DROPS 88-26
PULLOVER:

Sizes: 5/6 years - 7/8 years - 9/10 years - 11/12 years - 13/14 years

Finished measurements:
Bust: 72-76-84-92-96 cm [28.25" - 29-7/8" - 33" - 36.25" - 37.75"]
Hem: 68-72-80-88-92 cm [26.75" - 28.25" - 31.5" - 34-5/8" - 36.25"]

Materials: DROPS ICE
300-350-350-400-450 gr nr 03, ice blue
small amount nr 15, apple green (for crocheted edge)

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] and 9 mm [US 13] circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 6 mm [US J] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PULLOVER:

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: * K 4, P 4 *, repeat * - *.

Knitting tips (for raglan shaping):
All decs are made on right side rows. Dec 1 st in each transition between sleeve, front and back (start 3 sts before the marker) as follows:
K 2 tog, K 2 (the marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.

Knitting tip: If your row gauge is not accurate the yoke will not fit. If your gauge is too tight, add rows without decs. If your gauge is too loose, dec more frequently.

Body: Loosely cast on 64-72-80-88-96 sts on smaller circular needles with ice blue; join and place a marker at the join. K 1 row, then knit rib until the piece measures 4 cm. Put a marker at each side (32-36-40-44-48 sts for front and back).
Change to larger circular needles and stockinette st, adjusting (inc/dec as needed) to 68-72-80-88-92 sts on the 1st row.
When the piece measures 16 cm inc 1 st at each side of each marker = 72-76-84-92-96 sts.
When the piece measures 23-25-27-28-29 cm bind off 3 sts at each side of each marker for armhole = 30-32-36-40-42 sts remain on front and back.
Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Loosely cast on 16-16-16-24-24 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with ice blue; join and place a marker at the join. K 1 row, then knit rib until piece measures 6 cm.
Change to larger double-pointed needles and stockinette st, adjusting (inc if needed) to 16-18-20-24-24 sts on the 1st row.
When the piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st each side of marker every 8-8.5-10-16-12 cm a total of 4-4-4-3-4 times = 24-26-28-30-32 sts.
When sleeve measures 36-40-44-46-49 cm bind off 3 sts each side of marker = 18-20-22-24-26 sts.
Lay piece aside and knit second sleeve.

Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as body where you bound off for armholes = 96-104-116-128-136 sts. Put a marker in each transition between front, back and sleeves (= 4 markers).
Knit 0-0-1-1-0 rows before beginning shaping.
Read the entire section before knitting:

Raglan shaping: Dec 1 st at each side of each marker (= 8 decs per row) every 4 rows – see knitting tips above: 3-3-2-2-2 times and then every other row: 3-4-6-7-8 times.

Neck: When the piece measures 29-32-34-36-38 cm put the center front 6-6-6-8-8 sts on a st holder for the neck, then dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 4 times.
After all raglan and neck shaping is complete 34-34-38-40-40 sts remain on needles.
Neckband: Pick up 14-18 sts (incl. sts from st holder) in front neck with ice blue and put all sts on smaller double-pointed needles = approx. 48-58 sts. Join and knit 3 rows stockinette st, decreasing to 40-40-41-45-46 sts on the 1st row. Bind off all sts – so that the edge will not be too tight, make a yo approx. every 5 sts and bind off the yo as a st.

Assembly: Sew opening under the sleeve.
Crocheted edge: Crochet with apple green along neck as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 5, skip over 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st *, repeat * - * and finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in first st at start of row.





HAT:

Sizes: 5/8 (9/14) years

Materials: ICE
50 gr nr 15, apple green
small amounts of the following colors:
nr 04 beige, nr 11 green and nr 16 mint.

DROPS 6 mm [US J] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Ch 8 with apple green and join into a ring with 1 sl st.
1st row: ch 6 (= 1 tc + ch 2) * 1 tc in ring, ch 2 *, repeat * - * a total of 7 (8) times and finish with 1 sl st in the ch 4 at start of row = 8 (9) ch-loops.
2nd row: ch 6 (= 1 tc + ch 2), in each tc: * 1 tc, ch 2, 1 tc, 2 ch *, and finish with 1 tc in last sl st from previous row, ch 2 and 1 sl st in the ch 4 at start of row = 8 (9) tc-groups.
3rd-4th (3rd-5th) rows: ch 6 (= 1 tc + 2 ch), in each tc: * 1 tc, ch 2 *, and finish with 1 sl st in the ch 4 at start of row = 16 (18) tc.
5th (6th) row: ch 1, 1 sc in first tc, * ch 4, 1 sc in the next tc *, repeat * - * and finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in first ch at start of row.
Cut yarn and fasten.

Edge:
Border-1: Crochet with mint in the ch-loops on row 5 (6) as follows: * 1 sc in ch-loop, ch 4 *, repeat * - * and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.
Border-2: Crochet with beige in the ch-loops on row 4 (5) as follows: * 1 sc in ch-loop, ch 4 *, repeat * - * and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.
Border-3: Crochet with green in the ch-loops on the same row as Border-2 as follows: *1 sc in ch-loop, ch 4, 1 tc in the first of the ch 4*, repeat * - * and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Fernande wrote:

88-26 -Je suis rendue au Col de ce chandail... J'ai relevé les mailles en attente..... et là ...oh.la.la... les explications ne me suffisent pas... pouvez-vous m'aider.... merci .. je suis à mon 1er pull......

07.11.2019 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fernande, reprenez les mailles de la fin de l'empiècement et relevez des mailles dans celles de l'encolure (les 6-8 mises en attente + les 4 m diminuées de chaque côté = 14-18 m au total), vous devez maintenant avoir environ 40-48 m au total. Tricotez maintenant en rond en jersey pendant 3 tours, en même temps, au 1er rang, ajuster le nombre de mailles (en diminuant ou augmentant) à 40-41-45-46 m. Rabattez toutes les mailles avec 1 jeté toutes les 5 m (pas envers, correction faite) comme dans cette vidéo. Bon tricot!

08.11.2019 - 08:55

country flag Cova wrote:

Muchas gracias por las aclaraciones. Entiendo entonces que trabajo ida y vuelta por separado cada parte del delantero (raglan y disminuciones) osea los puntos que quedan repartidos en dos grupos al dejar 6 en un gancho auxiliar. ¿Es así?

13.04.2016 - 12:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cova. Cuando empiezas con el raglán tienes todas las partes del jersey en la misma aguja. Ahora los 6 pts centrales quedan apartados en un gancho aux y vas a trabajar de ida y vta en los pts restantes (es decir la parte del delantero, la manga, la espalda, la otra manga y la otra parte del delantero)

13.04.2016 - 12:43

country flag Cova wrote:

Buenos días, vuelvo a atascarme ;-( He acabado con el RAGLA, tengo 48 puntos en la aguja circular. ¿Cómo sigo el ESCOTE? ¿dejo 6 puntos de los 48 o de 24 en espera? ¿dónde hago las disminuciones de la segunda fila 4 veces?. Gracias de antemano, saludos.

11.04.2016 - 12:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cova, las dism se trabajan en el centro del delantero a cada lado del escote y disminuyendo 1 pt cada 2ª fila un total de 4 vcs

13.04.2016 - 09:14

country flag Cova wrote:

Vuelvo a atascarme. Ya he completado el RAGLAN pero no entiendo cómo seguir con las instrucciones de ESCOTE. Tengo 48 puntos en la aguja circular. ¿Dejo 6 en espera de los 48? ¿o de 24 si cuento separar escote y espalda? en fin, gracias de nuevo por vuestra ayuda...Saludos

11.04.2016 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cova, de la parte delantera pasamos los 6 pts centrales a un gancho aux. A partir de aquí trabajamos de ida y vta y NO en redondo. Continuamos con las dism del raglán y al mismo tiempo disminuímos a cada lado del escote según el patrón. Ten en cuenta que ya tenemos separados con MP las diferentes partes: delantero, espalda...

13.04.2016 - 09:12

country flag Cova wrote:

Muchas gracias por la respuesta, creo que ya lo entiendo. Es mi primer jersey con raglan!

03.04.2016 - 12:37

country flag Cova wrote:

Buenos días. He acabado de tejer el cuerpo en aguja circular, también he tejido las mangas por separado en circular. No se bien cómo unir las mangas al cuerpo y continuar con el raglan. El video de la union que hay en el patrón no usa una pieza de cuerpo y espalda cerrada en circular como yo he hecho. Gracias!!!!

01.04.2016 - 12:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cova. Antes de unir todas las partes en ag circular tienes que cerrar los pts para la sisa tanto en el cuerpo como en las mangas (ver el patrón). Después trabajamos el delantero hasta donde se ha cerrado para la sisa, continuamos trabajando los pts de una manga con la misma ag circular que el delantero, después seguimos con los pts de la espalda y al final trabajamos los pts de la otra manga. De este modo tenemos todos los pts de la prenda en una ag circular. Ahora continuamos la labor según el patrón

02.04.2016 - 17:14

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Med raglan er det veldig viktig at strikkfasheten innholdes. Har du riktig strikkfashet?

25.11.2010 - 13:29

country flag Maria wrote:

Kan det passe at ærme skal være så smal?

22.11.2010 - 14:32

country flag Drops Design wrote:

En raglanfelling strikkes ved at bolen og ermene settes sammen på samme rundp der ermhullet begynner. Videre strikkes det rundt og det felles m på hver side av alle overgangene mellom ermer og bol - dvs 8 fellinger pr omg. Dette vil stå nøye forklart på oppskrifter med raglanfelling - da er det bare å følge oppskriften!

31.08.2007 - 13:33

country flag Kathrine wrote:

Hvordan strikker en raglan felling?

30.08.2007 - 20:42