DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Embrace Winter Neck Warmer

Knitted neck warmer in DROPS Daisy or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with saddle shoulders and relief pattern.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 253-6

#embracewinterneckwarmer

DROPS design: Pattern da-034
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Length at the top of shoulder: Approx. 26-28 cm = 10¼"-11"
Width: Approx. 40-40 cm = 15¾"-15¾"

YARN:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-200 g color 02, marzipan

Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-200 g color 50, light beige

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length: 40 cm = 16"
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch on needle size 4 MM = US 6 = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Accessories Neck Warmers high neck relief round neck saddle shoulder stocking stitch top down

DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
Number of stitches in A.1 will vary but is always counted as 6 stitches.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.
Then work the new stitches in pattern.

I-CORD:
FIRST 2 STITCHES:
Work as follows on every row: Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
LAST 2 STITCHES:
Work as follows on every row: Work until 2 stitches remain on needle, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth on needle):
Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch in each side as follows:
Work i-cord, work 2 stitches in garter stitch, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, lift slipped stitch over stitch worked, work pattern as before until 7 stitches remain on row, knit 2 together, knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch, finish with i-cord (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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NECK WARMER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF PIECE:
In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed.
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from right shoulder at the back, and work top down. When yoke is done, bind off for shoulder and divide the piece in front piece and back piece. Work front and back piece back and forth separately.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 104-120 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with DROPS Daisy or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 (cast on on a larger needle to get an elastic cast-on edge). Work rib and PATTERN - read explanation above, in the round as follows:
Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) over the first 6-10 stitches, work A.1, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) over the next 46-54 stitches, work A.1, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) over the last 40-44 stitches. Continue the round like this for 8 cm = 3⅛" - adjust so that last round is last round in A.1. The neck edge can later be folded in towards wrong side and assembled to form a neck edge of approx. 4 cm = 1½". Insert 1 marker after the first 35-43 stitches on round (= approx. mid front), measures piece from this marker.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Now insert 4 the markers in the piece, use the markers when increasing for saddle shoulder. Work next round as follows:
Work rib and A.1 as before over the first 18-26 stitches (= shoulder stitches), insert 1st marker here.
Work in stockinette stitch over the next 34-34 AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch (= 33-33 stitches for front piece), insert 2nd marker here.
Work rib and A.1 over the next 18-26 stitches (= shoulder stitches), insert 3rd marker here.
Work in stockinette stitch over the next 34-34 stitches AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch (= 33-33 stitches for front piece), insert 4th marker here = 102-118 stitches.
On next round work pattern while AT THE SAME TIME increasing for saddle shoulder as explained below - read the 2 next paragraphs before continuing.

PATTERN:
Work in the round as follows: Work rib and A.1 as before over the first 18-26 stitches, work A.2, work A.3 until next marker (= front piece), work rib and A.1 as before over the next 18-26 stitches, work A.2, work A.3 the rest of round (= back piece). Pattern will not fit a whole repetition but work as far as possible (pattern will be symmetrical). Continue with moss stitch / A.3 like this, work the increased stitches in pattern.

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Increase 4 stitches on round as follows:
Increase AFTER 1st and 3rd marker, and BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker - read INCREASE TIP Increase only on back piece and front piece and number of shoulder stitches stays the same.
Increase like this every round 27-27 times in total = 210-226 stitches. Remember to follow the knitting gauge! After last increase yoke measures approx. 10 cm = 4" from marker mid front.
On next round (= last round worked in the round), bind off shoulder stitches and work front piece and back piece separately. Work as follows: Bind off the first 18-26 stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl, work A.3 as before over the next 87-87 stitches (= front piece), bind off the next 18-26 stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl, work A.3 as before over the last 87-87 stitches (= back piece).
Finish front pieces and back piece separately. Slip stitches from front piece on a thread or needle and work over stitches from back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 87-87 stitches.
Now work pattern back and forth, work 1st row from wrong side. Work 2 stitches I-CORD – read explanation above, work 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch work A.3 as before, until 6 stitches remain on row, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, work 2 stitches in garter stitch and finish with 2 stitches i-cord.
Work back and forth like this while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 1 stitch in each side.
Read DECREASE TIP and decrease 14-14 times on every other round (i.e. Every row from right side) = 59-59 stitches. Piece measures approx. 20 cm = 8" from marker mid front.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and work next row from right side as follows:
Work 2 stitches i-cord, work rib (= purl 2 / knit 2) over the next 53-53 stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 11-11 stitches evenly over these stitches, purl 2, and finish with 2 stitches i-cord = 70-70 stitches.
Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) with i-cord in each side for 3 cm = 1⅛".
Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Neck warmer measures approx. 23-23 cm = 9"-9" from marker mid front and approx. 26-28 cm = 10¼"-11" from the top of shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as on back piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make a hole
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
	= this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #embracewinterneckwarmer or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (4)

Riitta Herva wrote:

Hei. Mallineuleen A2 ja A3 järjestys. Neulotaanko niitä vuorotellen samalla, kun tehdään satulaolkapään lisäykset ja? Kun ohjeessa kerrotaan: Jatka helmineuletta, tarkoittaako mallineule A2 vai A3? Kun jatketaan piirroksen A3 mallineuletta, niin aloitetaan kerroksesta 1 alkaen? Vähän sekava ohjeistus A2 ja A3 mallineuleista. Ymmärrän niiden piirrokset, mutta en järjestystä. Kiitos.

02.12.2024 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, neulo seuraavasti (tee samalla lisäykset): Neulo ensimmäisillä 18-26 silmukalla joustinneuletta ja piirroksen A.1 mallineuletta kuten aiemmin, neulo mallineuletta piirroksen A.2 mukaisesti, neulo mallineuletta piirroksen A.3 mukaisesti, kunnes olet seuraavan merkin kohdalla (= etukappale), neulo seuraavilla 18-26 silmukalla joustinneuletta ja piirroksen A.1 mallineuletta kuten aiemmin, neulo mallineuletta piirroksen A.2 mukaisesti, neulo jäljellä olevilla silmukoilla mallineuletta piirroksen A.3 mukaisesti (= takakappale). Kun olet neulonut piirroksen A.2 loppuun, jatkat neulomista piirroksen A.3 mukaan siten, että helmineule jatkuu rikkoutumattomana.

06.12.2024 - 18:22

Susanne wrote:

Skrev tidligere i dag - jeg har fundet ud af det 👍

23.11.2024 - 18:11

Jeg forstår ikke hvordan mønsteret skal gå op ved strik af halskant. Jeg skal slutte med 44 m. rib. Derefter skal jeg fortsætte rundt på samme måde 8 cm. Hvis jeg igen skal starte omg. med 10 m. og herefter mønster A1 ligger mønsteret ikke over hinanden. Skal jeg starte næste omgang med de 44 rib. som jeg sluttede forrige omgang med?

23.11.2024 - 17:32

Hej Susanne, du kan sætte et mærke så du nøjagtig ved hvor omgangen og mønsteret starter, men det er ret enkelt, du skal have 46 masker rib foran og bagpå og så mønsteret i hver side som på billedet :)

27.11.2024 - 07:54

Susan Köfer wrote:

Im A1 muster in der 3. reihe bleibt bei mir nur 1 masche zwischen den linken übrig. Aber in der 4. reihe sollten es 2 sein. Was mache ich falsch? Hilfe bitte😏

02.11.2024 - 22:20

Liebe Frau Köfer, bei der 3. Reihe soll nur 1 Masche abgenommen werden, dh: 1 Masche wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, die 2 nächsten Maschen rechts stricken (also separat, nicht zusammen) und dann die abgehobene Masche über die gestrickten ziehen = es sind immer noch 2 Maschen übrig. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

04.11.2024 - 08:53