Bellflower Dress by DROPS Design

Knitted dress for babies and children in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and lace pattern. Sizes 0 - 4 years.

Keywords: assembly free, dress, lace, round neck, round yoke, set, short sleeves, top down

DROPS Baby 43-11
DROPS Design: Pattern z-111-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)
Child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Child’s height in feet:
1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 48-52-54-60 (66-68) cm = 19"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-23 5/8" (26"-26 3/4")
Full length: 36-40-44-48 (50-54) cm = 14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19" (19 3/4"-21 1/4")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200-200 (200-250) g color 4010, light lavender

DROPS BUTTONS NO 600: 2 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60-60-60-80-(80-80) cm = 24”-24”-24”-32”-(32”-32”).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca

from 4.85 $ /50g

Order

	DROPS Alpaca uni colour	4.85 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix	5.10 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.55$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for skirt):
Increase alternately before and after each marker (i.e. the first increase is before each marker, the second after each marker, etc.).
INCREASE 1 STITCH BEFORE EACH MARKER:
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, make 1 yarn over.
INCREASE 1 STITCH AFTER EACH MARKER:
Work to the marker, make 1 yarn over.
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the left band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side inside 1 stitch as follows: Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures 1½-2 cm = 1/2"-3/4". The second buttonhole when the piece measures 5-6 cm = 2"-2 3/8".

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down, back and forth until the split is finished mid-back. Then you continue in the round. The yoke is divided for the skirt and sleeve-edges and the skirt is continued in the round. The sleeve edges are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 71-77-83-89 (95-95) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and DROPS Alpaca.
Work 5 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 stitches in garter stitch.
Work this rib back and forth for 1 cm = 3/8". Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5.

YOKE:
Work the next row from the right side as follows:
5 stitches in garter stitch, A.1, work A.2 20-22-24-26 (28-28) times and 5 stitches in garter stitch. Work the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
When A.1 and A.2 have been worked in height there are 131-143-155-167 (179-179) stitches.
The piece measures approx. 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2".
Continue with pattern as follows:
5 stitches in garter stitch, A.3, work A.4 19-21-23-25 (27-27) times, A.5 and 5 stitches in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! On the last row in A.3 to A.5 increase 0-0-0-0 (0-10) stitches evenly spaced.
When A.3 to A.5 have been worked in height there are 191-209-227-245 (263-273) stitches.
The piece measures approx. 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm = 4"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4".
On the next row from the right side, bind off the first 5 stitches and knit to the end of the row = 186-204-222-240 (258-268) stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch in the round. Move the start of the round 3 stitches so it is mid-back.
When the piece measures 11-11-12-13 (14-15) cm = 4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" (5 1/2"-6"), divide for the skirt and sleeves as follows:
Knit 26-29-30-34 (37-39), place the next 40-44-50-52 (54-56) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4 stitches under the sleeve, knit 53-58-61-68 (75-78), place the next 40-44-50-52 (54-56) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4 stitches under the sleeve, knit the last 27-29-31-34 (38-39) stitches.

SKIRT:
= 114-124-130-144 (158-164) stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round for a further 3 cm = 1 1/8".
Insert 8 markers as follows:
Knit 7-7-8-9 (10-10), insert 1 marker, * knit 14-15-16-18 (19-20), insert 1 marker, knit 14-16-16-18 (20-21), insert 1 marker *, work from *-* 2 more times, knit 15-16-17-18 (20-20), insert 1 marker and knit 8-8-9-9 (11-11).
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards.
On the next round increase 1 stitch before each marker – read INCREASE TIP!
Increase like this every 4th-4th-5th-5th (6th-6th) round a total of 9-10-11-12 (12-13) times = 186-204-218-240 (254-268) stitches.
When the skirt measures 14-18-21-24 (25-28) cm = 5 1/2"-7"-8 1/4"-9 1/2" (9 3/4"-11") from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-6-0 (2-4) stitches evenly spaced = 192-208-224-240 (256-272) stitches.
Then work A.6 on the round. When A.6 is finished there are 288-312-336-360 (384-408) stitches.
Bind off with knit. The dress measures approx. 36-40-44-48 (50-54) cm = 14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19" (19 3/4"-21 1/4") from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE-EDGES:
Place the 40-44-50-52 (54-56) stitches from the thread on one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 44-48-54-56 (58-60) stitches.
Work stockinette stitch in the round for 1-1-1-2-2-2 cm = 3/8"-3/8"-3/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4". Knit 1 round where you increase 4-3-3-4 (5-6) stitches evenly spaced = 48-51-57-60 (63-66) stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
Work rib (knit 1, purl 2). Bind off with knit when the sleeve-edge measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2"-2"-2".
Work the other sleeve-edge in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the right band (the bind-off band) under the left band and sew down.
Sew the buttons onto the right band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= work 7 stitches in the same stitch: Knit 1, but do not slip the stitch from the left needle, * work 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch , work from -* 2 more times and slip the stitch from the left needle; the yarn overs are NOT worked twisted on the next row/round,
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid holes.
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
	= work 4 stitches in the same stitch: Knit 1, but do not slip the stitch from the left needle, work 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch, 1 yarn over and slip the stitch from the left needle; the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid holes,
	= work 3 stitches in the same stitch: Knit 1, but do not slip the stitch from the left needle, work 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch and slip the stitch from the left needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 43-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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