DROPS 39-3 / Suggest a name
Size: S/M – M/L

Materials: DROPS Alaska-Tweed, from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 1, light beige
100-150 g color no 3, brown
150-200 g color no 4, plum
400-450 g color no 2, light brown

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 3.5 and 5 mm/US 4 and 8

DROPS buttons, 6-7 pcs.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on needle size 5 mm / US 8 in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm)

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: 1 square = 26-27 sts x 16-17 cm. Work squares as described in diagram. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side.

Explanation to pattern diagram:

M.2 M.4 M.1 M.4
plum brown light brown brown

M.1 M.3 M.2 M.1
light brown light beige plum light brown

M.4 M.1 M.3 M.4
brown light brown light beige brown

M.3 M.2 M.1 M.2
light beige plum light brown plum

Back and front piece:
Knitted back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 176-180 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light brown and work 5 cm / 2" Rib. Change to needle size 5 mm / US 8, inc 32-36 sts evenly on first row = 208-216 sts, and work squares as described in diagram (beg by arrow). Remember the knitting gauge.
When piece measures 50-52 cm work next row as follows: 50-52 sts = front piece, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 100-104 sts = back piece, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 50-52 sts = front piece, and now complete each piece separately.

Front piece: = 50-52 sts. Dec 1 st to shape the armhole on next row = 49-51 sts. When piece measures 64-68 cm dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 14 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st twice. Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 69-73 cm.

Back piece: = 100-104 sts. Dec to shape the armhole as described for front piece = 98-102 sts. When piece measures 67-71 cm bind off the middle 32-32 sts for neck and dec 2 sts on neckline on next row. Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 69-73 cm.

Cast on 36-40 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light brown and work 5 cm / 2" Rib. Change to needle size 5 mm / US 8, inc 10-8 sts evenly on first round = 46-48 sts and continue in M.4. At the same time after Rib inc 2 sts mid under arm 25-24 times on every 3rd and 4th round alternately for size S/M and on every 4th round for size M/L = 96-96 sts. When piece measures 50-51 cm bind off 6 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. Dec each side to shape the sleeve cap on every other row: 6 sts 4 times. Bind off, sleeve measures approx 55-56 cm.

Join shoulders. Pick up approx 90-100 sts along left front piece on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light brown and work 3 cm / 1⅛" Rib, bind off. Repeat along right front piece, but after 1 cm / ⅜" make 6-7 buttonholes evenly distributed on row. 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on next row. Pick up approx 90-94 sts round the neck on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light brown and work 2 cm / ¾" Rib, change to brown, work 1 row and bind off. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Knit
symbols = Purl
symbols = plum
symbols = brown
symbols = light brown
symbols = beige
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Françoise wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse rapide. Il me semble qu'une correction devrait être apportée au patron pour spécifier qu'on fait les deux premiers motifs, qu'on reprend le schéma et qu'on termine ensuite. Comme il est écrit, le patron laisse entendre qu'il n'y a que quatre motifs... ce qui n'est pas le cas évidemment.

22.04.2024 - 16:02

country flag Françoise wrote:

Est ce que le motif des carreaux est repris dans le dos ou le dos est uni ?

21.04.2024 - 16:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, on a les motifs dans le dos également: vous aurez 2 motifs pour chaque devant: la flèche dans le diagramme montre le début du devant gauche, reprenez ensuite le schéma et tricotez les 4 carrés pour le dos et terminez par les 2 premiers à droite (en terminant avant la flèche pour le devant gauche - vu sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!

22.04.2024 - 08:54

country flag Hélène Gervais wrote:

J’ai rabattu les 32 mailles pour l’encolure du dos et fini mon rang. Je dois tricoter encore 3 cm, mais comment faire pour tricoter l’autre rang, vu les mailles rabattues? Dois-je le faire un côté à la fois?

12.02.2024 - 23:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gervais, lorsque vous avez rabattu les 32 mailles centrales, vous continuez chaque épaule séparément. Terminez d'abord l'épaule gauche: tricotez le rang suivant sur l'envers, au début du rang suivant (à partir de l'encolure), rabattez 2 mailles, et continuez les mailles restantes comme avant jusqu'à la hauteur indiquée. Lorsque vous avez rabattu les mailles de l'épaule gauche, coupez le fil, et tricotez les mailles de l'épaule droite de la même façon. Bon tricot!

13.02.2024 - 08:35

country flag Gerd Handegard wrote:

Hvordan strikke fortløpnde ruter med gjentatte skifter av farge og slik at rutene henger sammen. Må tråden kuttes og festes ved hvert fargeskifte? Ta med avsluttet farge et stykke inn på (tvinnes med på vranga) ny farge men hvordan for å unngå at det synes på retten?? Har prøvd det siste med 1 nøste pr rute(totalt 8 å holde orden på), blir ikke bra!!

26.10.2022 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gerd, du snor trådene om hinanden i overgangene. Du kan naturligvis vælge at klippe tråden og sy ruderne sammen med den, hvis du synes det bliver pænere!

27.10.2022 - 10:12

country flag Elke Franck wrote:

Moin moin, ich bräuchte für dieses Model bitte eine Größen und Mengen Angabe für XL -XXL. Wäre das vielleicht möglich, das Sie sie mir zukommen lassen??? MfG Elke Franck

04.12.2018 - 19:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Franck, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpassen. Gerne können Sie sich von einem ähnlichen Modell in der gewüsnchten Größe inspiereren und mit der Maßskizze helfen. Nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.12.2018 - 08:09

country flag CHEMAI Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse. Ouf......ça y est j' ai compris. Par contre, est ce que vous auriez une astuce pour que les 8 fils ne s'emmêlent pas lors du travail???

02.03.2018 - 10:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Chemai, pensez à bien croiser les pelotes (pas seulement les fils) à chaque changement de couleur et à chaque changement de sens (endroit et envers) pour que les pelotes soient toujours alignées dans l'ordre dans lequel vous les utilisées. Votre magasin a probablement d'autres astuces, n'hésitez pas à lui demander, par mail, téléphone ou via les réseaux sociaux. Bon tricot!

02.03.2018 - 11:53

country flag CHEMAI Catherine wrote:

Les explications sont trop succinctes je n arrive pas à trouver comment débuter au niveau des carrés de points fantaisies, je ne suis pas novice mais je ne sais pas utiliser les aiguilles circulaires. Un peu d aide me serait utile!

14.01.2018 - 11:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Chemai, les carrés se tricotent dans l'ordre indiqué sous "Point fantaisie" (la description se lit de haut en bas et de gauche à droite), tricotez les carrés en commençant par la flèche (start bolen) et tricotez M.2, M.3, (M.2, M.1, M.2, M.3) et répétez de (à) jusqu'à la fin du rang. Chaque carré se tricote sur 26-27 m avec la couleur indiquée en suivant le diagramme correspondant (M.1 à M.4). Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter sur aiguille circulaire. Bon tricot!

15.01.2018 - 09:18

country flag Linda Hillebrand wrote:

Het telpatroon verschijnt niet, kunnen jullie helpen? Bedankt! Linda

07.09.2016 - 08:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Linda. Probeer nu (druk eventueel F5 om te vernieuwen)

07.09.2016 - 13:21

country flag Lisbeth Hansen wrote:

Jeg sendte et spørgsmål til jer den 6 november 2015, jeg har ikke fået noget svar fra jer :-(

23.11.2015 - 08:08

country flag Lisbeth Hansen wrote:

Jeg strikker str. medium/large, men jeg kan ikke rigtig få diagrammer og maskeantallet der skal være i hver ruder til at passe sammen, dvs. jeg skal have 8 ruder hele vejen rundt med 27m, hvordan får i diagrammernes henholdsvis 4m, 8m, og 12m til at gå op i 27m som der er rudens maskeantal? for jeg går ud fra at jeg skal gentage diagrammets masker indtil de opnåede 27m i hver ruder, og hverken 4m, 8m eller 12m går op i 27m der bliver 3 resterende masker i hver ruder hvad gør jeg med dem?

06.11.2015 - 12:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, mønsteret behøver ikke gå op i de forskellige ruder, du strikker ifølge diagrammet til du ikke har flere masker i ruden. God fornøjelse!

26.11.2015 - 09:57