DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS 88-7
Suggest a name
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-98-106-114-126 cm/
34-⅝" - 38-⅝" - 41.75" - 44-⅞" - 49-⅝"
Hem: 80-88-98-106-118 cm/
31.5" - 34-⅝" - 38-⅝" - 41.75" - 46.5"
Length: 54-56-58-60-62 cm/
21¼"-22"-22¾"-23½"-24½"

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-200 gr nr 7120, light seafoam
and use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
100-100-150-150-150 gr nr 22, light turquoise
and use: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100 gr nr 31, pastel blue

DROPS 6 mm [US 10] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 6 mm [US J] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

6 DROPS silver buttons nr 534

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
Gauge: 14 sts x 20 rows with 1 strand of each yarn (2 strands) in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Knitting tips (for neck shaping):
All decs are made on right side! Dec inside of 1 edge st in garter st as follows:
After 1 edge st: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.

Back: Cast on 58-64-70-76-84 sts with 1 strand each Alpaca and Vivaldi (= 2 strands). Knit 2 rows garter st and then continue in stockinette st.
When the piece measures 10 cm/4" inc 1 st at each side every 10 cm/4" a total of 3 times = 64-70-76-82-90 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39 cm/13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"-15¼" bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 2-3-4-4-6 times = 50-54-54-56-56 sts.
When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm/19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾" knit 2 rows with garter st over the center 18-20-20-22-22 sts (knit the other sts in stockinette st as before). Then bind off the center 16-18-18-20-20 sts for the neck. Keep 1 st at neck edge in garter st and dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row – see knitting tips above – 2 times = 15-16-16-16-16 sts remain on each shoulder.
Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm/21¼"-22"-22¾"-23½"-24½".

Right front: Cast on 33-36-39-42-46 sts with 1 strand each Alpaca and Vivaldi (= 2 strands). Knit 2 rows garter st and then continue in stockinette st, keeping the 4 outermost sts at the center front edge in garter st until neck shaping begins.
When the piece measures 10 cm/4" inc at the side as on back = 36-39-42-45-49 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39 cm/13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"-15¼" bind off for armhole at the side as on back = 29-31-31-32-32 sts.
When the piece measures 45-46-48-49-51 cm/17¾"-18"-19"-19¼"-20" knit 2 rows with garter st over the outermost 10-11-11-12-12 sts at the center front edge. Then bind off 9-10-10-11-11 sts at center front edge for neck. Keep the outermost st at neck edge in garter st and dec 1 st at neck edge every other row – see knitting tips above: 5 times = 15-16-16-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm/21¼"-22"-22¾"-23½"-24½". Bind off.

Left front: Cast on and knit the same as the right, reversing shaping.

Sleeve: Cast on 32-34-36-36-38 sts with 1 strand each Alpaca and Vivaldi (= 2 strands). Knit 2 rows garter st and then continue in stockinette st, decreasing 6 sts evenly distributed on the 1st row = 26-28-30-30-32 sts.
When the piece measures 11-10-13-10-11 cm/4½"-4"-5⅛"-4"-4½" inc 1 st at each side every 3-3-2.5-2.5-2 cm a total of 12-13-13-15-16 times = 50-54-56-60-64 sts.
When sleeve measures 48-48-47-47-45 cm/19"-19"-18½"-18½"-17¾" bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-2-2-3 times and 1 st 2-2-4-5-6 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 55-55-56-56-57 cm/21½"-21½"-22"-22"-22½", then bind off 3 sts
1 time at each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 56-56-57-57-58 cm/22"-22"-22½"-22½"-22¾".

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

Crocheted edge: Crochet loosely with Snow around lower edge of the sleeves and around entire edge of body (begin at center back lower edge, up along right front, around the back of the neck, down along left front and along bottom edge to center back).
Crochet as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 4, skip over approx. 1.5 - 2 cm/½", 1 sc in the next st *, repeat from * - * and finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.
Sew in sleeves.
Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance.
Sew on buttons evenly distributed (use the crocheted edge as buttonholes).

Crocheted blossom:
Ch 17 loosely with Snow. Turn piece and crochet back as follows:
in 2nd and 3rd ch: 3 sc in each ch.
in 4th through 8th ch: 3 hdc in each ch
in 9th through 13th ch: 3 dc in each ch
in 14th through 16th ch: 3 tr in each ch
in 17th ch: 5 tr.
Cut yarn and fasten.
Wrap spiral together into a blossom and fasten together with a small st.
Crochet 2 flowers and sew to left side of sweater.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Katharine Gratton wrote:

Can you tell me which yarn group Vivaldi belonged to? Thankyou.

07.11.2022 - 12:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gratton, sure, Vivaldi was yarn group C - you can replace Vivaldi with 2 strands Kid-Silk (see this lesson or with 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk. Happy knitting!

07.11.2022 - 16:05

country flag Kleine-König wrote:

Guten Tag,\r\n\r\nich würde gerne diese Jacke stricken.\r\n1. Die angegeben Farbnummer von Drops Alpaka stimmt nicht mit der in der Anleitung angegeben überein....?\r\n2. Welches Garn kann anstatt des Vivaldigarns genommen werden, da diese ja nicht mehr in Ihrem Sortiment ist?\r\n\r\nMit freundlichen Grüßen\r\nBärbel Kleine-König

09.08.2021 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kleine-König, die Farbkarte von DROPS Alpaca wurde geändert, nach diese Anleitung veröffentlicht war (vor einigen Jahren schon), gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden damit helfen, die besten passenden Farben zu wählen - als Alternativ zu Vivaldi können Sie 2 Fäden Kid-Silk oder 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk benutzen (siehe auch den Garnumrechner). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.08.2021 - 15:40

country flag Anna wrote:

Det står att på framstycket ska det vara 4 kantm mot mitt fram? lite senare står det fortsätt i släts samtidigt som den yttersta m mot mitt fram rätstickas.. Ska det vara 4 räta som framkant eller inte? Ser inte ut så på bilden.Kan ni förklara enkelt så jag förstår vad det ska vara i framkanten?

19.05.2014 - 22:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anna. De 4 förste masker mot mitt fram er stolpemasker (= kantmasker), men du skal kun strikke den yttersta m rät, resten strikker du i släss.

20.05.2014 - 16:56

country flag Chtikat wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerai bien faire ce gilet mais je ne sais pas quelle taille faire, y a-t-il un endroit où il y a les mensurations correspondantes aux différentes tailles, je ne les ai pas trouvées ? Merci

23.12.2013 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Chtikat, vous trouverez à la fin de chaque modèle un schéma avec les mesures pour chaque taille, ces indications pourront vous permettre de choisir votre taille pour chaque modèle de chaque catalogue (la mode évolue au fil des années et les tailles sont différentes d'un pays à l'autre). Bon tricot!

27.12.2013 - 13:19

country flag Mia wrote:

Tänkte nog fel, det väl bara sidan som ökas annars blir väl framkanten sned.

10.02.2013 - 20:40

country flag Mia wrote:

Hej, står det inte fel på höger framstycke om man stickar small =33m då kan det väl inte bli 36m efter ökningarna?

10.02.2013 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Jo du ökar 3 ggr i sidan (som på bakstycket) = 36 m.

11.02.2013 - 16:05

country flag Drops Design France wrote:

Bonjour Nicole, la bordure au crochet masque un peu les 2 rangs point mousse tricotés au début du dos, des devants et en bas des manches.

01.02.2011 - 11:22

Nicole wrote:

Bonjour, en tricotant ce modèle, je constate une différence entre les explications et la photo du modèle, elle consiste dans les mailles au point mousse au niveau des bordures qui sont inexistants sur la photo

01.02.2011 - 10:51

country flag Drops Design wrote:

Hej Gitte Tak for dit mail. De 4 kantm foran er de masker som overlapper hinanden midt foran med knap og knaphul. Hvis du tæller m vil du se at der er 4 m mere på hver forstykke i forhold til bagstykket. Disse 4 masker skal strikkes som der står i opskriften, altså i glat men den yderste m i retstrik. Venlige hilsner Garnstudio

07.06.2006 - 10:17

country flag gitte berg wrote:

vedr. forstykket. Der står anført at der skal slås masker op som er incl. 1 kantmaske i siden og 4 foran. Er en kantmaske ikke en maske der strikkes ret? Hvis det er det hvad betyder det så at der videre står "fortsæt i glatstrik samtidig med at den yderste maske mod midt for strikkes ret?

03.06.2006 - 23:39