DROPS Baby / 11 / 28

Mister Bean by DROPS Design

Teddy knitted in “Alpaca”.

Tags: animals, toys,
Finished measurements: height approx 38-40 cm / 15"-15 3/4"

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
200 g color no. 607, light brown mix
+ a remainder of dark brown for eyes and snout.
+ poly stuffing for filling

DROPS double pointed needle size 5 mm / US 8

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100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 16 sts x 21 rows on needles size 5 mm / US 8 with 3 strands of Alpaca in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Inc. tips: Inc as follows: Make a yo, on the returning row twist and knit the yo to avoid a hole.

Teddy: The teddy is knitted with 3 strands of Alpaca.
Make the legs first, then the body and arms and finally the head and then the ears.

Legs:
Cast on 9 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 3 strands of Alpaca and distribute sts evenly on 3 needles. Insert a marker at the beg of round.
Round 1-6: Knit in stockinette sts, inc 3 sts evenly on each round – see Inc. tips above = 27 sts.
Round 7-11: Knit in stockinette sts.
Round 12: *Slip a st as if to knit, K2 tog psso* , repeat 3 times, knit the remaining 18 sts in stockinette sts = 21 sts in total.
Round 13-16: Knit in stockinette sts
Round 17: K2, inc. 1 st, K19 = 22 sts.
Round 18-19: Knit in stockinette sts
Round 20: K2, inc. 1 st, K20 = 23 sts.
Round 21-22: Knit in stockinette sts.
Round 23: K3, inc. 1 st, K21 = 24 sts.
Continue in stockinette sts until the piece measures 12 cm / 4¾''.

Now bind off for the thigh as follows:
K6 sts and put them on a holder (= the middle of the leg).
Put the remaining sts on 1 needle and finish the leg in stockinette sts back and forth on needle as follows:
Knit until 1 st left and turn. Slip a st as if to knit and continue until 1 st left, turn, slip a st as if to knit and continue until 2 sts left, turn, slip a st as if to knit and continue until 2 sts left, turn, slip a st as if to knit and continue until 3 sts left, turn, slip a st as if to knit and continue until 3 sts left, turn slip a st as if to knit and K all sts.
There are still 24 sts remaining incl the 6 sts from the holder.

Put the sts from the holder back on the needle and distribute the sts over 3 needles, knit 1 round of stockinette sts but to make sure the 3 sts each side of the 6 sts from the holder become tight enough, knit them as follows:
Pick 1 st up from previous round and K this one tog with the st on the needle (this means the sts are knitted double) – repeat for all 3 sts each side.
Knit 1 round as follows: K20, bind off 2 sts (= the inside of the leg), K2 = 22 sts.
Pull the opening tog at the bottom of the foot. Put the piece aside and knit the other leg, but knit the last round as follows: K8, bind off 2 sts (= the inside of the leg), K14 = 22 sts.

Body:
Put both legs tog on the 3 needles, at the same time cast on 2 new sts in between the legs at the front and at the back = 48 sts.
Distribute the sts so the beg of the round will be at the mid back of the teddy (it is a good idea to insert a marker).
Measure from here onwards!

Round 1-2: Stockinette sts
Round 3: K 14, K2 tog, K16, K2 tog, K14.
Round 4: K 14, K2 tog, K14, K2 tog, K14 = 44 sts
Continue in stockinette sts until the piece measures 9 cm / 3½''.
Next round: K6, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 tog, K8, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, K2 tog, K6 = 34 sts
Next round: K2, K2 tog, K2 tog, K1, bind off 4 sts ( “armhole”), K1, K2 tog, K6, K2 tog, K1, bind off 4 sts (= “armhole”), K1, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2, then K the first 5 sts on round to the ”armhole”. This leaves 10 sts for the back and 10 sts for the front, continue to knit each piece separately.

Back piece:
Knit in stockinette sts, at the same time K the first 2 sts and then the last 2 sts tog (seen from the RS), repeat the dec on every other row until 4 sts left. Put these sts on a holder.

Front piece:
Knit as the back piece.

Right Arm:
Cast on and knit as the leg until round 16. Continue in stockinette sts over all sts until the piece measures 12 cm/4¾''.
Next round: K6, bind off 2 sts (= mid under arm), K 13 sts.
Continue back and forth on needle. K the the first 2 sts and then the last 2 sts tog (seen from the RS) on every row from RS until 5 sts left. Put the sts on a holder. Pull the opening tog at the bottom of the arm with the casting on thread, sew tight.

Left Arm:
Cast on and knit as right arm until the piece measures 12 cm/4¾''.
Next round: K16, bind off 2 stitches for underarm, K3 sts.
Continue and finish as right arm.

Head:
Put the remaining sts from the back piece, arm, front piece and arm (= 18sts) on the 3 needles as follows: Distribute the sts so the round begins mid back (it is a good idea to insert a marker).
Round 1: Stockinette sts
Round 2: Inc 6 sts evenly distributed on round = 24 sts
Round 3-6: Inc 3 sts evenly distributed on each round.
Round 7-8: Inc 9 sts evenly distributed on each round = 54 sts. Continue in stockinette sts until the piece measures 7 cm / 2¾''
Next round: K21 sts, *slip a st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso*, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, K21 sts = 46 sts
Next round: K21 sts, slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso, slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso, K21 sts = 44 sts.
Next round: *K2, K2 tog*, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, K12, *K2 tog, K2*, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times = 36 sts
Next round: K7, K3 sts and then put them on a safety pin (= sts for the ear), K16 , K3 sts and then put them on a safety pin (= sts for the ear) K7.
On the following round pick up 1 st behind each st from the safety pin (sts are now both on the safety pin and the needle). Knit in stockinette sts until the piece measures approx. 14 cm / 5½''. K 2 tog around = 18 sts.
K 2 tog around one more time, cut the yarn and pull through the remaining 9 sts.

Ear: Pick up 3 sts from one safety pin. Knit the ear in garter sts throughout (= knit all rows).
Row 1: K1, make a yo, K1, make a yo, K1 = 5 sts
Row 2: K the 5 sts
Row 3: K1, *make a yo, K1*, repeat from *-* until finish = 9 sts.
Row 4: K the 9 sts.
Row 5: K1, *make a yo, K1*, repeat from *-* until finish = 17 sts. Continue to knit in garter sts until the ear measures approx. 6 cm / 2 3/8''.
Next row: *K all sts tog 2 by 2 and finish with K1, K all sts on the returning row*, repeat from *-* 3 times = 3 sts left on row.
Bind off. Fill the ear with poly stuffing and sew it tight.
Repeat for the other safety pin.

Assembly:
Fill the teddy with poly stuffing through the hole underneath the arm. Sew the opening in between the legs.
Sew the eyes, the snout and the mouth with a remainder of darker brown or black.
Sew the arms onto the body, pull the arms down so they will be sewn to the body approx 4 rounds underneath the first casting/binding off for the “armhole” (this is done to give the teddy a bit of stomach).

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.10.2013
Right Arm:
Cast on and knit as the leg until round 16. Continue in stockinette sts over all sts until the piece measures 12 cm/4¾''.
Next round: K6, bind off 2 sts (= mid under arm), K 13 sts.
Continue back and forth on needle. K the the first 2 sts and then the last 2 sts tog (seen from the RS) on every row from RS until 5 sts left. Put the sts on a holder. Pull the opening tog at the bottom of the arm with the casting on thread, sew tight.

Left Arm:
Cast on and knit as right arm until the piece measures 12 cm/4¾''.
Next round: K16, bind off 2 stitches for underarm, K3 sts.
Continue and finish as right arm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 11-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Maria 17.10.2020 - 21:24:

Hei! Lurer på noe med armene. Det står at man skal fortsette å strikke fram og tilbake. Er det da meningen at man skal dele strikketøyet på 2 pinner, og det er 19 masker så hvor mange masker skal det være på hver pinne? Eller er det meningen at man skal fortsette å strikke rundt? Var litt vanskelig å forstå

DROPS Design 19.10.2020 kl. 07:11:

Hei Maria, Du strikker fram og tilbake på toppen av ermene for å lage ermtopp som skal festes til ermhullet etterpå. Du kan bruke rundpinne eller vanlige pinner til dette, så lenger du strikker radene fram og tilbake . God fornøyelse!

Eve 21.06.2019 - 11:20:

Kunne tenkt meg å strikke denne i bomullsgarn, hva kan jeg da bytte ut garnet med?

DROPS Design 21.06.2019 kl. 13:47:

Hei Eva. Du kan hekle med 3 tråder Safran. God fornøyelse

GRY ANTONSEN 30.01.2019 - 20:01:

Sitter her og lurer på om jeg skal strikke over de felte maskene når jeg skal strikke frem og tilbake på armene. Blir det ikke hull over de felte maskene?

DROPS Design 31.01.2019 kl. 08:16:

Hei Gry, Du strikker fram og tilbake etter du har felt av maskene til ferdig mål. God fornøyelse!

Terry McClintock 05.03.2018 - 17:22:

Hi, Thank you for the wonderful patterns! I am finishing up the Mister Bean Bear and am having trouble with the ears. If I follow the instructions I end up with big elephant ears and then I'm told to fill and sew them up. Am I meant to fold the ear up and around and sew it that way? Please help! Kind regards,

DROPS Design 06.03.2018 kl. 08:33:

Dear Mrs McClimtock, the ear have been increased to 17 sts then dec to " sts, fill it before sewing it as shown on the picture. Happy knitting!

Doris 02.03.2018 - 05:31:

When starting the body it says I don't understand it says to put both legs together on 3 needles, how do you do this they are both knitted in the round. How do you do this? I am confused.

DROPS Design 02.03.2018 kl. 08:42:

Dear Doris, divide all sts evenly so that they are distributed on 3 needles (= dpn) casting on at the same time 2 sts between legs for mid frontn and mid back = 48 sts. Happy knitting!

Beatrice 24.11.2017 - 12:14:

Mi sembra che ci sia qualcosa che non va nelle spiegazioni della parte finale delle gambe, il punto in cui nel ferro di ritorno scrive di passare 1 m a dir e continuare a lavorare fino a quando rimangono 3 maglie, girare passare una maglia a diritto e lavorare tutte le maglie a diritto, continuando il lavoro, lavorando a maglie doppie le 3 m a ogni lato della 6 maglie in sospeso, si ottiene un buco. Grazie in anticipo per la risposta.

Erika 06.11.2017 - 21:14:

Leg, round 23. It is K3. It should be K2?

Eva 20.06.2016 - 15:53:

Dank voor reactie, maar ik snap het(nog) niet.....de raglan (schuine kant i.v.m. afkanten) is bij het lijf 6 toeren hoog (drie keer twee steken minderen)en bij de pootjes 14 (zeven keer twee steken minderen) als ik volgens beschrijving minder.Ik neem aan dat de twee afgekante steken voor armsgat op elkaar genaaid worden.

DROPS Design 21.06.2016 kl. 12:59:

Hoi Eva. De minderingen voor pootjes en buik staan los van elkaar, ze moeten niet op een gelijke hoogte. Je zet daarna de poten en lijf op een naald om het hoofd te breien. Je vult het beertjes door de gaatjes onder de voorpoten en sluit daarna de naadjes daar.

Eva 16.06.2016 - 16:49:

Bij het minderen lijf kom ik op drie keer aan begin en einde tour(van 10 tot 4 steken resp bij voor- achterpand). Bij de armpjes is dat 7 keer (van 19 tot 5 steken ), waardoor dit gedeelde veel te lang wordt om netjes aan lijf te zetten. Wil zo graag verder, maar kom er niet uit

DROPS Design 17.06.2016 kl. 11:29:

Hoi Eva. Ja, je mindert voor het lijf 3 keer om van 10 tot 4 st te komen. In elke 2e nld = 6 nld in totaal. Hetzelfde klopt ook bij de mouwen. Ik kan niet inschatten of jouw werk langer is dan die in het patroon. Maar heb je een ander garen/stekenverhouding kan dat zijn. Of je vindt het niet moois zoals het patroon het beschrijft - dan zou ik het gewoon aanpassen naar wat jij zelf het mooiste vindt.

Marion Böhm 22.05.2016 - 14:28:

Hallo, wenn die 6 Maschen vom Hilfsfaden bei den Beinen wieder dazu genommen werden, wo fängt dann die Reihe an??? Die Markierung liegt ja vor den 6 Maschen, der Arbeitsfaden jetzt aber nicht mehr. Ich bin der Meinung, die 2 Maschen, die in der letzten Reihe abgekettet werden, sind nicht an der richtigen Stelle.

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