DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 72.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Cable Heart

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders and cables. Sizes S-XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 255-15

#cableheartsweater

DROPS Design: Pattern ai-503
Yarn group A + C or D
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 104-112-122-132-142-152 cm = 41"-44"-48"-52"-55¾"-59¾"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color 02, wheat
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g color 56, marzipan

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 20 rows in height, with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality on needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
16 stitches in width and 21 rows in height, with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality on needle size 5 MM = US 8 = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Jumpers assembly free cable european shoulder round neck top down

DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 72.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side.
Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3).

INCREASE TIP:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the front strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the back strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, knit the front loop.

I-CORD BIND OFF:
At the end of the round, after the last stitch is worked:
Cast on 3 stitches on the right needle from the right side.
Slip the 3 stitches onto the left needle, so the strand is inside these 3 stitches (the working strand then tightens the piece to form a small tube).
ROW 1 (right side):
Knit 2, knit 2 twisted together.
ROW 2 (right side):
Slip the 3 stitches from the right needle back onto the left needle, knit 2, knit 2 twisted together.
Repeat ROW 2 until there are 3 stitches left on the right needle. Slip these 3 stitches onto the left needle. Bind off.
Sew a small stitch, joining the beginning and end of the I-cord together.

KNITTING TIP:
When working short rows, there will be a small hole after each turn – this hole can be closed by tightening the strand or using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip the first stitch purl-wise, lay the strand over the right needle and tighten well from the back. There are now 2 loops on the needle, which are worked together on the next row.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is first worked back and forth on circular needle. Start by casting on stitches at the back of the neck and working the back piece back and forth, top down, while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders, which become slightly diagonal. The back piece is worked as far as the armholes.
The front piece is started in 2 sections, knitting up stitches along one back shoulders and working downwards with pattern while increasing for the neckline, then repeating this on the other shoulder. The 2 sections are joined when the increases for the neckline are finished, and the front piece is continued back and forth until the armholes are finished.
The front and back pieces are joined on the same circular needle and the body finished, in the round.
Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeves, which are started back and forth for the sleeve cap, then finished in the round.
Stitches are knitted up around the neckline and the neck worked in the round.
If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Cast on 28-28-28-30-30-30 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9, 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Purl, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row.
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 11-12-13-14-15-17 times (= 22-24-26-28-30-34 rows), after the last increase there are 72-76-80-86-90-98 stitches.
Insert 1 marker outermost on one side. The piece is now measured from here!
Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 12-13-13-13-13-14 cm = 4¾"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5½" from the marker, measured along the outside of the armhole. Remember to maintain the knitting gauge. Now increase for the armholes on each side.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (= right side): Read INCREASE TIP, knit 3 and increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-3-4-4-4 times = 76-80-86-94-98-106 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-17-18 cm = 5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-7" from the marker, measured along the armhole and finishing with a row from the wrong side. Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder. Work the left shoulder and front piece as follows:

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left shoulder on the back piece as follows: Lay the piece flat, right side up, with the stitch holder towards you; left side of piece = left shoulder.
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the left back shoulder, from the neck to the armhole as follows:
Knit up 1 stitch in each stitch, inside the outermost stitch = 22-24-26-28-30-34 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Work as follows from the wrong side:
Purl 14-16-18-20-22-26, *make 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, work from *-* 1 more time, knit 3, work from *-* 2 more times, knit 1 = 26-28-30-32-34-38 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Work the next row from the right side as follows: Work A.1a over the first 12 stitches, work stockinette stitch to end of row.
Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and A.1a.
When the piece measures 8-8-9-10-11-12 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4"-4⅜"-4¾", increase towards the neck as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work as before.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work as before and cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row – these new stitches are continued in stockinette stitch.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2 times (= 4 rows) = 30-32-34-36-38-42 stitches.
Work 2 rows as before without increasing (with the next row from the right side).
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holding, noting which row in A.1 you finished on. Now work the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the right back shoulder from the armhole to the neck as follows:
Knit up 1 stitch in each stitch, inside the outermost stitch = 22-24-26-28-30-34 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Work as follows from the wrong side:
Knit 1, * make 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, work from *-* 1 more time, knit 3, work from *-* 2 more times, purl 14-16-18-20-22-26 = 26-28-30-32-34-38 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

Work as follows from the right side: Stockinette stitch over the first 14-16-18-20-22-26 stitches, work A.2a to end of row.
Work back and forth with stockinette stitch and A.2a.
When the piece measures 8-8-9-10-11-12 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4"-4⅜"-4¾", and there are 4 rows left in the pattern until the right front piece matches the left front piece, increase towards the neck as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the row as before, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row – these new stitches are continued in stockinette stitch.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work the row as before.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2 times (= 4 rows) = 30-32-34-36-38-42 stitches (with the next row from the right side).
Now the 2 front pieces are joined – it is important that the pattern is of equal length on both front pieces, so the cables are symmetrical on the body.

FRONT PIECE (right and left front pieces joined):
Work as follows from the right side:
Work the 30-32-34-36-38-42 stitches on the right front piece, cast on 24-24-24-26-26-26 stitches for the neckline, work the 30-32-34-36-38-42 stitches from the left front piece = 84-88-92-98-102-110 stitches.
The patterns on each front piece, i.e., A.1a and A.2a, are continued with A.1b and A.2b - you are cabling every 4th row.
Work as follows from the wrong side: Work 14-16-18-20-22-26 stockinette stitches, A.1b over the next 17 stitches, knit 2, * make 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, work from *-* 1 more time, knit 3-3-3-4-4-4, purl 1, work from *-* 7 times, knit 3-3-3-4-4-4, work from *-* 2 times, knit 2, work A.2b over the next 17 stitches and stockinette stitch to end of row = 95-99-103-109-113-121 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

Continue with stockinette stitch and pattern. All the diagrams are aligned so the small cables are worked on the same row (every 4th row). To avoid the neck curling, do not cable the first 3 rows when working A.3.
Work as follows from the right side:
Work 14-16-18-20-22-26 stockinette stitches, A.2b, A.3, A.1b and stockinette stitch to end of row.
Continue this pattern and stockinette stitch until the piece measures 22-23-23-23-25-26 cm = 8¾"-9"-9"-9"-9¾"-10¼" from the knitted-up row. Now increase for the armholes.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (= right side): Remember INCREASE TIP. Knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, work as before until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work back as before.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-3-4-4-4 times = 99-103-109-117-121-129 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾", finishing after a row from the wrong side. The front and back pieces are joined for the body. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
Work the 99-103-109-117-121-129 stitches from the front piece as before, cast on 2-4-6-4-8-8 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), work the 76-80-86-94-98-106 stitches from the back piece, cast on 2-4-6-4-8-8 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve) = 179-191-207-221-235-251 stitches.
Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and pattern as before until the piece measures approx. 33-34-35-35-36-37 cm = 13"-13⅜"-13¾"-13¾"-14¼"-14½" from the armhole – adjust so the last round is either row 3 or 11 in A.3.
Work 1 round with knit over knit and purl over purl, AT THE SAME TIME, across the cabled sections, knit 2 together over all knitted stitches (= 23 decreased stitches) = 156-168-184-198-212-228 stitches.
Read I-CORD BIND OFF and bind off with I-cord. The front piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾" measured from the knitted-up row. The front piece is 2 cm = ¾" longer than the length given in the measurement chart, because the knitted-up row is not on top of the shoulder but slightly down the back piece. The sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26".

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked from the armhole down with circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9.
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of the armhole = mid-top of shoulder (NOTE! Mid-top of shoulder is not the same place as the knitted up row for the front piece but approx. 5 to 6 cm = 2" to 2⅜" down the front piece).
Using circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and starting in the middle of the cast-on stitches under the sleeve, knit up 60-64-68-70-76-80 stitches around the armhole, making sure you knit up equal numbers of stitches on each side of the marker.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth, with short rows across the sleeve cap to give the sleeve a better fit, starting mid-under the sleeve – read KNITTING TIP:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit to 6-7-6-7-6-5 stitches past the marker on top of the shoulder, turn – read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl to 6-7-6-7-6-5 stitches past the marker, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit to 6-7-6-7-6-5 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl to 6-7-6-7-6-5 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until you have turned 6-6-8-8-10-12 times (= 3-3-4-4-5-6 times on each side and the last row is from the wrong side).

AFTER THE FINAL TURN:
After the last repeat of row 4, turn and work back from the right side to the beginning of the round (mid-under the sleeve).
Insert 1 marker-thread mid-under the sleeve, which is used when decreasing. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.
Work stockinette stitch in the round, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease as follows - read DECREASE TIP:
When the sleeve measures 1 cm = ⅜" measured under the sleeve, decrease 2 stitches 1-2-3-2-4-4 times, every 2nd round, then decrease 2 stitches every 4-3½-3½-3-2½-2 cm = 1½"-1¼"-1¼"-1⅛"-1"-¾" 9-9-9-11-11-13 times = 40-42-44-44-46-46 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 48-47-47-46-46-44 cm = 19"-18½"-18½"-18"-18"-17¼" from mid-top of shoulder.
Bind off with I-cord.
The sleeve measures approx. 49-48-48-47-47-45 cm = 19¼"-19"-19"-18½"-18½"-17¾" from mid-top of shoulder.

NECK:
With circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands), start from the right side by one knitted-up edge and knit up approx. 74-74-76-80-82-84 stitches inside 1 stitch around the neckline. Knit 1 round and adjust the stitch count if necessary - which must be divisible by 2. Work stockinette stitch in the round for 6 cm = 2⅜".
Work 2 rounds of rib (knit 1, purl 1). Knit 4 rounds. Bind off with knit, making 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch - which are bind off as normal stitches.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 07.11.2024
Please add correctiont text: Diagrams are updated.

Updated online: 25.11.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction under back piece, increase for armholes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= place 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, place the last purled stitch on cable needle back onto left needle and purl this stitch, knit 4 from cable needle
	= place 5 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, place the last purled stitch on cable needle back onto left needle and purl this stitch, knit 4 from cable needle
	= place 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
	= place 5 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

Genevieve Cabrol wrote:

Dans le demi devant gauche "Tricoter 2 rangs comme avant sans augmenter " Ces deux rangs ne sont pas mentionnés sur l'autre demi devant => Décalage

25.11.2024 - 11:18

25.11.2024 - 11:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cabrol, lorsque vous tricotez le devant gauche, vous tricotez 2 fois les rangs 1 et 2 au total, puis vous tricotez encore 2 rangs de la même façon mais sans augmenter sur l'endroit = vous n'avez pas de décalage mais vous avez tricoté 6 rangs au total. Bon tricot!

25.11.2024 - 14:58

Dans la partie AUGMENTATIONS POUR LES EMMANCHURES: RANG 1 (= sur l'endroit): Voir AUGMENTATIONS, tricoter 1 maille endroit et augmenter 1 maille inclinée à gauche, il me semble qu'il y a une erreur . C'est 3 mailles qu'il faut tricoter avant l'augmentation

25.11.2024 - 11:14

Bonjour Mme Cabrol, merci pour votre retour, correction faite. Bonne continuation!

25.11.2024 - 14:57

Andrea wrote:

Hallo, in der Anleitung steht für Größe S beim Rückenteil 12 cm bis zu den Zunahmen für die Armausschnitte, beim Vorderteil aber 22 cm. Ist die Differenz von 10 cm richtig? Wenn nein, welches Maß stimmt? LG Andrea

18.11.2024 - 13:36

Liebe Andrea, so stimmt es, die Schulterlinie wird etwas im Rücken sein - so haben Sie auch (10+22= 32/2 = 16 cm Armloch, wie in der Skizze). Siehe auch unter Tab Videos/Letkion wie man so einen Pullover mit europäsichen Schultern strickt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

18.11.2024 - 16:18

Mona Robinson Webjørnsen wrote:

Genser Cable Heart: Har et spørsmål når jeg skal begynne på mønster A1. De 12 første m fra retten,strikkes mønster,resten av pinnen strikkes rett. Hvordan strikker jeg fra vrangsiden?

01.11.2024 - 17:22

Hei Mona. Oppskriften er oversendt til design avd. slik at de kan dobbeltsjekke og evnt komme med en rettelse. Flettene bør / skal stikkes fra retten. mvh DROPS Design

04.11.2024 - 14:14

Elisabeth Levin wrote:

Hej!\r\nStämmer flätmönstret? Om jag börjar på A1a från rätsidan så blir fjärde varvet från avigsidan. Då borde inte man sticka maskorna med flätstickan räta. För då blir det avigt i flätans första varv. Eller tänker jag fel?\r\n/Elisabeth

31.10.2024 - 21:01

Ela wrote:

Dzień dobry Dlaczego w tym wzorze przy tym połączeniu włóczek użyte są druty nr 5,5? A w zakładce połączenia włóczek przy tych włóczkach zalecacie nr 7. Pozdrawiam

25.10.2024 - 22:32

Witaj Elu, projektant mógł zaprojektować ten sweter na cieńszych drutach, ponieważ mogło mu zależeć na innym efekcie, sweter będzie bardziej zbity. Pamiętaj, że podany rozmiar drutów jest orientacyjny. Ważne, abyś otrzymała próbkę jaka jest we wzorze. Pozdrawiamy!

28.10.2024 - 09:06

Soile wrote:

Hei, onko virhe olkapään neuleohjeessa? Langankierrot/lisäykset siirtävät erikohtaan palmikon? Kiitos vastauksesta.

24.10.2024 - 22:01

Hei, palmikoiden kohdalla ei tehdä lisäyksiä. Mallineule jatkuu kuten aiemmin vaikka työhön luodaan uusia silmukoita pääntietä varten. Lisätyt silmukat neulotaan sileänä neuleena.

25.10.2024 - 17:53

Andrews wrote:

Est il possible de tricoter ce modèle avec 2 Aiguilles et non avec une aiguille circulaire ? Et comment avoir le modèle ?

15.10.2024 - 07:43

Bonjour Mme Andrews, vous trouverez sous les onglets Vidéos et Leçons comment ce pull se commence, pour les parties tricotées en rond, cette leçon pourra vous aider à faire les ajustements nécessaires (pensez par ex à ne pas faire la couture des côtés avant de relever les mailles des manches pour pouvoir les tricoter plus facilement. Bon tricot!

15.10.2024 - 10:30

Cable Heart

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders and cables. Sizes S-XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

European shoulder (front pieces)

European shoulder (pieces worked together)

European shoulder (sleeve)

European shoulder (neck)

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to read a schematic drawing

How to read knitting diagrams

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to increase stitches at the end of a row

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 255-15

Comments / Questions (9)

Cable Heart

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders and cables. Sizes S-XXXL.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	6.45 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	6.45 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 6.45 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 6.45 $ /50g Order