DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 113-33
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-118-126 cm / 33"-36¼"-39⅜"-43⅜"-46½"-49½"
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
color no 25, gray/green 450-500-550-600-650-700 g

DROPS POINTED and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") size 4 mm/ US 6 – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
1 repeat of M.1 = width 7.5 cm / 2⅞".
1 repeat of M.3 = width 7 cm / 2¾".

DROPS Mother-of-pearl button w/hole, no 521: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.4. Diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

DECREASING TIP-1 (neckline):
Dec inside 5 garter sts from RS.
Dec as follows after 5 garter sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
Dec as follows before 5 garter sts: K2 tog.

DECREASING TIP-2 (armhole):
Dec inside 4 sts from RS.
Dec as follows after 4 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
Dec as follows before 4 sts: K2 tog.

BUTTONHOLE:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 3rd st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 10, 16, 22, 28 and 34 cm /
4",6¼",8¾",11" and 13⅜".
SIZE M: 11, 17, 23, 29 and 35 cm /
4⅜",6¾",9",11⅜" and 13¾".
SIZE L: 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm /
3½",6¼",9",11¾" and 14½"
SIZE XL: 8, 14, 20, 26, 32 and 38 cm /
3⅛",5½",8",10¼",12½" and 15".
SIZE XXL: 10, 16, 22, 28, 34 and 40 cm /
4",6¼",8¾",11",13⅜" and 15¾".
SIZE XXXL: 11, 17, 23, 29, 35 and 41 cm /
4⅜",6¾",9",11⅜",13¾" and 16⅛".

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BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 171-187-203-235-251-267 sts (includes 5 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm /
US 6 with Muskat. Work first row as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in garter st – see above - M.1 (= 16 sts) across the row until 6 sts remain, K1, 5 front band sts in garter st. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right front band – see above.
Work 3 vertical repeats of M.1 like this and now work next row as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in garter st, M.2 (= 16 sts) across the row until 6 sts remain, K1, 5 front band sts in garter st. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 there are 151-165-179-207-221-235 sts on row. Continue as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in garter st, M.3 (= 14 sts) across the row until 6 sts remain, K1, 5 front band sts in garter st. After 2 vertical repeats of M.3 continue as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in garter st, M.4 (= 14 sts) across the row until 6 sts remain, K1, 5 front band sts in garter st. After 1 vertical repeat of M.4 there are 171-187-203-235-251-267 sts on row. Piece now measures approx 24 cm / 9½". Insert a marker after 45-49-53-61-65-69 sts and a marker after 126-138-150-174-186-198 sts (to mark the sides). Now measure piece from here!
Continue in stockinette st with 5 garter sts each side towards mid front. When piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-1½" from markers inc 1 st on each side of both markers on every 3-3-4-10-11-12 cm / 1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-4"-4⅜"-4¾" a total of 4-4-4-2-2-2 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 11-12-14-15-17-18 cm / 4⅜"-4¾"-5½"-6"-6¾"-7" from markers dec 1 st for neckline each side towards mid front – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 – on every other row a total of 10-9-10-9-10-9 times, then on every 4th row 3-4-4-5-5-6 times and then on every 6th row 3 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6"-6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½"-8" from marker (piece measures approx 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼" from casting on row) bind off 8-8-8-10-12-12 sts each side for armhole (= 4-4-4-5-6-6 sts on each side of both markers) and now complete front and back pieces separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue dec for neck, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at the side – SEE DECREASING TIP-2: 1 st on every other row a total of 4-7-10-14-15-18 times. When all dec are complete there are 25-26-26-27-28-29 sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13⅜"-14¼"-15"-15¾"-16½"-17 ¼" from marker (piece now measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾" from casting on row), bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored.

BACK PIECE: = 81-89-97-107-113-121 sts. Bind off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 73-75-77-79-83-85 sts. When piece measures 31-33-35-37-39-41 cm / 12¼"-13"-13¾"-14½"-15¼-16⅛" from markers work 4 rows garter st on the middle 33-33-35-35-37-37 sts (work remaining sts as before). Now bind off the middle 23-23-25-25-27-27 sts for neck = 25-26-26-27-28-29 sts left on each shoulder. Continue in stockinette st with 5 garter sts towards neckline until piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13⅜"-14¼"-15"-15¾"-16½"-17 ¼" from marker (piece now measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾" from casting on row). Bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 50-66-66-66-82-82 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat. Work M.1 with 1 edge st each side. After 3 vertical repeats of M.1 continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 12-13-13-13-13-14 cm / 4 ¾"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5½" inc 1 st each side on every 2-3.5-2.5-1.5-3-1.5 cm / ¾"-1¼"-⅞"-½"-1⅛"-½" a total of 11-6-8-12-6-9 times = 72-78-82-90-94-100 sts. When piece measures 35-34-33-32-31-30 cm / 13¾"-13⅜"-13"-12½"-12¼"-11¾" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off 3 sts each side for sleeve cap. Bind off to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 2 sts 4-5-4-4-5-5 times and 1 st 0-0-3-6-5-5 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 42 cm / 16½", now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 43 cm / 17".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and set in sleeves.
Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = P2 tog
symbols = P3 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (98)

country flag Lambert Jacqueline wrote:

Pour les manches Je ne comprend pas les augmentations 9 fois tout les combien de rang

26.05.2024 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lambert, en XXXL on augmente pour la manche 9 fois au total tous les 1,5 cm. Mesurez cette hauteur dans votre ouvrage pour calculer le nombre de rangs correspondant à cette hauteur. Bon tricot!

27.05.2024 - 08:48

country flag Lambert Jacqueline wrote:

Je ne comprend plus le modele113 33 à partir des 24 cm mettre un marquer à 53 mailles et à 150

20.05.2024 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lambert, quand l'ouvrage mesure 4 cm après les marqueurs, vous augmentez de chaque côté de chacun de ces marqueurs (4 augmentations à chaque fois) 4 fois tous les 4 cm = vous augmentez ainsi 16 mailles, en même temps, à 14 cm après les marqueurs, commencez à diminuer de chaque côté pour l'encolure. Bon tricot!

21.05.2024 - 13:31

country flag Cheryl Lobo wrote:

I am afraid to start knitting in the round. I have always knitted several sweaters but with 2 needles. I want to start knitting in the round but when I see the instructions they are like a continuous flow not like step by step. Please help.

13.05.2024 - 18:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lobo, this pattern is worked back and forth with circular needles to get enough room for all stitches, ie you work the bottom of the body back and forth on needle starting with right front piece from RS, then divide piece for armhole and finish each piece separately back and forth on needle. Sleeves are also worked back and forth on circular needles. Then sew all pieces together. Happy knitting!

14.05.2024 - 07:35

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Wunderschoene Jacke

05.05.2024 - 21:29

country flag Gisela Hohn wrote:

Hallo und straveijte! Ich habe die ersten 9 Reihen im Muster M1 jetzt gestrickt, aber wie werden die vielen Zusammen-Maschen denn aufgelöst, sodass ich wieder auf die ursprüngliche Maschenzahl (Gr. M: 187 M) komme? Danke im Voraus und Grüße aus Bulgarien Gisela

24.04.2024 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hohn, bei der 9. Reihe wird man Maschen abnehmen - siehe die 5 letzten Symbol der Diagrambeschreibung, so werden insgesamt 8 Maschen abgenommen und wieder 16 M in jedem M..1 - siehe auch dieses Video, wo ein ähnliches Muster gestrickt wird. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

25.04.2024 - 08:15

country flag Alison Walker wrote:

Thank you for your answer but I am still unsure. Re sleeve cap 1st instruction is to cast off 2sts each side on every other row. I have taken that to mean cast off 2 sts at the beginning of each row as you can’t cast off at an end of a row. To do this would equal 8 rows for 1st size casting off 16sts in total. The next instruction is Cast of 2 sts each side every row, total of 4 sts per row so should I cast of 4 sts at the beginning of each row as I can not cast off at the end of a row.

24.04.2024 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alison, yes, that is the correct way, if the pattern says "cast of on bot side" you cast of the beginning of both RS and WS rows. If it says "cast of 2 stitches on both sides", then you cast off 2 stitches of the beginning of each row. I hope that helps. Happy Knitting!

24.04.2024 - 22:58

country flag Alison Walker wrote:

I am very puzzled about the decrease instructions on the sleeve. It says to cast of on each side of every other row. It is not possible to cast off on each side so I thought I would do this on one side every row. But then I am told to cast off both sides on each row. So how do we do this. If I cast off just at the beginning of the row then it becomes every other row. Thank you for your help.

22.04.2024 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Alison, Yes, you can cast off at the beginning of each row; just make sure the cast offs are the same on each side. Happy knitting!

23.04.2024 - 06:41

country flag Anette wrote:

Hallo, ich habe den ersten Papport M1 gestrickt. Nun kommt der 2.. Müssen die linken Manschen immer über denen vom vorherigen Rapport liegen oder verschiebt sich das Muster. Liebe Grüße Anette

07.03.2024 - 17:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anette, am Ende M.1 sind es 16 M übrig; das Diagram wird man ab der 1. Reihe (= 16 Maschen) wiederholen, dh die linken Maschen im 2. Rapport werden über die vom 1 Rapport gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

08.03.2024 - 08:07

country flag Asyli wrote:

Bonjour, sur les photos, le bas du cardigan présente des jolies ondulations et c'est ce qui me plaît dans ce modèle. mais comment s'obtiennent-elles ? J'ai suivi les explications et tricoté quelques rangs de M1 mais pour le moment mon bord reste droit :( Merci

15.02.2023 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Aysli, c'est effectivement le diagramme M.1 qui va former ces ondulations, mais il vous faudra fort probablement le tricoter en entier, voir les 3 fois en hauteur pour bien voir ces ondulations. Bon tricot!

16.02.2023 - 11:46

country flag Anna-Maria wrote:

Sehe ich das richtig? Am Ärmel gibt es offensichtlich nur rechts u. links in jeder 2. Reihe eine Zunahme. Nach 7 Reihen sind also 14 Maschen mehr auf der Nadel. Wenn das Muster 1x gestrickt ist, werden aber mehr Maschen abgenommen. In einer Muster Folge sind es 7 Maschen. Aber dieser Maschensatz ist ja 6x in einer Reihe???

02.01.2023 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anna-Maria, richtig, es wird zuerst 2 Maschen bei der 1. dann bei der 3., bei der 5. und bei der 7. Reihe zugenommen (= 16+8 = 24 Maschen sind es dann). Bei der 9. Reihe sollen Sie aber abnehmen: 5 M re, 2 M rechts zs, 2 M li zs, 2 M re zs, 3 M li zs, 2 m re zs, 2 M li zs, 2 M re zs, 4 M rechts = 16 Maschen wieder. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2023 - 16:32