DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS Baby 19-11
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-080-by-jul
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HAT:
Size: 1/3-6/9-12/18 months (2-3/4-5/6) years
Head circumference:
cm 40/42-42/44-44/46 (48/50-50/52-52/54)
inch 16"-17"-17¾" (19½"-20"-21")

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (50-100-100) g color no 3620, red
50-50-50 (50-100-100) g color no 1101, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm / US 7 – for crochet border.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
NECK WARMER:
Size: 1/3-6/9-12/18 months (2-3/4-5/6) years

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (50-100-100) g color no 3620, red.
50 g for all sizes color no 1101, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") size 5 mm/ US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm / US 7 - for crochet border.
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HAT:
INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st inside 1 edge st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
GARTER ST (in the round):
K 1 round, P 1 round.
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HAT:
Beg with the ear flaps, worked back and forth on double pointed needles, then cast on sts for the hat and work hat in the round on double pointed needles.

EAR FLAP:
Worked back and forth on double pointed needles. Cast on 6-6-6 (6-6-7) sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with 2 strands white. Work GARTER ST – see above – back and forth on needle (first row = RS). AT THE SAME TIME on row 3 inc 1 st each side - See INCREASING TIP – and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 5-6-7 (7-8-8) times = 16-18-20 (20-22-23) sts.
After the last inc piece measures approx 3.5-4-4.5 (4.5-5-5) cm / 1¼"-1½"-1¾" (1¾"-2"-2"). Work 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-2-2 (4-4-4) sts evenly = 18-20-22 (24-26-27) sts.
Slip sts on a stitch holder and knit one more ear flap.

HAT:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 6-6-5 (5-4-4) sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with 2 strands white, work 1 ear flap in on double pointed needles (= 18-20-22 (24-26-27) sts), cast on 17-18-18 (19-20-20) sts (= front), work the other ear flap in on double pointed needles (= 18-20-22 (24-26-27) sts) and cast on 6-6-5 (5-4-3) sts = 65-70-72 (77-80-81) sts on needle.
Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here.
Continue in GARTER ST – see above – until piece measures 5-5-6 (6-7-8) cm / 2"-2"-2⅜" (2⅜"-2¾"-3⅛") from marker. Now continue in stockinette st with 2 threads red. When piece measures 9-10-11 (13-15-18) cm / 3½"-4"-4⅜" (5⅛"-6"-7") from marker insert 5-5-6 (7-8-9) new markers in piece with 13-14-12 (11-10-9) sts between each. Now dec 1 st after each marker by K2 tog (i.e. = 5-5-6 (7-8-9) dec sts per round). Dec like this on every other round a total of 11-12-11 (10-9-8) times = 10-10-6 (7-8-9) sts left on needle. Now K2 tog all the way round = 5-5-3 (4-4-5) sts. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten. Hat measures approx 19-20-21 (22-23-24) cm / 7½"-8"-8¼" (8¾"-9"-9½") from marker mid back.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border round the edge of hat from RS with hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7 and 2 threads white as follows: 1 sc at the point of one ear flap and continue as follows: * 3 ch, 1 dc in the first of the 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm / ⅜", 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch, 1 dc in the first of the 3 ch and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round. Cut and fasten thread.

POMPOM:
Make 2 pompoms with a diameter of approx 5 cm / 2" with white. Sew 1 pompom to the point of each earflap.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from top down.
Cast on 54-66-72 (84-96-102) sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 2 strands red.
Work 2 rows GARTER ST – see above – and continue in rib K3/ P3.
When piece measures 5-6-7 (7-8-8) cm / 2"-2⅜"-2¾" (2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛") inc 1 st in each P-section by working 2 sts in the first P-st = 63-77-84 (98-112-119) sts.
Repeat the inc in the last and first P-st alternately in each P-section on every 2-2-2 (3-3-3) round another 6-6-6 (5-5-5) times = 117-143-156 (168-192-204) sts.
Continue with K3/P10-10-10 (9-9-9) until piece measures 11-12-13 (15-17-18) cm / 4⅜"-4¾"-5⅛" (6"-6¾"-7"). Now change to 2 threads white. Work 2 cm / ¾" garter st and bind off.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border round bottom edge from RS with crochet hook size 4.5 mm / US 7 and 2 threads white as follows: 1 sc, * 3 ch, 1 dc in the first of the 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm / ⅜", 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch, 1 dc in the first of the 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm / ⅜" and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round. Cut and fasten thread.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Bresson wrote:

Pourrais je avoir les explications de ces deux modèles. Merci

18.11.2024 - 12:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bresson, retrouvez les explications de cet ensemble ici en français. Bon tricot!

18.11.2024 - 16:17

country flag Francesca Saddi wrote:

Salve vorrei sapere se questo berretto si può realizzare con i ferri normali (non a doppia punta).. grazie x l'attenzione... cordiali saluti Francesca Saddi.

14.12.2018 - 17:49

country flag Francesca Saddi wrote:

Salve vorrei sapere se questo berretto si può realizzare con i ferri normali (non a doppia punta).. grazie x l'attenzione... cordiali saluti Francesca Saddi.

14.12.2018 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Francesca. Può lavorare il berretto anche avanti e indietro sui ferri normali. Aggiunga 1 m per parte per la cucitura. Buon lavoro!

14.12.2018 - 17:18

country flag Henriette wrote:

Ich arbeite zum ersten Mal mit Alpaca-Wolle. Sie ist traumhaft weich. Nun meine Frage: oben sind 7 Größen angegeben: für 1 Monat, 3 - 6 Monate, 9 - 12 Monate, 18 Monate und in der Klammer: 2 - 3 Jahre, 4 - 5 Jahre und 6 Jahre. Im Text gibt es aber nur 6 verschiedene Größenangaben. Welche ist n un welche?

25.12.2017 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Libe Henriette, so liest man die verschiedenen Größe: 1. Größe = 1/3 Monage, 2. Größe = 6/9 Monate, 3. Größe = 12/18 Monage, 4. Größe = 2 Jahre, 5. Größe= 3/4 Jahre und 6. Größe = 5/6 Jahre. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2018 - 08:20

country flag Kiki Andersson wrote:

Stickar baby 1911 kragen och har kommit till: när arbetet mäter... tex. 7cm, och ska öka det 1m i varje am-parti genom att sticka 2m i första am= (i mitt fall) 84m .. Upprepa ökningen i växelvis sista o första am i varje am partiosv... Fattar inte hur resår stickningen kommer att funka i resterande varv. Även sista stycket fortsätt sedan med 3rm/ 10 am tills arbetet mäter. Hoppas på hjälp Kiki

15.08.2017 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej! Varje gång du ökat i de aviga partierna ska de ökade maskorna stickas aviga, dvs. det blir 3 rm/4 am efter första ökningen, 3 rm/5 am efter andra ökningen osv.

17.08.2017 - 14:23

country flag Giovanna wrote:

Salve. Vorrei sapere se e' possibile eseguire questo modello con i ferri diritti invece che circolari. Graziee

15.11.2015 - 06:52

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Giovanna, abbiamo risposto alla sua domanda precedente. Entrambi i modelli sono lavorati in tondo: se vuole usare i ferri dritti, può aggiungere una maglia di vivagno al centro dietro e lavorare avanti e indietro, stando attenta alla lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

16.11.2015 - 18:10

country flag Giovanna wrote:

Salve. Vorrei sapere se e' possibile eseguire questo modello con i ferri diritti invece che circolari. Graziee

14.11.2015 - 19:01

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Giovanna, entrambi i modelli sono lavorati in tondo: se vuole usare i ferri dritti, può aggiungere una maglia di vivagno al centro dietro e lavorare avanti e indietro, stando attenta alla lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

14.11.2015 - 22:23

country flag PROVOST wrote:

Bonjour, pour le bonnet si on a 70 mailles à répartir sur 4 aiguilles comment peut on avoir 14 par aiguilles ?

16.12.2014 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Provost, erreur de calcul ... répartissez les 70 m de façon la plus équilibrée: 70/4=17.5, donc vous aurez 2 aiguilles avec 17 m chacune et 2 aiguilles avec 18 m chacune = 70m. Bon tricot!

17.12.2014 - 09:36

country flag PROVOST wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour vos explications.

10.12.2014 - 20:53

country flag PROVOST wrote:

Bonjour, pour le bonnet, on monte les 6 mailles sur 1 aiguille double pointe, on tricote un cache oreille sur une 2eme, on monte les 18 mailles sur une 3eme, le 2eme cache oreille sur une 4eme et les 6 autres dernières mailles ? Avec les 6 premières ? Merci.

10.12.2014 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Provost, pour le bonnet, les tours commencent au milieu dos: on monte 6 m, puis on tricote le 1er cache-oreille, on monte 18 m pour le devant, on tricote le 2e cache-oreille et on monte 6 m (fin du tour) - on va avoir 12 m entre les 2 cache-oreilles au milieu dos, et un total de 70 m (taille 6/9 mois) à répartir sur 4 aiguilles soit 14 m par aig - notez bien que le début des tours se trouve au milieu dos (avant les 6 premières m montées) et se termine par les 6 dernières m montées. Bon tricot!

10.12.2014 - 18:10