DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Full Moon Festival Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with raglan, English rib and V-neck. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 223-16
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-321
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-102-112-122-132-142 cm = 36¼"-40"-44"-48"-52"-55¾"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-400-450-450-500 g color 02, wheat

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32" for English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 5-5-5-5-6-6 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 39 stitches), minus 1 edge stitch on each side and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 3.7. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch, do not increase on the edge stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 2nd and 3rd and each 3rd and 4th stitch.
ENGLISH RIB (back and forth – for the yoke and body):
ROW 1 (right side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and finish with 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3 (right side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there is 1 yarn over and 2 stitches left, knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 onwards.

ENGLISH RIB (in the round – for the sleeves):
ROUND 1: * Purl together the yarn over and slipped stitch, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* to end of round.
ROUND 2: *. Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch *, work from *-* to end of round
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 onwards.

RAGLAN:
Increase 4 stitches in each marker-stitch (= 16 stitches increased on the round).
All increases are worked on a row from the right side (i.e. row 3 in the English rib).
Increase as follows in the marker-stitch:
Knit together the yarn over and knitted stitch, but do not slip the stitch from the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle, knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together again, move the marker to this stitch (= mid-stitch), make 1 yarn over the right needle, knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together again (= 3 stitches and 2 yarn overs), slip the stitch and yarn over off the left needle.
On the next row work the new stitches in English rib, but note that on this row after the increases, the knitted stitches in the increases are knitted without yarn overs because the yarn overs have not been made.
The marker sits in the middle of the increased stitches (a knitted stitch).

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 2 stitches on round 2 in the English rib as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch (yarn overs not counted), slip the next stitch + yarn over as if to knit together, knit the next 2 stitches + yarn over together and pass the slipped stitch + yarn-over over these knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased), move the marker to the next knitted stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 41-42-42-44-44-45 stitches with circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and Air. Knit 1 row where you increase 8-7-11-9-9-12 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 49-49-53-53-53-57 stitches. Insert a marker after 25-25-27-27-27-29 stitches; the yoke is measured from this marker!

Work ENGLISH RIB – read description above. When row 3 has been completed, insert markers in all the transitions between body and sleeves as follows:
Marker 1: Skip the first stitch (= edge stitch) and insert the marker in the next stitch.
Marker 2: Skip the next 9 stitches, insert the marker in the next stitch.
Marker 3: Skip the next 25-25-29-29-29-33 stitches, insert the marker in the next stitch.
Marker 4: Skip the next 9 stitches, insert the marker in the next stitch.
There is 1 stitch left after the last marker.
Continue back and forth with English rib, AT THE SAME TIME increase to raglan and V-neck as described below:

RAGLAN:
On the next row from the right side (= row 3 in the pattern) start to increase to RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every 8th row a total of 6-7-8-9-10-11 times = 96-112-128-144-160-176 stitches increased.

V-HALS:
When the third increase to raglan is about to be worked, start to increase for the V-neck. Increase 2 stitches in the 4th stitch from the edge on each side (a knitted stitch in the English rib) as follows:
Knit together the yarn over and knitted stitch, but do not slip them from the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle, knit together the yarn over and knitted stitch again (= 2 stitches + 1 yarn over), slip the stitch and yarn over from the left needle. Increase like this every 8th row a total of 6-7-7-8-8-8 times (= 12-14-14-16-16-16 stitches increased for the V-neck on each side).

When all the increases to raglan and the V-neck are finished, there are 169-189-209-229-245-265 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 21-21-23-24-26-28 cm = 8¼"-8¼"-9"-9½"-10¼"-11" from the marker.
Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves, on the next row from the wrong side, as follows:
Work the first 26-30-32-36-38-40 stitches (= front piece), place the next 33-37-41-45-49-53 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 5-5-5-5-7-7 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the next 51-55-63-67-71-79 stitches (= back piece), place the next 33-37-41-45-49-53 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 5-5-5-5-7-7 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 26-30-32-36-38-40 stitches.
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 113-125-137-149-161-173 stitches.
Continue back and forth with English rib.
When the piece measures 17-19-19-20-20-20 cm = 6¾"-7½"-7½"-8"-8"-8" from the division – adjust so the next row is from the right side, there is 12 cm = 4¾" to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length.
Now work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 2 stitches in English rib as before, A.1 over the next 108-120-132-144-156-168 stitches (= 18-20-22-24-26-28 repeats of 6 stitches), finish with the last stitch of English rib and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
When A.1 has been completed in height the piece measures 26-28-28-29-29-29 cm = 10¼"-11"-11"-11⅜"-11⅜"-11⅜" from the division.
On the next row from the right side, increase stitches in the sides and insert 4 markers (which will be used when working rib) as follows:
Front piece: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch, purl 1 *, work from *-* over the next 14-16-18-20-22-22 stitches. Insert a marker here.
Side of body: * Knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch, make 1 yarn over, purl 1*, work from *-* over the next 26-28-30-34-36-40 stitches (= 13-14-15-17-18-20 increased stitches), insert a marker here.
Back piece: * Knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch, purl 1 *, work from *-* over the next 30-34-38-38-42-46 stitches. Insert a marker here.
Side of body: * Knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch, make 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, work from *-* over the next 26-28-30-34-36-40 stitches (= 13-14-15-17-18-20 increased stitches), insert a marker here.
Front piece: * Knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch, purl 1 *, work from *-* over the next 15-17-19-21-23-23 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
There are 139-153-167-183-197-213 stitches on the needle.

Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib from the wrong side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (purl 1, knit 1) as far as the first marker, (purl 1, knit 2 – yarn overs knitted twisted to avoid holes) as far as the next marker, (purl 1, knit 1) as far as the next marker, (purl 1, knit 2 – yarn overs knitted twisted to avoid holes) as far as the next marker, (purl 1, knit 1) until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth, with knit over knit and purl over purl and with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the rib measures 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP.
The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 33-37-41-45-49-53 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 MM = US 10 and cast on 5-5-5-5-7-7 new stitches on the needle (= mid under sleeve) = 38-42-46-50-56-60 stitches.
Work ENGLISH RIB in the round – read explanation above (make sure to start at the correct round in pattern), round now starts with the 1st of the 5-5-5-5-7-7 new stitches that were cast on mid under sleeve.
Sizes XS, S, M and L: go to ALL SIZES below.
Sizes XL and XXL work as follows:
Insert a marker in the middle stitch under the sleeve. Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing mid under the sleeve.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1½" from the division, decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 8th round a total of 2-2 times = 52-56 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue working until the sleeve measures 41-42-41-40-39-38 cm = 16⅛"-16½"-16⅛"-15¾"-15¼"-15" from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). There is 4 cm = 1½" to finished length, try the jacket on and work to desired length.
The next round is worked as follows: * Knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch, purl 1 *, work from *-* to the end of the round. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit 1 round where you decrease 0-2-4-8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 38-40-42-42-44-46 stitches. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm = 1½".
Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.
The sleeve measures approx. 45-46-45-44-43-42 cm = 17¾"-18"-17¾"-17¼"-17"-16½" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

BANDS:
Insert 1 marker at the back of the neck; this is used when working out half the stitches on the band/neck. The bands are knitted up inside the 1 edge stitch on the front pieces and in the first row around the neck.

Right band:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Air. Knit up 119 to 149 stitches along the front piece as far as the marker at the back of the neck (number of stitches must be divisible by 2 + 1). It is important the band is not loose, with too many stitches, but it should not be tight either.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 1, (knit 1/purl 1) until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 1 cm = ⅜". Now work 5-5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes. The bottom buttonhole should be 2 cm = ¾" from the bottom edge and the top buttonhole where the V-neck begins. The other 3-3-3-3-4-4 buttonholes are worked evenly between, with approx. 8 cm = 3⅛" between each one.
1 buttonhole = knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Continue the rib until it measures 3 cm = 1⅛". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

Left band:
Start mid-back of the neck with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Air. Knit up the same number of stitches as on the right band (number of stitches must be divisible by 2 + 1).
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side. 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 1, purl 1) until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛" and bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl
symbols = knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch
symbols = decrease 2 stitches as follows: Knit together the next 3 stitches (+ their respective yarn overs = 2 stitches decreased).
symbols = increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over: Knit together the yarn over and knitted stitch, but do not slip them from the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle, knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together again, slip the stitch and yarn over off the left needle (= 2 stitches increased). Then work the new stitches in English rib, but note that on this first row after the increases, the knitted stitches in the increases are knitted without yarn overs, because the yarn overs have not been made.
symbols = start on this row in the pattern
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (45)

country flag Irene Suihko wrote:

Hei, jätin kuvion eli mallineuleen tekemättä helmaan ja tein vain pelkkää patenttia. Vaikuttaako se jotenkin joustinneuleosion aloittamiseen? Yt. Irene

07.04.2024 - 14:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, tämä ei vaikuta joustinneuleen aloittamiseen. Tee kuitenkin sivulisäykset ohjeen mukaisesti ennen kuin aloitat joustinneuleen.

08.04.2024 - 18:02

country flag Mia wrote:

Hei, når jeg strikker helpatent øker jeg med mange masker, hvordan skal jeg unngå det?

23.03.2024 - 08:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mia, husker du at strikket omslaget sammen med næste maske?

03.04.2024 - 14:19

country flag ÁNGELA GARCÍA ALARCÓN wrote:

Pueden explicar con exactitud como se teje la zona de aumentos por el revés?. Gracias

12.03.2024 - 20:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ángela, puedes ver el siguiente vídeo sobre cómo trabajar este aumento: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=1332&lang=es

17.03.2024 - 21:09

country flag Lene Køhler wrote:

Hej. Jeg har desværre problemer med at læse jeres opskrift. Ved sætning af mærke 1+2+3+4 i starten af arbejdet står der, at der er 1 maske tilbage på pinden efter sidste mærke. Dette er ikke rigtigt. Jeg strikker en str. L. Endvidere fremgår det ikke tydeligt ( slet ikke), hvor raglanudtagningerne til ryggen skal være. Der er kun oplyst, hvor der skal være udtagninger til raglan på forstykket efter/ ved maske 9 ( går jeg ud fra). Jeg hører gerne fra Dem. Mvh Lene

06.03.2024 - 13:59

country flag Noémie wrote:

Hei Drops Design, Jeg strikker full moon festival cardigan i minste størrelse. Derfor startet jeg med å legge opp 41 masker, dermed økte jeg jevnt fordelt over pinnen med 8 masker og har da 49 masker. Når jeg da begynner på helpatent 1. pinne ender jeg opp med 72 masker. Deretter fortsetter jeg med 2. og 3. pinne og ender fortsatt opp med 72 masker. Når jeg da skal sette markør på 9 + 25 + 9 + 2 + 4 har jeg 72-49=23 masker igjen. Hva gjør jeg feil?

18.02.2024 - 10:48

country flag Maria Venetsanou wrote:

Hello team i start it with 41 sts plus 8 sts = 49 1 marker 1 sts 2 marker 9sts 3marker 25 sts 4 marker 9 sts 1 sts edge total 45 sts i have 4 sts more what i make wrong ? can you help me? total

13.01.2024 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria, at the start of the yoke, on row 3 of the English rib, you insert the markers inside stitches. So you have: edge stitch (=1), stitch with marker (= 1), 9 stitches, stitch with marker (= 1), 25 stitches, stitch with marker (= 1), 9 stitches, stitch with marker (= 1), edge stitch. So you have: 1+1+9+1+25+1+9+1+1 = 49 stitches. Happy knitting!

14.01.2024 - 13:33

country flag Maria Venetsanou wrote:

Hello team I start it .I put 41st and added 8 =49 For the markers 1 marker 1st 2 marker 9st 3marker 25 st 4 marker9 st Remain 1 std Total 45 sts remain 4 sts What i do wrong?

13.01.2024 - 00:46

country flag Nadya wrote:

Hello, Could you please explain why does one need to increase stitches in the sides before knitting the ribbing. Thank you.

10.12.2023 - 00:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nadya, ribbing tends to pull the knitting in, we do these increases to avoid that. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

10.12.2023 - 21:30

country flag Rita wrote:

Stemmer virkelig mønsteret nederst på bolen? Jeg har strikket prøvelapp etter å ha kommet feil ut på jakken, og får det likevel ikke til å stemme. Skal *strikk 1 rille - 2 masker helpatent - mønster - 1 maske helpatent - 1 rille* alltid strikkes fra rettsiden? Hva er det jeg ikke skjønner her?

31.10.2023 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Rita. Når arbeidet måler 17-19-19-20-20-20 cm fra delingen – avpass at neste pinne er en pinne fra retten, (det er kun neste pinne som skal være fra retten, ikke alltid fra retten). Så strikkes det mønster slik det er forklart i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

06.11.2023 - 09:42

country flag Sandra wrote:

Op de tekening met de maten zie je bij de mouw 21 cm(maat s) dit staat ook in het patroon vanaf de markering gemeten, maar waar komt nou die 4 cm vandaan die erboven staat?

29.09.2023 - 22:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sandra,

De 4 cm is vanaf de bovenkant van de schouder tot waar de raglanlijn begint (als je het kledingstuk plat neerlegt).

03.10.2023 - 06:34