DROPS / 95 / 10

Desert Delight by DROPS Design

DROPS Dress in Safran and Alpaca

Size: XS - S – M – L – XL – XXL
The length will increase by approx 6-10 cm / 2½"-4'' when worm compared to measurements in measurement chart.

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color no. 23, brown
and use
DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300-300 g color no. 3800, heather

DROPS Circular needle and double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 15 sts x 19 rows on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 thread of each quality in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Pattern: see diagrams M.1 to M.4. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

Decreasing tips (applies to the cuts and sides): Dec as follows after 1st and 3rd marking thread + marking thread at side: K2 tog. Dec as follows before 2nd and 4th marking thread + marking thread at side: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso

Increasing tips: Inc 1 st by picking up a st in st from previous row and K it.

Measuring tips: Make all measurements when piece is lying flat.

Worked in the round on circular needles. Read the entire pattern before you begin!
Cast on 180-200-220-240-260-280 sts using both ends of the circular needle (to make sure the edge becomes elastic) with 1 thread of each quality (= double thread). Remove 1 needle and K1 round, P 1 round and K 1 round. Now work M.1 (start at the side).
After 2 repeats of M.1 – piece measures approx 21 cm - insert a marking thread (MT) in the middle of each repeat (see arrow in M.1 = 9-10-11-12-13-14 MT). Continue in stockinette st, at the same time on 2nd and 4th round after M.1 work M.2 over each MT = 144-160-176-192-208-224 sts left. Remove all MT after the last dec. When piece measures 25-25-25-26-26-26 cm insert 6 new MT as follows: K 22-26-28-31-34-37 sts, insert MT before next st (= MT-1), K 28-28-32-34-36-38 sts, insert MT before next st (= MT-2), K 22-26-28-31-34-37 sts, insert MT before next st (= side), K 22-26-28-31-34-37 sts, insert MT (= MT-3), K 28-28-32-34-36-38 sts, insert MT before next st (= MT-4), K remaining 22-26-28-31-34-37 sts and insert a MT (= side).
Now dec 1 st on both sides of the MT at sides (do not dec by the other MT on front and back) – see decreasing tips – on every 5-5-5-6-6-7 round a total of 8-9-9-9-9-9 times.
At the same time when piece measures 31-32-33-35-36-37 cm dec 1 st for cut after MT-1 and MT-3 and before MT-2 and MT-4 – see Decreasing tips – on every 6-6-8-8-8-8 round a total of 4-4-5-5-5-5 times. After all dec are complete there are 96-108-120-136-152-168 sts left. When piece measures 50-51-52-54-56-58 cm inc 1 st after MT-1 and MT-3 and before MT-2 and MT-4 - see Increasing tips above - on every 2-2-2-3-3-3 round row a total of 6-6-6-5-5-5 times = 120-132-144-156-172-188 sts. After last inc remove markers on front and back.
When piece measure 67-69-71-73-75-77 cm / 26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''-29½''-30 3/8'' bind off 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts on both sides of MT) = 52-58-64-68-76-84 sts left for front and back piece. Put the piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 40-42-44-48-50-54 sts using 2 double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 thread of each yarn quality (= double thread). Remove 1 needle and K 1 round on double pointed needles, P 1 round and K 1 round. Work next round as follows: 0-1-2-4-0-2 stockinette sts, M.3 on the next 40-40-40-40-50-50 sts and 0-1-2-4-0-2 stockinette sts. Work 1 repeat of M.3 (piece measures approx 5 cm / 2''). K 1 round, at the same time bind off 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts mid under arm for armhole = 32-34-36-38-40-44 sts left. Put sts on a thread and knit the other sleeve.

Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needle as body where bind off for armholes = 168-184-200-212-232-256 sts. Now dec as follows:
Size XS: Work 5 cm / 2'' stockinette sts, at the same time dec 14 sts evenly on the 3rd and 7th round = 140 sts.
Size S: Work 6 cm / 2 3/8'' stockinette sts, at the same time dec 12 sts evenly on the 3rd and 8th round = 160 sts
Size M: Work 7 cm / 2¾'' stockinette sts, at the same time dec 10 sts evenly on the 4th and 9th round = 180 sts.
Size L: Work 8 cm / 3 1/8'' stockinette sts, at the same time dec 8 sts evenly on the 3rd, 6th, , 9th and 12th round = 180 sts.
Size XL: Work 9 cm / 3½'' stockinette sts, at the same time dec 8 sts evenly on the 3rd , 7th , 10th , and 14th round = 200 sts.
Size XXL: Work 10 cm / 4'' stockinette sts, at the same time dec 9 sts evenly on the 4th , 8th , 12th ,and 16rh round = 220 sts.

All sizes: When yoke measures 5-6-7-8-9-10 cm work M.4. After 1 repeat of M.4 there are 112-128-144-144-160-176 sts on needle. Work 2 rounds stockinette sts, at the same time adjust no of sts to 111-123-144-144-159-171 on the last round. P 1 round, K 2 rounds and work next row as follows: *1 YO, K3 tog*, repeat from *-* = 74-82-96-96-106-114 sts left. K 2 rounds, at the same time adjust no of sts to 74-82-86-90-94-98 on the last row. P 1 round, Knit 1 round and bind off in P sts on next round – dress measures approx 83-86-89-92-95-98 cm when lying flat.

Assembly: Sew the openings under the arms.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= k
= yo
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
= no st, st has been bound off
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 95-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (58)

Charlene Pettit 16.11.2020 - 21:21:

Can this pattern be knitted in a single yarn? I would like to knit it in a cotton if you could suggest one

DROPS Design 17.11.2020 kl. 10:36:

Dear Mrs Petit, you can replace 2 strands yarn group A (= Alpaca + Safran here) with 1 strand yarn group C - like DROPS Paris for example - read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

Anx 09.03.2020 - 21:51:

Cześć, ppdzieliłam pracę sześcioma markerami. Prze których markerach zamyka sie oczka na początku?

DROPS Design 10.03.2020 kl. 17:48:

Witaj! Najpierw zamykamy oczka przy 2 markerach na bokach sukienki: zmknąć po 1 o. z 2 stron markerów (nie zamykać o. w miejscu 2 markerów przodu i 2 tyłu) – PATRZ ZAMYKANIE OCZEK powyżej - 8-9-9-9-9-9 razy co 5-5-5-6-6-7 okr. Od wys. 31-32-33-35-36-37 cm od dołu robótki zacząć zamykać 1 o. za 1-szym i 3-cim markerem i przed 2-gim i 4-tym markerem (przód i tył) i powtarzać to 4-4-5-5-5-5 razy co 6-6-8-8-8 okr. Pozdrawiamy!

Magda 05.03.2020 - 12:05:

Cześć, robie sukienke w rozm s i chciałbym ja przedłużyć. Zrobiłam według schematu i jest zby krótka, nawet jeśli by się wydłużyła od ciężaru. W którym miejscu dodać cm? Myślę, że miedzy schematem M2 a 6 markerami, ale nią mam pewności. Czy tak bedzie dobrze? Inne wymiary są ok.

DROPS Design 05.03.2020 kl. 17:02:

Witaj Magdo, dokładnie tak. Jak skończysz schemat, przerabiaj dalej bez schematu tyle ile chcesz przedłużyć sukienkę. Dopiero później dodaj markery i zamykaj oczka. Pozdrawiamy!

Magda 10.01.2020 - 16:24:

Dzień dobry, czy na pewno oczka na przód i tył zamyka się za 1 i 3 markerem, a przed 2 i 4, a nie odwrotnie? Czy te 28 oczek miedzy markerami nie powinno zostać bez zmian, a zmniejszać sie na bokach? Przy robieniu od góry tak właśnie robiłam.

DROPS Design 10.01.2020 kl. 18:08:

Witaj Magdo! Tak trzeba zamykać te oczka, powstaną kliny z przodu i tyłu, postępuj zgodnie z opisem. Koniecznie zamieść zdjęcie gotowej sukienki na naszej grupie DROPS Workshop na facebooku. Miłej pracy!

Magda 08.01.2020 - 22:07:

Dziękuje za odpowiedz. Jeszcze jedno pytanie. Czy oczka na bokach odejmujemy od razu, gdy robótka osiągnie dł 25 cm (rozm.S)?

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 22:41:

Witaj Magdo! A jednak się pomyliłam: wyjaśniam ponownie: na wysokości 25 cm zaczynasz zamykać 1 o. z każdej strony markerów na bokach (zamknięte 4 o. w okrążeniu). Zamykasz tak samo 9 razy co 5 okr. (razem 36 zamkniętych oczek). Jednocześnie jak dojdziesz do 32 cm wysokości, zaczynasz zamykać 1 o. za 1-szym i 3-cim markerem i przed 2-gim i 4-tym markerem (markery na tyle i przodzie; zamykasz 4 o. w okrążeniu) (PATRZ ZAMYKANIE OCZEK powyżej). Powtarzasz to 4 razy co 6 okr. (zamkniętych 16 o.). Łącznie będzie na koniec: 160-36-16=108 o. Pozdrawiam serdecznie!

Magda 07.01.2020 - 21:28:

Cześć. Prosze o wyjaśnienie, bo nie do końca rozumiem opis. Robię rozmiar S, podzieliłam prace sześcioma markerami. Które markery stanowią środek boków? Które ograniczają przód i tył? Ile oczek ma ma mieć przód i tył w rozmiarze S, bo rozumiem, że ta ilośc się nie zmienia? I czy oczka na środku boków odejmować przy samych markerach czy oczko za markerem? Pozdrawiam

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 21:45:

Witaj Magdo, skorygowałam nieco opis, aby był czytelniejszy. Markery 3 i 6 stanowią boki sukienki, jest 80 o. na tył i 80 o. na przód sukienki w rozmiarze S. Oczka na środku boków odejmować przy samych markerach, tak samo jak przy pozostałych 4 markerach. Miłej pracy!

Anneke Hommersom 20.03.2019 - 15:49:

Beste,\r\nIk wil dt jurkje maken en bij het doorlezen van het patroon begreep ik iets niet.\r\nWaarom zijn in de teltekening, twee verschillende tekens, met dezelfde beschrijving?\r\nDe zwarte driehoek in 1 vakje en de zwarte driehoek die 3 vakjes omvat.\r\n1 steek afhalen, 2 recht samenbreien, de afgehaalde steek overhalen.\r\nMisschien heb ik iets over het hoofd gezien.

DROPS Design 21.03.2019 kl. 16:45:

Dag Annemiek,

Het is inderdaad exact dezelfde steek en je hebt gelijk dat dit wat onduidelijk is. (In de nieuwe patronen is dit al aangepast.) Het betreffende symbool in M.1 wordt eigenlijk over 3 steken gebreid. In de eerste naald brei je 1 recht, 1 omslag, 8 recht, dan 1 afh, 2 sambreien, afgehaalde steek overhalen, 8 recht, 1 omslag. Het aantal steken recht wordt bij elke oneven naald 1 minder. Hopelijk is zo duidelijk wat de bedoeling is. In M.4 is dit al op de juiste wijze aangegeven met de driehoek over 3 steken.

Birgit L. 09.07.2018 - 05:34:

Ich möchte das Kleid mit Drops Belle stricken. Meine Maschenprobe ergibt zwar 15 M, aber nur 10 R auf 10 cm (mit doppeltem Faden). Wie verfahre ich am besten?

DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 08:56:

Liebe Birgit, dieses Kleid wird mit 2 Fäden Garngruppe A (= 1 Garngruppe C) gestrickt, Belle gehört aber zur Garngruppe B und ist doch keine Alternative zu diesem Modell. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Joan Honoré 12.06.2018 - 17:45:

Tak for svar. Det står desværre ikke i opskriften, at man efter udtagningerne fortsætter lige op til arb måler 71 cm. Jeg strikker videre :-) mvh Joan

Joan Honoré 11.06.2018 - 23:08:


DROPS Design 12.06.2018 kl. 11:24:

Hej, du tager ikke flere masker ud, men fortsætter til arbejdet måler 71 cm og nu lukker du af til ærmegab i hver side. God fornøjelse!

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