Campers Comfort by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Piece is knitted with collar, pockets and vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 228-39
DROPS design: Pattern no AB-122
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-110-124-136-144 cm = 37 3/4"-41"-43 3/8"-48 3/4"-53 1/2"-56 1/2"
Full length: 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm = 25 1/2"-26 3/8"-27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4"-29 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color 5110, light grey
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
175-200-200-225-250-275 g color 02, light grey

DROPS METAL BUTTON, ROUND (steel), NO 542: 5 pieces for all sizes

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length: 80 cm = 32”
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 60 cm = 24”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 MM = US 11 - for collar.

KNITTING GAUGE:
13 stitches in width and 17 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4” (= jacket).
10 stitches in width and 13.5 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 2 strands of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4” (= collar).
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 4.15 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 4.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 4.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.35 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.35 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 61 stitches) , and divide stitches by number of decreases/increases to be done (e.g. 7) = 8.7.
In this example make 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 8th and 9th stitch. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
If decreasing knit in this example approx. alternately every 7th and 8th stitch and every 8th and 9th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to under sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to collar):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat at the next marker thread. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit fourth and fifth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 16, 26, 36, 46 and 56 cm = 6 1/4", 10 1/4", 14 1/4", 18" and 22"
M: 18, 28, 38, 48 and 58 cm = 7", 11", 15", 19" and 22 3/4"
L: 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 cm = 8", 11 3/4", 15 3/4", 19 3/4" and 23 5/8"
XL: 20, 30, 41, 51 and 62 cm = 8", 11 3/4", 16 1/8", 20" and 24 3/8"
XXL: 21, 32, 42, 52 and 63 cm = 8 1/4", 12 1/2", 16 1/2", 20 1/2" and 24 3/4"
XXXL: 22, 33, 44, 54 and 65 cm = 8 3/4", 13", 17 1/4", 21 1/4" and 25 1/2"

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn together when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 69-75-78-87-96-102 stitches on circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work an edge as follows (first row = right side):
Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, A.1 until 2 stitches remain, work first stitch in A.1 so that the pattern is the same in each side, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth until 6 rows with pattern have been worked.
Now work next row from right side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 3 stitches, knit the next 61-67-70-79-88-94 stitches and decrease at the same time 7-7-6-7-8-8 stitches evenly – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, work the first 3 stitches in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 62-68-72-80-88-94 stitches.
Work 1 row from wrong side with pattern as before over the 4 stitches in each side, and purl the remaining stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue back and forth with pattern over the 4 stitches in each side and work in stockinette stitch over the remaining stitch until piece measures 21 cm = 8 1/4", at the same time on the last 2 rows cast on 1 stitch at the end of each row (= edge stitches) = 64-70-74-82-90-96 stitches.
Now work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm = 18 1/2"-19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-20 1/2", bind off 4-5-6-6-6-7 stitches for armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 56-60-62-70-78-82 stitches.
In sizes S, M and L continue to work from ALL SIZES below, and in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL work as follows:
Work pattern as before, at the same time bind off stitches for armholes at beginning of every row in each side as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1-2-2 times = 66-70-74 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm = 24 3/4"-25 1/2"-26 3/8"-27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4", bind off the middle 12-12-14-14-14-16 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Then bind off 1 stitch on next row from the neck = 21-23-23-25-27-28 stitches remain for shoulder.
When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm = 25 1/2"-26 3/8"-27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4"-29 1/2", bind off.
Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 42-45-48-51-57-60 stitches on circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work an edge as follows (first row = right side): Work A.2 over the first 7 stitches (= band), work A.1 until 2 stitches remain, work first stitch in A.1 so that the pattern is the same in each side, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth until 6 rows with pattern have been worked. Now work next row from right side as follows:
Work A.2 over the first 7 stitches (= band), knit the next 31-34-37-40-46-49 stitches while at the same time decreasing 4-4-5-4-6-6 stitches evenly, work the last 4 stitches as before = 38-41-43-47-51-54 stitches.
Work 1 row from wrong side with pattern as before over the outermost 4 stitches towards the side and the 7 stitches for band.
Continue back and forth with A.2 over the first 7 stitches and pattern as before over the last 4 stitches and work in stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches on row. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
When piece measures 21 cm = 8 1/4", cast on 1 stitch at the end of next row from right side (= edge stitch) = 39-42-44-48-52-55 stitches.
Now work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and A.2 as before over the 7 stitches for band.
When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm = 18 1/2"-19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-20 1/2", bind off 4-5-6-6-6-7 stitches at the beginning of next row from wrong side = 35-37-38-42-46-48 stitches.
In sizes S, M and L continue to work from ALL SIZES below, and in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL work as follows:
Work pattern as before, at the same time bind off stitches for armholes at beginning of every row from wrong side as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1-2-2 times = 40-42-44 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue to work until piece measures 58-60-62-64-65-67 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-25 1/2"-26 3/8".
Now work next row from right side as follows:
Bind off the first 7 stitches for neck, then continue back and forth while at the same time binding off stitches for next on every row from the neck: Bind off 2 stitches 3-3-4-4-4-4 times and 1 stitch 1-1-0-0-0-1 time = 21-23-23-25-27-28 stitches remain for shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm = 25 1/2"-26 3/8"-27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4"-29 1/2".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 42-45-48-51-57-60 stitches on circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work an edge as follows (first row = right side):
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until 8 stitches remain, work first stitch in A.1 so that the pattern is the same in each side, work A.3 over the last 7 stitches (= band). Continue back and forth until 6 rows with pattern have been worked. Now work next row from right side as follows:
Work pattern as before over the first 4 stitches, knit the next 31-34-37-40-46-49 stitches while at the same time decreasing 4-4-5-4-6-6 stitches evenly, work A.3 over the last 7 stitches = 38-41-43-47-51-54 stitches.
Purl 1 row with pattern as before over the 7 stitches for band and over the 4 stitches towards the side.
Continue back and forth with pattern over the first 4 stitches and the last 7 stitches and work in stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches on row.
When piece measures 21 cm = 8 1/4", cast on 1 stitch at the end of next row from wrong side (= edge stitch) = 39-42-44-48-52-55 stitches.
Now work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and A.3 as before over the 7 stitches for band.
When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm = 18 1/2"-19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-20 1/2”, bind off 4-5-6-6-6-7 stitches at the beginning of next row from right side = 35-37-38-42-46-48 stitches.
In sizes S, M and L continue to work from ALL SIZES below, and in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL work as follows:
Work pattern as before, at the same time bind off stitches for armholes at beginning of every row from right side as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1-2-2 times = 40-42-44 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue to work until piece measures 58-60-62-64-65-67 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-25 1/2"-26 3/8".
Now work next row from wrong side as follows:
Bind off the first 7 stitches for neck, then continue back and forth while at the same time binding off stitches for next on every row from the neck: Bind off 2 stitches 3-3-4-4-4-4 times and 1 stitch 1-1-0-0-0-1 time = 21-23-23-25-27-28 stitches remain for shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm = 25 1/2"-26 3/8"-27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4"-29 1/2".

SLEEVES:
Cast on 41-44-44-44-47-47 stitches on circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work pattern as follows (first row = right side):
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until 1 stitch remains, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until sleeve measures 14 cm = 5 1/2". Work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When sleeve measures 16-15-15-15-15-15 cm = 6 1/4"-6"-6"-6"-6"-6", increase 1 stitch in each side – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this approx. every 9-9-6½-6½-6-4½ cm = 3 1/2"-3 1/2"-2 1/2"-2 1/2"-2 3/8"-1 5/8" 4-4-5-5-5-6 times in total = 49-52-54-54-57-59 stitches. Continue to work until sleeve measures 47-46-45-43-41-40 cm = 18 1/2"-18"-17 3/4"-17"-16 1/8"-15 3/4". Now insert a marker in each side of sleeve. Use the marker later when fastening the sleeve to body. Work as follows in the different sizes:

SIZE S, M AND L:
Work until sleeve measures 50-50-50 cm = 19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 3/4" in total. Bind off.

SIZE XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Work until sleeve measures 48-47-46 cm = 19"-18 1/2"-18". Now bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row 1-2-2 times in total in each side of sleeve = 50-49-51 stitches. Bind off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 49-49-48 cm = 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19".

ALL SIZES:
Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches inside bind-off edge.
Sew sleeve cap to armhole inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitches. Then sew top part of sleeve to bottom of armhole - see chart.
Seam under sleeves and then down the side seam until vent inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 21 cm = 8 1/4" vent in each side).

POCKETS:
Cast on 21 stitches on circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 with 1 strand in each quality (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until 2 stitches remain, work first stitch in A.1 so that the pattern is the same in each side, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until pocket measures 14 cm = 5 1/2". Bind off.
Knit another pocket the same way.
Place a pocket on each front piece. Place the pocket with top edge of pocket on a line with where stitches were bind off for armhole and approx. 8 to 12 cm = 3 1/8" to 4 3/4" from edge stitch on band - fasten the pockets with needles and try the garment on before fastening. Sew with neat little stitches along the side and bottom edge of pocket.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from right side around neck follows:
Skip the 7 stitches on band that were bind off, pick up 36-36-38-38-40-45 stitches around the neck on circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and 1 strand DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands) until the 7 stitches bind off on band.
Knit 1 row from wrong side while increasing 12-12-13-13-13-15 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 48-48-51-51-53-60 stitches.
Knit 1 row from right side, purl 1 row from wrong side, purl 1 row from right side (= folding edge), purl 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side.
Bind off. Fold the neck edge double towards the wrong side and fasten with neat stitches.

COLLAR:
Begin from right side with circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands), and pick up 1 stitch in every purl stitch where neck edge was folded = 48-48-51-51-53-60 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Then work with 2 strands DROPS Alpaca Bouclé + 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 4 strands).
Knit 1 row and decrease at the same time 8-8-9-9-9-10 stitches evenly = 40-40-42-42-44-50 stitches – this becomes right side on collar and this side will face outwards when collar is done and folded down.
Insert 1 marker thread 10-10-11-11-11-13 stitches in from each side (= 20-20-20-20-22-24 stitches between the 2 marker threads) Move marker threads upwards when working.
Continue as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit until 2 stitches remain, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (on next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes).
Continue back and forth until 4 increases have been done in each side.
Now continue the same way with increase in each side 3 more times (= 7 times in total in each side), AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 stitch on each side of the 2 marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every other row 2 times in total.
When all increases are done there are 62-62-64-64-66-72 stitches on row. Work until collar measures 12 cm = 4 3/4" in total. Bind off. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.
Now crochet a finishing edge to stiffen the collar. Crochet along bind-off edge on collar and from right side as follows - work with 1 strand of each quality on hook size 8 MM = US 11:
Fasten strand in edge stitch on bind-off edge. Work 1 double crochet in every stitch along the bind-off edge. Cut and fasten the yarn.
Shaping: Make the collar wet and carefully press the water out. Shape the collar so that bind-off edge and double crochet row lays flat and does not roll inwards. Leave to dry. This is done every time it is washed.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = Applies size S, M and L: Sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B.
symbols = Applies size XL, XXL and XXXL: Sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B.
diagram
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 228-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Bärbel Bogel wrote:

Wann wird bei den einzelnen Strickteilen (Vorder-, Rückenteil, Ärmel) die Nadel von 6 auf 8 gewechselt? Der Wechsel wird nur beim Kragen erwähnt.

08.10.2022 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bogel, Nadel 8 wird für den Kragen benutzt - die ganze Jacke wird sonst mit Nadel 6 gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.10.2022 kl. 08:30

country flag Bärbel Bogel wrote:

Mit dem Stricken selbst habe ich keine Probleme, da ich schon viele Jahre dabei bin. Die Übersetzung der einzelne Schritte ist jedoch sehr irritierend. Sehr hilfreich wäre es, wenn die einzelnen Strickreihen in den Muster nummeriert wären und sich diese Nummerierung im Text wiederfinden würde.

07.10.2022 - 15:47

country flag Sadazur wrote:

Je ne comprends pas le point fantaisie avec le diagramme : Rang 1 : toutes les mailles à l'endroit Rang 2 : 1 maille endroit 2 mailles envers Rang 3 : toutes les mailles à l'endroit Rang 4 : rang 1 Est ce exact ? Merci pour votre aide

12.01.2022 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sadazur, les lignes blanches sont des mailles tricotées en jersey (à l'endroit sur l'endroit, à l'envers sur l'envers), celles avec case blanche/une croix se tricotent au point mousse (à l'endroit sur l'endroit et sur l'envers); autrement dit, A.1 par ex se tricote ainsi sur l'endroit: 3 m end, sur l'envers (on lit de gauche à droite): 2 m end, 1 m env . Bon tricot!

13.01.2022 kl. 08:38

country flag Saba Hatem wrote:

Very beautiful, wowwww

24.08.2021 - 16:05

country flag Birgitta Persson wrote:

En populär modell som jag gillar bra höst och vårjacka

05.08.2021 - 16:55

country flag Jannicke Mathisen wrote:

Navn: Trondheimsjakke

04.08.2021 - 21:33

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