DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Rain Chain

Knitted sweater in 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up with English rib, open garter stitch and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 236-9
DROPS Design: Pattern wi-054
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-110-122-130-142 cm = 38½"-41¾"-43⅜"-48"-51¼"-55¾"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g color 14, sea green

Or use:
DROPS Air from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color 45, northsea

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM = US 13: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM = US 13.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stockinette stitch with 1 strand DROPS
Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in sections, back and forth and bottom up, then sewn together. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle bottom up. The back piece is 8 cm = 3⅛" longer than the front.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 59-63-67-73-79-85 stitches with circular needle size 8 MM = US 11 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work rib as follows from the right side: 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 1 and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 10 cm = 4". Purl 1 row from the wrong side and decrease 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly spaced = 49-53-55-61-65-71 stitches. Change to circular needle size 9 MM = US 13. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Work A.1, 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in height.
Now work 1 row as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Work A.2 (first row from the wrong side, reading the diagram from left to right and the pattern beginning and ending with 1 knitted stitch in English rib inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, seen from the right side). Continue A.2 onwards.

When the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm = 16½"-17"-17¼"-17¾"-18"-18½", bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 43-47-49-55-59-65 stitches. Continue A.2. When the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼", purl the next row from the wrong side. Then work according to A.1. When the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½", bind off the middle 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 14-16-16-19-20-23 stitches on the shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜". Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back piece until the front measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13⅜"-13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"-15¼". Bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 43-47-49-55-59-65 stitches. Continue A.2. When the piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm = 14¼"-15"-15¾"-16½"-17¼"-18", purl the next row from the wrong side. Then work according to A.1. When the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18½"-19¼"-20"-21"-21⅝"-22½", work the neck as follows: Place the middle 9-9-11-11-13-13 stitches on a thread and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off for the neck every 2nd row as follows: 2 stitches 1 time, 1 stitch 1 time = 14-16-16-19-20-23 stitches on the shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼". Work the other shoulder in the same way.


SLEEVES:
Cast on 30-32-32-34-34-36 stitches with double pointed needles size 8 MM = US 11 and 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm = 4". Knit 1 round and decrease 3-3-3-3-3-3 stitches evenly spaced = 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches.Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13. Work A.1, 2 times in height then continue with stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 12 cm = 4¾", increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 5½-5½-5-4-3½-3½ cm = 2⅛"-2⅛"-2"-1½"-1¼"-1¼" a total of 7-7-7-8-9-9 times = 41-43-43-47-49-51 stitches. When the sleeve measures 43-42-42-40-39-37 cm = 17"-16½"-16½"-15¾"-15¼"-14½", continue with A.1. When the sleeve measures 49-48-48-46-45-43 cm = 19¼"-19"-19"-18"-17¾"-17", work the sleeve cap back and forth (from mid-under sleeve) to finished length. Bind off when the sleeve measures 52-51-51-49-48-46 cm = 20½"-20"-20"-19¼"-19"-18". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch and sew the bottom of the armholes – see sketch. Sew the side seams as far as the rib (= 10 cm = 4" split on the front piece, 18 cm = 7" on the back), sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.

NECK:
Start at the top of the right shoulder and knit up (including the stitches on the thread) 60 to 72 stitches with short circular needle size 8 MM = US 11 and 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. The number of stitches should be divisible by 2. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 20-20-20-22-22-22 cm = 8"-8"-8"-8¾"-8¾"-8¾". Bind off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.10.2022
SLEEVES:...= 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13. Work A.1, 2 times in height ...
Updated online: 05.04.2024
The pattern has been reviewed and updated. Correction under sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = 1 yarn over, slip purled stitch onto right needle as if to purl (from wrong side)
symbols = yarn over and knitted stitch knitted together (from right side)
symbols = sleeve cap sewn to armhole: a to A and b to B
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (115)

country flag Hanneke Spaans wrote:

Ik begrijp de zin niet Brei A.2 ( en het patroon begint en eindigt met 1 rechte steek in Patentsteek aan de binnenkant van 1 kantsteek in ribbelsteek, aan de goede kant gezien). Ga verder met A.2 in de hoogte.

14.07.2024 - 20:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hanneke,

Naast de kantsteek heb je 1 rechte steek. Die rechte steek maakt onderdeel uit van de patentsteek. De kantsteken brei je in ribbelsteken.

16.07.2024 - 18:20

country flag Heather wrote:

Totally confused with your A1 diagram . Do you mean knit from Right to left of diagram or from the right side of the jumper ??

04.07.2024 - 01:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Heather, first row in A.1 is worked bottom up starting from RS = knit 1 row from RS, knit 1 row from WS, knit 1 row from RS, knit 1 row from WS (2 ridges), knit 1 row from RS and purl 1 row from WS = you have worked the 6 rows A.1 (= 2 ridges + 2 rows stocking stitch). Hapy knitting!

04.07.2024 - 09:15

country flag Mitch wrote:

Totally confused with the A1 diagram . Do you mean knit from R side of the diagram to left or from the right side of the jumper ??

04.07.2024 - 01:20

country flag Louchart wrote:

Il me semble qu'il y a une erreur dans les côtes 1/1 en bas du pull.D’après le dessin, il faut des côtes de 18cm pour le dos et 10cm pour le devant.Or il est écrit 10cm pour le dos. Il doit y avoir 1 erreur dans les explications. Mais merci pour tous ces modèles. Cordialement Mme Louchart

24.06.2024 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Louchart, le schéma est juste, les côtes mesurent 10 cm pour le devant et le dos mais le dos est 8 cm plus long que le devant, vous faites la couture des côtés à partir des emmanchures jusqu'aux côtes du devant soit 10 cm de côtes devant + les 8 cm du bas du dos. Bon tricot!

25.06.2024 - 09:22

country flag Karen Laila wrote:

Drops 236-9. Model wi-054. Str. M\r\nHvor mange g i alt med Drops wish E\r\nHvor mange g i alt med Drops Air C\r\nForstår ikke 1 tråd eller 2 tråde\r\nOm det er ca. 10 nøgler eller 20 nøgler\r\nVh karen

27.05.2024 - 16:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karen, uanset om du strikker i DROPS Wish eller DROPS Air skal du bruge 10 nøgler i str M. Men hvis du strikker i DROPS Air, strikker du med 2 tråde samtidigt for at få den rigtige tykkelse :)

28.05.2024 - 10:25

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hallo Können Sie mir noch mal A1 Diagramm erklären.

09.05.2024 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, bei A.1 stricken Sie die 1. Reihe (Hinreihe) rechts, die 2. Reihe (Rückreihe) rechts, die 3. Reihe rechts, die 4. Reihe rechts, die 5. Reihe rechts un die 6. Reihe links. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

10.05.2024 - 08:58

country flag Caroline wrote:

Je suis fâchée! Je viens d'assembler les manches en me disant qu'elles n'étaient pas assez larges et pensant que c'était mon erreur et je découvre seulement maintenant la correction faite dernièrement: au lieu d'augmenter 5 fois aux 8 cm, il est maintenant indiqué d'augmenter 7 fois aux 5 cm, pour finir avec 43 mailles au lieu de 39. Bon, vous aurez peut-être envie de me répondre qu'il s'agit d'un patron gratuit, mais j'ai acheté pour + de 200$ de votre laine! :(

02.05.2024 - 23:39

country flag Jeanne wrote:

Dag mensen van DropsDesign, mooie trui, voor en achterpand zijn van verschillende lengte. Het patroon van ribbels en patentsteek loopt dan volgens mij niet mooi door. Klopt dat? Groetjes, Jeanne

08.04.2024 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jeanne,

Ja, dat klopt. Het achterpand is langer en de ribbels en patentsteek lopen ook langer door naar beneden. Zo heeft de ontwerper dit bedacht. Als je het mooier vindt om voor het achterpand een langere boord te maken in plaats van de ribbels en de patentsteek door te laten lopen, dan kan dat natuurlijk.

09.04.2024 - 21:10

country flag Ana wrote:

Estoy tejido el modelo 236-9 . Llegue e las mangas, pero no sé cómo hacer la copa de las mangas . Por favor me explican gracias.

20.03.2024 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana, no se trabaja de ninguna forma específica. Quiere decir que, para la copa de la manga, pasas a trabajar en filas, de ida y vuelta, en vez de en redondo, pero sigues trabajando como antes (con el patrón). Esto es necesario para ajustar correctamente la costura de la manga al cuerpo.

24.03.2024 - 23:20

country flag Ana wrote:

Hola, estoy tejiendo este modelo, llegue a las mangas pero no sé como tejer " la copa de la manga"? Me pueden explicar. Mil gracias.

18.03.2024 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana, no se trabaja de ninguna forma específica. Quiere decir que, para la copa de la manga, pasas a trabajar en filas, de ida y vuelta, en vez de en redondo, pero sigues trabajando como antes (con el patrón). Esto es necesario para ajustar correctamente la costura de la manga al cuerpo.

24.03.2024 - 22:51