DROPS / 220 / 29

Faraway Dreams by DROPS Design

Knitted top in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted with leaf pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

  • Faraway Dreams / DROPS 220-29 - Knitted top in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted with leaf pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • Faraway Dreams / DROPS 220-29 - Knitted top in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted with leaf pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • Faraway Dreams / DROPS 220-29 - Knitted top in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted with leaf pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • Faraway Dreams / DROPS 220-29 - Knitted top in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted with leaf pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern no R-782
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-94-104-116-126-136 cm = 33"-37"-41"-45 3/4"-49 1/2"-53 1/2"
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-350-400-450-450-500 g color 81, clay

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes and neck):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease at beginning of row as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 4 stitches in stockinette stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).

Decrease at end of row as follows:
Work until 7 stitches remain on needle, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 4, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Body is worked in the round on circular needle up to armholes. Then divide the piece into front and back piece and work each part back and forth separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/ short circular needle up to sleeve cap, then work sleeve cap back and forth. Finish working the neck edge in the round on circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 176-198-220-242-264-286 stitches on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 with Muskat. Knit 1 round. Then work pattern A.1 in the round on round (= 8-9-10-11-12-13 repetitions of 22 stitches). When the first 6 rounds have been worked, switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and continue in the round with pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 has been worked, continue in the round with stockinette stitch. When piece measures 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm = 10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2", work next round as follows:
Work the first 32-35-42-35-52-45 stitches, bind off the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches for armhole, work the next 82-93-102-113-122-133 stitches and slip stitches on a stitch holder (= front piece), bind off the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches for armhole, work the last 50-58-60-78-70-88 stitches (= back piece). Cut the yarn.

BACK PIECE:
= 82-93-102-113-122-133 stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. On first row from right side begin decrease for armholes - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th-4th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd row 2-7-10-15-18-22 times in total = 78-79-82-83-86-89 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm = 17"-17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21". On next row bind off the middle 34-35-36-37-38-39 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck, bind off 1 stitch = 21-21-22-22-23-24 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22". Bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 82-93-102-113-122-133 stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. On first row from right side begin decrease for armholes - remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th-4th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd row 2-7-10-15-18-22 times in total = 78-79-82-83-86-89 stitches.
When piece measures 38-40-42-43-45-47 cm = 15"-15 3/4"-16 1/2"-17"-17 3/4"-18 1/2", slip the middle 24-25-26-27-28-29 stitches on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease stitches for neck - remember DECREASE TIP. Bind off like this every 4th row 6 times in total = 21-21-22-22-23-24 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22". Bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 72-75-78-84-87-93 stitches on a short circular needle/double pointed needles 3 MM = US 2.5 with Muskat. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1/purl 2) in the round for 2 cm = 3/4". Knit 1 round while increasing 0-1-2-2-3-3 stitches evenly = 72-76-80-86-90-96 stitches. Switch to short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6. Work stockinette stitch in the round for 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm = 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8". On next round bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches mid under sleeve. Then continue back and forth in stockinette stitch and bind off for sleeve cap at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 4-3-2-2-1-1 time, 1 stitch 1-6-9-11-16-19 times, 2 stitches 4-3-3-3-2-1 time and 4 stitches 1 time = 24-26-26-28-28-32 stitches. Bind off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 11-13-15-17-19-21 cm = 4 3/8"-5 1/8"-6"-6 3/4"-7 1/2"-8 1/4".
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams together. Sew sleeves in body inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside bind-off edge on sleeves.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 90 to 105 stitches from right side (including stitches on stitch holders) on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 with Muskat. Number of stitches must be divisible by 3.
Purl 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1/purl 2) in the round for 2 cm = 3/4". Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 14.06.2021
Correction in diagram A.1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = work 3 stitches in stitch as follows: Knit stitch but wait to slip stitch knitted onto right needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit stitch 1 more time = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased)
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = knit 3, pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the last 2 stitches
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = at the beginning of this round; purl 1 stitch before working from the 2nd symbol in the diagram. At the end of the round purl the last stitch on the round together with the 1st stitch on the next round. Start the next round at the 2nd symbol in diagram.
symbols = at the beginning of this round; knit 1 stitch before working from the 2nd symbol in diagram. When there is 1 stitch left on round work as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit the 1st stitch on the next round, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. Start the next round at the 2nd symbol in diagram.
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 220-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Ellis 23.07.2021 - 09:36:

Kunt u nummers bij toeren/naalden zetten? nu moet ik het printen om dat zelf te doen. Tip: het basis patroon van de kanten boord is 2x3 averecht - 1 recht -1x2averecht- 1 recht. u begint de naald na 1av van de 3. ik heb mijn steekmarkeerder 2 steken naar links [eerder] gezet, begin dus nld 7 met 1av - 2av samenbreien etc, eindig de nld met 2av - 1r. dit is (voor mij) makkelijker onthouden, verder/ hoger in het patroon zit dat telpatroon al in je herinnering.

user icon DROPS Design 19.08.2021 kl. 14:18:

Dag Ellis,

Hartelijk dank voor je tips! Ik zal ze doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling om mee te nemen.

country flag Jose 26.06.2021 - 05:06:

Muy interesante

country flag Cinde Gorbandt 22.06.2021 - 00:59:

I am struggling to figure the decreases…in the back you start with 133 stitches, you cast two off every 4,4,4,2,2,2 rows…that is 6 rows of casting of two stitches for a total of 12…how does that get to 89 stitches?

user icon DROPS Design 22.06.2021 kl. 02:09:

Dear Cinde, from the 133 stitch starting point I suppose you are doing the largest size, For that you should decrease 1 stitch and the beginning and the end of the row (2 stitches decreased in these rows) every other row, 22 times. 22 X 2 = 44, and 133-44 = 89. Happy Stitching!

country flag Elisa 13.06.2021 - 17:17:

Buongiorno Vorrei segnalare un ERRORE nella 42a riga dello schema: i gettati sono tra una maglia e non tra 3 maglie! Sono impazzita prima di capire dove era l’errore.... no so se se ne e’ accorta qualcun’altra di voi....SALUTI

user icon DROPS Design 14.06.2021 kl. 22:19:

Buonasera Elisa, il diagramma è stato corretto oggi, provi a vedere se adesso le risulta corretto. Buon lavoro!

country flag Nathalie 07.06.2021 - 17:46:

Hallo, in der Chart stimmt die Reihe 41/42 nicht, oder? Das sollte heißen - Reihe 41: 1 Umschlag, 1 M rechts abheben, 2 M rechts zusammen, die abgehobene Masche über die 2 zusammengestrickten ziehen, 1 Umschlag. Reihe 42 dann alle Maschen rechts stricken.

user icon DROPS Design 08.06.2021 kl. 08:29:

Liebe Nathalie, oh ja stimmt sicher, unser Design Team wird das Diagram mal korrigieren, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Tamsin Growden 04.06.2021 - 17:29:

Mistake on the chart. Row 42 shows the yarn overs which should be on row 41 on either side of slip 1, k2 together pass slipped st over. Took me ages to work out what was wrong. Also had to undo as I was a stitch too far to the left after the starred row. Whilst I think the instructions here are correct it would be good to have a note to check that the pattern lines up correctly with the pattern below!

country flag Maria Teresa Nogueira 23.05.2021 - 11:16:

Não estou a perceber o início da volta 7

user icon DROPS Design 24.05.2021 kl. 09:44:

Bom dia, No princípio desta volta, tricota-se uma malha liga (a seguir à malha que corresponde ao segundo quadrado do diagrama) e, depois, só no fim da volta, se faz uma diminuição para criar o efeito do ponto fantasia. Depois, na volta seguinte (8), começa-se pelo segundo quadrado do diagrama. Ver a legenda correspondente à estrela da volta 7 abaixo: * no princípio desta carreira, tricotar 1 malha liga depois do 2.º símbolo do diagrama. no fim desta carreira, tricotar juntamente em liga a última malha da carreira e a primeira malha da carreira seguinte. Começar a carreira seguinte pelo 2.º símbolo do diagrama Bons tricôs!

country flag Netty Hoefakker 04.05.2021 - 12:08:

Wanneer komt hier het patroon van? Ik heb het garen al gekocht.

user icon DROPS Design 05.05.2021 kl. 13:56:

Dag Netty,

Naar verwachting komt hij in de loop van volgende week online. Houd de website in de gaten. Veel breiplezier alvast!

country flag Shaling Myer 22.04.2021 - 20:36:

Love this one

country flag Vedrana 20.04.2021 - 15:54:

Kollar varje dag när ni kommer posta beskrivning. Har köpt garn och väntar att börja sticka.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 220-29

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.