Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 52-56-64 (68-76) cm / 20½"-22"-25 1/4" (26 3/4"-30")
Full length: 56-65-74 (80-88) cm / 22"-25½"-29 1/8" (31½"-34 5/8")

250-250-300 (300-350) g color no 3620, red
100-100-100 (100-150) g color no 1101, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 – for seed st.

DROPS PEARL BUTTON no 541: 5-5-6 (6-6) pcs.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K.
Repeat row 2.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures a total of:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 23, 30, 37, 44, 51 cm / 9", 11 3/4", 14½", 17 1/4", 20".
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 28, 36, 44, 52, 60 cm / 11", 14 1/4", 17 1/4", 20½", 23 5/8".
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 31, 38, 46, 53, 61, 68 cm / 12 1/4", 15", 18", 21", 24", 26 3/4".
SIZE 2 YEARS: 34, 42, 50, 58, 66, 74 cm / 13 3/8", 16½", 19 3/4", 22 3/4", 26", 29 1/8".
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 39, 48, 56, 65, 73, 82 cm / 15 1/4", 19", 22", 25½", 28 3/4", 32 1/4"

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
LOOSELY cast on 34-36-40 (44-48) sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 threads white. K 1 round and continue in SEED ST – see above. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' change to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and 2 threads red and continue in stockinette st. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 14 cm / 5½'' inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 2-2-3 (4-5) round a total of 7-8-9 (9-10) times = 48-52-58 (62-68) sts. When piece measures 21-24-27 (32-37) cm / 8 1/4"-9½"-10 5/8" (12½"-14½") bind off 4 sts at the inside of leg (= 2 sts each side of marker) = 44-48-54 (58-64) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with the inside of legs towards each other = 88-96-108 (116-128) sts. Now continue back and forth on circular needle from mid front as follows (first row = RS): Cast on 3 new sts on needle, K all sts on row and cast on 3 new sts at the end of row = 94-102-114 (122-134) sts. Insert a marker 25-27-30 (32-35) sts in from each side (= 44-48-54 (58-64) sts between markers on back piece). Continue in stockinette st with 5 sts each side towards mid front in garter st (= front bands). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 23-28-31 (34-39) cm / 9"-11"-12 1/4" (13 3/8"-15 1/4") make buttonholes on right front band – SEE ABOVE! When piece measures 45-53-61 (66-73) cm / 17 3/4"-21"-24" (26"-28 3/4") divide the piece by the 2 markers and complete front and back pieces separately.

= 44-48-54 (58-64) sts. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts at the end of every row each side for sleeves: 3 sts 2-1-3 (1-2) times, 5 sts 1-2-1 (2-2) times, 7 sts 1-1-1 (2-2) times and then 9-10-12 (14-16) sts 1 time = 98-108-120 (140-156) sts on needle. When piece measures 55-64-73 (79-87) cm / 21 5/8"-25 1/4"-28 3/4" (31"-34 1/4") bind off the middle 16-18-18 (20-20) sts for neck and complete each shoulder/sleeve separately. Work 2 rows stockinette st on the remaining 41-45-51 (60-68) sts and bind off LOOSELY.

= 25-27-30 (32-35) sts. Continue in stockinette st with the 5 front band sts in garter st as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts at the end of every row towards the side for sleeve as described for back piece = 52-57-63 (73-81) sts. When piece measures 52-61-69 (75-83) cm / 20½"-24"-27 1/8" (29½"-32 3/4") bind off 5-6-6 (7-7) sts towards mid front for neck and bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 41-45-51 (60-68) sts left on needle for shoulder/sleeve. Continue until piece measures 56-65-74 (80-88) cm / 22"-25½"-29 1/8" (31½"-34 5/8") and bind off LOOSELY.

Like left front piece, but mirrored – remember buttonholes on front band.

Sew upper arm seams, edge to edge in outer loops of sts. Place right front band over left front band and sew tog at the bottom of body piece. Sew under arm seams, edge to edge in outer loops of sts. Sew on buttons.

Pick up 32-36-36 (40-40) sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 threads white round sleeve edge. Work seed st in the round until cuff measures 5 cm / 2'' and bind off LOOSELY with K over P and P over K. Repeat round the other sleeve edge. Fold sleeve and leg edges towards RS.

Pick up approx 40 to 50 sts from RS round neck on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 2 threads red – beg after the 5 front band sts on right front piece and finish before the 5 front band sts on left front piece. Work stockinette st back and forth on needle, AT THE SAME TIME on second row (= from RS) inc evenly to 66-70-74 (78-82) sts. Continue until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm / 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4" (10 5/8"-11") and bind off. Sew hood tog at the top in outer loops of sts.
Now work border round the opening of hood as follows: Pick up approx 81-89-97 (105-109) sts from RS along the opening of hood on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 threads white. Work seed st back and forth on needle until border measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' and bind off LOOSELY with K over P and P over K. Fold border double towards RS and sew border to the 5 garter sts each side. Make a white pompom with a diameter of approx 4-5 cm / 1½"-2" and attach to the top of hood.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (69)

country flag Marissa Kanewske wrote:

Under the instructions for BACK PIECE, for the 1/3 MONTHS size: it says you will have 98 sts after all of the increases. Then you bind off 16 sts in the middle for the neck. Then it says "complete each shoulder/sleeve separately" with no other instructions on how to do so. 98 sts minus 16 sts should equal 82 sts but instead it says to bind off the remaining 41 sts. What happens to the other 41 sts?

16.11.2021 - 05:45:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kanewske, each shoulder/sleeve will be worked separately means that you will first work one set of 41 sts (one side/shoulder/sleeve) leaving the other set of 41 sts unworked; and after these 2 rows over the first 41 sts on one side, cast off, cut the yarn. Join it to the other set of 41 sts for the other shoulder/sleeve and work the same way. Happy knitting!

16.11.2021 kl. 09:15:

country flag Anne Stecker wrote:

I used twice as much yarn as the pattern called for. I used 2 strands of Cascade 220. Gauge was good, sizzle was good. Anyone else use much more yarn?

12.10.2021 - 02:32:

country flag Betty Wagner wrote:

It looks like a pretty pattern

20.08.2020 - 19:58:

country flag Ivana wrote:

Hi, I am looking for a crochet pattern for this amazing romper overal.... please, have you got anything similar for the crocheters???

04.06.2020 - 07:45:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ivana, you will find our crocheted overalls for babies here. Happy crocheting!

04.06.2020 kl. 09:09:

country flag Diane Jackson wrote:

Hello, I am interested in knitting the pattern, My First Christmas by DROPS Design. I have a friend who is going to have a baby right before Christmas this year and I was wondering if the smallest size (1-3 mo) would be too large for a brand new baby. I looked at the bust measurement and it said 20 1/2" and I was wondering if that is the measurement for the garment or if that is the infant measurement? Thank you for any assistance you can provide. Kind regards, Diane

02.06.2020 - 00:44:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jackson, the measurements are the finished one when pieces is laying flat (read more here. This might help you to find out the matching size -or you can find more overall patterns here. Happy knitting!

02.06.2020 kl. 10:35:

country flag Nicole Groß wrote:

Schönen guten Tag, ich habe eine Frage zu den Übergang von bein und Strampler! Da steht das die Beine auf eine rundstricknadel kommen damit man dann mit den Strampler anfangen kann. Die Frage ist jetzt werden die Beine in rund oder als hin und rückgestrickt? Und wenn sie in rund gestrickt werden kommen dann beide Beine auf einer Nadel? LG Nicole

12.08.2019 - 06:47:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Groß, Strampler wird hin und zurück gestrickt, es wird bei der 1. Reihe 3 M angeschlagen, dann die Maschen der 1. Beine gestrickt, dann die Maschen der 2. Beine gestrickt, und schliesslich 3 M angeschlagen. Vile Spaß beim stricken!

12.08.2019 kl. 08:56:

country flag Nancy Crosier wrote:

Want to print off free knitted patterns do not find any place to be able to do it

20.07.2019 - 12:46:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nancy, you can easily print every our pattern for free whenever you like - see symbol of printer just under the header of pattern and tab with material. Happy knitting!

20.07.2019 kl. 17:38:

country flag Anne wrote:

Hej, hvor er beskrivelsen på hvordan ærmerne strikkes? De er slet ikke nævnt i opskriften.

04.07.2018 - 17:31:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne. Ermene strikkes som en del av forstykkene og bakstykket: det legges opp masker i sidene til ermer. God fornøyelse

06.07.2018 kl. 08:02:

Kate wrote:

Hi, if this is knit with 2 strands of Alpaca together, could I use 1 Nepal strand instead?

20.12.2016 - 11:45:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kate, sure you could, read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

20.12.2016 kl. 12:28:

Harriet wrote:

Storlek 62/68 känns som en för liten storlek åt 6/9 månaders baby, hur skall man tolka det. Kan man lita på att det blir rätt storlek om man följer det maskantal som kommer som andra i följd?

01.10.2016 - 14:59:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Harriet. Se nederst paa opskriften. Her finder du maaleskitse med alle maal i cm per str. Du kan sammenligne her for at vaelge den str du vil lave. Og husk at strikke en pröve saa din strikkefasthed stemmer - saa kommer maalene ogsaa til at stemme.

04.10.2016 kl. 15:38:

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