Carnival Star by DROPS Design

Set of knitted jacket with stripes, dots and raglan plus socks for baby and children in DROPS Fabel. Matching crochet plushie and pacifier leash in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS Baby 19-4
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-026-by-FA-027-by-FA-023-by + ME-029-by
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JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-62 (68-74) cm / 19 3/4"-22"-24 3/8" (26 3/4"-29 1/8")
Full length: 28-30-34 (38-42) cm / 11"-11 3/4"-13 3/8" (15"-16½")

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 161, pink dream
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 100, off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 2.5 mm/US 1 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS wooden button no 513: 5-5-5 (6-6) pcs.
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SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5½''-6¼'')

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 100, off-white
50 g for all sizes in color no 161, pink dream

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
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FABULOUS ANIMAL:
Measurements: length approx 40 cm / 15 3/4''

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 161, pink dream
A remnant color no 100, off-white (for eyes)
A remnant color no 400, black (for eyes)

DROPS HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 24 sc x 25 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
NOTE: Measure when piece is lying flat. The animal will fill out when filled with stuffing.

POLY STUFFING – for filling.
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PACIFIER HOLDER:
Measure: length approx 30 cm / 11 3/4'' (including string)

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
a remnant color no 161, pink dream
a remnant color no 100, off-white (for eyes)
a remnant color no 400, black (for eyes and snout)
And use: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
a remnant color no 11, red
a remnant color no 17, cerise

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C (for head and snout) – or size needed to get width of 27 sc = 10 cm / 4''. NOTE: Measure when piece is lying flat. The head will fill out when filled with stuffing.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 (for string, flower and ears).

POLY STUFFING for filling
SMALL SAFETY PIN or CLIP to attach holder to garment.
1 pacifier.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.65 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.65 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. The entire pattern is worked in stockinette st.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DECREASING TIP (applies to raglan):
FROM RS:
Dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece (beg 3 sts before marker): K2 tog, K2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
FROM WS:
Dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece (beg 3 sts before marker): P2 tog into back of loop, P2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), P2 tog.
NOTE! Make sure sts sit the right way as seen from RS.
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JACKET:

BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 148-168-184 (200-220) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with pink dream. P 1 row from WS, then continue in rib, K2/P2 with 1 edge st and K2 each side towards mid front (as seen from RS). When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'' work 1 row stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 17-21-21 (21-25) sts evenly = 131-147-163 (179-195) sts. Insert a marker 33-37-41 (45-49) sts in from each side = 65-73-81 (89-97) sts between markers on back piece. Continue in chart M.1 with 1 edge st each side towards mid front – NOTE: repeat M.1 across the row until 2 sts remain on needle, work 1 st like first st in M.1 and finish with 1 edge st. After M.1 continue in M.2 in the same way with 1 edge st each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures approx 17-18-21 (24-27) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4" (9½"-10 5/8") - adjust after 1 stripe in M.2 (i.e. 5 rows in one color) - work next row as follows: work 29-33-37 (41-45) sts (= front piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 57-65-73 (81-89) sts (= back piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 29-33-37 (41-45) sts (= front piece).
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40-44-44 (48-52) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with pink dream. K 1 round, then continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts evenly = 37-41-41 (45-49) sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue in M.1. – NOTE: repeat M.1 across the round until 1 st remain, work this st like the first st in M.1. After M.1 continue in M.2 in the same way. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' inc 1 st each side of marker. Repeat the inc on every 4-4-4 (5-6) round a total of 8-8-12 (12-12) times = 53-57-65 (69-73) sts – incorporate inc sts in pattern as you go along. When piece measures approx 16-17-20 (24-28) cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-8" (9½"-11") - adjust to the same row in M.2 as on body piece – bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve = 45-49-57 (61-65) sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body pieces where bind off for armholes = 205-229-261 (285-309) sts. Insert a marker in all 4 transitions between sleeves and body piece.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue M.2 – make sure stripes on sleeves and body piece match.
RAGLAN DEC:
At the same time dec 1 st on each side of all markers, beg from RS (= 8 dec per row) – SEE DECREASING TIP!
Repeat the dec on every other row a total of 12-14-13 (14-16) times and then on every row: 4-4-9 (10-10) times.
NECK:
At the same time when piece measures 23-25-29 (32-36) cm / 9"-9 3/4"-11 3/8" (12½"-14 1/4") bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 6-8-8 (8-10) sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-2-2 (4-4) times.
After all dec for raglan and neck are complete there are 57-61-61 (65-69) sts left on needle and piece measures approx 28-30-34 (38-42) cm / 11"-11 3/4"-13 3/8" (15"-16½") from cast on row to shoulder. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT BAND:
Pick up approx 68-76-88 (96-108) sts (divisible by 4) along left front piece on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with pink dream. Work rib, K2/P2, back and forth on needle with 1 edge st in garter st and K2 each side (as seen from RS). bind off with K over K and P over P when front band measures 2 cm / 3/4''.

RIGHT FRONT BAND:
Like left front band, but after 2 rows make 4-4-4 (5-5) buttonholes evenly distributed – place the bottom buttonhole approx 2 cm / 3/4'' from bottom edge and the top one approx 4 cm / 1½'' from the top (the last buttonhole is made on neckline).
1 BUTTONHOLE = K2 tog and make 1 YO. NOTE! For neatest result make buttonholes in P sts (as seen from RS) by P2 tog.

NECKLINE:
Slip sts from neck back on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1, and pick up approx 16 to 22 sts on each neckline at front with pink dream (also pick up on front bands) = approx 89 to 113 sts. P 1 row from WS with 1 st each side in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 84-88-92 (96-100) sts. Continue in rib, K2/P2, with 1 edge st in garter st and K2 each side towards mid front (as seen from RS). AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows rib make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. Bind off with K over K and P over P when neckline measures 2 cm / 3/4''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves. Sew on buttons.
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SOCK:

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – pattern worked in stockinette st.

HEEL DECREASES:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work row until 6-6-6 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work row until 6-6-6 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= RS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 8-10-10 (10-12) sts on needle.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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SOCK:
Cast on 48-52-52 (56-60) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with pink dream. Work rib, K2/P2 for 5-6-6 (7-7) cm / 2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" (2 3/4"-2 3/4").
K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 sts evenly = 36-40-40 (44-48) sts. Now continue following chart M.1. After M.1 continue in off-white and stockinette st. When piece measures 7-8-8 (9-9) cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" (3½"-3½") keep the first 18-20-20 (22-26) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 18-20-20 (22-22) sts on a stitch holder (= upper foot). Work stockinette st back and forth on needle on heel sts for 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm / 1 1/8''-1¼''-1½'' (1½''-1¾'') – insert a marker. Now work HEEL DECREASES – see above! After heel dec pick up 8-9-10 (10-11) sts each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 42-48-50 (52-56) sts. Continue in the round in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 1 st before the 18-20-20 (22-22) sts on upper foot by K2 tog, and dec 1 st after the 18-20-20 (22-22) sts on upper foot by slipping 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 3-6-7 (5-7) times = 36-36-36 (42-42) sts. Continue until sock measures 8-9-10 (12-14) cm / 3 1/8"-3½"-4" (4 3/4"-5½") from marker on heel. Now insert 1 new marker each side with 18-18-18 (21-21) sts on upper foot and under foot between markers. Dec 1 st each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP. Repeat the dec on every round a total of 7-7-7 (8-8) times = 8-8-8 (10-10) sts left on needle. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5½''-6¼'').

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FABULOUS ANIMAL:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of each round with ch 1 and finish each round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

CROCHET SC TOG:
Crochet 2 sc tog to 1 sc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pick up thread, insert hook in next st, pick up thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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BODY:
Beg at the back end of animal and crochet towards the head and trunk. Then crochet ears, legs, tail and eyes, which are sewn on afterwards.

BODY:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and pink dream ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
SEE CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 42 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in each of the first 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 9: * 1 sc in each of the first 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 54 sc.
ROUND 10: * 1 sc in each of the first 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 60 sc.
ROUND 11: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 66 sc.
ROUND 12-14: 1 sc in each sc = 66 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 72 sc.
ROUND 16-21: 1 sc in each sc = 72 sc.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in each of the first 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 78 sc.
ROUND 23-33: 1 sc in each sc = 78 sc.
ROUND 34: * 1 sc in each of the first 11 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog (see above) *, repeat from *-* = 72 sc.
ROUND 35-37: 1 sc in each sc = 72 sc.
ROUND 38: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 66 sc.
ROUND 39-41: 1 sc in each sc = 66 sc.
ROUND 42: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 60 sc.
ROUND 43-45: 1 sc in each sc = 60 sc.
ROUND 46: * 1 sc in each of the first 8 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 54 sc.
ROUND 47-48: 1 sc in each sc = 54 sc.
ROUND 49: * 1 sc in each of the first 7 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 50-51: 1 sc in each sc = 48 sc.
ROUND 52: * 1 sc in each of the first 6 t sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 42 sc.
ROUND 53-54: 1 sc in each sc = 42 sc.
ROUND 55: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 56: 1 sc in each = 36 sc.
ROUND 57: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 58: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 59: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.

Fill the body with stuffing and continue in the round for head without cutting the thread.

ROUND 1: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 32 sc.
ROUND 2: 1 sc in each sc = 32 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 40 sc.
ROUND 4: 1 sc in each sc = 40 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 6: 1 sc in each sc = 48 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 56 sc.
ROUND 8-17: 1 sc in each sc = 56 sc.
ROUND 18: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 19: 1 sc in each sc = 48 sc.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 40 sc.
ROUND 21: 1 sc in each sc = 40 sc.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 32 sc.
ROUND 23: 1 sc in each sc = 32 sc.
ROUND 24: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 25: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 26: * 1 sc in first sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 16 sc.

Fill the head with stuffing and continue in the round for trunk without cutting the thread.

ROUND 1-14: 1 sc in each sc = 16 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 16-17: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 18: 2 sc tog all the way round = 12 sc – NOTE: Crochet in the back loop of st.
Fill trunk with stuffing.
ROUND 19: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 20: 2 sc tog all the way round = 6 sc.
Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

LEGS:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and pink dream ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 4 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3: 2 sc in each sc = 16 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc – NOTE: Crochet in back loop of st.
ROUND 6: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc – NOTE: Crochet through both loops again.
ROUND 7: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet tog the first 2 and the last 2 sc on round = 22 sc.
ROUND 8: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet the 8th and 9th, 10th and 11th, 12th and 13th and 14th and 15th sc tog = 18 sc.
Continue in the round with 1 sc in each sc until leg measures approx 4.5 cm / 1 3/4'', cut the thread. Crochet 1 more leg in the same way. Fill both legs with stuffing and sew them to the side under the body at the front – see photo.
Crochet 2 hind legs in the same way but finish when legs measures approx 2.5 cm / 7/8''. Fill legs with stuffing and sew to the side under the body at the back.

EARS:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and pink dream ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 42 sc.
ROUND 8-15: 1 sc in each sc = 42 sc.
ROUND 16: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 17: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
Place piece flat and crochet 1 sc in each sc through both layers = 15 sc, turn piece and crochet 2 sc tog across return row = 8 sc. Cut the thread and sew ear to the top of head. Crochet 1 more ear in the same way and attach to the opposite side of head.

TAIL:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 ch 20 with pink dream. Crochet 1 tr in 5th ch from hook and continue with 1 tr in each ch, AT THE SAME TIME crochet 2 tr tog across the row – NOTE: When crochet 2 tr tog wait with the last YO and pull through on first tr, crochet next tr and pull the last YO through all sts on hook.
Sew the tail to mid back of animal.

EYES:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and black ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc, change to off-white.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
Cut the thread and sew the eye to one side at the front of head.
Crochet 1 more eye in the same way, but change to off-white after round 1 and sew to the other side at the front of head.

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PACIFIER HOLDER:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc on round with ch 1 and finish each round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

CROCHET SC TOG:
Crochet 2 sc tog to 1 sc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pick up thread, insert hook in next st, pick up thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

SAFETY TIP: Keep baby safe and adjust the length of the string to your baby, recommended string length approx 18-20 cm/7"-8"
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STRING AND HEAD:
Beg with the string and then crochet the head. Then crochet ears, eyes, snout and the flowers, which are sewn on afterwards.

STRING:
READ CROCHET INFO! Crochet a ch-row measuring approx 28 cm / 11'' with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with red. Crochet 1 sc in second ch from hook, and then 1 sc in each ch across the row. Ch 3 and the end of row and form a ring with these 3 ch with 1 sl st in first ch on ch-row.
Change to crochet hook size 3 mm / C and pink dream and crochet the head as follows:
ROUND 1: Crochet 2 sc in the outermost sc on the string, crochet 4 sc in ring = 6 sc.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 5: 1 sc in each sc = 18 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 7: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 9: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 10: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 11-14: 1 sc in each sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, then crochet tog the next 2 sc (see above) *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 16: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 17: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet tog the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 18: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 19: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, then crochet tog the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in first sc, then crochet tog the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
ROUND 21: Crochet 2 sc tog all the way round = 6 sc.
Fill the head with poly stuffing, cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

EARS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with cerise and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 9 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
ROUND 4-6: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
Place piece flat and crochet 1 sc in each sc through both layers = 6 sc, turn piece and crochet 2 sc tog across the row = 3 sc.
Cut the thread and sew ear to the top of head to the side. Crochet 1 more ear and attach to the opposite side of head.

SNOUT:
Ch 4 with hook size 3 mm / C with black and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring. Change to pink dream.
ROUND 2: 1 sc in each sc = 6 sc.
ROUND 3: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 4: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
Fill the snout with poly stuffing and sew snout to the middle of head with neat sts.

EYES:
Ch 4 with hook size 3 mm / C with black and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 3 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 6 sc.
Change to off-white.
ROUND 3: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
Cut the thread.
Make 1 more eye in the same way but change to off-white after the first round.
Sew eyes to the front of head.

FLOWER:
Ch 4 with hook size 3 mm / C with pink dream (try to find a yellow/green section of the yarn) and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 10 sc in ring.
Change to cerise.
ROUND 2: * Ch 2, 1 sc in first ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves. Cut and fasten threads.
Fold the string approx 8-10 cm / 3"-4'' from the top and attach the flower to string sewing through both layers of string.
Crochet 1 more flower and attach to the string below the first flower.

Sew a small safety pin or a small clip to the back of head. Fold string double over pacifier and pull head through the loop.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off-white
symbols = pink dream
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Anne Wright wrote:

2.5mm needles specified for jacket - is this wrong? It says 3mm on the yarn label. I think maybe the 2.5 is a US size. About to start - please advise!

22.10.2020 - 13:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wright, you need the needle size required to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette = 4"x4" - we used needle size 2,5 - the tension on the label is with needle size 3 mm = 24 sts x 32 rows (read more under shadecard. Remember to check your gauge and adjust needle size if required - read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

22.10.2020 kl. 15:29

country flag Bettina wrote:

Vielen Dank für die Hilfe.

24.04.2019 - 08:53

country flag Bettina wrote:

Größe 12-18 Monate

24.04.2019 - 08:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, in der Größe 12/18 Monate ketten Sie für den Hals wie folgt: 8 Maschen am Anfang jeder nächste 2 Reihe (= 8 M auf beiden Seiten), dann 2 Maschen am Anfang der nächsten 2 Reihe und 1 Masche am Anfang der nächsten 4 Reihen (= 2 Maschen auf beiden Seiten) = 12 M werden auf beiden Seiten für den Hals abgekettet. Es waren 261 M - (Raglan: 8 Abnahmen x 22=176) - 24 (Hals) = 61 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.04.2019 kl. 13:23

country flag Bettina wrote:

Und an den Vorderteilen werden keine Maschen abgekettet? Das ist in der Anleitung nicht ersichtlich und stimmt dann auch nicht mit der Maschenzahl nicht über ein. LG

23.04.2019 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, diese Abketten entstehen am Hals = an jedem Vorderteil, dh am Anfang jeder Reihe (Hin sowie Rückreihe = rechtes und linkes Vorderteil) ketten Sie ab: 6-8-8 (8-10) M. 1 Mal, 2 M. 1 Mal und 1 M. 2-2-2 (4-4) Mal. Welche Größe stricken Sie?

24.04.2019 kl. 08:42

country flag Bettina wrote:

Gleichzeitig nach 23-25-29 (32-36) cm am Anfang jeder R. gegen den Hals abk.: 6-8-8 (8-10) M. 1 Mal, 2 M. 1 Mal und 1 M. 2-2-2 (4-4) Mal. was meint es damit gegen den Hals abnehmen ? heisst es an den Vorderseiten die Maschen abnehmen ? LG

22.04.2019 - 11:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, die Maschen für den Hals werden am Anfang jeder Reihe (Hin sowie Rückreihe) abgekettet (nicht abgenommen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.04.2019 kl. 14:22

country flag Lina Thorne wrote:

Bonjour, comment faire pour évité le décalage des couleurs lorsqu'on tricote les manches ? Merci :)

04.12.2017 - 11:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thorne, cette vidéo montre comment éviter un décalage quand on tricote des rayures en rond. Bon tricot!

04.12.2017 kl. 13:46

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Op de foto heeft get patroon meer kleuren dan genoemd bij de gebruikte wol. Welke kleuren zijn er daar nog meer gebruikt en hoeveel?

06.08.2017 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Yvonne, Door het kleurverloop in pink dream van fabel print lijkt het alsof er verschillende kleuren zijn gebreuikt. Je hebt dus alleen fabel pink dream en naturel nodig.

06.08.2017 kl. 22:30

country flag Kristina Sjönnemo wrote:

Aha, jag räknade inte in de första 8 minskade maskorna som står efter rubriken RAGLANMINSKNING, så därför blev det för många maskor. Men nu fick jag det klart för mig! Tack!

08.06.2017 - 15:01

country flag Kristina Sjönnemo wrote:

Hej igen, tack för svar! Jag skrev lite dumt i frågan om maskantalet bara. Jag stickar mönstret för 6/9 månader. (Skrev strl 2 och menade inte för en 2åring utan den andra storl i mönstret ;) ) Jag har 229m i början på oket och ska avsluta med 61, det stämmer inte för mig! Står det fel? Tack för svar / Kristina

08.06.2017 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Då jag kollar denna storlek så stämmer det också; du ska minska totalt 144 maskor för raglan och avm totalt 24 m för halsen: 229 - 144 - 24 blir då 61 maskor.

08.06.2017 kl. 13:51

country flag Kristina Sjönnemo wrote:

Hej, jag undrar över stycket som handlar om oket och avm för halskant. Vad betyder att maska av 8 m "1 gång" i början på varje varv för halsringning? Är "1 gång" samma sak som ett varv eller ska jag maska av 8 m i början av både räta varvet och det aviga varvet så att det blir symmetriskt? Jag får inte heller ihop maskantalet. Det blir inte 61 m kvar efter alla minskningar (stickar strl 2)

07.06.2017 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Du ska avm i varje sida, dvs. både från rät- och avigsidan. Maskantalet stämmer: Du börjar oket med 285 m, det minskas totalt 192 m för raglan och det avm totalt 28 m för halsen, då blir det 65 m kvar.

07.06.2017 kl. 13:31

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