Mountain Frill Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with ¾ sleeves in DROPS Nord. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke and lace pattern on yoke. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no-053
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 86-94-102-112-124-136 cm = 33 7/8"-37"-40"-44"-48 3/4"-53 1/2"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color 01, off white

DROPS BUTTON NO 600: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length: 80 cm = 32”
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.15 $ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 2.15 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 137 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 12 stitches) , and divide the remaining 125 stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 46) = 2.7.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch (do not increase over bands). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
To decrease in this example knit approx. every 2nd and 3rd stitch together.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn).
1 buttonhole = work from right side as before until 4 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, work 4 stitches in garter stitch. Turn, work 4 stitches in garter stitch, knit yarn over together with next stitch to make a hole, work as before.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½ to 2 cm = 1/2" to 3/4". Then decrease the next 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 8-8½-7½-7-8-8½ cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/4"-2 7/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/4" apart.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 137-143-147-153-157-163 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 with DROPS Nord. Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Then work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): 6 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, purl 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read explanation above.
When rib is done, knit 1 row from right side while at the same time increasing 46-48-52-56-60-62 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 183-191-199-209-217-225 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work bands in garter stitch). Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5.
Insert 1 marker after band at beginning of row mid front, measure yoke from this marker!
Work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 6 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front until piece measures 2-2-3-3-4-5 cm = 3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-2" from marker. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 46-46-54-60-60-60 stitches evenly = 229-237-253-269-277-285 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work bands in garter stitch). Then work pattern - read explanation under.

PATTERN:
Work first row as follows from right side: 6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 27-28-30-32-33-34 times in total, work first stitch in A.1 so that pattern begins and ends the same, finish with 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this.
AT THE SAME TIME on every row marked with arrow in A.1 increase stitches evenly as explained below - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-40-44-50-54-60 stitches = 265-277-297-319-331-345 stitches (make sure to distribute increases so that they do not disturb the pattern).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-45-49-51-60-67 stitches = 307-322-346-370-391-412 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 18-27-35-43-54-57 stitches evenly = 325-349-381-413-445-469 stitches (there is now room for 39-42-46-50-54-57 repetitions with A.1).
Arrow-4: Increase 12-20-20-28-28-40 stitches evenly = 337-369-401-441-473-509 stitches.
When A.1 has been worked, work in stockinette stitch without increases with 6 band stitches in garter stitch in each side.

Work until piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 7 1/2"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8" from marker by the neck.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves and work last round as follows: Work 53-58-62-68-74-81 stitches as before (front piece), slip the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), work 95-105-113-125-137-151 stitches in stockinette stitch (back piece), slip the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), and work 53-58-62-68-74-81 stitches as before (front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 217-237-257-281-309-337 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 6 band stitches in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 21 cm = 8 1/4" from division, knit 1 row from right side while increasing 22-24-26-28-30-34 stitches evenly = 239-261-283-309-339-371 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Then work a rib as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, purl 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= right side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain stitches on needle, knit 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2". Loosely bind off. Jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" from shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches from thread in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
Begin round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When piece measures 2 cm = 3/4" from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm = 3/4"-3/4"-1/2"-1/2"-1/2"-1/2" 4-5-8-9-9-9 times in total = 68-72-76-82-88-92 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 22-21-19-18-16-15 cm = 8 3/4"-8 1/4"-7 1/2"-7"-6 1/4"-6" from division. 4 cm = 1 1/2" remain until finished measurements. Try the jacket and work to desired length before edge.
Knit 1 round while decreasing 8-10-12-14-16-16 stitches evenly - REMEMBER INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 60-62-64-68-72-76 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work rib (knit 1 twisted/purl 1) for 2 cm = 3/4".
Knit 1 round while doubling the number of stitches by making 1 yarn over after every stitch the entire round = 120-124-128-136-144-152 stitches. Switch to a short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work 4 rounds in stockinette stitch (on first round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes).
Bind off with double yarn. Sleeve measures approx. 26-25-23-22-20-19 cm = 10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9"-8 3/4"-8"-7 1/2" from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = in the stitch below this stitch knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased)
symbols = from wrong side: purl 3
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked (2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked (2 stitches decreased)
symbols = increase row
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 230-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

country flag Doris wrote:

Danke für das schöne Muster. Ich habe die Jacke in der Baby Merino mit langen Ärmeln gestrickt, sie ist wunderschön geworden. Bitte weiter so schöne Anleitungen, so macht stricken richtig Spaß!

17.07.2022 - 09:45

country flag Kristina Dahlberg wrote:

Vid oket stämmer inte A1. Det blir en maska över när man stickat A1 sina 27 gånger. Totala maskantalet (229st) stämmer dock. Hur avslutar jag varvet på ett snyggt sätt och samtidigt har 229 maskor?

16.07.2022 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kristina, såg du det i kursiv stil: A.1 stickas totalt 27-28-30-32-33-34 gånger, sticka första maskan i A.1 så att mönstret börjar och slutar likadant,

02.08.2022 kl. 15:15

country flag Anne Von Uden wrote:

Mooi patroon!

01.05.2022 - 08:55

country flag Anne Von Uden wrote:

Leveren jullie ook in Duitsland? Kan ik op rekening betalen? Is het mogelijk om wol te gebruiken wanneer in een patroon staat dat er katoen wordt gebruikt? vr.gr. anne

01.05.2022 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anne,

Jazeker, er zijn ook verkooppunten in Duitsland. Voor de voorwaarden kun je het beste even contact opnemen met de winkel waar je de garens koopt. Wij verkopen zelf geen garens via de site. Dat gaat allemaal via onze verkooppunten. Via deze link vind je een lijst met verkooppunten in Duitsland.

04.05.2022 kl. 09:04

country flag Purlyplatypus wrote:

Joy of spring

14.01.2022 - 07:25

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