Green Whisper Cardigan by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch, double neck, raglan and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 243-4
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-462
Yarn group C + A + A or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 42, pistachio ice cream
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-200-225-250-275-300 g colour 47, pistachio ice cream
BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 502: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.
KNITTING TENSION:
12 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with 1 strand DROPS Air, 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk and moss stitch (A.1) = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-462
Yarn group C + A + A or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 42, pistachio ice cream
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-200-225-250-275-300 g colour 47, pistachio ice cream
BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 502: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.
KNITTING TENSION:
12 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with 1 strand DROPS Air, 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk and moss stitch (A.1) = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches – hereafter known as raglan-stitches.
The raglan-stitches are knitted from the right side and purled from the wrong side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row as described below. The new stitches are worked into A.1.
From the wrong side:
BEFORE raglan-stitch:
Purl the yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over was knitted, or knit the yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over should was purled, there should be no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitch:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, place it back on the left needle the other way round (twisted), purl the yarn over if the next stitch is to be knitted or knit the yarn over if the next stitch is to be purled, there should be no hole.
INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row/round = no hole.
DECREASE TIP (mid-under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch alternately before and after the marker-stitch, by either knitting or purling 2 together depending on the previous/next stitch in A.1.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neckline. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8½-9-7½-8-8 cm between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. A neckline is worked with short rows, the yoke continued before being divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle then divide piece for splits in each side and work each piece separately until finished measurements. The sleeves are worked in the round with circular needles/ double pointed needles.
The neck is folded double and sewn down to finish.
DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 69-73-75-79-81-87 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm, 1 strand DROPS Air and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk (3 strands). Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. At the end of the next 2 rows, cast on 6 band stitches = 81-85-87-91-93-99 stitches.
Continue the rib with the 7 outermost stitches on each side in garter stitch (bands).
Work until the neck measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm and the next row is from the right side.
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches.
NOTE: In size S, M, L and XXL each marker is placed in a purl stitch, seen from the right side; in size XL and XXXL each marker is placed in a knit stitch, seen frrom the right side – the stitches with a marker are now called raglan-stitches The raglan stitches are now knitted from the right side and purled from the wrong side.
Count 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches (front piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 15-19-21-19-19-23 stitches (back piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch. There are 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches left after the last marker (front piece).
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 4-8-2-0-4-0 stitches evenly as follows: Work past marker-1, decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 1 and 2 (do not decrease the raglan-stitches), decrease 0-4-2-0-0-0 stitches evenly between markers 2 and 3, decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 3 and 4, knit to end of row = 77-77-85-91-89-99 stitches.
There are 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4 (sleeves) and 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches between markers 2 and 3 (back piece).
NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 7 mm. Now work a neckline with short rows AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1, remembering to knit the 4 raglan-stitches from the right side and purl them from the wrong side. Work to 2 stitches past raglan-stitch 1 i (i.e., front left of neck when the garment is worn), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for RAGLAN on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches – read description above, work to 2 stitches past raglan-stitch 4 (i.e., front right of neck = 8 stitches increased), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work A.1 to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 1, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, work to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 4 (= 8 increased stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Work A.1 to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 1, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, work to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 4 (= 8 stitches increased), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 7 (wrong side). Work A.1 to the end of the row (the raglan-stitches are purled from the wrong side and the bands worked in garter stitch).
The short rows are finished and you have increase 3 times for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches = 101-101-109-115-113-123 stitches.
Work now the yoke as described below, from mid-front. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
YOKE:
Continue A.1 with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and the raglan-stitches knitted from the right side/purled from the wrong side. Continue to increase for raglan as follows:
Increase every 2nd row (each row from the right side) but every 2nd increase is only on the front/back pieces, i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd row, increase on the sleeves every 4th row (increase alternately 4 and 8 stitches). Increase like this 12-14-18-18-20-20 times on the front/back pieces and 6-7-9-9-10-10 times on the sleeves = 173-185-217-223-233-243 stitches.
The increases on the sleeves are finished. Continue to increase on the front/back pieces 4-4-0-1-2-3 more times = 189-201-217-227-241-255 stitches.
All increases are now finished.
Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 19-21-22-22-25-26 cm, measured after the neck mid-back.
Divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 55-59-63-65-71-77 stitches (back piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!
BODY:
= 137-145-153-163-177-195 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow them to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the split in each side.
Continue A.1 over all stitches with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the body measures 21-21-22-23-22-23 cm from the division, divide at both markers and finish each piece separately. The marker-stitches belong to each front piece.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the band) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows from the wrong side (from the side): 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off. You can use Italian cast off – see video under Tips and Help on our web page. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the band) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows from the wrong side (from mid-front): 7 band stitches in garter stitch * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the left front piece.
BACK PIECE:
= 61-65-69-75-81-91 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 18-20-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly spaced = 79-85-89-95-105-115 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the front pieces.
SLEEVES:
Place the 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-42-46-50-54-56 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue A.1 in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch before the marker – read DECREASE TIP. When the sleeve measures 12-12-8-6½-5-5 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch after the marker – remember DECREASE TIP. Continue to decrease like this (alternately before and after the marker) every 8-8-4-3-2-2 cm a total of 4-4-8-10-14-14 times (2-2-4-5-7-7 times before and 2-2-4-5-7-7 times after the marker) = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-35-35-36-34-32 cm from the division. Knit 1 round and increase 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches evenly spaced = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the body. The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-45-46-44-42 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and folding outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. Sew the openings mid-front on the bands, with small stitches.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches – hereafter known as raglan-stitches.
The raglan-stitches are knitted from the right side and purled from the wrong side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row as described below. The new stitches are worked into A.1.
From the wrong side:
BEFORE raglan-stitch:
Purl the yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over was knitted, or knit the yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over should was purled, there should be no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitch:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, place it back on the left needle the other way round (twisted), purl the yarn over if the next stitch is to be knitted or knit the yarn over if the next stitch is to be purled, there should be no hole.
INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row/round = no hole.
DECREASE TIP (mid-under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch alternately before and after the marker-stitch, by either knitting or purling 2 together depending on the previous/next stitch in A.1.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neckline. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8½-9-7½-8-8 cm between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. A neckline is worked with short rows, the yoke continued before being divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle then divide piece for splits in each side and work each piece separately until finished measurements. The sleeves are worked in the round with circular needles/ double pointed needles.
The neck is folded double and sewn down to finish.
DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 69-73-75-79-81-87 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm, 1 strand DROPS Air and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk (3 strands). Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. At the end of the next 2 rows, cast on 6 band stitches = 81-85-87-91-93-99 stitches.
Continue the rib with the 7 outermost stitches on each side in garter stitch (bands).
Work until the neck measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm and the next row is from the right side.
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches.
NOTE: In size S, M, L and XXL each marker is placed in a purl stitch, seen from the right side; in size XL and XXXL each marker is placed in a knit stitch, seen frrom the right side – the stitches with a marker are now called raglan-stitches The raglan stitches are now knitted from the right side and purled from the wrong side.
Count 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches (front piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 15-19-21-19-19-23 stitches (back piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch. There are 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches left after the last marker (front piece).
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 4-8-2-0-4-0 stitches evenly as follows: Work past marker-1, decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 1 and 2 (do not decrease the raglan-stitches), decrease 0-4-2-0-0-0 stitches evenly between markers 2 and 3, decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 3 and 4, knit to end of row = 77-77-85-91-89-99 stitches.
There are 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4 (sleeves) and 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches between markers 2 and 3 (back piece).
NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 7 mm. Now work a neckline with short rows AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1, remembering to knit the 4 raglan-stitches from the right side and purl them from the wrong side. Work to 2 stitches past raglan-stitch 1 i (i.e., front left of neck when the garment is worn), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for RAGLAN on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches – read description above, work to 2 stitches past raglan-stitch 4 (i.e., front right of neck = 8 stitches increased), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work A.1 to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 1, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, work to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 4 (= 8 increased stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Work A.1 to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 1, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, work to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 4 (= 8 stitches increased), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 7 (wrong side). Work A.1 to the end of the row (the raglan-stitches are purled from the wrong side and the bands worked in garter stitch).
The short rows are finished and you have increase 3 times for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches = 101-101-109-115-113-123 stitches.
Work now the yoke as described below, from mid-front. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
YOKE:
Continue A.1 with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and the raglan-stitches knitted from the right side/purled from the wrong side. Continue to increase for raglan as follows:
Increase every 2nd row (each row from the right side) but every 2nd increase is only on the front/back pieces, i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd row, increase on the sleeves every 4th row (increase alternately 4 and 8 stitches). Increase like this 12-14-18-18-20-20 times on the front/back pieces and 6-7-9-9-10-10 times on the sleeves = 173-185-217-223-233-243 stitches.
The increases on the sleeves are finished. Continue to increase on the front/back pieces 4-4-0-1-2-3 more times = 189-201-217-227-241-255 stitches.
All increases are now finished.
Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 19-21-22-22-25-26 cm, measured after the neck mid-back.
Divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 55-59-63-65-71-77 stitches (back piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!
BODY:
= 137-145-153-163-177-195 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow them to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the split in each side.
Continue A.1 over all stitches with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the body measures 21-21-22-23-22-23 cm from the division, divide at both markers and finish each piece separately. The marker-stitches belong to each front piece.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the band) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows from the wrong side (from the side): 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off. You can use Italian cast off – see video under Tips and Help on our web page. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the band) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows from the wrong side (from mid-front): 7 band stitches in garter stitch * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the left front piece.
BACK PIECE:
= 61-65-69-75-81-91 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 18-20-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly spaced = 79-85-89-95-105-115 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the front pieces.
SLEEVES:
Place the 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-42-46-50-54-56 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue A.1 in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch before the marker – read DECREASE TIP. When the sleeve measures 12-12-8-6½-5-5 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch after the marker – remember DECREASE TIP. Continue to decrease like this (alternately before and after the marker) every 8-8-4-3-2-2 cm a total of 4-4-8-10-14-14 times (2-2-4-5-7-7 times before and 2-2-4-5-7-7 times after the marker) = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-35-35-36-34-32 cm from the division. Knit 1 round and increase 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches evenly spaced = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the body. The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-45-46-44-42 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and folding outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. Sew the openings mid-front on the bands, with small stitches.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
Diagram
|
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
|
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 299 catalogues and 11093 patterns - 11093 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
I modelli sono tantissimi e ben realizzati. Una sola osservazione: le foto vanno bene, ma sarebbe utile, visto che a volte ci sono più pose, vedere il capo di schiena e con le braccia sollevate per mostrare meglio le maniche e qualche dettaglio dello sprone, dello scollo, dei bordi.
07.09.2023 - 11:55Is dit vest te veranderen naar gewoon tricot steek in plaats van gerstekorrel?
01.09.2023 - 10:31DROPS Design answered:
Dag Aniek,
Ja, dat kan. Je zou gewoon tricotsteek kunnen brein in plaats van gerstekorrel. Maak wel altijd even een proeflapje en pas eventueel de naalddikte aan zodat de stekenverhouding overeen komt met die in het patroon.
04.09.2023 kl. 20:32En cours de réalisation, avec un fil fabel et alpaga, le motif facile mais beau
29.08.2023 - 15:27Pipermint
06.08.2023 - 16:18Sehr schön
06.08.2023 - 13:32Mooi
06.08.2023 - 11:18Sehr toll 😍
06.08.2023 - 09:52Sehr schöne Farbe :)
05.08.2023 - 08:47Easy
05.08.2023 - 08:17Evergreen
05.08.2023 - 01:09