DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 95-9
Size: XS - S – M – L – XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-92-102-112-124 cm / 30"-33"-36"-40"-44"-48 3/4"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-200-200 g color no. 23, brown
and use: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color no. 3800, heather

DROPS Circular needle and double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 15 sts x 19 rows on needles size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand of each quality in stockinette sts. = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Pattern: see diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side

Increasing tips: Inc 1 st by picking up a st in st from previous row and knit it.

Body:
The top is knitted round on circular needles.
Cast on 100-110-120-140-150-170 sts using both ends of the circular needle (to make sure the edge becomes elastic) with 1 strand of each quality (= double strand).
Remove 1 needle. Then K1 round, P 1 round and K 1 round and continue to knit diagram M.1 around.
After 1 repeat of M.1 continue in stockinette whilst adjusting number of sts to 98-110-122-142-156-174 on first round after M.1.
When piece measures 14-14-15-16-16-17 cm / 5½"-5½"-6"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4", insert 4 markers as follows: Knit 15-17-20-24-26-30 sts, insert marker before next st (= 1st marker ), knit 19-21-21-23-26-27 sts, insert marker before next st (= 2nd marker ), knit 30-34-40-48-52-60 sts, insert marker before next st (= 3rd marker ), knit 19-21-21-23-26-27 sts, insert marker before next st (= 4th marker ), knit the remaining 15-17-20-24-26-30 sts.
Now inc 1 st after the 1st and 3rd marker and before the 2nd and 4th marker - see Increasing tips above – as follows:
Size XS - S: on every 5th round a total of 4-4 times = 114-126 sts
Size M: On every 6th round a total of 4 times = 138 sts
Size L - XL - XXL: on every 10th round a total of 3-3-3 times
= 154-168-186 sts.
After all inc have been made, remove markers and insert 2 new markers, 1 at the beginning of round and 1 after 57-63-69-77-84-93 sts.
When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm / 14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½'' bind off 8 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 4 sts both sides of markers) = 49-55-61-69-76-85 sts left on front and back piece.
Put the piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve:
Cast on 40-40-50-50-50-50 sts using 2 double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand of each yarn quality (= double strand).
Remove 1 needle and knit 1 round on double pointed needles, purl 1 round and knit 1 round. Now knit M.1.
After 1 repeat of M.1 bind off 8 sts mid under arm = 32-32-42-42-42-42 sts.
Put the sts on a holder and knit the other sleeve.

Yoke:
Put the sleeves in on the same circular needle as the body where you bound off for armholes = 162-174-206-222-236-254 sts.
Work 8-10-12-14-16-18 rounds in stockinette st, at the same time dec 1-7-13-11-18-17 sts evenly on the 2nd-3rd-4th-5th-5th-6th round and again on the 4th-7th-8th-9h-10th-12th round = 160-160-180-200-200-220 sts.
Now work M.2.
After M.2 there are 128-128-144-160-160-176 sts remaining.
Knit 2 rounds stockinette sts whilst adjusting number of sts to 117-123-129-135-144-159 on the last round.
Purl 1 round, knit 2 rounds and knit a round of holes as follows: *yo, K3 tog*, repeat from *-* = 78-82-86-90-96-106 sts left.
Knit 2 rounds, purl 1 round and bind off in purled sts.
The top measures approx 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' from lowest point.

Assembly:
Sew the openings under the arms.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = no st, st has been bound off
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (45)

country flag MARGAT NATHALIE wrote:

Modèle 95.9 faut il monter les mailles et tricoter en rond endroit envers quelle longueur de fils.merci

30.03.2024 - 23:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Margat, le top se tricote en rond; on monte les mailles sur 2 aiguilles (cf a href="https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=1778&lang=fr>vidéo) et on tricote en rond. Cette autre vidéo explique comment calculer la longueur nécessaire avant le montage (utilisez les 2 aiguilles comme pour le montage). Bon tricot!

02.04.2024 - 14:40

country flag Katharina wrote:

Guten Morgen, ich würde so gerne den Pullover nachstricken aber die Diagramme stimmen nicht. M1 ist das obere Muster für die Passe aber nicht für den Beginn der Arbeit. Das muss ein anderes Diagramm sein. Könnten Sie das bitte veröffentlichen. Vielen Dank.

05.03.2024 - 09:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katharina, am Anfang schlägt man 100-110-120-140-150-170 Maschen dann wird die 10 Maschen M.1 insgesamt 10-11-12-14-15-17 Mal wiederholt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

05.03.2024 - 15:30

country flag Carina wrote:

Hola En este patrón se puede hacer levantamiento del escote? Y si es así cuando se haría en las primeras vueltas de derecho y revés o cuándo? Gracias

03.03.2024 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carina, en este patrón es complicado hacer la elevación para el escote, ya que tiene un escote abierto y un dibujo de calados en redondo. Normalmente la elevación se hace justo después de terminar la cenefa del escote, mientras se empieza el canesú o antes de empezar. En este caso, el escote es demasiado abierto y es muy difícil trabajar una elevación en el sitio correcto.

03.03.2024 - 23:52

country flag Kay Reddy wrote:

Hi sorry I wasn't clear the first time. I cast on 150 st for the extra large. I completed 7 repeats of M1 - 140 stitches and I have 10 stitches extra. Do I knit half of the repeat?

03.08.2022 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Reddy, diagram M.1 is worked over 10 stitches, this means you will repeat these 10 sts a total of 15 times - note that first row is worked as follows: K1, YO, K3, slip 1, k2 tog, pass slipped st over knitted together sts, K3, YO (= 10 sts). But note that on the next row after M.1 you will adjust the number of sts to 156 (increase 6 sts evenly - see here how to). Happy knitting!

03.08.2022 - 15:16

country flag Kay Reddy wrote:

I am left with 10 st after completing 7 repeats in the extra large please explain thank u!

02.08.2022 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Reddy, which diagram do you mean? A.1 is worked over 10 stitches and you should repeat it a total of 10-11-12-14-15-17 times around. A.2 is worked over 20 stitches and you should repeat it a total of 8-8-9-10-10-11 times on the yoke. Can this help? Happy knitting!

02.08.2022 - 17:23

country flag Any De Lezel Couture , Marie Darchy wrote:

Bonjour quelle est la différence entre le petit triangle noir sur une maille et le grand triangle noir sur trois mailles dans le diagramme ? Car dans la légende l explication est la même. Merci de votre réponse

25.04.2022 - 19:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Darchy, la légende est effectivement la même, mais dans le diagramme, le petit triangle est compensé par 2 jetés (= le nombre de mailles va rester le même), alors que le grand triangle sur 3 cases diminue le nombre de mailles (= cases noires au rang suivant = mailles diminuées). Bon tricot!

26.04.2022 - 09:29

country flag Amie wrote:

So the two strands are confusing as both 50g balls of Safran and Alpaca are almost the same meterage. If both strands are knitted as one then it is only going to take approx 200g of yarn to knit this pattern? That’s approx 4 balls of yarn and that doesn’t sound right.

24.07.2021 - 13:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Annie, in sisze XS and S you need 150 g each yarn, this means 3 balls Safran + 3 balls Alpaca, ie 6 balls all together. Hope this will help, happy knitting!

26.07.2021 - 08:26

country flag Irene wrote:

Motsvarar dessa båda Garner grupp c? Kan jag använda Bomull Lin enkel tråd?

10.07.2021 - 20:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Irene. Ja, 2 trådar från Garngrupp A motsvarar 1 tråd från Garngrupp C, så du ska kunna använda DROPS Bomull Lin till denna topp. Se bara till att få den stickfasthet som uppges i mönstret och att beräkna riktig garnåtgång. Mvh DROPS Design

13.07.2021 - 08:39

country flag Gail wrote:

I have medium #4 yarn red heart..100%acrylic can I use this for pattern?what changes do I made..still double?

11.04.2021 - 19:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gail, please understand, that these patterns are available to support the sales of DROPS yarns, they are designed for, so we cannot advise you about using something else. Happy Knitting!

11.04.2021 - 20:34

country flag Ninon Anderson wrote:

Re pattern drops 95-9 calls for yarns Safran and Alpaca circular needle and double point 6 mm/ US 6.... my calculations re cost if beyond my budget...can I use double the amount called for of Safran...and if I do any serious chance in appearance?? Ninon

28.01.2021 - 23:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Anderson, you can replace DROPS Alpaca with any other yarn group A (as Safran) - use our yarn converter to get new amount - and read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

29.01.2021 - 08:25