DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Dresses
  4. DROPS
  5. 110
  6. 3

Stella Alpina

DROPS dress in ”Alpaca” and ”Fabel” with star pattern border. Size S - XXL.

Change language:

DROPS 110-3
Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-100-110-120 cm [31½"-35½"-39⅜"-43⅜"-47¼"]
Full length: 83-84-86-87-89 cm [32¾"-33"-33⅞"-34¼"-35"]
Because of the weight of the yarn the dress will be approx 5 cm [2"] longer than measurements in diagram when worn.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550 g color no 506, dark gray
50 g for all sizes, color no 517, gray
50 g for all sizes color no 100 off-white
50 g for all sizes color no 7120, light gray/green
and use: DROPS Fabel from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-200 g color no 905, black/white mix

DROPS circular needle (80 cm [32"]) size 6 mm [US10] – or size needed to get 14 sts x 28 rows in garter st with 1 thread Alpaca + 1 thread Fabel = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

DROPS double pointed and circular needle (40 + 80 cm [16" and 32"]) size 4.5 mm [US 7] – or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st with 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
Measurement tip: Measure piece when lying flat.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Garter st, in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.

Shortened rows: To shape the skirt work shortened rows as follows: 2 rows garter st on all sts, * 1 row garter st on 25 sts only, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row, 4 rows garter st on all sts, 1 row garter st on 50 sts only, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row, 4 rows garter st on all sts *, repeat from *-*.
I.e. 1 repeat = 12 rows at bottom and 8 rows at top.

Pattern: See diagram M.1, the entire pattern is worked in stockinette st with 2 threads Alpaca.

SKIRT
Worked from side to side in garter st from mid back to mid back. Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Loosely cast on 75 sts (for all sizes) on circular needle size 6 mm [US 10] with 1 thread Fabel and 1 thread dark gray Alpaca. Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) after 25 sts and 1 MT after 50 sts and let the MT follow the piece as you go along.
Work garter st with shortened rows – see above. Continue like this until piece measures 36-40-44-48-52 cm [14 ¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½"] at the top, piece measures approx 54-60-66-72-78 cm [21¼"-23⅝"-26"-28⅜"-30¾"] at the other side towards the bottom edge – see Measurement tip!
Insert 1 MT in piece (= mid front) and continue as before until piece on this side of MT = piece on the other side of MT. Piece now measures 72-80-88-96-104 cm [28⅜"-31½"-34⅝"-37¾"-41"] at the top and 108-120-132-144-156 cm [47¼"-52"-56½"-61¼"] along bottom edge. Bind off very loosely. Sew skirt tog mid back, edge to edge from RS to avoid a chunky seam.

Yoke:
Worked in 2 threads Alpaca. Pick up 130-144-158-172-188 sts with dark gray Alpaca on circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] along the top of skirt - make sure the skirt seam sits mid back, beg picking up sts at one side and continue all the way round! Now measure piece from here!
P 1 round, 2 rows garter st with gray and 2 rows garter st with light gray/green. Change to off-white, K 1 round, at the same time inc evenly to 144-162-180-198-216 sts. Insert 1 MT each side as follows:
Size S: Insert MT in middle of st at side so that there are 71 sts on front and back piece + 1 st each side.
Size M: Insert MT between 2 sts at side so that there are 81 sts on front and back piece.
Size L: Insert MT in middle of st at side so that there are 89 sts on front and back piece + 1 st each side.
Size XL: Insert MT between 2 sts at side so that there are 99 sts on front and back piece.
Size XXL: Insert MT in middle of st at side so that there are 107 sts on front and back piece + 1 st each side.
All sizes: Work M.1 – make sure that st marked with an arrow sits mid front. After M.1 work 2 rows garter st with light gray/green, 2 rows garter st with gray and 2 rows garter st in dark gray. Continue in stockinette st and dark gray.
When yoke measures 10-10-11-11-12 cm [4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜"-4¾"] bind off 5-6-7-8-9 sts each side for armhole = 67-75-83-91-99 sts on front and back piece. Now complete each piece separately.

Front piece:
= 67-75-83-91-99 sts. Continue in stockinette st, at the same time bind off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3 rimes and 1 st 2-3-3-4-5 times = 63-65-67-69-71 sts. When piece measures 22-23-24-25-27 cm [8¾"-9"-9½"-9¾"-10⅝"] slip the middle 15-17-17-19-19 sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row towards mid front: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 29-30-32-33-35 cm [11⅜"-11¾"-12½"-13"-13¾"]. The whole dress now measures approx 83-84-86-87-89 cm [32¾"-33"-33⅞"-34¼"-35"] .

Back piece:
= 67-75-83-91-99 sts. Bind off for armhole as described for front piece = 63-65-67-69-71 sts. When piece measures 27-28-30-31-33 cm [10⅝"-11"-11¾"-12¼"-13"], bind off the middle 27-29-29-31-31 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. On next row bind off 2 sts on neckline = 16-16-17-17-18 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 29-30-32-33-35 cm [11⅜"-11¾"-12½"-13"-13¾"].

Sleeves:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40-42-44-46-48 sts on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with 2 threads dark gray Alpaca. Work 6 rounds garter st and continue in stockinette st. At the same time when piece measures 10 cm [4"] inc 2 sts mid under arm on every 3.5-3.5-3-2.5-2 cm [1¼"-1¼"-1⅛"-⅞"-¾"] a total of 11-11-12-14-16 times = 62-64-68-74-80 sts. When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45 cm [19¼"-19"-18½"-18"-17¾"] (less on larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap) bind off 6 sts mid under arm for armhole and complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 2-3-4-5-6 times, and then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56 cm [22"], now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 57 cm [22½"].

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams.
Neckline: Pick up approx 75 to 85 sts (includes sts on stitch holder mid front) on small circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with 1 thread dark gray Alpaca + 1 thread Fabel. P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and bind off in K sts.
Set in sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 31.03.2009
front piece: When piece measures 22-23-24-25-27 cm [8¾”-9”-9½”-9¾”-10 5/8”] slip the middle 15-17-17-19-19 sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each shoulder separately.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off-white
symbols = dark gray
symbols = gray
symbols = light gray/green
diagram
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Stella Alpina

Jolene Dalton Gailey, United States

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Comments / Questions (79)

country flag Emilie wrote:

Ved forstykke: “strik indtil arbejdet måler 23 cm” er dette inkl det mønstrede stykke, altså hele bærestykket eller efter mønsterets slut?

03.01.2022 - 14:03

country flag Emilie wrote:

Hvad betyder “Strik (130) m op”? Skal disse bare slås op alm på pind, eller skal de slås op i den allerede strikkede nederdel?

20.12.2021 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Emilie, De skal strikkes op i den strikkede nederdel :)

21.12.2021 - 08:09

country flag Michela wrote:

Buongiorno. Lo sprone è lavorato tutto in due capi alpaca, anche il motivo centrale? Dei colori grigio chiaro, verde e panna però, seguendo le indicazioni del modello, ho acquistato solo 50 g a colore e quindi ho solo 1 gomitolo per colore: se lo uso in due capi, basterà? Il colore Fabel (3 gomitoli da 50 g) l'ho finito per la gonna e non ne ho più per il bordo dello scollo! Le quantità di lana sono corrette? Sto lavorando una misura M. Grazie per la risposta. Cordiali saluti

24.02.2021 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Michela, le istruzioni sono corrette: il suo campione corrisponde a quello indicato? Buon lavoro!

25.02.2021 - 20:06

country flag Solveig wrote:

Hvordan finder jeg ud af, hvilken str kjolen skal strikkes i? Jeg synes ikke, jeg kan se en guide?

21.11.2020 - 11:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej solveig, således læser du måleskitsen nederst i opskrifter for at vælge størrelse: Således læser du måleskitsen

23.11.2020 - 15:42

country flag Elin Sandane wrote:

Sett 1 merke i arb (= midt foran). Strikk videre på samme måte til det er strikket like mange pinner på hver side av merke midt foran. Arb måler nå totalt 72-80-88-96-104 cm øverst og 108-120-132-144-156 cm nederst, fell svært løst av. Jeg forstår ikke helt hva jeg skal gjøre her, kan du hjelpe meg?

04.12.2018 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Elin. Når arbeidet måler 36-40-44-48-52 cm i den ene siden og 54-60-66-72-78 cm i den andre siden har du strikket halve skjørtet. Du setter et merke i arbeidet her, som markerer midt foran. Så fortsetter du med forkortede pinner som før til du har strikket like langt som før du satte merket. Altså du strikker til arbeidet måler totalt 72-80-88-96-104 cm øverst og 108-120-132-144-156 cm nederst. Så feller du av og syr sammen oppleggskanten og avfellingskanten (= midt bak). God fornøyelse.

05.12.2018 - 08:09

country flag Jozefien De Bruijn wrote:

Ik had mijn vraag bij de opmerkingen geplaatst, dus even opnieuw: Model 140-30 heb ik al gemaakt, superfijn om te dragen, en wil nu dit model gaan breien. Echter met een enkele draad Fabel. De maat van de naalden en het aantal steken zal verschillen. Kan ik alles simpelweg met twee vermenigvuldigen ? Of hoe zou ik dat anders moeten aanpassen ?

08.11.2017 - 10:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Jozefien, Het beste is om eerst een proeflapje te maken en op basis van de stekenverhouding die daar uit komt, uit te rekenen hoeveel je op moet zetten, hoeveel je moet meerderen/minderen etc. Je kunt niet zomaar alles keer 2 doen, maar je moet het even opnieuw uitrekenen.

09.11.2017 - 10:05

country flag Jozefien De Bruijn wrote:

De jurk nr 140-30 heb ik al gemaakt, echt superfijn om te dragen ! Nu zou ik dit model ook willen maken, maar dan van een enkele draad Fabel. Het aantal steken en de maat van de naald zullen anders zijn dan in de beschrijving. Kan ik alles gewoon met twee vermenigvuldigen ? Of hoe moet ik dat anders berekenen ?

08.11.2017 - 10:48

country flag LAPALUS wrote:

Très beau modèle - taille parfaitement. J'ai pris T.M pour un 38 merci pour vos explications gratuites Christiane

13.02.2016 - 17:49

country flag Anu wrote:

Thank you .Checked for an update on my question as soon as I came back from work.For a newbie to short rows this explanation was easy to understand .I am off to a flying start!!!.

22.06.2015 - 16:46

country flag Anu wrote:

Thx for your reply ,but am still confused on short rows - work on 25 st ,turn ,tighten thread and knit on the same 25 sts again( this is a short row). then work on 50sts,turn,tighten and work on the same 50 sts again(short row) .My quesstion - I have CO 75 st - but have worked on 50 sts only .So,once the short rows are done I will knit on all 75 sts? What happens to the remaning 25 sts

21.06.2015 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anu, repeat the short rows from *-* as in pattern: *2 rows garter st on 25 sts only, 4 rows garter st on all sts (= 75 sts), 2 rows garter st on 50 sts only, 4 rows garter st on all sts (=75 sts)*, repeat from *-*. I.e. 1 repeat = 12 rows at bottom (= beg on rows from RS) and 8 rows at top. Happy knitting!

22.06.2015 - 10:34

Stella Alpina



DROPS dress in ”Alpaca” and ”Fabel” with star pattern border. Size S - XXL.

DROPS 110-3
Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-100-110-120 cm [31½"-35½"-39⅜"-43⅜"-47¼"]
Full length: 83-84-86-87-89 cm [32¾"-33"-33⅞"-34¼"-35"]
Because of the weight of the yarn the dress will be approx 5 cm [2"] longer than measurements in diagram when worn.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550 g color no 506, dark gray
50 g for all sizes, color no 517, gray
50 g for all sizes color no 100 off-white
50 g for all sizes color no 7120, light gray/green
and use: DROPS Fabel from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-200 g color no 905, black/white mix

DROPS circular needle (80 cm [32"]) size 6 mm [US10] – or size needed to get 14 sts x 28 rows in garter st with 1 thread Alpaca + 1 thread Fabel = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

DROPS double pointed and circular needle (40 + 80 cm [16" and 32"]) size 4.5 mm [US 7] – or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st with 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Measurement tip: Measure piece when lying flat.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Garter st, in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.

Shortened rows: To shape the skirt work shortened rows as follows: 2 rows garter st on all sts, * 1 row garter st on 25 sts only, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row, 4 rows garter st on all sts, 1 row garter st on 50 sts only, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row, 4 rows garter st on all sts *, repeat from *-*.
I.e. 1 repeat = 12 rows at bottom and 8 rows at top.

Pattern: See diagram M.1, the entire pattern is worked in stockinette st with 2 threads Alpaca.

SKIRT
Worked from side to side in garter st from mid back to mid back. Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Loosely cast on 75 sts (for all sizes) on circular needle size 6 mm [US 10] with 1 thread Fabel and 1 thread dark gray Alpaca. Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) after 25 sts and 1 MT after 50 sts and let the MT follow the piece as you go along.
Work garter st with shortened rows – see above. Continue like this until piece measures 36-40-44-48-52 cm [14 ¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½"] at the top, piece measures approx 54-60-66-72-78 cm [21¼"-23⅝"-26"-28⅜"-30¾"] at the other side towards the bottom edge – see Measurement tip!
Insert 1 MT in piece (= mid front) and continue as before until piece on this side of MT = piece on the other side of MT. Piece now measures 72-80-88-96-104 cm [28⅜"-31½"-34⅝"-37¾"-41"] at the top and 108-120-132-144-156 cm [47¼"-52"-56½"-61¼"] along bottom edge. Bind off very loosely. Sew skirt tog mid back, edge to edge from RS to avoid a chunky seam.

Yoke:
Worked in 2 threads Alpaca. Pick up 130-144-158-172-188 sts with dark gray Alpaca on circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] along the top of skirt - make sure the skirt seam sits mid back, beg picking up sts at one side and continue all the way round! Now measure piece from here!
P 1 round, 2 rows garter st with gray and 2 rows garter st with light gray/green. Change to off-white, K 1 round, at the same time inc evenly to 144-162-180-198-216 sts. Insert 1 MT each side as follows:
Size S: Insert MT in middle of st at side so that there are 71 sts on front and back piece + 1 st each side.
Size M: Insert MT between 2 sts at side so that there are 81 sts on front and back piece.
Size L: Insert MT in middle of st at side so that there are 89 sts on front and back piece + 1 st each side.
Size XL: Insert MT between 2 sts at side so that there are 99 sts on front and back piece.
Size XXL: Insert MT in middle of st at side so that there are 107 sts on front and back piece + 1 st each side.
All sizes: Work M.1 – make sure that st marked with an arrow sits mid front. After M.1 work 2 rows garter st with light gray/green, 2 rows garter st with gray and 2 rows garter st in dark gray. Continue in stockinette st and dark gray.
When yoke measures 10-10-11-11-12 cm [4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜"-4¾"] bind off 5-6-7-8-9 sts each side for armhole = 67-75-83-91-99 sts on front and back piece. Now complete each piece separately.

Front piece:
= 67-75-83-91-99 sts. Continue in stockinette st, at the same time bind off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3 rimes and 1 st 2-3-3-4-5 times = 63-65-67-69-71 sts. When piece measures 22-23-24-25-27 cm [8¾"-9"-9½"-9¾"-10⅝"] slip the middle 15-17-17-19-19 sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row towards mid front: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 29-30-32-33-35 cm [11⅜"-11¾"-12½"-13"-13¾"]. The whole dress now measures approx 83-84-86-87-89 cm [32¾"-33"-33⅞"-34¼"-35"] .

Back piece:
= 67-75-83-91-99 sts. Bind off for armhole as described for front piece = 63-65-67-69-71 sts. When piece measures 27-28-30-31-33 cm [10⅝"-11"-11¾"-12¼"-13"], bind off the middle 27-29-29-31-31 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. On next row bind off 2 sts on neckline = 16-16-17-17-18 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 29-30-32-33-35 cm [11⅜"-11¾"-12½"-13"-13¾"].

Sleeves:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40-42-44-46-48 sts on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with 2 threads dark gray Alpaca. Work 6 rounds garter st and continue in stockinette st. At the same time when piece measures 10 cm [4"] inc 2 sts mid under arm on every 3.5-3.5-3-2.5-2 cm [1¼"-1¼"-1⅛"-⅞"-¾"] a total of 11-11-12-14-16 times = 62-64-68-74-80 sts. When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45 cm [19¼"-19"-18½"-18"-17¾"] (less on larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap) bind off 6 sts mid under arm for armhole and complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 2-3-4-5-6 times, and then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56 cm [22"], now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 57 cm [22½"].

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams.
Neckline: Pick up approx 75 to 85 sts (includes sts on stitch holder mid front) on small circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with 1 thread dark gray Alpaca + 1 thread Fabel. P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and bind off in K sts.
Set in sleeves.

Diagram explanations
symbol = off-white
symbol = dark gray
symbol = gray
symbol = light gray/green

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