Pink Lemonade Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Melody. The piece is worked top down, with multi-colored pattern, round yoke and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 231-56
DROPS Design: Pattern ml-085
Yarn group D

S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-108-126-126-142-148 cm = 38 1/2"-42 1/2"-49 1/2"-49 1/2"-55 3/4"-58 3/8"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
100-150-150-150-150-150 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color 14, vanilla
50-50-50-50-100-100 g color 03, pearl grey
50-50-50-50-100-100 g color 06, powder pink
50-50-50-50-100-100 g color 17, hot pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

14 stitches in width and 16 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 6.35 $ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 6.35 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.10$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



See diagram A.1. The pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tight when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

DECREASE TIP (mid-under sleeves):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).




The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round.
The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

Cast on 72-72-72-78-84-84 stitches with color pearl grey DROPS Melody, using a short 4.5 MM = US 7 and a short 6 MM = US 10 circular needle held together.
Pull out the needle size 6 MM = US 10 and continue with size 4.5 MM = US 7 (this makes the cast-on edge elastic).
Work rib in the round (knit 3, purl 3) for 14 cm = 5 1/2".
Fold the neck double to the inside – work the next round of rib as before, working every other stitch together with every other stitch on the cast-on edge.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (mid-front); the yoke is measured from this marker!

Change to circular needle size 6 MM = US 10. Knit 1 round where you increase 8-8-18-12-26-26 stitches evenly spaced = 80-80-90-90-110-110 stitches. Knit 0-1-3-3-3-4 rounds with color pearl grey. Then work A.1 over all stitches – read KNITTING TIP! Increase as shown in the diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue A.1 until the yoke measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm = 8 3/4"-9 1/2"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12 1/2" from the marker. The final increase has been worked and there are 208-208-234-234-286-286 stitches.
Now divide for the body and sleeves – NOTE: A.1 is continued on the body and sleeves.
Work A.1 as before over the first 39-39-39-39-52-52 stitches (approx. half back piece), place the next 39-39-39-39-52-52 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-10-10-10-8-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work A.1 as before over the next 65-65-78-78-91-91 stitches (front piece), place the next 39-39-39-39-52-52 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-10-10-10-8-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the last 26-26-39-39-39-39 stitches on the back piece. Cut the strand. The body and sleeves are finished separately.

= 138-150-176-176-198-206 stitches.
Start the round in the middle of the 4-10-10-10-8-12 stitches under the sleeve and continue A.1 in the round – the pattern will not fit under the sleeves; continue it as far as it will go.
When A.1 has been completed, continue with stockinette stitch and color off white until the body measures 17 cm = 6 3/4" from the division.
Knit 1 round where you increase 6-6-10-10-6-10 stitches evenly spaced = 144-156-186-186-204-216 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Work rib (knit 3, purl 3) for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sweater measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from the shoulder.

Place the 39-39-39-39-52-52 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-10-10-10-8-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 43-49-49-49-60-64 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue A.1 in the round – it will not fit under the sleeve.
When A.1 is finished, continue with stockinette stitch and color off white.
AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2", decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 12-6-6-7-4-3 cm = 4 3/4"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-1 1/2"-1 1/8" a total of 3-5-5-4-6-7 times = 37-39-39-41-48-50 stitches.
Work until the sleeve measures 33-32-31-29-27-26 cm = 13"-12 1/2"-12 1/4"-11 3/8"-10 5/8"-10 1/4".
Knit 1 round where you adjust the number of stitches to 36-36-42-42-48-52 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7. Work rib (knit 3, purl 3) for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 43-42-41-39-37-26 cm = 17"-16 1/2"-16 1/8"-15 1/4"-14 1/2"-10 1/4". Work the other sleeve in the same way.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = pearl grey
symbols = powder pink
symbols = hot pink
symbols = vanilla
symbols = off white
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 231-56) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Birgit Dirksen wrote:

Jeg har fulgt mønstret og derved taget 4 nye masker ud under ærmet i hver side. Begynder mønstret herefter i hvidt garn på den første m af de to nye m i hver side, eller strikkes de i det gule garn, Bliver spidsen i mønstret forskudt 2 m i forhold til det strikket mønster? Vh. Birgit Dirksen.

27.03.2023 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgit, Mønsteret skal stemme over mønsteret så langt det går, de masker som ikke går op strikkes i natur :)

12.04.2023 kl. 14:57

country flag Sylvia wrote:

Die Maschenprobe: Mit welcher Nadelstärke sollte die denn gestrickt sein: 6 oder 4.5? Danke.

18.01.2023 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Silvia, die Maschenprobe wird mit die grösseren Nadeln, die Nr 6 - gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.01.2023 kl. 10:44

country flag Miz wrote:

Bonjour Sous la manche en rajoutant des mailles, le diagramme A1 n’est plus respecté. Comment faut il faire ? Merci !

17.12.2022 - 19:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Miz, tricotez autant de mailles que possible en suivant le motif en début de rang et en fin de rang, autrement dit, en commençant au milieu sous la manche, calculez d'après la 1ère maille de A.1 comment tricoter les nouvelles mailles montées sous la manche et tricotez jusqu'au marqueur sur l'autre côté, puis reprenez l'autre moitié de l'ouvrage. Vous ferez de même pour les manches (il y aura une démarcation car le motif ne tombe pas juste). Bon tricot!

19.12.2022 kl. 09:09

country flag Manetsch wrote:

Sind die Massangaben für die Aermel korrekt? Es kann doch nicht sein, dass für kleinste Grösse der Aermel viel länger ist als für die grösste Grösse. Ich stricke Grösse S.

25.11.2022 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Manetsch, doch schon, denn die Passe ist länger in die grösseren Größen; aber gerne vergleichen Sie die Maßen von einem ähnlichen Pullover, den Sie gerne tragen und vor Bündchen Pullover anziehen um die Länge zu prüfen; so können Sie auch die Ärmellänge genauso anpassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2022 kl. 08:48

country flag Andreea wrote:

Hi, Thanks for the usefull answers received till now:) When starting working the body from the undersleaves, since pattern is not matching under the arms, how it will look from the side? When dividing i'm allready starting the last colour in the patern, off white in your model here. is it ok?

02.11.2022 - 19:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Andrea, work as many stitches as you can in the pattern towards the side, ie until mid under sleeve, then start again working pattern so that it fits the 2nd half of piece - the pattern won't fit mid under sleeve, as if there were a seam. Happy knitting!

03.11.2022 kl. 09:43

country flag Pia wrote:

Hvor meget garn skal jeg bruge, hvis jeg vil strikke blusen ensfarvet og findes der andre garntyper der kan bruges?

17.09.2022 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pia. Vi har desverre ikke modellen lengre, slik at vi får veid den. Men tipper du vil trenge 250 gram til str S, 300 gram til str. M og L, 350 gram til str. Xl og XXL og 400 gram til str. str. XXXL. Du kan prøve å strikke den med 2 tråder DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk eller 2 tråder DROPS Sky. Eller 3 tråder DROPS Kid-Silk. Men husk å strikke en prøvelapp for å få den oppgitte strikkefastheten. mvh DROPS Design

19.09.2022 kl. 12:00

country flag Mirjam wrote:

Mijn werk is nu 18 cm vanaf de markeerdraad. Ben net begonnen met de 1e toer waarin de kleur vanille wordt aangehecht. Op de foto lijkt vanille pas veel later te beginnen, nadat de steken voor de mouwen apart zijn gezet. Het lijkt dus alsof mijn patroon veel korter uitvalt dan op de foto. Als dit zo is, moet ik straks veel meer wit aan de onderkant breien en ik het evenwicht uit het patroon. Doe ik iets niet goed?

22.08.2022 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Het werk wordt gescheiden voor het lijf en de mouwen vlak nadat de laatste meerdering in A.1 is gemaakt. Die maak je dus vlak nadat je begonnen bent met vanille. Deze kleur loopt dus na de scheiding verder. Maar je zou dus al meer lengte moeten hebben. Klopt je stekenverhouding in de hoogte wel met de stekenverhouding die aangegeven is in het patroon?

23.08.2022 kl. 19:17

country flag Susan wrote:

Do you think short rows at the back are necessary for this pattern?

18.07.2022 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, no, this kind of pattern does not necessarily need the back piece to be shaped using short rows. But of course, if you want, feel free to use them! Happy knitting!

18.07.2022 kl. 16:36

country flag Karen Lütge wrote:

Hallo, ich habe den oberen Teil fertig und teile gerade die Maschen für Rumpf und Ärmel auf. Ich habe zuvor nach der letzten Zunahme noch eine Reihe gestrickt. Jetzt teile ich bei 39 Maschen mitten im Muster. Kann das richtig sein? Wo soll ich die 4 Maschen anschlagen? Liebe Grüße, Karen

29.06.2022 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Lütge, diese Lektion zeigt ab Bild 9 wie man die Maschen für die Ärmel stilllegt und wie man die neuen Maschen unter den Ärmeln anschlägt - nach der Verteilung wird das Muster nicht mehr in der Runde anpassen, nun stricken Sie dann soviele Maschen wie möglich bis an beiden Seiten (A.1 stricken Sie wie zuvor weiter über Rücken- und Vorderteile). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.06.2022 kl. 09:16

country flag Gerda wrote:

In het patroon staat dat naalddikte 6 wordt gebruikt. De informatie bij de wol gaat uit van naalddikte 8. Vanwege het grote verschil, vraag ik mij af of dit wel klopt.

13.05.2022 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gerda,

De aangegeven naalddikte in het patroon klopt. Het breiwerk van dit model heeft een andere, dichtere stekenverhouding dan de standaard stekenverhouding van DROPS Melody.

14.05.2022 kl. 09:54

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 231-56

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.