Rain Chain by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up with English rib, open garter stitch and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 236-9
DROPS Design: Pattern wi-054
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-110-122-130-142 cm = 38 1/2"-41 3/4"-43 3/8"-48"-51 1/4"-55 3/4"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g color 14, sea green

Or use:
DROPS Air from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color 45, northsea

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM = US 13: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM = US 13.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stockinette stitch with 1 strand DROPS
Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
DROPS Wish natural DROPS Wish natural 6.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Wish uni colour DROPS Wish uni colour 6.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Wish mix DROPS Wish mix 6.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.05$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in sections, back and forth and bottom up, then sewn together. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle bottom up. The back piece is 8 cm = 3 1/8" longer than the front.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 59-63-67-73-79-85 stitches with circular needle size 8 MM = US 11 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work rib as follows from the right side: 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 1 and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 10 cm = 4”. Purl 1 row from the wrong side and decrease 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly spaced = 49-53-55-61-65-71 stitches. Change to circular needle size 9 MM = US 13. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Work A.1, 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in height.
Now work 1 row as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Work A.2 (first row from the wrong side, reading the diagram from left to right and the pattern beginning and ending with 1 knitted stitch in English rib inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, seen from the right side). Continue A.2 onwards.

When the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm = 16 1/2"-17"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18"-18 1/2", bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 43-47-49-55-59-65 stitches. Continue A.2. When the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4", purl the next row from the wrong side. Then work according to A.1. When the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2", bind off the middle 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 14-16-16-19-20-23 stitches on the shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8". Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back piece until the front measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4". Bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 43-47-49-55-59-65 stitches. Continue A.2. When the piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm = 14 1/4"-15"-15 3/4"-16 1/2"-17 1/4"-18", purl the next row from the wrong side. Then work according to A.1. When the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2", work the neck as follows: Place the middle 9-9-11-11-13-13 stitches on a thread and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off for the neck every 2nd row as follows: 2 stitches 1 time, 1 stitch 1 time = 14-16-16-19-20-23 stitches on the shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Work the other shoulder in the same way.


SLEEVES:
Cast on 30-32-32-34-34-36 stitches with double pointed needles size 8 MM = US 11 and 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm = 4”. Knit 1 round and decrease 3-3-3-3-3-3-3 stitches evenly spaced = 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches.Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13. Work A.1, 2 times in height then continue with stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 12 cm = 4 3/4", increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 9-8-8-7½-7½-7½ cm = 3 1/2"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 7/8"-2 7/8"-2 7/8" a total of 5 times = 37-39-39-41-41-43 stitches. When the sleeve measures 43-42-42-40-39-37 cm = 17"-16 1/2"-16 1/2"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-14 1/2", continue with A.1. When the sleeve measures 49-48-48-46-45-43 cm = 19 1/4"-19"-19"-18"-17 3/4"-17", work the sleeve cap back and forth (from mid-under sleeve) to finished length. Bind off when the sleeve measures 52-51-51-49-48-46 cm = 20 1/2"-20"-20"-19 1/4"-19"-18". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch and sew the bottom of the armholes – see sketch. Sew the side seams as far as the rib (= 10 cm = 4” split on the front piece, 18 cm = 7" on the back), sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.

NECK:
Start at the top of the right shoulder and knit up (including the stitches on the thread) 60 to 72 stitches with short circular needle size 8 MM = US 11 and 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. The number of stitches should be divisible by 2. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 20-20-20-22-22-22 cm = 8"-8"-8"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4". Bind off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.10.2022
SLEEVES:...= 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13. Work A.1, 2 times in height ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = 1 yarn over, slip purled stitch onto right needle as if to purl (from wrong side)
symbols = yarn over and knitted stitch knitted together (from right side)
symbols = sleeve cap sewn to armhole: a to A and b to B
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 236-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (90)

country flag Valerie wrote:

Bonjour Sur votre schéma A2 le jeté n est fait que sur l envers du travail mais lorsque l’on regarde la vidéo des côtes anglaises, le jeté est fait à l’envers mais aussi à l’endroit Pouvez vous me confirmer que pour ce modèle nous ne devons faire les jetés que à l.envers svp Merci par avance Bien cordialement Valérie

29.11.2023 - 06:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, dans la vidéo, on tricote entièrement en côtes anglaises, dans A.2 ici, on tricote alternativement 1 maille en côtes anglaise, 1 maile jersey envers; autrement dit, le 1er rang de A.2 se tricote sur l'envers (= 1 jeté, on glisse 1 m à l'envers, puis 1 maille endroit) et, au 2ème rang, on tricote (le jeté et la m glissée ensemble à l'endroit + 1 maille envers). Bon tricot!

29.11.2023 - 08:28

country flag Thouvenin wrote:

Bonjour, ce modèle est très joli ! Merci, mais je ne comprends pas vos mesures de hauteur qui ne sont pas les mêmes dans les explications pour le devant, le dos et le diagramme : avant les emmanchures 42-43 pour le dos, 34-35 pour les devant et 54-20=34 sur le diagramme et avant l'encolure 60-62 pour le dos, 47-49 pour le devant. Il me semble qu'il y a une erreur des mesures pour le dos. Merci pour vos réponses Cordialement Marie

27.11.2023 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thouvenin, le dos est 8 cm plus long que le devant, raison pour laquelle les mesures sont différentes. Bon tricot!

28.11.2023 - 08:54

country flag Flavia Fiorini wrote:

Non riesco a capire come fare l'arrotondamento degli scafi delle maniche in piano... non c'è un tutorial .,!?

19.11.2023 - 23:50

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Flavia, alla lunghezza indicata smette di lavorare in tondo e inizia a lavorare in piano dal centro sotto la manica. Buon lavoro!

22.11.2023 - 18:10

country flag Regina wrote:

Ich habe leider lange gebraucht die verwirrende Beschreibung zu verstehen, erst war die Rede von Patent, dann von falschem Patent, aber Halbpatent, darum handelt es sich ja, kommt leider nicht vor!

07.11.2023 - 22:03

country flag Dorte Frandsen wrote:

Opskriften trænger til at blive gennemgået. Starten på for- og bagstykke er angivet som ens, men bagstykket skal jo være længere end forstykket (hvilket man faktisk kun kan opdage ved at kigge på målskemaet), og ærmerne passer ikke i størrelserne. Det er en pæn trøje, men det er ærlig talt lidt af en udfordring at få delene til at passe sammen

31.10.2023 - 10:03

country flag Helena wrote:

No se como seguir cuando empieza el diagrama A2, no me sale el dibujo como en la foto. Empieza por el lado revés con un punto derecho de orillo y se lee el diagrama de izquierda a derecha, luego, por el lado derecho, ¿Se continúan tejiendo un punto derecho de orillo? ¿La siguiente línea del diagrama A2 se lee de derecha a izquierda? En el lado derecho se tejen juntos de derecho la lazada y el punto derecho y el punto que habíamos deslizado de revés se teje como punto revés, ¿No?

28.10.2023 - 21:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Helena, sí, las filas por el lado derecho del diagrama se leen de derecha a izquierda; puedes ver más información aquí:https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=68&cid=23. Sigues trabajando el punto orillo a cada lado, que se trabaja de derecho en todas las filas. En la fila por el lado derecho trabajas el punto deslizado en la fila anterior junto con la lazada y el punto trabajado de derecho en la fila anterior se trabaja de revés.

29.10.2023 - 23:16

country flag Waltraud Bausch wrote:

Hallo guten Tag, gibt es die Anleitung auch auf deutsch? Freundliche Grüße Waltraud Bausch

26.10.2023 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bausch, ja sicher, klicken Sie auf dem dropdown menu um die Sprache zu ändern. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.10.2023 - 08:10

country flag Mareike wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, bei den Ärmeln ab 12cm Länge zunehmen - ist das 2cm nach dem Rippenbündchen (also 12cm inklusive der Rippen) oder 12cm ab dem Rippenbündchen?

25.10.2023 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mareike, messen Sie ab der Anschlagskante, dh inklusive der Rippen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.10.2023 - 06:54

country flag Iolanda wrote:

Potreste mettere il video tutorial di questo maglione ,grazie ci spero tanto

25.10.2023 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Iolanda, non ci sono video tutorial per il capo intero, ma dei video per le diverse tecniche utili per realizzarlo. Buon lavoro!

25.10.2023 - 21:07

country flag Nancy Manion wrote:

Just double checking the length of the sleeves. Is it correct that the xlg size would have a finished sleeve length of 19" yet the small size has a finished length of 20 1/2" ? Seems odd that a smaller size would have a longer sleeve.

22.10.2023 - 22:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nancy, the sleeve is shorter in the larger sizes due to having wider shoulders; the wider the shoulder the shorter the sleeve. Happy knitting!

23.10.2023 - 00:39

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