DROPS Baby / 11 / 14

Brume de Mer by DROPS Design

Jacket or sweater with round yoke and hat in Passion or Air.

  • Brume de Mer / DROPS Baby 11-14 - Jacket or sweater with round yoke and hat in Passion or Air.
  • Brume de Mer / DROPS Baby 11-14 - Jacket or sweater with round yoke and hat in Passion or Air.
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 -86/92
Size in feet: 1f8/1ft10 - 2ft/2ft3 - 2ft5/2ft7 - 2ft9/3ft

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 50-56-62-70 cm = 19 3/4"-22"-24 3/8"-27 1/2"
Full length: 27-29-32-35 cm = 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/2"-13 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.


Materials: DROPS Passion from Garnstudio
Jacket/Sweater:
150-150-200-200 g color no 08, lavender / 09 blue
Hat:
50-50-50-50 g color no 08, lavender / 09 blue

Or use:
DROPS Air from Garnstudio
Jacket/Sweater:
100-100-150-150 g color no 15, purple haze / 09 navy blue
Hat:
50-50-50-50 g color no 15, purple haze / 09 navy blue

DROPS circular needle and pointed needles size 5.5mm = US 9
DROPS pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 (for hat)
DROPS gel button, no 620 (white), jacket 6 pcs, sweater 2 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Passion DROPS Passion
60% Wool, 25% Viscose, 15% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge:
Jacket/sweater: 16 sts x 21 rows on needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
Hat: 17 sts x 22 rows on needle size 5 MM = US 8 = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): knit all rows.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side.

Buttonhole (apply to jacket): Make 5 buttonholes on right front edge from the RS. 1 buttonhole = bind off the 3rd st from the edge and cast on 1 new st on the return row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 1, 6, 11, 17 and 22 cm = 3/8", 2 3/8", 4 3/8", 6 3/4" and 8 3/4"
Size 6/9 months: 1, 7, 12, 18 and 23 cm = 3/8", 2 3/4", 4 3/4", 7" and 9"
Size 12/18 months: 1, 7, 13, 20 and 26 cm = 3/8", 2 3/4", 5 1/8", 8" and 10 1/4"
Size 24 months: 1, 8, 15, 22 and 28 cm = 3/8", 3 1/8", 6", 8 3/4" and 11"
Note! There will also be a buttonhole on the neck border.
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JACKET:
Front and back piece: Knit the jacket back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 84-94-104-116 sts (incl 4 edge sts each side towards mid front, knitted in garter sts throughout) with Passion or Air on needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and knit M.1 with 4 edge sts each side – remember buttonholes on right front piece. After M.1 continue in stockinette sts. When piece measures 16-17-19-21 cm = 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7 1/2"-8 1/4", knit next row as follows from the RS: knit 19-22-24-27 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 34-38-44-50 sts (= back piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 19-22-24-27 sts (= front piece). Put the piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 24-26-28-28 sts with Passion or Air on pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9. Knit M.1 and finish the sleeve in stockinette sts. At the same time when piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" inc 1 st each side on every 5th row a total of 5-6-6-8 times = 34-38-40-44 sts. When piece measures 15-17-18-23 cm = 6"-6 3/4"-7"-9" bind off 4 sts each side for armhole = 26-30-32-36 sts. Knit the other sleeve.

Yoke: Put sleeves in on the same needle as body piece where you bind off for armholes = 124-142-156-176 sts. Continue in M.2 with edge sts in garter sts. At the same time dec 12-14-14-16 sts evenly on every 4th row a total of 6-6-7-7 times (make sure to dec on a row in stockinette sts from the RS, and don’t dec over the edge sts) = 52-58-58-64 sts. When piece measures 27-29-32-35 cm = 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/2"-13 3/4" dec 10-12-10-12 sts evenly on row = 42-46-48-52 sts. Knit 4 rows garter sts over all sts, at the same time make a buttonhole over the others on right front edge. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew the sleeve seams and sew the openings under arms. Sew on buttons.
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SWEATER:
Front and back piece: Knit the sweater round on circular needle. Cast on 80-90-100-112 sts with Passion or Air on needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and knit M.1. After M.1 continue in stockinette sts. When piece measures 16-17-19-21 cm = 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7 1/2"-8 1/4", knit next row as follows from the RS: bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 34-39-44-50 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 34-39-44-50 sts (= back piece). Put the piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 24-26-28-28 sts with Passion or Air on pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9. Knit M.1 and finish the sleeve in stockinette sts. At the same time when piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" inc 1 st each side on every 5th row a total of 5-6-6-8 times = 34-38-40-44 sts. When piece measures 15-17-18-23 cm = 6"-6 3/4"-7"-9" bind off 4 sts each side for armhole = 26-30-32-36 sts. Knit the other sleeve. Insert a marking thread between the 2 middle sts at the top of left sleeve.

Yoke: Put sleeves in on the same needle as body piece where you bind off for armholes (put the sleeve with MT in on the left side) = 120-138-152-172 sts. Continue in M.2. At the same time dec 12-14-14-16 sts evenly on every 4th row a total of 6-6-7-7 times (make sure to dec on a row in stockinette sts from the RS). At the same time after 4-4-5-5 dec divide the piece on mid left shoulder for slit (ref MT) and finish the sweater back and forth on needle. Cast on 4 new sts on back piece by the slit and continue with these 4 sts and 4 sts on front piece in garter sts. At the same time after 1 cm = 3/8" make 1 buttonhole on the front piece by the slit. Buttonhole = bind off 3rd st from edge and cast on 1 new st on next row. Continue the dec as described earlier but do not dec over the 4 slit sts each side. When piece measures 27-29-32-35 cm = 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/2"-13 3/4" dec 10-12-10-12 sts evenly on row = 42-46-48-52 sts. Knit 4 rows garter sts over all sts, at the same time make a buttonhole over the other. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew the sleeve seams and sew the openings under arms. Sew on buttons on shoulder.
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HAT:
To fit head circumference: 41-44-46-48 cm = 16 1/8"-17 1/4"-18"-19"

Loosely cast on 56-60-64-68 sts on pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 with Passion or Air. Knit 10 cm = 4” garter sts and continue in stockinette sts.
When piece measures 17-18-19-20 cm = 6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8" dec 9-10-10-11 sts evenly and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 5 times = 11-10-14-13 sts.
Cut the thread and pull through remaining sts.
Sew tog hat mid back.
Fold edge approx 6 cm = 2 3/8" towards the RS and attach.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 11-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Michelle Campbell 30.04.2021 - 19:01:

On the hat, will you please explain what this means? "...on every other row a total of 5 times = 11-10-14-13 sts. I do not understand what you mean by stating = 11-10-14-13 sts. I realize that it means decreasing, but unsure as to what the number of stitches means.

user icon DROPS Design 01.05.2021 kl. 00:26:

Dear Michelle, those are the number of stitches you will have left over after doing all those decreases. Happy Knitting!

country flag Sille 10.01.2021 - 19:14:

Hej I opskriften omkring aflukning til knaphul, står der at man skal lukke 3 af for hvert hul, og slå 1 op på næste pind. Giver dette det rigtige maskeantal? Og er det rigtigt forstået?

user icon DROPS Design 15.01.2021 kl. 15:54:

Hej Sille, nej du lukker 3. (tredje) maske af (ikke 3 masker). God fornøjelse!

country flag Lilly 03.11.2020 - 17:53:

Pullover-Teilung an der Schulter: beim Teilen/Wenden bin ich auf der linken Seite des Rückenteils. Werden die 4 Maschen dann auf links angeschlagen? Wie geht das? Oder schlage ich rechts an als Anfang der Krausrippen? Sind am Rückenteil 8 Maschen Krausrippen und am Vorderteil 4? Es heißt nach dem Anschlagen von 4 Maschen, 4 M Krausrippe auf jeder Seite des Schlitzes weiter stricken. Gleichzeitig nach 1 cm 1 Knopfloch : nach 1cm Krausrippenhöhe? Vielen Dank schon im Voraus!

user icon DROPS Design 04.11.2020 kl. 08:48:

Liebe Lilly, wenn Sie die Passen teilen sollen Sie 4 neuen Maschen am Ende der 2 ersten Reihen anschlagen, diese 4 neuen Maschen stricken Sie jetzt krausrechts - und die anderen Maschen wie zuvor, dh es sind 4 Maschen kraus rechts am Anfang der Hinreihe (= Schulter) und auch 4 Maschen kraus rechts am Ende der Hinreihen (= am Rückenteil)- 1 cm nach dieser Teilung stricken Sie 1 Knofloch. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Karine 08.10.2019 - 20:07:

Hei. Finnes denne i størrelse 4 år også? Hvis ikke, har dere forslag til en annen oppskrift der jeg kan strikke samme mønster/diagram?

user icon DROPS Design 09.10.2019 kl. 12:32:

Hei Karine, Det finnes mange oppskrifter for barn i vår samling, bare skriv barnegenser i søk-boksen og velg den du liker best. God fornøyelse!

country flag Janet 19.02.2019 - 14:02:

What does (ref MT) mean in this sentence? At the same time after 4-4-5-5 dec divide the piece on mid left shoulder for slit (ref MT)

user icon DROPS Design 19.02.2019 kl. 15:19:

Dear Janet, after you have decrease 4-4-5-5 times, divide piece where you added the marker on left shoulder and continue working back and forth casting on 4 new sts on each side for the button bands. Happy knitting!

country flag Eva Wahlbeck 02.02.2019 - 15:23:

Det står att man ska öka vart femte varv i båda sidorna på ärmen, betyder det, att man räknar ökningsvarvet som varv ett? Det blir konstigt, då man ska göra ökningar på avigsidan,

user icon DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 17:51:

Hej, det blir 4 varv mellan ökningarna, så varannan gång görs då ökningarna från avigsidan.

country flag Peppis 27.06.2018 - 21:13:

Hur dan ökning ska man göra?\\r\\nDe blev snett på ena sidan och rakt på andra.

country flag Astrid 24.03.2017 - 15:56:

Werden die Ärmel rund gestrickt oder hin und zurück?

user icon DROPS Design 24.03.2017 kl. 17:11:

Liebe Astrid, die Ärmel sind hin und zurück gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Sarah Bacon 17.06.2016 - 01:17:

Looks lovely, now can't wait to start this, l knit for a succession of small people and this sweater will be a constant in my armoury of patterns, now knit for 8 boys and 3 girls all under 3, so this is just lovely and that little bit different, thank you, love patterns that you can.use for boy or girl as some are siblings, just a change of colour, again thank you

country flag Dolmazon Michele 11.06.2014 - 17:02:

L'empiècement doit être réalisé ainsi: les diminutions sont à faire de part et d'autre des 8 mailes centrales dos. d'un côté 2m ens de l'autre 1m glissée par dessus la suivante . la symétrie est alors respectée.Il était bon de le préciser

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