DROPS / 109 / 1

Campfire by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS Jumper with hood in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.

  • Campfire / DROPS 109-1 - Knitted DROPS Jumper with hood in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.
  • Campfire / DROPS 109-1 - Knitted DROPS Jumper with hood in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-94-106-116-128-138 cm
[34 5/8''-37''-41¾''-45¾''-50 3/8''-54¼'']
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm [27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’-31½]

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
color no 46, gray: 800-850-950-1000-1100-1200 g

DROPS double pointed needles and circular needle size 8 mm [US 11] (80 cm [32’’]) – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Front bands:
Starting from RS: * K 4 rows, P 2 rows *, repeat from *-*.
Note! Left front i.e the sts that are picked up behind the right front = pick up row counts as the first K row of the K 4 rows.

Body piece: Worked in the round. Cast on 96-104-116-128-140-152 sts on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow. P 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When piece measures 10 cm [4’’] continue in stockinette st. Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) at beg of round and 1 MT after 48-52-58-64-70-76 sts (= the sides). Remember the knitting gauge! When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm [6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''] dec 1 st on each side of both MT (= 4 dec per round). Repeat the dec when piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm [11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾''] = 88-96-108-120-132-144 sts (= 44-48-54-60-66-72 sts on back and front piece). When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm [13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''], cut the thread. Now continue as follows: Beg after the 15-17-20-23-26-29 st from the first MT. Work 14 sts front band – see above – and stockinette st on the next 74-82-94-106-118-130 sts. Now pick up 14 new sts behind the front band = 102-110-122-134-146-158 sts. Continue back and forth on needle with 14 front band sts each side. At the same time when piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm [14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8''] inc 1 st on both sides of each MT (= 4 inc per round). Repeat the inc when piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm [18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''] = 110-118-130-142-154-166 sts. When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm [19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''] bind off 6 sts each side (i.e. 3 sts on each side of MT) for armhole = 98-106-118-130-142-154 sts. Now complete back and front pieces separately.

Back piece: = 42-46-52-58-64-70 sts. Bind off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-4 times = 40-42-44-44-46-46 sts. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm [26¾”-27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’] bind off the middle 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 13-14-14-14-14-14 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm [27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’-31½].

Right front piece: = 28-30-33-36-39-42 sts. Bind off to shape the armhole as described for back piece = 27-28-29-29-30-30 sts. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm [23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25¼”-26¾”-27½’’slip 14 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder and now dec to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 1 st 0-0-1-1-2-2 times = 13-14-14-14-14-14 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm [27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’-31½].

Left front piece: Like right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 28-28-28-32-32-32 sts on needle size 8 mm [US 11]. Insert 1 MT at beg of round. P 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When piece measures 8 cm [3 1/8’’] continue in stockinette st, at the same time dec 2-2-0-4-2-2 sts evenly on first round = 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts. When piece measures 10 cm [4’’] inc 1 st on both sides of MT on every 6-5-5-3.5-3.5-2.5 cm [2 3/8”-2”-2”-1¼”-1¼”-7/8’’] a total of 7-8-8-10-10-12 times = 40-42-44-48-50-54 sts. When piece measures 49-48-48-46-45-44 cm [19¼”-19”-19”-18”-17¾”-17¼”’’] - Note! Less on the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – bind off 3 sts on both sides of MT for armhole, and now complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off to shape the sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-3-4-5-6-7 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56-56-57-57-57-58 cm [22”-22”-22½”-22½”-22½”-22¾”], bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-57-58-58-58-59 cm [22½”-22½”-22¾”-22¾”-22 ¾”23¼”].

Hood: Pick up approx 60 to 65 sts round neckline (includes sts on stitch holder) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow. Work 4 rows garter st with front bands as before. At the same time inc 5 sts evenly (do not inc on front band sts) on the last row = 65 to 70 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 14 front band sts each side as before until hood measures 35-35-36-36-37-37 cm [13¾”-13¾”-14¼”-14¼”-14½”-14½”]. Bind off. Fold hood double and sew tog at top from RS.

Assembly: Set in sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.07.2008
Amount of yarn needed:
800-850-950-1000-1100-1200 g
= 16-17-19-20-22-24 balls


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 109-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (148)

country flag Nupur 07.11.2020 - 12:03:

Hi! I am having trouble seaming the sleeves with the main body. Is there a tutorial available on how I can seam the two when it has been knit in the round? Thanks!

user icon DROPS Design 09.11.2020 kl. 09:56:

Dear Mrs Nupur, sleeves are worked first in the round, then you continue back and forth for the sleeve cap - you should now sew sleeves to yoke - this video shows. Hope this video can help you. Happy knitting!

country flag Kathy 23.08.2019 - 12:36:

This is a lovely hooded sweater. I am excited to make it for the coming fall

country flag Rebecca P 24.02.2019 - 22:35:

Confused, bind off 3 sts each side of MT, now complete back and forth on needle. Bind off to shape sleeve cap each side at beginning of every row... Do I work through to the the end of the row after my 6 BO sts, then begin again where I had been when working in the round, but work the WS? Or, work through to the armhole and then turn to work WS, doing the BO for the sleeve cap?

user icon DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 11:19:

Dear Rebecca, after you have bound off the 6 sts mid under sleeve, continue back and forth for sleeve cap binding off at the beginning of each row (=both from RS and from WS) 2 sts 1 time, then 1 stitch 2-6 times (see size) etc.. Happy knitting!

country flag Petra 19.11.2018 - 17:17:

Ich finde die Abnahme mit den Makierungsfäden etwas verwirrend. Wenn ich das richtig verstanden habe, setzt man am Anfang der Reihe eine Markierung und dann in der Mitte bei 52M. Anschließend bei z.B. 16cm nimmt man um die Markierungen jeweils 2M ab =4 M. Wie macht man das genau? 1 Abnahme, 1M stricken, wieder eine Abnahme? Dann würde da aber ein Loch entstehen:( Danke ganz herzlichst im Voraus!

user icon DROPS Design 20.11.2018 kl. 08:01:

Liebe Petra, da die Maschenanzahl gerade ist, können Sie entweder 1 Abnahme, Markierung, 1 Abnahme stricken, oder mit 2 Maschen zwischen den Abnahmen: 1 Abnahme, 1 Masche, Markierung, 1 Masche, 1 Abnahme. Es soll kein Loch entstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Helma 28.03.2018 - 20:14:

Het is een supertrui geworden in een mooi gemêleerd garen. Ik heb voor- en achterpand apart gebreid en dat ging helemaal goed. Zelfs de koppen van de mouwen pasten precies, wat bij mij niet altijd het geval is. Twee weken breien en klaar is kees.

country flag Anne 08.03.2018 - 14:08:

Hallo! Könnte man daraus auch einen Jungenpulli Größe 146-152 machen? Für ein sehr schlankes Mädchen - wenn ich ein XS daraus machen wollte, um wieviel müsste ich da wohl die Maschenanzahl reduzieren? Ich bin gerade auf der Suche nach einer schlichten Anleitung für einen Kapuzenpulli und die finde ich sehr ansprechend! Vielen Dank für die Antwort! Anne

user icon DROPS Design 08.03.2018 kl. 15:27:

Liebe Anne, Leider können wir keine individuellen Umrechnungen vornehmen, wenden Sie sich mit diesem Wunsch bitte an den Laden, in dem Sie die Wolle kaufen. Vielen Dank für Ihr Verständnis.

country flag Sabrina 17.02.2018 - 20:19:

Kan dit patroon ook met gewone naalden? Dus geen rondbrei. Zoja, hoe moet het patroon aangepast worden?

user icon DROPS Design 18.02.2018 kl. 12:01:

Hoi Sabrina, Ja dat kan hoor. Daar is dit patroon wel geschikt voor. Via deze link vind je meer informatie over hoe je een patroon aanpast om met rechte naalden te breien. Veel breiplezier!

country flag Jennifer 29.04.2017 - 23:41:

Ich bin blutige Anfängerin im Pulloverstricken und verstehe die Blende leider überhaupt nicht. Mit den Abnahmen an den Seiten bin ich fertig. Wieso muss nun nach 36 cm der Faden abgeschnitten werden? Verstehe ich es richtig, dass ich dann die ersten 23 M ignoriere und bei der 24. M anfange, die Blende mit einem neuen Faden zu stricken? Was passiert mit den ersten 23 M? Wo lasse ich die?

user icon DROPS Design 02.05.2017 kl. 10:00:

Liebe Jennifer, von der Anschlagskante begannen Sie an einer der Seite (= 1. Markierer). Nach 36 cm stricken Sie hin- und zurück von der Mitte am Vorderteil, dh die erste Reihe wird nach dem ersten 23 M anfangen, diese 23 M stricken Sie dann am Ende dieser Reihe + 14 neue M hinter den ersten 14 M auffassen (siehe Video hier). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Mille 04.10.2016 - 19:38:

Så faldt 10-øren endeligt :D Tusind tak for hjælpen!

country flag Mille 03.10.2016 - 19:47:

Hej. Beklager meget, men Jeg forstår det desværre stadig ikke. Skal jeg strikke: 1: 14 ret, resten ret, 2: 14 ret, resten vrang, 3: 14 ret, resten ret, 4: 14 ret, resten vrang, 5: 14 vrang, resten ret, 6: 14 vrang, resten vrang Eller: 1: 14 ret, 82 ret, 14 ret, 2: 14 ret, 82 vrang, 14 ret, 3&4: gentag, 5: 14 vrang, 82 ret, 14 vrang, 6: 14 vrang, 82 vrang, 14 vrang Har prøvet begge og pillet hele skidtet op igen. Ingen af dem giver mønstret, så jeg har stadig ikke fanget den 😕

user icon DROPS Design 04.10.2016 kl. 14:51:

Hej Mille. Saadan ville jeg strikke: Du strikker 14 m forkant (ret), strik resten af pinden glat. Slaa 14 nye masker op bag forkanten, strik dem ret, glat, og 14 m forkant r. Vend, 14 m forkant r, glat, 14 m forkant bag r. Vend, 14 m forkant bag r, glat, 14 m forkant r. Vend, 14 m forkant vr, glat, 14 m forkant bag vr. Vend, 14 m forkant bag vr, glat, 14 m forkant vr. Vend, start forfra med 4 p r, 2 p vr over forkantmaskerne.

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