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Celtic Charm by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in ”Alaska” with cables, raglan sleeves and hood. Size S - XXXL.

Keywords: bottom up, cable, hood, jacket, long sleeves, raglan

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DROPS 109-3
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-90-100-110-120-130 cm [33 7/8’’-35½’’-39 3/8’’-43 3/8’’-47¼’’-51’’]
Full length: 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm [23¼’’-24’’-24¾’’-25½’’-26 3/8’’-27 1/8’’]

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
color no 51, olive mix: 800-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g

DROPS double pointed needles and circular needle (80 cm [32’’]) size 5.5 mm [US 9] - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

DROPS double pointed needles and circular needle (80 cm [32’’]) size 5 mm [US 8] - or size needed to get 16 sts x 30 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

DROPS Buffalo horn button, dark no 536: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 2.15 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.40$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Garter st back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Garter st in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.

Pattern: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

Knitting tip: If your knitting gauge is too tight, the raglan will be too short and the armhole to small. You may compensate for this by working 1 extra row without dec at regular intervals between dec.

Decreasing tip, applies to raglan: Make all dec from the RS as follows: Beg 2 sts before Marking Thread (MT), K2 tog, MT, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

Buttonholes: Bind off for buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = bind off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row. Bind off for buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 16, 23, 30, 37, 44 and 52 cm [6¼”, 9”, 11¾”, 14½”, 17¼” and 20½”].
Size M: 16, 23, 30, 38, 46 and 54 cm [6¼”, 9”, 11¾”, 15”, 18” and 21¼”]
Size L: 16, 24, 32, 40, 48 and 56 cm [6¼”, 9½”, 12½”, 15 ¾”, 19” and 22”].
Size XL: 16, 23, 30, 37, 44, 51 and 58 cm [6¼”, 9”, 11¾”, 14½”, 17¼”, 20” and 22¾”].
Size XXL: 16, 23, 30, 37, 44, 52 and 59 cm [6¼”, 9”, 11¾”, 14½”, 17¼”, 20½” and 23¼”].
Size XXXL: 16, 23, 30, 37, 45, 53 and 61 cm [6¼”, 9”, 11¾”, 14½”, 17¾”, 21” and 24”].
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BODY PIECE
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 220-228-244-260-276-292 sts (includes 8 front band sts each side) on circular needle size 5 mm [US 8] with Alaska. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 8 garter sts (front band), rib, K4/P4, on the next 200-208-224-240-256-272 sts, finish with K4 and 8 garter sts (front band). When piece measures 4 cm [1½’’] change to circular needle size 5.5 mm [US 9] and continue as follows from RS: 8 garter sts, 6-6-6-6-14-14 sts in reverse stockinette st, M.1 (= 24 sts), 40-40-48-56-56-64 sts in reverse stockinette st, M.1, 16-24-24-24-24-24 sts in reverse stockinette st, M.1, 40-40-48-56-56-64 sts in reverse stockinette st, M.1, 6-6-6-6-14-14 sts in reverse stockinette st, and finish with 8 garter sts. Note: 4 K sts in M.1 should sit over K4 from rib. Insert 2 Marking Threads (MT) in piece, 59-61-65-69-73-77 sts in from each side (back piece = 102-106-114-122-130-138 sts). Continue in pattern. Remember the knitting gauge! When piece measures 8 cm [3 1/8’’] dec 1 st on each side of both MT (= 4 dec per row) on every 2 cm [3/4’’] a total of 11 times = 176-184-200-216-232-248 sts. Remember to bind off for buttonholes – see above. After 4 vertical repeats of M.1 (piece measures approx 36 cm [14 ¼”]), work 1 vertical repeat of M.2 over M.1, continue in reverse stockinette st on remaining sts = 152-160-176-192-208-224 sts. On next row change to needle size 5 mm [US 8] and now complete piece in garter st – see above. When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm [16½’’-17’’-17¼’’-17¾’’-18’’-18½’’] bind off 8 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 4 sts on each side of both MT) = 136-144-160-176-192-208 sts. Put piece aside.

SLEEVE
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-40-40-48-48-48 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm [US 8] with Alaska. Work 4 cm [1½’’] rib, P4/K4. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm [US 9] and work next round as follows: 10-10-10-18-18-18 sts in reverse stockinette st, M.1 (= 24 sts) and finish with 6-6-6-6-6-6 sts in reverse stockinette st. Note: 4 K sts in M.1 should sit over K4 from rib. On next round inc 2-4-6-0-2-4 sts evenly = 42-44-46-48-50-52 sts, do not inc on M.1. Insert 1 MT in piece 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts after M.1 = mid under sleeve. Continue in M.1 and reverse stockinette st. When piece measures 8 cm [3 1/8’’] inc 1 st on each side of MT on every 9.5-7.5-7.5-6-5-5 cm [3¾”-2 7/8”-2 7/8”-2 3/8”-2”-2”] a total of 5-6-6-7-8-8 times. After 5 vertical repeats of M.1 (piece measures approx 44 cm [17 1/4’’]), work 1 vertical repeat of M.2 over M.1, continue in reverse stockinette st on remaining sts. Change to needle size 5 mm [US 8] and complete piece in garter st. After all dec and inc are complete there are 46-50-52-56-60-62 sts on round. When piece measures 50-50-49-49-48-48 cm [19¾’’-19¾’’-19¼’’-19¼’’-19’’-19’’] – less on the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders - bind off 4 sts on each side of MT for armhole = 38-42-44-48-52-54 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE
See Knitting tip! Slip sleeves in on the same circular needle size 5 mm [US 8] as body piece where bind off for armholes = 212-228-248-272-296-316 sts. Insert 1 MT in all transitions between body piece and sleeves = 4 MT. Work yoke in garter st, back and forth on needle. Work 2-1-0-1-0-1 rows and now dec for raglan – see Decreasing tip!
Dec on every 4th row: 13-13-14-13-13-13 times and then on every other row: 0-2-2-5-7-8 times. At the same time when piece measures 53-55-57-59-60-62 cm [21”-21 5/8”-22½”-23¼”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”’’] slip 10 sts each side on separate stitch holders towards mid front. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row: 2 sts 3-3-6-8-9-9 times and 1 st 5-5-2-0-0-0 times. After all dec are complete there are 66-66-72-76-80-86 sts on row. K 1 row dec 8-8-12-16-16-22 sts evenly = 58-58-60-60-64-64 sts.

HOOD
Pick up 25-25-28-28-30-30 sts on each front piece (incl sts from stitch holders) = 108-108-116-116-124-124 sts. Change to needle size 5.5 mm [US 9] and work 4 rows garter st, at the same time dec 18 sts evenly on first row = 90-90-98-98-106-106 sts. Insert 1 MT mid back (after 45-45-49-49-53-53 sts). Continue in reverse stockinette st with 8 garter sts each side. At the same time inc 1 st on each side on MT on every 8th row a total of 4 times = 98-98-106-106-114-114 sts. Bind off when hood measures 38-38-39-39-40-40 cm [15”-15”-15¼”-15¼”-15¾”-15¾”].

ASSEMBLY
Sew openings under arms. Sew on buttons. Fold hood double and sew tog at top from the RS.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 30.06.2008
New chart M.1 row no 11

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K2, P1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, P2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 109-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (79)

country flag Alice Logan Cooper wrote:

Is there written instruction for the cables in this pattern? Meaning each row written out (so one doesn't have to follow the chart (which I have trouble with)? Sorry but it's not explained well enough in this pattern for me to follow. I've done cable many times but with each row written.Thank you for understanding.

12.04.2022 - 03:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Alice, there is nothing but a chart available. It seems like difficult, but with explanation above you will be able to do it. Just give it a try. If you have any questions, let us know. Happy knitting!

12.04.2022 kl. 08:56

country flag Béa wrote:

Bonjour, Je m'interroge pour la couture de la capuche. Il est indiqué coudre sur l'endroit, mais est-ce qu'on parle de l'endroit de l'ouvrage, qui est donc le côté point envers puisqu'on est sur un jersey envers, ou bien sur le côté endroit du jersey envers ? C'est béta, mais je ne sais pas quoi faire...

13.02.2022 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Béa, vous assemblez effectivement bien la capuche sur l'endroit, mais non pas en jersey endroit comme dans la vidéo (standard), mais en jersey envers, autrement dit, comme le montre cette vidéo ci. Bonnes finitions!

14.02.2022 kl. 10:27

country flag Gera Van Ommen wrote:

De minderingen aan de zijkant: worden die recht of averechts gebreid? Bij recht breien ontstaat een rij van twee rechten tot een bepaalde hoogte. Of moet ik op de goede kant (averechtse steken) averechts minderen ?

16.06.2021 - 18:25

country flag Gera Van Ommen wrote:

Tellen de opzet-steken als 1e naald? In dit patroon betekent dat een geribbelde onderkant, Klopt dat?

17.05.2021 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gera,

Nee, de eerste naald na het opzetten is de eerste naald. Na het opzetten brei je de eerste naald averecht aan de verkeerde kant. Dan begin je aan de goede kant met het boordpatroon.

20.05.2021 kl. 16:58

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, lorsque nous sommes rendu à réduire 13 fois tous les 4 rangs puis 7 fois tous les 2 rangs, est-ce qu'on réduit n'importe où sur le tricot? Et est-ce qu'on alterne les 13 réductions avec les 7? Besoin d'être éclairée svp merci

29.12.2020 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, vous devez diminuer comme indiqué sous Diminutions pour le raglan autrement dit 1 m de chaque côté de chaque marqueur et donc 8 mailles au total, d'abord 13 fois tous les 4 rangs puis 7 fois tous les 2 rangs. Bon tricot!

04.01.2021 kl. 12:08

country flag Trisha Lentz wrote:

My second question in my last response wasn't answered. Where exactly is mid front? This is needed when looking at the yoke. The yoke pattern says "slip 10 stitches each side on separate stitch holders towards mid front." Again, I appreciate your response.

21.10.2020 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Trisha, sorry for leaving out the second half of the answer. "Mid front" refers to the stitches that will at the two front edges, that is the first and the last stitches of the row. The easiest way to do this is that you knit the first 10 stitches, put them on a holder, knit the rest of the row, turn, knit the first 10 stitches, and knit the rest of the row. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

21.10.2020 kl. 14:16

country flag Trisha Lentz wrote:

Hello, I have several questions after reading the pattern. It states after repeating m.1 4 times, knit m.2 over m.1. What does this mean? Also, when doing the yoke, it states to slip 10 stitches onto separate stitch holders towards mid front. Where exactly is mid front? Thank you for your time, and I look forward to your response.

20.10.2020 - 22:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Trisha, "m.1 4 times, knit m.2 over m.1" means that first you knit the M.1 pattern above each outher 4 times, then on these stitches you will have to continue with pattern M.2. Happy Knitting!

21.10.2020 kl. 04:05

country flag Saije wrote:

"continue as follows from RS: 8 garter sts, 6-6-6-6-14-14 sts in reverse stockinette st, M.1 (= 24 sts)." I am stitching the large size. Says I should have 24 stitches and I only have 15. What am I doing wrong? This is on the body of the jacket, and is important to know for the rest of the pattern. Please don't tell me to look at the diagram. After decades of knitting, I still can't read them. I also didn't see a video regarding this either.

24.09.2020 - 03:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Saije, in size L you have 244 sts and work them as follows: 8 sts in garter st, 6 sts in reversed stocking st, the next 24 sts as shown in M.1, 48 sts in reversed stocking st, the next 24 sts as in M.1, 24 sts reversed stocking st, the next 24 sts as in M.1, 48 sts in reversed stocking st, the next 24 sts as in M1, 6 sts in reversed stocking st, 8 sts in garter st = 8+6+24+48+24+24+24+48+24+6+8= 244 sts. We only have diagrams, not written pattern for the diagrams but you will find how to read knitting diagrams here. Happy knitting!

24.09.2020 kl. 09:49

country flag Anja wrote:

Hallo, complimenten voor uw gratis patronen, ik heb al verschillende projecten gemaakt. Wat ik echter niet begrijp is als u zegt, brei de mouw in het rond op de sokkenbreinaald. Ik zie in uw assortiment niet een kleine rondbreinaald waar je sokken op kunt breien, zeker niet in maat 5 of 6 mm. Dus wat bedoelt u dan eigenlijk? Ik heb de set van rondbreinaalden met verwisselbare naalden en kabeltjes maar deze zijn ook nog te lang voor een mouw.

22.02.2020 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anja,

Je kunt naalden zonder knop gebruiken of een rondbreinaald. Als de rondbreinaald te lang is kun je volgens de magic loop techniek in deze video breien.

23.02.2020 kl. 13:52

country flag Laperriere wrote:

J aimerais savoir comment fait on pour savoir quel grandeur faire notre tricot( small, médium, large). J aimerais comprendre. Merci.

17.09.2019 - 01:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Laperriere, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma - plus d'infos sur les schémas ici. Bon tricot!

17.09.2019 kl. 10:07

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