Snow Baby by DROPS Design

DROPS Jacket, trousers, bonnet, socks, blanket, ball and rattle in Alpaca

DROPS Baby 13-18
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
100-100-150 (150-200) g colour no 0100, off-white
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 0100, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white
All four pieces:
250-250-300 (350-400) g colour no 0100, off-white

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needle size 2.5mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5mm
DROPS mother of pearl button, no 523, 5 pcs
Accessory: Silk ribbon, approx 80 cm for bonnet and 2 x 50 cm for the socks


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.65 € /50g
Saules siulas
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.85 € /50g
Saules siulas
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.25€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 34 rows on needle size 2.5mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Garter sts, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows
Garter sts, on circular needle: knit 1 round, purl 1 round

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.3. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

Button hole: Make button holes on right front band from the right side as follows: cast off 3rd and 4th st from the edge and cast on 2 new sts on next row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 4, 10, 16, 22 and 26 cm
Size 6/9 months: 5, 11, 17, 23 and 28 cm
Size 12/18 months: 6, 13, 20, 27 and 32 cm
Size 2 years: 9, 16, 23, 30 and 36 cm
Size 3/4 years: 9, 17, 25, 33 and 39 cm

Decreasing tips 1(applies to collar on jacket): All decreases are done at the beg of every row.
Dec 1 st as follows at beginning of row: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso

Increasing tips (applies to collar on jacket):
Inc 1 st by picking up the thread between 2 sts from previous row and knit this into back of st.

Front and back piece: Knit the jacket back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Using both ends of the circular needle size 2.5mm (to make sure the edge becomes elastic) cast on 163-180-197 (214-231) sts (incl 5 edge sts each side towards mid front) with Alpaca. Remove 1 needle and knit 2 rows garter sts. Now knit 3 repeats of M.1 with 5 edge sts each side in garter sts. After M.1 knit 2 rows stocking sts (continue in garter sts over the 5 edge sts until finished measurements), at the same time adjusting number of sts evenly on 1st row to 148-166-184 (196-214) (do not dec over the 5 edge sts each side). Insert a marking thread 39-44-49 (51-56) sts in from each side = 70-78-86 (94-102) sts between marking threads on back piece. Now knit M.2 with 5 edge sts each side. At the same time, when piece measures 5 cm dec 1 st each side of both marking threads on every 3-3-4 (4-5) cm a total of 4 times = 132-150-168 (180-198) sts – knit sts not fitting into pattern in stocking sts. Remember buttonholes on right front edge – see explanation above. When piece measures approx 16-17-20 (23-25) cm – adjust after 2 or 3 rows in stocking sts after a row with pattern in diagram – cast off 10 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 5 sts each side of marking threads) = 52-60-68 (76-84) sts on back piece and 30-35-40 (42-47) sts on each front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Knit round on double pointed needles size 2.5mm. Cast on 36-36-42 (42-42) sts with Alpaca. Knit 8 rounds garter sts and continue in M.2. At the same time, when sleeve measures 4 cm inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 8-10-10 (13-15) times on every 4-4-5 (5-5) round = 52-56-62 (68-72) sts – incorporate the new sts in pattern as you go along. When sleeve measures 15-16-19 (23-27) cm - adjust as for back and front pieces – cast off 10 sts mid under arm = 42-46-52 (58-62) sts. Put the piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

Yoke: Put sleeves in on the same needle as back and front pieces where you cast off for armholes = 196-222-252 (276-302) sts. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side, at the same time adjusting number of sts evenly on row to 186-218-250 (266-298) (do not dec over the 5 edge sts each side). Now knit and dec following M.3 (continue over the 5 edge sts as before) – finish pattern in diagram at the arrow for appropriate size. After M.3 there are 109-114-115 (122-136) sts left. Knit 1 row from the right side, at the same time adjusting number of sts to 72-76-82 (86-92).

Collar: Cast off the outermost 3 sts each side = 66-70-76 (80-86) sts. Continue in garter sts, at the same time inc 1 st each side – see Increasing tips – on the 3rd row. Inc between the first 2 and the last 2 sts on every other row a total of 3 times. At the same time, when collar measures 2 cm, insert 3 marking threads in piece, 1 by each shoulder and 1 mid back. Now inc 1 st on each side of all marking threads – see Increasing tips. Repeat the inc after 4 rows = 84-88-94 (98-104) sts. When collar measures 5 cm dec each side on every row – see Decreasing tips: 1 st 3 times = 78-82-88 (92-98) sts. Loosely cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew the openings under the arms. Sew on buttons.

Crochet border:
Using crochet hook size 2.5 crochet round the collar as follows: 1 dc in 1st st, *3 ch, 1 tr in the 1st ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-*
Crochet round sleeve edges as follows: 1 dc in 1st st, *5 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-*.

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*

Pattern: see diagrams M.2 and M.4.

Decreasing tips (applies to inner side of leg:
Dec as follows 1 st after the marking thread: K2 tog
Decrease as follows 1 st before marking thread: K2 tog into back of st.

Start at the top and knit downwards.
Cast on 120-128-136 (140-144) sts with circular needle size 2.5mm. Knit 4 cm Rib. Continue in stocking sts, at the same time inc evenly on round to 156-168-180 (192-204) sts. Insert a marking thread at the beginning of round = mid back and after 78-84-90 (96-102) sts = mid front.
Knit M.2, at the same time, knitting elevation at the back as follows: knit 12 sts, turn the piece (to avoid a hole slip the first st as if to knit and tighten thread when knitting back), knit 24 sts, turn the piece. Continue like this by knitting 12 sts more before each turn another 8-10-10 (12-12) times. Now knit round over all sts. When piece measures 12-15-16 (17-18) cm (measured from mid front) inc 1 st on each side of the middle 2 sts mid front on every other row a total of 10 times (inc by picking up st from previous row and knit this) = 176-188-200 (212-224) sts. After the last inc the piece measures approx 18-21-22 (23-24) cm mid front. Knit next round as follows from mid back: Cast off 3 sts, knit 82-88-94 (100-106) sts, cast off 6 sts, 82-88-94 (100-106) sts, cast off 3 sts. Now finish each leg separately.

Legs: Put sts from one leg on a thread and sts from the other leg on double pointed needles size 2.5mm = 82-88-94 (100-106) sts. Knit round (continue pattern as before) and insert a marking thread at beginning of round = inner side of leg. When leg measures 2 cm dec 1 st on both sides of marking thread – see Decreasing tips – on every 2-2-2.5 (2.5-3) cm a total of 4-5-6 (7-8) times = 74-78-82 (86-90) sts. When leg measures 10-13-16 (21-26) cm knit M.4 – start at the bottom of diagram. After M.4 knit 1 round, at the same time dec evenly to 60-64-68 (72-76) sts. Knit 10 cm Rib and cast off loosely.
Knit the other leg in the same way.

Assembly: Sew opening between legs. Fold the rib at bottom of legs.

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 months –12/18 months
To fit head circumference: 40/42 – 42/44 – 44/46 cm

Garter sts: knit all rows

Pattern: see diagrams M.2 and M.3.

Knit back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 82-88-100 sts on needle size 2.5mm. Knit garter sts, at the same time making a hole each side on every 6th row by casting off the 3rd st from edge and making a yo over the cast off st.
Read all of the following section before knitting it!
When piece measures 6 cm knit M.2 with 5 sts in garter sts each side (continue holes on every 6th row as before) until piece measures 14-15-16 cm. Adjust after 2 rows stocking sts after 1 pattern row. At the same time, on the last row from the wrong side, cast off the 5 outermost sts each side and adjust number of sts to 70-80-90.
Insert 5 marking threads in piece as follows: 1st after 1 st, and thereafter 14-16-18 sts between each (= 13-15-17 sts after the last marking thread). Knit garter sts, at the same time dec 1 st after each marking thread on every other row a total of 12-14-16 times = 10 sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and attach.

Assembly: Sew seam mid back. Crochet a border along the cast-on row with Alpaca and crochet hook size 2.5 as follows: 1 dc in 1st st, *5 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-*. Crochet along garter sts at back of bonnet in the same way. Fold the front edge double against the right side and attach with a couple of neat sts to lower edge. Pull silk ribbon through the row of holes.

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 cm

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

Garter sts: Knit all rows.

The sock is knitted back and forth from mid back. Cast on 68-68-68 using 2 needles size 2.5mm. Remove 1 needle knit 2 rows garter sts. Now knit 5-6-7 repeats of M.1 – piece measures approx 5-6-7 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side, at the same time adjusting number of sts to 34-38-42. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and knit next row as follows from the right side: K1, *K2 tog, yo*, repeat from *-* and finish with K1. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Now put the outermost 12-13-15 sts each side on a thread. = 10-12-12 sts left. Knit 4-4.5-5 cm garter sts over these sts. Put sts from thread back on needle and pick up 10-11-13 sts on each side of middle piece = 54-60-68 sts.
Knit 3-4-5 cm garter sts over all sts, at the same time after 1.5-2-2.5 dec on every other row until finished measurements as follows:
Dec 1 st at the beginning and at the end of row and K2 tog on each side of the 2 middle sts.
Cast off and sew seam under foot and mid back. Pull a silk ribbon or similar through holes.

BALL AND RATTLE: see pattern no 13-32


symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = yo
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
symbols = yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, yo

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 13-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (134)

country flag Eva wrote:

Hej! Jag har stickat hättan men förstår inte riktigt monteringsanvisningen. Finns det fler bilder? Hur ska den se ut bakifrån?

22.08.2023 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva. Har kun det ene bildet bakfra som du ser øverst på oppskriften (bilde nr. 3), men der ser du fint hvordan den ser ut på baksiden. Når du har strikket ferdig luen, syr du rillekantene sammen (de 5 maskene i hver side). Så bretter du rillekanten dobbelt mot retten og syr fast nederst i hver side. Tre 1 silkebånd i nederkant av kysen. mvh DROPS Design

28.08.2023 kl. 11:30

country flag Leah G wrote:

M1 graph says the pattern is over 17 stitches but I don't understand how. 3 knit togethers, 6 yo and 3 knit togethers adds up to 18, not 17.

14.04.2023 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leah, you work: k2tog 3 times (over 6 stitches) and 6 yarn overs, with 5 knit stitches between the yarn overs and k2tog 3 times. Since you have decreased 6 stitches and increased 6 stitches, the number of stitches remains the same (remember that yarn overs are worked between stitches and not in them). Happy knitting!

16.04.2023 kl. 19:45

country flag Angela wrote:

I cannot for various reasons understand graphs not matter how much I’d love to… are they available as written patterns? I miss out on all of your wonderful patterns with diagrams and it’s soul destroying. I can’t be the only one can I who struggles? Thank you

16.10.2022 - 03:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Angela, these patterns are only available in the format that you can see online. If you have trouble understanding the graphs, you can try reading the following lesson in case they can help you: Happy knitting!

16.10.2022 kl. 23:09

country flag Terezia Cifrova wrote:

Nechápem.kabatik snou baby.zacinam na napr.168 ociek.potom nikde neuberam a mám pribrať na 148 očká kde sa stratili tie zvyšné.dakujem

16.04.2022 - 14:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, v návodu byla chyba. Nahodíte např. na 163 ok a později upravíte počet ok na 148, tj. ujmete rovnoměrně 15 ok. Ať se daří!

09.05.2022 kl. 14:35

country flag Gail wrote:

Socks: After putting stitches on holder, do I cut yarn to knit the 10 remaining? \r\nOnce I knit the 4 cm on the 10 stitches, do I cut the yarn to pick up the stitches on the side?

05.04.2022 - 23:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gail, yes, you can cut the yarn and then join it to work the middle 10 stitches. After you have worked 4 cm in garter stitch over these 10 stitches, cut the yarn aain. Then continue working from first stitch on the right side of the middle part, joining the yarn and working the 12 sts on a thread, picking up sts, etc. Happy knitting!

06.04.2022 kl. 07:59

country flag Ilse wrote:

Hallo, liebe Fachleute, ich habe eine Frage zum Muster 3. In Reihe 16 sollen zwei Umschläge direkt nacheinander erfolgen oder ist eine rechte Masche dazwischen zu stricken?

26.03.2022 - 13:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ilse, es gibt 1 rechte Masche dazwischen, dh: 2 Maschen rechts zusammen, 1 Umschlage, 1 Masche rechts, 1 Masche rechts abheben , 1 Masche rechts stricken und die abgehobene M darüber ziehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.03.2022 kl. 08:35

country flag Kina wrote:

Stickar koftan :) är de 10 kantmaskorna medräknade i uppläggningen ”163” el skall jag lägga till dessa :)

19.08.2021 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kina. Kantmaskorna är medräknade, så du lägger upp totalt 163 maskor. Mvh DROPS design

20.08.2021 kl. 09:06

country flag Marit Hetlevik wrote:

Skal strikke jakken snow baby, får ikkje mønsteret til og stemme, der det skal strikkes 2 rs kast 2vrs, første omg går fint. Men når eg begynner med 2 omg av mønsteret blir da feil. (Kast 2vrs - 2rs ikkje nåk masker. Mvh Marit

18.10.2020 - 21:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marit, skriv hvilket diagram og hvilken pind, så skal vi forklare :)

22.10.2020 kl. 12:29

country flag Laura wrote:

Hi, I'm making the smallest size and I'm struggling with the M3 chart... On row 16,after I'm done with all the repeats of the pattern (excluding the 5 border stitches on each side) I still have 4 stitches left. I have checked and I have the correct stitch count. Am I reading it incorrectly? As I read it, it goes K2, K2TOG, YO, K1, YO, SL1K1PSSO, K1, K2TOG, YO, K1, SL1K1PSSO, K1. Repeat until the end. What am I doing wrong?

09.10.2020 - 21:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Laura, you are reading properly row 16 - make sure you already decreased 2 stitches (= 14 sts in each M.3). and that you have same number of repeats as before when you worked first row. Adding markers between each repeat can help to check number of sts. Happy knitting!

12.10.2020 kl. 07:14

country flag Deb wrote:

In the Front and back piece: section, 4th paragraph, you say, “ adjust after 2 or 3 rows in stockinette sts after a row with pattern in diagram.” What does “adjust” mean in this context? what are you saying should be adjusted? Thank you.

20.07.2020 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Deb, This is saying that the length measurement is approximate and you should work until you have 2 or 3 rows of stocking stitch before going on to the next stage. Happy knitting!

21.07.2020 kl. 07:30

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