DROPS Baby / 13 / 17

Sunday Stroll by DROPS Design

The DROPS set comprises: Dress, bonnet, socks and duck.

Dress, bonnet and socks:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
Dress:
150-150-200 (200-250) g colour 18, off white
Bonnet + socks:
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no. 18, off white
The whole set:
200-200-250 (250-300) g colour 18, off white
+ a remainder of light blue and green for the flower.

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needle size 3 mm
DROPS crochet hook no. 3
Silk ribbon: approx 10 mm wide: 180 cm

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm and 27 sts x 32 rows in M.1 = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (circular needles): Knit 1 round, Purl 1 round.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all sts.

Pattern: See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagram is seen from the right side.

DRESS:
Dress: The piece is knitted on circular needles from the bottom and up.
Cast on 192-216-240 (264-288) sts loosely on circular needles size 3 mm and knit 2 rounds of garter sts. Continue in M.1. When the piece measures 17-22-26 (31-35) cm – adjust to a whole repeat –bind off to 112-126-140 (154-168) sts as follows: K the 3 K’s tog to 1K. In addition reduce every other P-repeat from 3P to 2P as follows: P2 tog. Insert a marking thread at the beginning of next round and again after 56-63-70 (77-84) sts. Knit 8 round of garter sts. Split the piece at the marking threads and continue each part separately.
Back piece: = 56-63-70 (77-84) sts. Knit in M.2 – sts not fitting into pattern are knitted in stocking sts. At the same time when the piece measures 22-27-31 (36-40) cm bind off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 42-49-56 (63-70) sts. When the piece measures 31-37-42 (48-53) cm bind off the middle 18-19-20 (21-22) sts for the neck. Continue to bind off 1 st at the neck side = 11-14-17(20-23) sts left for shoulder. Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 32-38-43 (49-54) cm.

Right front: = 56-63-70 (77-84) sts. Knit in M.2 at the same time bind off for the slanting front edge as follows: Bind off the first 10 sts. Continue to bind off towards mid front on every other row as follows: 2 sts 8-10-13 (15-18) times and 1 st 12-12-10 (10-8) times. At the same time when the piece measures 22-27-31-(36-40) cm bind off for the armhole as done on the back piece. After all bind off’s for the front edge and the armhole = 11-14-17 (20-23) sts left for the shoulder. Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 32-38-43 (49-54) cm.

Left front: Pick up 56-63-70 (77-84) sts on the backside of the right front piece on needles size 3 mm – pick up from side to side in the top purl row). Continue to knit M.2 at the same time bind off for the slanting edge and the armhole as done for the right front piece but opposite.

Sleeve: Cast on 36-36-36 (42-42) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit 8 rounds of garter sts, continue in M.2. When the piece measures 5 cm inc 2 sts mid under arm on every 6.-5.-4. (6.-6.) round a total of 6-8-11 (10-12) times = 48-52-58 (62-66) sts – knit new sts into M.2 as you go along. When the piece measures 17-18-20 (24-28) bind off 6 sts mid under arm and now knit back and forth on row. Continue to bind off for the sleeve cap 2 sts on every other row until the piece measures 21-22-24 (28-32) cm. Then 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts when the piece measures approx. 22-23-25 (29-33) cm. Put the piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the side seams in the outer most part of the outer st so the seam cannot be seen. Sew in the sleeves.

Crochet edge: Crochet an edge around booth sleeves and the bottom part of the dress on hook size 3 as follows: 1 dc in the first st, *4 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 4 ch and a sl st in the first dc from beginning of round. Crochet around the slanting edge and the neck on hook size 3 as follows: crochet 1 row of dc and the next row as follows: 1 dc in the first st, *4 ch, 1 tr in the first of these ch, skip 1 st, 1 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-*.

Crochet flower: Crochet 3 ch with hook size 3 and light blue and make a loop with a sl st.
1. round: Crochet 5 dc around the loop and finish with a sl st in the dc from beginning of round.
2. round: *4 ch, 1 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the thread.
Crochet 3 ch with hook size 3 and green and make a loop with a sl st.
1. round: Crochet 5 dc around the loop and finish with a sl st in the dc from beginning of round.
2. round: *4 ch, 3 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the thread.
Sew the light blue flower on to the green flower and sew it onto the dress.
_________________________________________

BONNET:
To fit head circumference: approx 40/42 – 42/44 – 44/46 (48/50 – 50/52) cm

Bonnet: The bonnet is knitted back and forth on circular needle. Cast on loosely 77-83-89 (95-101) sts (inclusive of 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 8 rows of garter sts. Knit the next row as follows from the right side: 1 edge st, M.1 over the following 72-78-84 (90-96) sts, P3 and 1 edge st. Continue this way until the piece measures 11-12-13 (14-15) cm. Adjust to 1 repeat and knit 2 rows of stocking sts over all sts. Bind off 26-28-30 (32-34) sts each side = 25-27-29 (31-33) sts left on row (= the middle section on the back of the bonnet). Measure the piece from here for now on! Knit in garter sts and bind off when the middle piece measures 10-11-12(13-14) cm Sew the middle piece to the side pieces. Pick up 78-82-90 (94-102) sts from the right side on circular needle size 3 mm at the bottom edge of the bonnet. K 1 row, and continue as follows: *K2 tog, make a yo* repeat from *-*, finish with K2. Continue to knit 2 rows of garter sts and bind off loosely. Pull silk ribbon, approx 80 cm, through the row of holes.
_________________________________________

SOCKS:
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm

Socks:The sock is knitted back and forth from mid back. Fold a circular needle size 3 mm and cast on with Safran on both needles (this is done to make the edge more stretchy) 47-53-53 (59-59) sts. Pull out one of the needles and knit 4 rows of garter sts.
Knit the next row as follows from the right side: K1, M.1 over the following 42-48-48 (54-54) sts, P3 and K1. Continue this way until the piece measures 5-6-6 (7-8) cm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side at the same time bind off 9-11-7- (9-9) sts evenly distributed on row = 38-42-46 (50-50) sts. Knit the following row as follows from the right side: K1, *K2 tog, make a yo*, repeat from *-*, and finish with K1. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Now put the outermost 13-15-17 (18-18) sts each side on a thread. Knit 3-4-5 (6-7) cm garter sts over the middle 12-12-12 (14-14) sts. Put sts from thread back on needle and pick up 8-10-12 (14-16) sts on each side of middle piece = 54-62-70(78-82) sts. Knit 3.5-4-4.5 (5-5.5) cm garter sts over all sts, at the same time after 2-2-2 (3-3) cm dec on every other row until finished measurements as follows: Dec 1 st at the beginning and at the end of row and K2 tog on each side of the 2 middle sts. Cast off when foot measures 10-11-12 (14-15) cm and sew seam under foot and mid back. Pull a silk ribbon approx. 50 cm through the row of holes.

Diagram

= knit from RS, purl from WS
= purl from RS, knit from WS
= make a yo
= K2 tog
= K3 tog

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 13-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (86)

Samira 06.11.2019 - 17:45:

Bonjour. Pour les chaussettes : comment sont reparties les diminutions? Merci

DROPS Design 07.11.2019 kl. 08:26:

Bonjour Samira, vous trouverez ici comment répartir des diminutions. Bon tricot!

Elena 24.07.2019 - 19:01:

Herzlichen Dank für die Erläuterung! Was mir nicht klar war, ist dass das Teil anfangs rund, und nicht hin und zurück gestrickt wird. Jetzt ergibt alles Sinn : )

Elena 23.07.2019 - 23:40:

Ich bin dabei dieses schöne Modell zu stricken und bin bei dem ersten Ärmel angekommen. Nun meine Frage: Was heißt es genau Maschen "in der Mitte unter dem Ärmel" aufzuschlagen? Kommen die zusätzlichen Maschen in der Mitte des Teils (nach 18M für Größe 76/80)? Aber warum heißt es dann "unter dem Ärmel"? Oder eher an den Seiten? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 24.07.2019 kl. 17:20:

Liebe Elena, die Anleitung wurde beim Ärmel etwas umformuliert, vielleicht ist es nun deutlicher. Sie nehmen 2 Maschen an der unteren Ärmelmitte zu, d.h. an der Unterseite/Rückseite des Ärmels. Sie können den Rundenbeginn als untere Ärmelmitte festlegen und wie folgt an der unteren Ärmelmitte zunehmen: die 1. Masche stricken, 1 Umschlag arbeiten, dann im Muster bis 1 Masche vor Rundenende stricken, 1 Umschlag arbeiten und die letzte Masche der Runde stricken. Die Umschläge stricken Sie in der nächsten Runde verschränkt und arbeiten die neuen Maschen nach und nach ins Muster ein. Gutes Gelingen!

Danielle 02.06.2019 - 03:04:

Nu har jeg ikke strikket ud fra opskrifter så længe og har virkelig problemer med at forstå hva jeg skal gøre efter jeg har strikket de 17 cm mønster på kjolen? Håbede der var en der kunne skære det ud i pap for mig😊 på forhånd tak

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 08:20:

Hei Danielle. Når arbeidet måler 17 cm skal du felle 112 masker. Du har strikket M.1 over alle maskene (3 vrang, 3 rett). Du skal nå strikke alle rettmaskene sammen slik: 3 rett sammen. Samtidig skal du også felle i vrangmaskene på annenhver M.1 slik: 2 vrang sammen, 1 vrang. Dvs omgangen strikkes slik: 3 vrang, 3 rett sammen (= 1. rapport av M.1), 2 vrang sammen, 1 vrang, 3 rett sammen (= 2. rapport av M.1). Gjenta dette ut hele omgangen. Videre strikkes 4 riller (= 8 pinner rettstrikning) og arbeidet deles til forstykke og bakstykke.

Raban Nathalie 28.12.2017 - 09:38:

Bonjour, je suis en train de faire les chaussettes. Je ne sais pas si il faut continuer les diminutions jusqu'à 10 cms de hauteur de pied ou les arrêter à 3,5cms. Merci d'avance pour votre aide

DROPS Design 02.01.2018 kl. 09:44:

Bonjour Madame Raban, on doit tricoter 3,5 cm, la phrase avec les 10 cm a été supprimée, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

Mela 02.12.2017 - 15:51:

He empezado el vestido en lana Baby Merino (en vez de Safran) y en M.1. el resultado no me queda igual, mis agujeros casi no se notan. No se bien debido a qué es, podría ser por cómo estoy tejiendo las lazadas? ¿Cuándo tejo las lazadas (las de la cuarta fila de M.1) tengo que tejerlas por la hebra delantera o por la hebra posterior. Espero su respuesta, gracias por adelantado.

DROPS Design 17.12.2017 kl. 18:40:

Hola Mela, puedes consultar como tejer las lazadas aquí:

How to increase with a yarn over (yo) from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Michaela 24.11.2017 - 22:42:

Hallo, ich verstehe bei M1 nicht, was "li von rechts, re von links" meint. Können Sie das erklären?

DROPS Design 27.11.2017 kl. 08:55:

Liebe Michaela, re von rechts, li von links = 1 M glatt rechts, dh diese Masche stricken Sie immer rechts in die Runde oder Hinreihe re und Rückreihe li. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Therese Johnsson 23.07.2017 - 00:28:

Hej! Jag ska börja med rad 2 på M1. Ska den raden läsas från vänster till höger, alltså att varvet börjar med tre räta maskor (som då hamnar över de tre aviga maskor som blev på första varvet), eller ska samtliga rader läsas från höger till vänster? Tack på förhand

DROPS Design 24.07.2017 kl. 13:50:

Då du stickar runt ska alla rader läsas från höger till vänster, stickar du fram och tillbaka läser du raderna från rätsidan från höger till vänster och raderna från avigsidan från vänster till höger.

Gertrude 31.03.2017 - 22:08:

Bonjour Kathy je voudrais faire le bonnet par contre vous dites de monter 836 m!!!!y a-t-il erreure svp? Merci

DROPS Design 03.04.2017 kl. 08:47:

Bonjour Gertrude, c'était une faute de frappe, on doit monter 83 m dans la 2ème taille. Merci, bon tricot!

Charlotte 06.10.2016 - 17:23:

I am confused about binding off for the neck on the back side. Starting with 42 stitches on the needles after the armhole decreases, it then says to bind off the center 18 stitches. This would leave 24 stitches on the needles, 12 on each side of the bound off stitches. Then it says to bind off 1 stitch at the neck side (what is the neck side?). This would leave 23 stitches total, but the pattern says there should be 11 stitches left.

DROPS Design 07.10.2016 kl. 08:18:

Dear Charlotte, when you bind off 18 sts for neckline, 24 sts remain, ie 12 sts for each shoulder. Finish each shoulder separately and bind off then 1 st on next row from neckline = 11 sts remain for shoulder. Happy knitting!

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