m del diag. Buon lavoro!

Francesca 27.09.2019 - 00:03:

Sto lavorando questa bellissima maglia e sono arrivata a fare la prima manica, solo che con il penultimo aumento ho 34 maglie e quindi non mi trovo con il motivo M2. Cosa ho sbagliato? Grazie

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 10:20:

Buongiorno Francesca. Se capiamo correttamente la domanda, se sta lavorando una delle due taglie più piccole, raggiunge il numero corretto delle maglie dopo aver aumentato 4 volte. Verifichi il numero di aumenti fatti e nel caso può farne uno in più per arrivare al numero delle maglie corretto. Buon lavoro!

Susanna 18.10.2018 - 17:57:

Liebes Drops Team, das ist eine wunderschöne und einfache Anleitung. Ich habe den Pullover gestrickt. Allerdings mit Andes. Es hat sehr gut geklappt und mit ein paar individuellen Anpassungen sitzt der Pullover so, wie ich ihn haben wollte. ich habe die Ärmel etwas weiter gestrickt und das in der Passe wieder ausgeglichen. Danke für den tollen Pullover. Er wurde schon viel bewundert.

Angelique 02.10.2018 - 14:53:

Bonjour, Je souhaiterai savoir comment faire l’empiècement "Reprendre les manches sur la même aiguille circulaire 8 que le dos et le devant" Je n'ai pas trouvé la vidéo qui pourrait m'aider. Merci beaucoup

DROPS Design 02.10.2018 kl. 16:05:

Bonjour Angélique, cette vidéo montre comment reprendre les mailles des manches sur la même aiguille circulaire que le dos et le devant, au-dessus des mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures. Les premiers tours sont parfois un peu plus compliqués à tricoter, mais après quelques tours, c'est plus simple. Bon tricot!

Petra Sasse 04.01.2018 - 13:17:

Zur Anleitung von: DROPS / 131 / 17 White Chocolate Ist es richtig, dass nach dem Stricken des Bündchens abgenommen wird? Das erscheint mir sehr ungewöhnlich. Hat der Pulli eine A-Form? Viele Grüße

DROPS Design 04.01.2018 kl. 14:57:

Liebe Frau Sasse, es stimmt so, damit die untere Kante die richtige Breite ist, dann wird es nach den Bündchen abgenommen (diese Bündchen sollen auch nicht den Pulli fester ziehen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Johanna 10.12.2017 - 19:27:

Jammer dat u geen antwoord heeft gegeven op mijn vraag

DROPS Design 11.12.2017 kl. 12:50:

Hallo Johanna, Je vraag had ik even doorgegeven aan designafdeling. Zodra duidelijk is wat de hoeveelheden garens zijn, zal ik het doorgeven.

Johanna 21.11.2017 - 10:14:

Hoe kan het dat je bij dit model meer Andes nodig hebt dan Eskimo, terwijl Andes veel meer looplengte heeft? Is het aantal bollen niet precies andersom, meer Eskimo dan Andes?

DROPS Design 15.12.2017 kl. 10:37:

Hoi Johanna, Andes wordt verkocht in bollen van 100 gram. De looplenghte is 90m per 100 gram en dus 45m per 50 gram. Daardoor heeft Andes een iets kortere looplengte dan Eskimo.

Maria Blomqvist 29.09.2016 - 22:44:

Taas on ohjeen mukanen lanka eri kun kuvassa. Eikö kukaan tarkasta näitä ennen julkaisua. Onhan se tietysti tyhmää iteltäkin vaan tilata ohjeen mukaan langat, kun ei oo eka kerta ku on väärin. Eli beige pitäisi olla 48 ei 47 😡😡😡

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