Little Miss Daisy by DROPS Design

Knitted dress for babies and children in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked top down with raglan and lace pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.

  • Little Miss Daisy / DROPS Baby & Children 38-2 - Knitted dress for babies and children in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked top down with raglan and lace pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.
  • Little Miss Daisy / DROPS Baby & Children 38-2 - Knitted dress for babies and children in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked top down with raglan and lace pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.
  • Little Miss Daisy / DROPS Baby & Children 38-2 - Knitted dress for babies and children in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked top down with raglan and lace pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.
  • Little Miss Daisy / DROPS Baby & Children 38-2 - Knitted dress for babies and children in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked top down with raglan and lace pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.
DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-004-by
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Equivalent to child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Equivalent to child’s height in feet:
1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 46-50-52-56 (64-70) cm = 18"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-22" (25 1/4"-27 1/2")
Full length: 37-39-41-46 (51-53) cm = 14 1/2"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-18" (20"-21")
All measurements in charts are in cm.



MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-200-250 (250-300) g color 05, powder pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for garter stitch edges and lace border.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM = US D/3: For picot-edges.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 3 items in all sizes.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

RAGLAN:
All increases are on rows from the right side.
Increase on each side of the stitch with the marker-thread as follows: Start just before the marker-thread stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= marker-thread stitch), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increase). On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = knit together the third and fourth stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
0/1: 2, 5 and 8 cm = 3/4", 2" and 3 1/8".
1/3: 2, 5 and 8 cm = 3/4", 2" and 3 1/8".
6/9: 2, 5 and 8 cm = 3/4", 2" and 3 1/8".
12/18: 2, 6 and 10 cm = 3/4", 2 3/8" and 4".
2: 2, 6 and 10 cm = 3/4", 2 3/8" and 4".
3/4: 2, 6 and 10 cm = 3/4", 2 3/8" and 4".

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. You work back and forth, from mid-back, until the bands are finished, then the piece is completed in the round.

NECK:
Cast on 62-66-70-74 (78-84) stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Cotton Merino.
Work 2 RIDGES back and forth – read description above.
Now insert 4 marker threads (starting mid-back – NOTE: WITHOUT working the stitches) as follows:
Skip the first 11-12-12-13 (13-14) stitches (= right back piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, skip 9-9-11-11 (13-14) stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, skip 18-20-20-22 (22-24) stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, skip 9-9-11-11 (13-14) stitches (= sleeve) and insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch; there are 11-12-12-13 (13-14) stitches left after the last marker thread (left back piece).

YOKE:
READ THE WHOLE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and continue with stockinette stitch, back and forth, with the 3 outermost stitches on each side in garter stitch (= bands).
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side, increase to RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads – read description above (= 8 stitches increased).
Increase like this on every row from the right side a total of 11-13-13-14 (16-17) times = 150-170-174-186 (206-220) stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 3 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 10-11-11-12 (13-14) cm = 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" (5 1/8"-5 1/2").
On the next row from the right side, divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work 23-26-26-28 (32-34) stitches as before (= half back piece), place the next 32-36-38-40 (42-44) stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8 (8-8) new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), work the next 40-46-46-50 (58-64) stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 32-36-38-40 (42-44) stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8 (8-8) new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), work the remaining 23-26-26-28 (32-34) stitches as before (= half back piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 98-110-114-122 (138-148) stitches.
Insert 1 marker – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Start mid-back and lay the 3 stitches on the left band under the 3 stitches on the right band (i.e. buttonhole-band is on top). Knit 1 round over all stitches and AT THE SAME TIME knit the band stitches together 2 and 2 = 95-107-111-119 (135-145) stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch in the round for 1-2-2-3 (3-3) cm = 3/8"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"). On the next round adjust the number of stitches to 96-108-112-120 (136-144) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work A.1 in the round.
When A.1 has been completed, change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6.
Knit 1 round and increase 13-13-21-25 (21-25) stitches evenly spaced = 109-121-133-145 (157-169) stitches.
Continue in the round as follows:
Work A.2a (= 2 stitches), A.2b (= 12 stitches) over 96-108-120-132 (144-156) stitches (= a total of 8-9-10-11 (12-13) times) and finish with A.2c (= 11 stitches).
Continue this pattern.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height you have increased 2 stitches in each repeat of the pattern = 127-141-155-169 (183-197) stitches.
Continue the pattern but with A.3 over A.2 as follows:
Work A.3a (= 2 stitches), A.3b (= 14 stitches) over 112-126-140-154 (168-182) stitches (= a total of 8-9-10-11 (12-13) times) and finish with A.3c (= 13 stitches).
Continue this pattern.
When A.3 has been completed 1-1-1-1 (2-2) times in height (or to desired length), work A.4 over A.3 as follows:
A.4a (= 1 stitch), A.4b (= 14 stitches) over 112-126-140-154 (168-182) stitches (= a total of 8-9-10-11 (12-13) times) and finish with A.4c (= 14 stitches).
After A.4 there are 145-161-177-193 (209-225) stitches on the needle.
Now work A.5 as follows:
A.5a (= 1 stitch), A.5b (= 16 stitches) over 128-144-160-176 (192-208) stitches (= a total of 8-9-10-11 (12-13) times) and finish with A.5c (= 16 stitches).
When you have worked 3-3-4-7 (3-4) cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-2 3/4" (1 1/8"-1 1/2") of A.5, work 4 rounds of stockinette stitch over all stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work A.1 over all stitches (NOTE: On round 5 in A.1 knit the last stitch on the round).
Bind off when A.1 has been worked 1 time in height – read BINDING-OFF TIP!
The dress measures approx. 37-39-41-46 (51-53) cm = 14 1/2"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-18" (20"-21") from the shoulder down.

SHORT SLEEVE:
Place the 32-36-38-40 (42-44) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece onto double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8 (8-8) stitches cast on under the sleeve = 38-42-46-48 (50-52) stitches
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= beginning of the round) – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 1½ cm = 1/2", decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4" a total of 2 times = 34-38-42-44 (46-48) stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1 1/2". Change to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work 2 ridges, before binding off with knit.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

PICOT-EDGE:
Work a picot-edge around both sleeves using crochet hook size 3 MM = US D/3 as follows: 1 single crochet in the first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked, skip 2 stitches on the sleeve, 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-*, and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet at the beginning of the round.
Work similar edging on the neck, in the transition between the ridges and the stockinette stitch on the yoke – NOTE: Work the edge top down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitches over the knitted stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby & Children 38-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Heidrun 08.06.2021 - 09:49:

In der Anleitung muss im Diagramm A.2a und später A.3a jeweils am Rundenbeginn zwei Maschen rechts zusammen gestrickt wo nehme ich im Muster die zweite Masche zu damit ich in der dritten Runde wieder zwei Maschen rechts zusammen Stricken kann ?

user icon DROPS Design 08.06.2021 kl. 11:35:

Liebe Heidrun, wenn man A.2a /A.3a am Anfang der Runde strickt, wird man die 2 ersten Maschen der Runde zusammen rechts stricken, dann A.2b (= 12 M)/A.3b (= 14M) wiederholen und Runde mit A.2c/A.3c enden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Sigurveig Hreinsdóttir 04.06.2021 - 18:03:

Finnst munstrið ekki stemma við lykkjufjölda, það fækkar um 6 lykkjur í hverjum hring og það gengur ekki upp.

country flag Eline Schön 18.05.2021 - 16:05:

Hej! Jag stickar just nu DROPS Baby 38-2 och har stött på problem. Jag stickar just nu fram och bakstycke för strlk 80/86 och har kommit till mönster A2.. då har jag 145 maskor på min rundsticka och skall sticka A2a och A2b över 132 maskor totalt 11 gånger? Vad innebär detta? Vad gör jag med de resterande 13 maskorna och ska jag inte göra A2c förens jag gjort 11 vändor av A2a & A2b. Är helt snurrig...

user icon DROPS Design 19.05.2021 kl. 11:05:

Hei Eline. Du har 145 masker, så strikker du A.2a 1 gang (= 2 masker), deretter strikker du A.2b 11 ganger (= 132 masker). Du har nå 11 masker igjen som du strikker A.2c over (2 + 132 +11 = 145 masker). mvh DROPS design

country flag Nicole 14.04.2021 - 00:35:

Muss ich die Umschläge auch rechts stricken? Ich finde, dass ergibt riesengroße Löcher , zumindest bei mir

user icon DROPS Design 14.04.2021 kl. 07:35:

Liebe Nicole, die Raglanzunahmen werden bei den Rückreihen links verschränkt gestrickt, um Löcher zu vermeiden; bei dem Lochmuster (Diagrammen) werden sie rechts gestrickt, damit Löcher entstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Vigdis Johansen 13.04.2021 - 09:42:

Har dere drops katalog 38 baby kan jeg få kjøpe en

country flag Vigdis Johansen 12.04.2021 - 16:42:

Finnes katalog 38 baby

user icon DROPS Design 13.04.2021 kl. 07:30:

Hej Vigdis. DROPS Baby & Children 38 innehåller både barn och baby oppskrifter. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Sonja Wietasch 11.04.2021 - 20:20:

Little Miss Daisy ist das Muster Runden übergreifend da die Maschenzahl mit Muster nicht übereinstimmt

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2021 kl. 11:04:

Liebe Frau Wietasch, die Diagramme A.2-A.3-A.4 werden alle so in Runden gestrickt: mi a Runden anfangen, b wiederholen und Runden mt c enden - siehe schriftliche Erklärung für jede Größe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Lidia Postiglione 07.04.2021 - 11:41:

Io non so lavorare con i ferri circolari perchè non mettete anche la spiegazione con i ferri normali e dal basso in alto?Grazie Lidia Postiglione

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 14:11:

Buongiorno Lidia, ogni modello presenta una struttura e una lavorazione particolare e non ci è possibile riadattare le spiegazioni alle singole richieste. Sul nostro sito però può trovare altri modelli lavorati in piano o con costruzioni dal basso verso l'alto. Buon lavoro!

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